RHK's 2010 Thailand and Vietnam trip
#281
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Lcuy, gee, would you like some cheese go go along with that whine????? Not all of us travel the globe, collecting frequent flyer miles for the princely airfare of $$1100 and triple mileage, as you did in 2009, Missy!
Carol, when you meet up with Dogster, he may be the guy with the prune-y fingers. That's because I'm guessing he'll jump ship and be swimming for a bit. Add me to the list of those who're unable to picture The Dog aboard a ship for very long. But I guess we'll see...
BC
Carol, when you meet up with Dogster, he may be the guy with the prune-y fingers. That's because I'm guessing he'll jump ship and be swimming for a bit. Add me to the list of those who're unable to picture The Dog aboard a ship for very long. But I guess we'll see...
BC
#287
Thanks Pook! I was just feeling so neglected 
Actually, my daughter and I were in Bangkok two weeks ago, so Loy Krathong is definitely not in the cards this year. I do hope to meet you one of these days!
Hey, BC... It is NOT easy tracking down these flights, nor sitting on them for
so many hours!! Waaaa
Oh wait...that's the line I give my husband each time I head out to the airport.

Actually, my daughter and I were in Bangkok two weeks ago, so Loy Krathong is definitely not in the cards this year. I do hope to meet you one of these days!
Hey, BC... It is NOT easy tracking down these flights, nor sitting on them for
so many hours!! Waaaa

#288
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We very much enjoyed the gtg today with the two of you and Pook, Dang and Mony. I wish we were going to be here on Loy Krathong.
Enjoy the rest of your time in Bangkok. We expect a full report comparing the FIVE Bangkok hotels you are staying in this trip!
Enjoy the rest of your time in Bangkok. We expect a full report comparing the FIVE Bangkok hotels you are staying in this trip!
#289
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Like Kathie said we had great GTG. On the menu were some new dishes that I thought everyone would enjoy. Foie Gras infused dim sum, pork belly pyramid etc.. Bob got the prize - complimentary Peking Duck on his next visit as well as cash coupons!
#290
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all the goodies came with the check which pook oversaw... he passed the coupons on to me...
C&C is a restaurant which serves thai food... it is part of a population control group who use the profits for birth control education
C&C is a restaurant which serves thai food... it is part of a population control group who use the profits for birth control education
#291
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how could i fail to say that in addition to the things i listed above for our tour yesterday, we also went to the tiger temple.... tomorrow i expect to write all about our experiences and the new ones we had today.....
we have moved to chatrium suites for 3 nights.... it has a fantastic location downriver from the shangri-la hotel and upriver from the montien and marriott.
thus far we give the place a "D", or maybe a "C-" to be kind... more to follow....
i'll say it once more: TONG IS THE BEST!!
we have moved to chatrium suites for 3 nights.... it has a fantastic location downriver from the shangri-la hotel and upriver from the montien and marriott.
thus far we give the place a "D", or maybe a "C-" to be kind... more to follow....
i'll say it once more: TONG IS THE BEST!!
#295
Carol, her food was amazingly good. We had planned to go back a second time, but had a little problem with a taxi ride....More on that later.
Hope her lease problems get resolved, because she is a must see in Bangkok for my next trip!
Hope her lease problems get resolved, because she is a must see in Bangkok for my next trip!
#298
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Thursday
All up early…. We still had some fantastic raisin bread to toast and two kinds of jam and butter, plus tea, orange juice (thick and non-acidic), so breakfast was easy in the apartment…
We all did some internet (535B per day), which was expensive….
The morning’s activity was a rare weekday thai craft organization craft show at the jasmine center (corner of soi 23 and sukhumvit). www.thaicraft.org It started at 9:30…. These are held at least twice monthly, usually on Saturdays. They offer a variety of fair trade craft items from various workshops, mostly in the north… K always finds tons of goodies there: placemats, silver jewelry, greeting cards, baskets, pottery, clothing, fabulous silk scarves in a variety of designs, kids gifts, hand painted items and much more… check their on line schedule for shows…
This is a good source of reasonable high quality items and profits go directly to the producers, many of which are charity based programs…
Even though we had attended a show in October, K found a number of items to buy… P & K also found nice things… all bought modern designed silk scarves from one vendor who then placed them in nice silk covered presentation boxes--- about $12-15 each…
Greeting cards were handmade and cost about $.75 to $2.25.
From there we headed to the Jim Thompson House for lunch and a tour…. It took me about 5 or 6 tries to find a taxi willing to go there, or to understand what place I wanted to go to…
We were all starved by this point so we went right into the restaurant----ate inside in a/c, although you can eat outside… we love this restaurant for its food… a highlight was the pomello salad…. K had her usual pasta dish with bacon… lots of pics… the girls had fancy fruit drinks… we all had yummy desserts…
Following lunch we bought our tour tickets for the English tour of the house. We had some extra time so we visited the JT store there. We met up with Mary, from our cooking class, who was on her day tour with one of tong’s staff, which I had arranged for mary’s family…. They were very pleased thus far with their guide experience….
The house was very busy… Our tour began… our guide was good, but not fabulous… the tour takes 35 minutes. We noticed that they have reduced the rules and you are now allowed to roam a bit more freely in certain areas after the tour… also more pic taking is allowed from outside the house. Cost of tour 100 B….
As I have said so often, I consider this the # 2 or 3 tourist highlight in bangkok.
From JT we took a taxi back to the hotel, but not without a hitch… a co-ordinator/facilator, read crook, was waiting right outside JT house on the soi… If we were willing to stop at a “government shop”, we could have the taxi for 100 B, otherwise it would be 300 B to our hotel… I can play this game… so quickly we were in a taxi and on our way to this tourist rip-off shop about 5 blocks away… our plan was a 5-10 minute stop… the driver then gets 1 litre of gas for his taxi and a huge commission if you buy anything… we fooled them!! We did make one comparison: a channel set sapphire gold ring was about $1100. A similar ring at thai stone jewelry, with a much heavier 18k setting, was about $675. we got out of there in less than 10 min.
We rested in the hotel for an hour or so, then headed to river city shopping center, next to ROS… the taxi took over an hour. We checked in with js thai silk for progress on projects and fittings… things were coming along nicely….
We walked from there to Harmonique where we were meeting up with a friend of Pat’s and his partner. He is a Bostonian who moved to bkk right out of college and is now president of a PR firm here. The partner is about to open a pastry shop on ruam rudi rd.
We had a nice dinner with a real variety of dishes…
We took a taxi back to the Marriott on soi 24. Jack was due there between 9 and 10 for fittings…. He and 2 staff arrived about 9:30 PM… all garments are progressing…. Kathleen is amazed at how fast they can produce fabulous items…
Fell into bed exhausted and not looking forward to our 6AM wake up call….
We are really liking the Marriott serviced apartment… the suite is lovely and comfortable, there is a full kitchen, a nice eating table and a nice living area and work area, plus two huge en-suite bathrooms—one king and one with 2 double beds. Perfect for a family or two couples… Marriott sukhumvit park serviced apartment… 6900 B++
Friday
This was to prove to be the first of two back to back exhausting days with Tong (tourwithtong.com)…..
Our wake-up call came at 6AM for our 6:45 p/u…. Tong was in the lobby by 6:40 and we did introductions for P & K… Roger, tong’s fabulous and funny driver was waiting for us in tong’s huge grey van. We really love roger!!!
This day was slated as our out of town day and was to last 13+ hours…. To see some of the out of town places, you need to start early from bkk to avoid traffic and to get to places at the optimum time…
First stop is the railroad market…. This local market is about a 1 hour ride from bkk. You walk along the road bed of the tracks… foods of every description are displayed right up to the edge of the train tracks… many are on the ground, but also many are on carts on sliding tracks which can be pulled back a couple of feet when the train comes, which it does 8 times daily. Awnings are also on swing devices which allow them to be retracted when the trains come. It is an absolute hoot when the big yellow commuter train pulls through the market… items are retracted on their skids, awnings are pulled back…. THIS IS THAILAND AND IT IS UNIQUE…. Many of tong’s guides are here with groups… everyone knows tong… locals call out her name…
Roger picked us up at the other end of the market… cool van, cold water and lovely cold towels… THIS IS THE ONLY WAY TO TOUR AND SURVIVE AND SEE LOTS IN ONE DAY…
Maeklong is the name of the market and it is in Sumutsongkram province according to K’s notes.
From there we headed to the famous floating market at Damnoen Saduak, perhaps a one hour ride…. Tong spends at least 50% of her time hanging over the front seat and talking and joking with us and giving the newbies tourist info… she fields calls all day from customers and we get to see her very detailed and neat schedule book…. She has so many things going on it is truly amazing…. She has about 10 guides working for her…
A boat was hired for 400 B and we were paddled through the main part of the market, but also through many back local canals…. This was a lovely hour plus ride before returning back to the main canal and a huge traffic jam…. I wish they would return to only paddled boats, instead of also allowing motor boats in the canals…
All during our ride, tong is constantly buying foods for us to try… all fresh, all delicious… my fav was the grilled, slightly spicy, pork slices served on a bamboo stick…
After more than 15 minutes stuck in a 30 foot area of the canal, we finally made it back to the pier….
A short walk through some of the shops and we were in the van heading for the Tiger Temple, in the Kanchanaburi area…. It now has a slightly new name which reveals it new commercial existence…. Everyone there knows tong and she gets many favors, including some head of line privileges…
Our immediate impression, and the one for our whole visit and afterwards, is one of a well run, caring, safe, clean, compassionate, do-good facility. As tong points out they are not 100% pure in any way, but they are doing a good job and the tigers do not appear to be mistreated in any way or drugged….
The staff is mostly thai young men and women, but there are a number of western volunteers as well…. We spent some time talking to a canadian guy who has been there for 18 months, and is the “mc” and probably a supervisor of some kind… the staff often takes your cameras from you to get excellent shots of you and the tigers… there are currently 75 tigers here along with a variety of other animals. The large tigers are restrained with huge chains secured into the ground…. The young ones are on lesser restraints…
We spent quite a while watching 4 4 month olds fighting and playing with each other in a wet area…. We patted and touched a number of mid-size animals…. The staff which must number 100 are constantly watching the animals for aggression and quick movements and for visitors keeping a safe distance from animals…. It is all very well run and imo very safe, and tons of fun…
At two different times we were invited to approach the big fully grown guys and kneel by them, stroke them and have pics taken… if the animal decides to move, turn over, etc you are moved out of the way very fast by the staff….. your position is always on the left side of the tiger between his butt and mid chest…
Following this informal “touching”, the people assembled are invited into a pavilion where you are spoken to, in English, about the processional walk down into the “canyon”.
Groups of about 25-30 are formed for accompanying the 12 large tigers on this walk down into the manmade canyon. Each person is allowed to walk the tiger on a leash and pat him during this walk… Tong advises that you hang back to be in the last group as it is hot as hell in the canyon and nothing happens until all groups reach the canyon—maybe 30+ minutes. Once in the canyon, more instructions are given and you line up to be taken one by one to visit almost each tiger and have tons of pics taken by another staff person… so in fact two staff persons are assigned to each of you….. while this sounds all very militaristic, in fact it is all necessary for safety of you and the animals and staff…. We were very impressed…
I had long had mixed feelings about this visit, but after having finally done it, I can suggest strongly that each of you include it in your tour plans…
The center has many other offerings, like feeding babies, etc, all at a significant cost, but the basic program we did cost us only 500 B pp.
Following this visit we were hot, starved and tired. Tong phoned ahead to the Pak-wan-ban restaurant, just down the road and ordered a fab thai lunch for us… it was on the table when we arrived…. Clean place…. The food was all delicious… spice was just right too… we had our own small garden thatched roof house to eat in with an electric fan… PERFECT!!
From there we headed cross country through beautiful rolling hill and small mountain farming country (lots of sugar cane). Our destination was the Moo Baan alternative education community---a local orphanage and home for children whose family could no longer care for them…. Ages 5-15 y.o. Rather than a book learning environment, each child is taught a trade or job…. For instance one shop was to learn about electricity… a very good program… the large wooded campus had many many buildings…. There are currently about 140 residents….
Tong had arranged with a local culinary college to bake fancy decorated sheet cakes for us to give to the kids….
When we got out of the van, we were surrounded with bright and happy (mostly happy) faces…. Many spoke a bit of English… “big” immediately attached himself to me…. Rather appropriate… all were clean and decently dressed… this is an independent orphanage started by a local teacher…. Their funding is very limited…
The kids gathered in a large open air structure and sat on the floor all lined up… K, P and K sat behind a large table with the 5 or so cakes on it… the cakes had been but into 2 inch squares… each had a different look and taste… the kids lined up and pointed to the cake they wanted… after first servings there were 2nds and 3rds for some… it was great fun…
There was another line too where they were given a drink, cookies, candy and other things---sugar highs all around…
WE LOVED IT AND THEY LOVED IT…..
Tong advised that a 1500 B donation would be appropriate…. This included the cake cost….
We toured many of the buildings including one where the kids were dancing, and I joined in….
At the end we went to the camp store and bought several things that the kids had made---all quite nice…. The kids get 100% of the money individually for their works which are sold… there was weaving, silk painting on squares, pottery, etc…
From there we began our 3 hour ride back to bkk… all was well until just before bkk when the traffic thickened and slowed to a crawl… part of the problem was that the red shirts were having yet another demo near to central chitlom…. It was peaceful and more demands were made but made a mess of traffic…
We finally got back to Marriott about 8PM.
Dinner was in the Marriott restaurant… I had a turkey club and fries which hit the spot, followed by yet another lemon tart…
Totally exhausted we all fell literally into bed….
All up early…. We still had some fantastic raisin bread to toast and two kinds of jam and butter, plus tea, orange juice (thick and non-acidic), so breakfast was easy in the apartment…
We all did some internet (535B per day), which was expensive….
The morning’s activity was a rare weekday thai craft organization craft show at the jasmine center (corner of soi 23 and sukhumvit). www.thaicraft.org It started at 9:30…. These are held at least twice monthly, usually on Saturdays. They offer a variety of fair trade craft items from various workshops, mostly in the north… K always finds tons of goodies there: placemats, silver jewelry, greeting cards, baskets, pottery, clothing, fabulous silk scarves in a variety of designs, kids gifts, hand painted items and much more… check their on line schedule for shows…
This is a good source of reasonable high quality items and profits go directly to the producers, many of which are charity based programs…
Even though we had attended a show in October, K found a number of items to buy… P & K also found nice things… all bought modern designed silk scarves from one vendor who then placed them in nice silk covered presentation boxes--- about $12-15 each…
Greeting cards were handmade and cost about $.75 to $2.25.
From there we headed to the Jim Thompson House for lunch and a tour…. It took me about 5 or 6 tries to find a taxi willing to go there, or to understand what place I wanted to go to…
We were all starved by this point so we went right into the restaurant----ate inside in a/c, although you can eat outside… we love this restaurant for its food… a highlight was the pomello salad…. K had her usual pasta dish with bacon… lots of pics… the girls had fancy fruit drinks… we all had yummy desserts…
Following lunch we bought our tour tickets for the English tour of the house. We had some extra time so we visited the JT store there. We met up with Mary, from our cooking class, who was on her day tour with one of tong’s staff, which I had arranged for mary’s family…. They were very pleased thus far with their guide experience….
The house was very busy… Our tour began… our guide was good, but not fabulous… the tour takes 35 minutes. We noticed that they have reduced the rules and you are now allowed to roam a bit more freely in certain areas after the tour… also more pic taking is allowed from outside the house. Cost of tour 100 B….
As I have said so often, I consider this the # 2 or 3 tourist highlight in bangkok.
From JT we took a taxi back to the hotel, but not without a hitch… a co-ordinator/facilator, read crook, was waiting right outside JT house on the soi… If we were willing to stop at a “government shop”, we could have the taxi for 100 B, otherwise it would be 300 B to our hotel… I can play this game… so quickly we were in a taxi and on our way to this tourist rip-off shop about 5 blocks away… our plan was a 5-10 minute stop… the driver then gets 1 litre of gas for his taxi and a huge commission if you buy anything… we fooled them!! We did make one comparison: a channel set sapphire gold ring was about $1100. A similar ring at thai stone jewelry, with a much heavier 18k setting, was about $675. we got out of there in less than 10 min.
We rested in the hotel for an hour or so, then headed to river city shopping center, next to ROS… the taxi took over an hour. We checked in with js thai silk for progress on projects and fittings… things were coming along nicely….
We walked from there to Harmonique where we were meeting up with a friend of Pat’s and his partner. He is a Bostonian who moved to bkk right out of college and is now president of a PR firm here. The partner is about to open a pastry shop on ruam rudi rd.
We had a nice dinner with a real variety of dishes…
We took a taxi back to the Marriott on soi 24. Jack was due there between 9 and 10 for fittings…. He and 2 staff arrived about 9:30 PM… all garments are progressing…. Kathleen is amazed at how fast they can produce fabulous items…
Fell into bed exhausted and not looking forward to our 6AM wake up call….
We are really liking the Marriott serviced apartment… the suite is lovely and comfortable, there is a full kitchen, a nice eating table and a nice living area and work area, plus two huge en-suite bathrooms—one king and one with 2 double beds. Perfect for a family or two couples… Marriott sukhumvit park serviced apartment… 6900 B++
Friday
This was to prove to be the first of two back to back exhausting days with Tong (tourwithtong.com)…..
Our wake-up call came at 6AM for our 6:45 p/u…. Tong was in the lobby by 6:40 and we did introductions for P & K… Roger, tong’s fabulous and funny driver was waiting for us in tong’s huge grey van. We really love roger!!!
This day was slated as our out of town day and was to last 13+ hours…. To see some of the out of town places, you need to start early from bkk to avoid traffic and to get to places at the optimum time…
First stop is the railroad market…. This local market is about a 1 hour ride from bkk. You walk along the road bed of the tracks… foods of every description are displayed right up to the edge of the train tracks… many are on the ground, but also many are on carts on sliding tracks which can be pulled back a couple of feet when the train comes, which it does 8 times daily. Awnings are also on swing devices which allow them to be retracted when the trains come. It is an absolute hoot when the big yellow commuter train pulls through the market… items are retracted on their skids, awnings are pulled back…. THIS IS THAILAND AND IT IS UNIQUE…. Many of tong’s guides are here with groups… everyone knows tong… locals call out her name…
Roger picked us up at the other end of the market… cool van, cold water and lovely cold towels… THIS IS THE ONLY WAY TO TOUR AND SURVIVE AND SEE LOTS IN ONE DAY…
Maeklong is the name of the market and it is in Sumutsongkram province according to K’s notes.
From there we headed to the famous floating market at Damnoen Saduak, perhaps a one hour ride…. Tong spends at least 50% of her time hanging over the front seat and talking and joking with us and giving the newbies tourist info… she fields calls all day from customers and we get to see her very detailed and neat schedule book…. She has so many things going on it is truly amazing…. She has about 10 guides working for her…
A boat was hired for 400 B and we were paddled through the main part of the market, but also through many back local canals…. This was a lovely hour plus ride before returning back to the main canal and a huge traffic jam…. I wish they would return to only paddled boats, instead of also allowing motor boats in the canals…
All during our ride, tong is constantly buying foods for us to try… all fresh, all delicious… my fav was the grilled, slightly spicy, pork slices served on a bamboo stick…
After more than 15 minutes stuck in a 30 foot area of the canal, we finally made it back to the pier….
A short walk through some of the shops and we were in the van heading for the Tiger Temple, in the Kanchanaburi area…. It now has a slightly new name which reveals it new commercial existence…. Everyone there knows tong and she gets many favors, including some head of line privileges…
Our immediate impression, and the one for our whole visit and afterwards, is one of a well run, caring, safe, clean, compassionate, do-good facility. As tong points out they are not 100% pure in any way, but they are doing a good job and the tigers do not appear to be mistreated in any way or drugged….
The staff is mostly thai young men and women, but there are a number of western volunteers as well…. We spent some time talking to a canadian guy who has been there for 18 months, and is the “mc” and probably a supervisor of some kind… the staff often takes your cameras from you to get excellent shots of you and the tigers… there are currently 75 tigers here along with a variety of other animals. The large tigers are restrained with huge chains secured into the ground…. The young ones are on lesser restraints…
We spent quite a while watching 4 4 month olds fighting and playing with each other in a wet area…. We patted and touched a number of mid-size animals…. The staff which must number 100 are constantly watching the animals for aggression and quick movements and for visitors keeping a safe distance from animals…. It is all very well run and imo very safe, and tons of fun…
At two different times we were invited to approach the big fully grown guys and kneel by them, stroke them and have pics taken… if the animal decides to move, turn over, etc you are moved out of the way very fast by the staff….. your position is always on the left side of the tiger between his butt and mid chest…
Following this informal “touching”, the people assembled are invited into a pavilion where you are spoken to, in English, about the processional walk down into the “canyon”.
Groups of about 25-30 are formed for accompanying the 12 large tigers on this walk down into the manmade canyon. Each person is allowed to walk the tiger on a leash and pat him during this walk… Tong advises that you hang back to be in the last group as it is hot as hell in the canyon and nothing happens until all groups reach the canyon—maybe 30+ minutes. Once in the canyon, more instructions are given and you line up to be taken one by one to visit almost each tiger and have tons of pics taken by another staff person… so in fact two staff persons are assigned to each of you….. while this sounds all very militaristic, in fact it is all necessary for safety of you and the animals and staff…. We were very impressed…
I had long had mixed feelings about this visit, but after having finally done it, I can suggest strongly that each of you include it in your tour plans…
The center has many other offerings, like feeding babies, etc, all at a significant cost, but the basic program we did cost us only 500 B pp.
Following this visit we were hot, starved and tired. Tong phoned ahead to the Pak-wan-ban restaurant, just down the road and ordered a fab thai lunch for us… it was on the table when we arrived…. Clean place…. The food was all delicious… spice was just right too… we had our own small garden thatched roof house to eat in with an electric fan… PERFECT!!
From there we headed cross country through beautiful rolling hill and small mountain farming country (lots of sugar cane). Our destination was the Moo Baan alternative education community---a local orphanage and home for children whose family could no longer care for them…. Ages 5-15 y.o. Rather than a book learning environment, each child is taught a trade or job…. For instance one shop was to learn about electricity… a very good program… the large wooded campus had many many buildings…. There are currently about 140 residents….
Tong had arranged with a local culinary college to bake fancy decorated sheet cakes for us to give to the kids….
When we got out of the van, we were surrounded with bright and happy (mostly happy) faces…. Many spoke a bit of English… “big” immediately attached himself to me…. Rather appropriate… all were clean and decently dressed… this is an independent orphanage started by a local teacher…. Their funding is very limited…
The kids gathered in a large open air structure and sat on the floor all lined up… K, P and K sat behind a large table with the 5 or so cakes on it… the cakes had been but into 2 inch squares… each had a different look and taste… the kids lined up and pointed to the cake they wanted… after first servings there were 2nds and 3rds for some… it was great fun…
There was another line too where they were given a drink, cookies, candy and other things---sugar highs all around…
WE LOVED IT AND THEY LOVED IT…..
Tong advised that a 1500 B donation would be appropriate…. This included the cake cost….
We toured many of the buildings including one where the kids were dancing, and I joined in….
At the end we went to the camp store and bought several things that the kids had made---all quite nice…. The kids get 100% of the money individually for their works which are sold… there was weaving, silk painting on squares, pottery, etc…
From there we began our 3 hour ride back to bkk… all was well until just before bkk when the traffic thickened and slowed to a crawl… part of the problem was that the red shirts were having yet another demo near to central chitlom…. It was peaceful and more demands were made but made a mess of traffic…
We finally got back to Marriott about 8PM.
Dinner was in the Marriott restaurant… I had a turkey club and fries which hit the spot, followed by yet another lemon tart…
Totally exhausted we all fell literally into bed….
#299
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Sounds like a terrific day. Tong was sick when we went to the Tiger Temple, so we went with one of her guides and while I also had mixed feelings about going, thoroughly enjoyed my time with the tigers and have had a photo with one of the big ones as my screen saver ever since. I did feed one milk tablets off my hand and was surprised at how soft his tongue was. However, I quickly removed my hand when the tablets got too soft and he was about to try to bite them off my palm!!