rkkwan's quick trip to Beijing
 

I was in Beijing July 27 to August 1, as a member of the Hong Kong Scout Orchestra for a short performance and artistic exchange. It was only my 2nd time to the Chinese capital, the previous occasion being 23 years ago, in 1988. Here are some impression I have from this trip.

<b>Hot</b> - It was 38-40C each afternoon during this time. August is simply not a good time to visit Beijing, as there are few shades in many of the sites we visited - Temple of Heaven, Forbidden City & Bird's Nest. Plus, A/C is severely lacking in many restaurants that we dined at. As a matter of fact, 3 of our group of 97 suffered heat strokes at some point of the trip.

<b>Air Quality</b> - There was some rain during the 3rd and 4th day of our visit, and that helped. But for the first 2 days, I could barely see the building across Jianguomennai Avenue from my room at the Beijing International Hotel early in the morning. It was really as bad as advertised.

<b>Hugeness</b> - Everything is just huge in Beijing. That was my impression during my last visit in 1988, but this time it's even more so. Anyone who hasn't been to Beijing or not for a while really have to visit at least once. The vastness of the city and hugeness of its buildings and projects are simply unbelievable. Okay, perhaps other than Dubai. Its scale is way beyond London, Paris, Washington and New York.

Because of its scale, it's NOT a place I enjoy visiting. I love cities where you can wander on foot with narrow streets and lots of look at. Huge cities like Tokyo offer that. Beijing doesn't.

<b>PEK T3</b> - Basically same style and construction as HKG, since it's also by Norman Foster. Except 3 things: 1. straight lines in HKG become curves at PEK T3; 2. Multiple the size of HKG by about 1.5; 3. insufficient air-conditioning. Basically, just to get from curb side to the plane is a trip all by itself. Not user-friendly at all. Nice thing is that immigration has no lines at all both times.

<b>Bird's Nest</b> - Perhaps if you're a Chinese "patriot" or an Olympic fan, otherwise I have no idea why so many pay so much to visit an empty stadium with a few wealthy people trying out Segways. So not worth the walk and the heat. And BTW, from the vendors pandering souvenirs outside, I realize the stadium is perfectly shaped as a giant astray.

<b>Temple of Heaven and Forbidden City</b> - Little changed from 1988. Still crowded, but not overly so at both places.

<b>Traffic</b> - It is pretty bad. Add to the vastness of the city, it's like 45-60 minutes to go from one place to another. Basically, tourists should only plan for visiting one sites for each half-day. Hard and difficult to do 3 or more in a day.

<b>Beijing International Hotel</b> - My room at this so-called 5* hotel ended up being my favorite place in Beijing. Right now, I will say it's up to 3.5* star standard, similar to a Sheraton or Holiday Inn in the US, which is not bad. Everything works, nice bedding, A/C very cold, and good pressure and temperature from the shower. And instead of a phone call at 11pm offering "massage", they are much more civilized with "business cards" stuck through your door.

<b>Conclusion</b> - Glad I had this opportunity to visit Beijing for cheap. As that means I won't have to pay to visit for another 20+ years. It is a very impressive city for those who have never been, but it's definitely NOT my type of place to visit for leisure.

Thanks for a very candid TR of your impressions, the summer weather is brutal, thank goodness you didn't go to the Great Wall in the heat!

Thanks for the report. I first saw Beijing in 1997, and hardly recognized it in 2004. Sounds like the pollution and traffic have only gotten worse. Much worse.

Good to know that July in Beijing lives up to its reputation. We went to Beijing in September and had glorious weather. Walking through the parks and squares was delightful. I'd like to return, but not in summer.

Now I see why there are freq flier 'saver' tickets available from ORD to Beijing... Personally, I've never been there, but I think I might like Shanghai better... not sure why.

<b>Peking Duck</b> - Oh, forgot to mention... Did eat Peking Duck 3 times during my trip. All quite untraditional. First, one of our orchestra member's parent ordered a duck "to go" for us from Da Dong, a popular duck joint. Even though it was cold by the time we got to eat it, it was still very good!

Second time was at a "24-hour Peking Duck" place across the side street from Beijing International Hotel. It was okay, but the key is that we had it like 2am in the morning. Finally, it was during one of the group meals. Again, okay, but not too memorable.

What surprises me most are the thousands and thousands of skyscrapers for miles and miles (on outskirts of Beijing).

And people of all ages throng the parks for exercise very early in the morning even when the weather is bitter cold and strong gusts of winds keep people like me indoors!!!

One of my most memorable incidents is going to a large grocery store in Beijing on a Sunday morning. Little did I know that tons of families shop on weekend mornings and the store was literally packed like sardines.

Then the sales people yell at the top of their voices advertising prices of various products. In addition, everyone is rushing, pushing, shoving as if the world is ending.

This was just a typical Sunday grocery scene I was told later.
Now back in the US I love going grocery shopping at my local stores as they are peaceful and relatively quiet and the people are just so mannerly.

So, I would ask everyone to visit a grocery store in China and enjoy the experience as it is totally unforgettable.

I guess there's no rush for me to visit Beijing...

yk - As a Chinese, I think you should go to Beijing and take a look at the most important city in the world for this century.

It's been about 20 years since my last visit to Beijing, Your report confirms why I'm not rushing back.

I'm still considering a visit to Western China, though I think I should temper my expectations for such atrip.

Thanks for the report, rkkwan! I'm heading there in a month and I love big cities, but I'm wondering if there's such a thing as too big!

We will be going in October (the second week to avoid the Golden week).

I have scheduled only 1 major site every day : 1st day (Tiananmen Sq), 2nd Day (Temple of Heaven), 3rd Day (Great Wall), 4th Day (Forbidden City), 5th Day (Summer Palace/Fragrant Hill), 6th Day (Free).

The afternoons are free time for 7 members of our group - to Xidan, or Sanlitun, art district, Wangfujing etc.or do nothing.

From Rkkwan's post it looks like my planning is correct.

I will also be there second week of October for 3 full days/4 nights. We arrive Oct. 8 and leave Oct. 12.

I've planned 1 day to Great Wall at Mutianyu, 1/2 day for seeing Forbidden City and Beihai Park, 1/2 day wandering around one of the hutong neighborhoods. The third day I'm leaving open to do something that may pop up as being interesting once we get there. This will be my second visit to Beijing, last time in Oct. 2001. It was shortly after 9/11 so very few people were visiting China then.

You were there a short time only and only hit the major tourist spots. There are many areas with lots of trees and quiet streets to walk around. You just did not go there, not enough time. There is a lot to see in Beijing so that you can only do the essentials in 5 days.
I agree that the olympic installation is nothing special.
July is indeed a bad time to visit, so is August. The best months are April-May and September-October. Before of the heat in summer you get more smog. The city is flat but surrounded by mountains that trap the warm air. Lots of wind in the spring and fall will clear up the air.
I find that there is AC pretty much everywhere. Possibly you were eating in low end restaurants (except Da Dong!!).

This wasn't a tourist trip, and I was just pointing out a few observations on my short visit.

I don't disagree with your comments. Just saying it is an incomplete view due to the short time and where you went.