Reflection on a Fortnight in Bangkok and Phuket: A Trip Report
Feb 23rd, 2004, 06:41 PM
#22
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travel bear....for my planning purposes can you tell us more about what you ate at the seafood market and about how much it cost???
lindsey---i remember your original posting well and hope to use ratt in june....where did you get the spirit houses...in bkk or outside???
bob
lindsey---i remember your original posting well and hope to use ratt in june....where did you get the spirit houses...in bkk or outside???
bob
Feb 23rd, 2004, 09:52 PM
#23
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Bob,
The spirit house factory was a stop we made on the way back from the floating market. I was a bit turned around in my directions, since I was listening to Ratt's running commentary and not paying much attention to where we were going. But after we bought the spirit house, I think it only took us another 20 min or so to get back into the city.
The spirit house factory was a stop we made on the way back from the floating market. I was a bit turned around in my directions, since I was listening to Ratt's running commentary and not paying much attention to where we were going. But after we bought the spirit house, I think it only took us another 20 min or so to get back into the city.
Feb 24th, 2004, 10:04 AM
#27
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I'm running a bit behind in getting the next chapter up. Bear with me folks, I should have it up in the early evening. In the meantime, I address a couple of questions that arose.
I apologize that for some reason I did not include what we dined on, or what it costs us at the Seafood Market, but I got me to go review my credit card statement, so thanks for that. Now the way the restaurant bills you is a bit screwy, since you have to check out with your purchase, and you also have to pay for how you want it cooked. The cost of the seafood was $74.27 total (which included the tip I added on, probably around 15%). This included a Phuket lobster for LaNita, while I feasted on a freshwater prawn, the individual prices of which I have no idea about since a) it was in Baht per kilogram and b) I did not receive an itemized bill. Also thrown into the mix was a shrimp cake, stir fried vegetables and steamed asparagus. Added on to that was the cost of the cooking and our alcohol, a total of $22.42 (again including a 15% tip). Like I said, this restaurant is not indicative of Bangkok prices, but we just had such a blast we consider it money well spent (not to mention coming from New York, spending a mint on a meal is not that uncommon).
As for the pronunciation of ?Ratt? it reminded me of the rise I got out of our China Air crew. After landing in Bangkok, jet lagged, sleep deprived and just not in a normal mental state, I couldn?t help but laugh out loud when our flight attendant said ?we hope you had a pleasant fright? and ?thanks for frying with us.? In fact, it became one of those running vacation jokes that by the end of two-weeks LaNita convinced me had run its course. Or should I say, begged me to stop saying it every chance I got.
I'll get the rest of this trip report up later on. This will be the final trip installment, so the end is near!
I apologize that for some reason I did not include what we dined on, or what it costs us at the Seafood Market, but I got me to go review my credit card statement, so thanks for that. Now the way the restaurant bills you is a bit screwy, since you have to check out with your purchase, and you also have to pay for how you want it cooked. The cost of the seafood was $74.27 total (which included the tip I added on, probably around 15%). This included a Phuket lobster for LaNita, while I feasted on a freshwater prawn, the individual prices of which I have no idea about since a) it was in Baht per kilogram and b) I did not receive an itemized bill. Also thrown into the mix was a shrimp cake, stir fried vegetables and steamed asparagus. Added on to that was the cost of the cooking and our alcohol, a total of $22.42 (again including a 15% tip). Like I said, this restaurant is not indicative of Bangkok prices, but we just had such a blast we consider it money well spent (not to mention coming from New York, spending a mint on a meal is not that uncommon).
As for the pronunciation of ?Ratt? it reminded me of the rise I got out of our China Air crew. After landing in Bangkok, jet lagged, sleep deprived and just not in a normal mental state, I couldn?t help but laugh out loud when our flight attendant said ?we hope you had a pleasant fright? and ?thanks for frying with us.? In fact, it became one of those running vacation jokes that by the end of two-weeks LaNita convinced me had run its course. Or should I say, begged me to stop saying it every chance I got.
I'll get the rest of this trip report up later on. This will be the final trip installment, so the end is near!
Feb 24th, 2004, 11:45 AM
#28
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Phuket
At this point the trip report will hit a lull, much like the activity in our vacation did. This is not due to any unforeseen disaster or other unplanned event; rather it was all by design I assure you.
We awoke the next morning, checked out of the hotel and arrived at the early about two hours before our flight, more than enough time, but that was the arrangement we had with group, and since the airport transfer was included in the total price I had paid for the vacation, I saw no reason to arrange for transport any later. Besides, given what I had seen of Bangkok traffic so far in our trip, I thought the extra time might come in handy.
For the hour-long passage to Phuket we elected to fly Thai Airways, which had a barrage of flights to the southern beach destination throughout the day. Overall, I enjoyed the trip back in time that the flight was, as the décor of the plane made me think I was an extra in a Charlie?s Angels episode. Nevertheless, the seats were comfortable and we arrived with no fuss. Additionally, the flight over Phuket tantalized us with the tiny islands dotting the Andaman Sea and water becoming more and more beautiful the further south we flew.
After touching down and collecting our bags we noticed that Le Meridien, our hotel of choice for the duration of our stay had a desk set up to presumably assist in transport to the inn. Even though I had failed to make arrangements prior to our arrival, the clerk behind the desk provided much need assistance in arrange transport, and most importantly, warding off the many taxi drivers eager for tourist dollars.
The drive to the hotel though really took me by surprise, as we could see what Phuket had become after years of uncontrolled over development. All along the drive we saw strip malls, new condos, billboards and pretty much everything I was hoping to get away from. While the island as a whole like to proclaim itself the ?Pearl of the Andaman Sea? I think a more appropriate moniker might be ?The Plastic Bead at the End of a Gumball Bracelet of the Andaman Sea? after seeing how artificial the isle had become.
All of this though only helped us to appreciate Le Meridien that much more when we arrived. Set back off the main road surrounded by jungle, the hotel was a relaxing oasis that we welcomed for some much need rest and relaxation. While previously I was not the type of person to just sit on a beach for days on end, I welcomed the chance this time around for a couple of days of just beach time, and Le Meridien?s private beach fit the bill perfectly.
During my time on the beach I also read George Orwell?s Burmese Days, a great book that was brought to life by the subtropical environment that I was in. Overall, between all the airports, long flights and down time I manage to finish four books. In addition to Orwell?s book I also read Aldous Huxley?s Brave New World, which I had read in college, but it just somehow felt appropriate, George Fetherling?s Three Pagodas Pass, a short book about one Canadian writer?s recent trip to Burma, and Mitch Albom?s Tuesdays with Morrie, which I picked up in the Taipei airport having run out of reading material and staring at a 15 hour flight ahead. Even though I had no idea what the book was about prior to opening it up, I was so glad I ended up reading it and recommend it highly to anyone who thinks life is about getting bigger and better toys. It really changed my outlook on what we really should be living for.
So as you can probably tell, for the most part we spent the majority of our time on Le Meridien?s beach, a decision that was only solidified after a short trip to Patong for dinner. After thumbing through the local pamphlets in our room I noticed that there was a Mexican food place in Patong. Having grown up in deep South Texas, I consider myself a connoisseur of fine Mexican fare and thought I could not pass up a chance to taste the Thai rendering of fajitas. While they were definitely edible, I unfortunately I cannot pass on a recommendation for Viva Mexico?s cuisine. More importantly though we got a chance to see Patong as sunset and see what we were not missing. The minute we got off the shuttle bus in Patong, I wanted to leave, as it is overcrowded and overdeveloped to the point of disgust. Imagine if you will what the illegitimate child of Cancun and South Padre Island would look like and that is Patong. Though if nothing else, it again helped us to appreciate our hotel that much more.
Undeterred by Patong, we decided to get out and see other parts of the island as well. Le Meridien provided shuttle service to Patong and Phuket town and we decided to spend a few hours in Phuket town for a diversion from the beach. For 240 Baht each, we arranged for roundtrip transport, but what surprised me was the white glove treatment we got that went well beyond your standard roundtrip ride. Getting into the van and ready to go, our driver asked if we were going to Robinson?s department store, the drop off point for the shuttle service, to do some shopping. While this was one objective of our little excursion into town, I also had my eye on the Phuket Butterfly Garden and Aquarium and told him that we would be heading there first, then working our way back to town at our leisure. Hearing this, our driver said he would take us to the butterfly farm, which I told him was not really necessary, but since there was no one else in the shuttle he said it would not be a problem. Arriving at the garden, our driver then said he would wait as we toured the facility, again refusing my argument that all the service really wasn?t necessary. Although I was a bit wary of what he might be up to, I was left with little choice since there did not appear to be many transportation options in the area.
The butterfly farm provided an excellent departure from the beach and overall was a great place to observe a plethora of species of the Lepidoptera order. In, we spent about two hours wandering through the lush garden with camera in hand as countless butterflies fluttered about through the blooming flowers and over the small cataract set next to a relaxing gazebo. If anyone is looking for an escape from the beach oriented Phuket, this is a must do.
To my surprise, given how much time we spent with the butterflies, our driver was still there, waiting for us just as he said he would. From here we headed into town and went to the department store, where LaNita and I picked up a few of the Thai souvenirs we didn?t see in Bangkok. Robinson?s also provided a cheap dinning alternative on the top floor, where we had our pick of about a dozen different food court vendors. While LaNita wanted something more Western and went with Pizza, I was able to get a plate of seafood and rice for 30 Baht that was actually one of the better lunches I had the entire trip. True to form, after we were done shopping our driver was waiting for us as we headed back to the hotel. It goes without saying, with as much service as he gave us during the day, he got a nice tip!
For most every other occasion we stayed in the confines of the hotel, enjoying all the dining options, even though they were priced higher than what we would have found in town. It wasn?t until our last day on the island that we wandered out again, this time for a day excursion to the Phi Phi islands. LaNita was really looking forward to this outing; in fact, in large part the Phi Phi islands were the stimulus for our entire Thailand trip. After spending time on the islands, they very well could be reason enough for a second Thailand trip.
For the expedition, we called on Phuket Adventures and their all day speedboat tour (2800 Baht a person). Our trip would begin at 7:00 in the morning when we were scheduled to be picked up and last until our return at the hotel at 5:00 that evening. While we had previously sworn off package tours for an entire trip, we had not yet taken that course of action for individual tour options. After dealing with this outfit though, we swore we would never do a tour of any kind ever again.
To start with, the group going on this tour from our hotel was the first to be picked up by the free transfer bus. From there we spent the next two hours plodding along through Patong stopping to pick up one or two more people here and there, time that would have been much better spent doing something, anything, other than that. To make matters worse, our chaperone thought the crowd would appreciate some entertainment and put on a Mr. Bean tape. Great, so not only am I confined to a bus, but also I have to watch bad sophomoric comedy. If the Red Cross had been around, I am sure they would have deemed our detention as cruel and unusual.
As these things go, eventually we reached the dock, right on time at 9:00. But this does not mean we departed for the Phi Phis on time, far from it. After loading us on the boat we began to pull out of the marina only to discover the marina didn?t have enough water for the boats to get through, so we had to sit, on the boat, for the next hour while we waited for the tide to flow back in. Our trip host, an sociable Frenchman named Rocco, though assured us since we were getting out late, we would come back late. The first of many lies we would hear from Rocco that day.
After the channel filled up, we joined the parade of speedboats that slogged through the mud to get to the open waters of the Indian Ocean and speed us out to our various destinations. The ride out to the islands was an hour and a half of pure bronc bustin? rodeo action as we bounced from one swell to the next, making the sight of the islands, and the safety of their lagoons all that more enticing.
First stop was Loh Samah Bay on Ko Phi Phi Ley, the smaller and undeveloped of the two main Phi Phis, for a little snorkel and swim time. The bay was absolutely stunning, the water as clear as a swimming pool and the variety and quantity of sea life spectacular, I could have easily stayed at that spot all day long. Yet, being on a tour with 20 other people that was not to be, as 15 minutes later we were called back into the boat for our next stop. While the lack of time spent at this great place perturbed LaNita and I, I thought it could only get better, so back on the boat we went to search out the next destination.
That was not to be the case, and from here the lies started pouring in one after another. When we first inquired about this trip, the tour desk at our hotel provided a brochure that outlined what all we would see on our day at sea. The brochure labeled eight different stops, indicating that we would be stopping at each place to either walk on the beach or swim in the water. Apparently Rocco never got the brochure. Not only did we not even float by four of the promised stops, but the other ?stops? we only played lip service to, as the boat would go into a particular inlet, and immediately do a U-turn, with no time given for getting out into the water. In all during the morning part of the tour we visited three different spots and only got out at one of them. Oh well, by this time the lesson had been learned, never again with a tour!
Lunch was exactly what I expected it to be, a bunch of other tours herded along a buffet line of mediocre fare at the Viking Restaurant on Ko Phi Phi Don. We then proceeded to spend the next hour sitting there looking at each other as Rocco and Co sat on the boat and contemplated their navel.
However, as bad as I thought the morning was, the afternoon made up for it, turning our experience into a shear delight! After lunch we piled back into the boat and headed for Bamboo island, a small white sand ringed outcropping of rock off the northeastern shore of Phi Phi Don. This was exactly what the doctored ordered, as we spent the next two hours here, virtually alone, free to swim, snorkel, sun or whatever other activity floated our boat.
Right on time, despite Rocco?s earlier assurances that we would come back late, we got back onto the boat and headed back to town. We could have definitely spent more time in the Phi Phis though, and on our next trip we definitely will.
And with that, this report nears its natural conclusion. The next day we flew back to Bangkok and stayed at the Miracle Grand Convention Hotel, which was conveniently located across the expressway from the airport. Overall, the hotel was very nice and provided the absolutely best buffet I have ever seen! However, we were put up on the East side of the hotel, meaning we faced not only the Expressway, but also the train tracks and the airport. This was not exactly the quietest spot to lay your head down, but we are generally able to sleep through anything and that evening was no exception.
The flight back was thankfully uneventful, only long. From Bangkok it was three hours to Taipei. After four hours to see all the Taipei airport had to offer, we board a nonstop flight to JFK, which took 15 hours. I weathered the ride surprisingly well, at least better than I did the ride going over.
Cue the fat lady, the report is done! I will post up one addendum tomorrow offering some final thoughts, a sample itinerary based on our experiences and providing everyone with the link to our pictures (as of yet, they are still not all up). If anyone has any questions feel free to ask, I?ll do the best I can to answer them.
At this point the trip report will hit a lull, much like the activity in our vacation did. This is not due to any unforeseen disaster or other unplanned event; rather it was all by design I assure you.
We awoke the next morning, checked out of the hotel and arrived at the early about two hours before our flight, more than enough time, but that was the arrangement we had with group, and since the airport transfer was included in the total price I had paid for the vacation, I saw no reason to arrange for transport any later. Besides, given what I had seen of Bangkok traffic so far in our trip, I thought the extra time might come in handy.
For the hour-long passage to Phuket we elected to fly Thai Airways, which had a barrage of flights to the southern beach destination throughout the day. Overall, I enjoyed the trip back in time that the flight was, as the décor of the plane made me think I was an extra in a Charlie?s Angels episode. Nevertheless, the seats were comfortable and we arrived with no fuss. Additionally, the flight over Phuket tantalized us with the tiny islands dotting the Andaman Sea and water becoming more and more beautiful the further south we flew.
After touching down and collecting our bags we noticed that Le Meridien, our hotel of choice for the duration of our stay had a desk set up to presumably assist in transport to the inn. Even though I had failed to make arrangements prior to our arrival, the clerk behind the desk provided much need assistance in arrange transport, and most importantly, warding off the many taxi drivers eager for tourist dollars.
The drive to the hotel though really took me by surprise, as we could see what Phuket had become after years of uncontrolled over development. All along the drive we saw strip malls, new condos, billboards and pretty much everything I was hoping to get away from. While the island as a whole like to proclaim itself the ?Pearl of the Andaman Sea? I think a more appropriate moniker might be ?The Plastic Bead at the End of a Gumball Bracelet of the Andaman Sea? after seeing how artificial the isle had become.
All of this though only helped us to appreciate Le Meridien that much more when we arrived. Set back off the main road surrounded by jungle, the hotel was a relaxing oasis that we welcomed for some much need rest and relaxation. While previously I was not the type of person to just sit on a beach for days on end, I welcomed the chance this time around for a couple of days of just beach time, and Le Meridien?s private beach fit the bill perfectly.
During my time on the beach I also read George Orwell?s Burmese Days, a great book that was brought to life by the subtropical environment that I was in. Overall, between all the airports, long flights and down time I manage to finish four books. In addition to Orwell?s book I also read Aldous Huxley?s Brave New World, which I had read in college, but it just somehow felt appropriate, George Fetherling?s Three Pagodas Pass, a short book about one Canadian writer?s recent trip to Burma, and Mitch Albom?s Tuesdays with Morrie, which I picked up in the Taipei airport having run out of reading material and staring at a 15 hour flight ahead. Even though I had no idea what the book was about prior to opening it up, I was so glad I ended up reading it and recommend it highly to anyone who thinks life is about getting bigger and better toys. It really changed my outlook on what we really should be living for.
So as you can probably tell, for the most part we spent the majority of our time on Le Meridien?s beach, a decision that was only solidified after a short trip to Patong for dinner. After thumbing through the local pamphlets in our room I noticed that there was a Mexican food place in Patong. Having grown up in deep South Texas, I consider myself a connoisseur of fine Mexican fare and thought I could not pass up a chance to taste the Thai rendering of fajitas. While they were definitely edible, I unfortunately I cannot pass on a recommendation for Viva Mexico?s cuisine. More importantly though we got a chance to see Patong as sunset and see what we were not missing. The minute we got off the shuttle bus in Patong, I wanted to leave, as it is overcrowded and overdeveloped to the point of disgust. Imagine if you will what the illegitimate child of Cancun and South Padre Island would look like and that is Patong. Though if nothing else, it again helped us to appreciate our hotel that much more.
Undeterred by Patong, we decided to get out and see other parts of the island as well. Le Meridien provided shuttle service to Patong and Phuket town and we decided to spend a few hours in Phuket town for a diversion from the beach. For 240 Baht each, we arranged for roundtrip transport, but what surprised me was the white glove treatment we got that went well beyond your standard roundtrip ride. Getting into the van and ready to go, our driver asked if we were going to Robinson?s department store, the drop off point for the shuttle service, to do some shopping. While this was one objective of our little excursion into town, I also had my eye on the Phuket Butterfly Garden and Aquarium and told him that we would be heading there first, then working our way back to town at our leisure. Hearing this, our driver said he would take us to the butterfly farm, which I told him was not really necessary, but since there was no one else in the shuttle he said it would not be a problem. Arriving at the garden, our driver then said he would wait as we toured the facility, again refusing my argument that all the service really wasn?t necessary. Although I was a bit wary of what he might be up to, I was left with little choice since there did not appear to be many transportation options in the area.
The butterfly farm provided an excellent departure from the beach and overall was a great place to observe a plethora of species of the Lepidoptera order. In, we spent about two hours wandering through the lush garden with camera in hand as countless butterflies fluttered about through the blooming flowers and over the small cataract set next to a relaxing gazebo. If anyone is looking for an escape from the beach oriented Phuket, this is a must do.
To my surprise, given how much time we spent with the butterflies, our driver was still there, waiting for us just as he said he would. From here we headed into town and went to the department store, where LaNita and I picked up a few of the Thai souvenirs we didn?t see in Bangkok. Robinson?s also provided a cheap dinning alternative on the top floor, where we had our pick of about a dozen different food court vendors. While LaNita wanted something more Western and went with Pizza, I was able to get a plate of seafood and rice for 30 Baht that was actually one of the better lunches I had the entire trip. True to form, after we were done shopping our driver was waiting for us as we headed back to the hotel. It goes without saying, with as much service as he gave us during the day, he got a nice tip!
For most every other occasion we stayed in the confines of the hotel, enjoying all the dining options, even though they were priced higher than what we would have found in town. It wasn?t until our last day on the island that we wandered out again, this time for a day excursion to the Phi Phi islands. LaNita was really looking forward to this outing; in fact, in large part the Phi Phi islands were the stimulus for our entire Thailand trip. After spending time on the islands, they very well could be reason enough for a second Thailand trip.
For the expedition, we called on Phuket Adventures and their all day speedboat tour (2800 Baht a person). Our trip would begin at 7:00 in the morning when we were scheduled to be picked up and last until our return at the hotel at 5:00 that evening. While we had previously sworn off package tours for an entire trip, we had not yet taken that course of action for individual tour options. After dealing with this outfit though, we swore we would never do a tour of any kind ever again.
To start with, the group going on this tour from our hotel was the first to be picked up by the free transfer bus. From there we spent the next two hours plodding along through Patong stopping to pick up one or two more people here and there, time that would have been much better spent doing something, anything, other than that. To make matters worse, our chaperone thought the crowd would appreciate some entertainment and put on a Mr. Bean tape. Great, so not only am I confined to a bus, but also I have to watch bad sophomoric comedy. If the Red Cross had been around, I am sure they would have deemed our detention as cruel and unusual.
As these things go, eventually we reached the dock, right on time at 9:00. But this does not mean we departed for the Phi Phis on time, far from it. After loading us on the boat we began to pull out of the marina only to discover the marina didn?t have enough water for the boats to get through, so we had to sit, on the boat, for the next hour while we waited for the tide to flow back in. Our trip host, an sociable Frenchman named Rocco, though assured us since we were getting out late, we would come back late. The first of many lies we would hear from Rocco that day.
After the channel filled up, we joined the parade of speedboats that slogged through the mud to get to the open waters of the Indian Ocean and speed us out to our various destinations. The ride out to the islands was an hour and a half of pure bronc bustin? rodeo action as we bounced from one swell to the next, making the sight of the islands, and the safety of their lagoons all that more enticing.
First stop was Loh Samah Bay on Ko Phi Phi Ley, the smaller and undeveloped of the two main Phi Phis, for a little snorkel and swim time. The bay was absolutely stunning, the water as clear as a swimming pool and the variety and quantity of sea life spectacular, I could have easily stayed at that spot all day long. Yet, being on a tour with 20 other people that was not to be, as 15 minutes later we were called back into the boat for our next stop. While the lack of time spent at this great place perturbed LaNita and I, I thought it could only get better, so back on the boat we went to search out the next destination.
That was not to be the case, and from here the lies started pouring in one after another. When we first inquired about this trip, the tour desk at our hotel provided a brochure that outlined what all we would see on our day at sea. The brochure labeled eight different stops, indicating that we would be stopping at each place to either walk on the beach or swim in the water. Apparently Rocco never got the brochure. Not only did we not even float by four of the promised stops, but the other ?stops? we only played lip service to, as the boat would go into a particular inlet, and immediately do a U-turn, with no time given for getting out into the water. In all during the morning part of the tour we visited three different spots and only got out at one of them. Oh well, by this time the lesson had been learned, never again with a tour!
Lunch was exactly what I expected it to be, a bunch of other tours herded along a buffet line of mediocre fare at the Viking Restaurant on Ko Phi Phi Don. We then proceeded to spend the next hour sitting there looking at each other as Rocco and Co sat on the boat and contemplated their navel.
However, as bad as I thought the morning was, the afternoon made up for it, turning our experience into a shear delight! After lunch we piled back into the boat and headed for Bamboo island, a small white sand ringed outcropping of rock off the northeastern shore of Phi Phi Don. This was exactly what the doctored ordered, as we spent the next two hours here, virtually alone, free to swim, snorkel, sun or whatever other activity floated our boat.
Right on time, despite Rocco?s earlier assurances that we would come back late, we got back onto the boat and headed back to town. We could have definitely spent more time in the Phi Phis though, and on our next trip we definitely will.
And with that, this report nears its natural conclusion. The next day we flew back to Bangkok and stayed at the Miracle Grand Convention Hotel, which was conveniently located across the expressway from the airport. Overall, the hotel was very nice and provided the absolutely best buffet I have ever seen! However, we were put up on the East side of the hotel, meaning we faced not only the Expressway, but also the train tracks and the airport. This was not exactly the quietest spot to lay your head down, but we are generally able to sleep through anything and that evening was no exception.
The flight back was thankfully uneventful, only long. From Bangkok it was three hours to Taipei. After four hours to see all the Taipei airport had to offer, we board a nonstop flight to JFK, which took 15 hours. I weathered the ride surprisingly well, at least better than I did the ride going over.
Cue the fat lady, the report is done! I will post up one addendum tomorrow offering some final thoughts, a sample itinerary based on our experiences and providing everyone with the link to our pictures (as of yet, they are still not all up). If anyone has any questions feel free to ask, I?ll do the best I can to answer them.
Feb 24th, 2004, 02:19 PM
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travelbear,
You're probably right about avoiding those group tours if you're inclined to make travel decisions on your own and if you make some plans to ensure the day's enjoyment. Not to pour salt into your wounds, but instead of spending 5600 baht for the two of you to take the day trip to the Phi Phi Islands, for the same amount of money you could have stayed at a resort on Phi Phi Don; you could have been transported roundtrip between the airport and the island; you could have enjoyed a 6-hour custom, private tour on a longboat to go anywhere of your choice and to spend any amount of time of your choice at any particular place; and you could have had a box lunch on the boat and a seafood dinner on the beach after returning to Phi Phi Don.
Similarly, for the same price a couple pays for the tour from Bangkok to Ayatthuya (sp?), you can hire a car and driver for the day to do anything you want.
You're probably right about avoiding those group tours if you're inclined to make travel decisions on your own and if you make some plans to ensure the day's enjoyment. Not to pour salt into your wounds, but instead of spending 5600 baht for the two of you to take the day trip to the Phi Phi Islands, for the same amount of money you could have stayed at a resort on Phi Phi Don; you could have been transported roundtrip between the airport and the island; you could have enjoyed a 6-hour custom, private tour on a longboat to go anywhere of your choice and to spend any amount of time of your choice at any particular place; and you could have had a box lunch on the boat and a seafood dinner on the beach after returning to Phi Phi Don.
Similarly, for the same price a couple pays for the tour from Bangkok to Ayatthuya (sp?), you can hire a car and driver for the day to do anything you want.
Feb 24th, 2004, 04:28 PM
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Thanks travelbear for a delightful and fascinating report
I was just in that part of the world and you have Bangkok "dead to rights". It is a glorious and frustrating town
I have to put in a word for the Ayuthaya tour that uses the boat on the way back. We had a decent amount of time at Bang-pa In and 2 of the ancient sites in Ayuthaya. The guide was fine and the boar ride down the Chao Praya was the journey of a lifetime. [do you know there are kilometer signs stuck in the river every now and then -- just like the interstate
]I thought it was a very well spent $40 US. [and I'm not generally a tour person.]]
I was just in that part of the world and you have Bangkok "dead to rights". It is a glorious and frustrating townI have to put in a word for the Ayuthaya tour that uses the boat on the way back. We had a decent amount of time at Bang-pa In and 2 of the ancient sites in Ayuthaya. The guide was fine and the boar ride down the Chao Praya was the journey of a lifetime. [do you know there are kilometer signs stuck in the river every now and then -- just like the interstate
]I thought it was a very well spent $40 US. [and I'm not generally a tour person.]]
Feb 24th, 2004, 05:56 PM
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travel bear---i loved the report...i am only sorry that you had so many bad experiences....it is not necessary..
may i suggest some of the following: next time go completely on your own...plan it out and use a thai travel agent if needed...stay in a better grade of hotel in bkk...as i mentioned before, i think, try the marriott resort and spa or one of the other riverside hotels...eat in better places, both thai food, chinese, and any other nation you can think of, in fact.....don't look at that guide book of yours again and if you haven't already throw it off of the top of the empire state building....i have not gone to phuket for just the reasons you mentioned about what you disliked about it (i had suspected that it might be that way)...i am going to koh samui in june and have my fingers crossed that it is not like what you have described (as yet, but it will be i am sure)....go for a longer time if you can---say 3 weeks....try northern thailand--chiangmai and chiang rai areas....hire private cars or the like of ratt frequently....don't try to do too much each day--its too damn hot and humid....take frequent pool breaks...in the case of touts, don't try to be kind or even civil---IGNOR THEM...pick people's brains on fodors when doing your planning over and over..break your voyage up with a stop on the west coast or hawaii for a day to make the flight more tolerable....
enough preaching...hope you take it constructively...its ment that way....
lastly how was china air?? would you take them again??
bob
may i suggest some of the following: next time go completely on your own...plan it out and use a thai travel agent if needed...stay in a better grade of hotel in bkk...as i mentioned before, i think, try the marriott resort and spa or one of the other riverside hotels...eat in better places, both thai food, chinese, and any other nation you can think of, in fact.....don't look at that guide book of yours again and if you haven't already throw it off of the top of the empire state building....i have not gone to phuket for just the reasons you mentioned about what you disliked about it (i had suspected that it might be that way)...i am going to koh samui in june and have my fingers crossed that it is not like what you have described (as yet, but it will be i am sure)....go for a longer time if you can---say 3 weeks....try northern thailand--chiangmai and chiang rai areas....hire private cars or the like of ratt frequently....don't try to do too much each day--its too damn hot and humid....take frequent pool breaks...in the case of touts, don't try to be kind or even civil---IGNOR THEM...pick people's brains on fodors when doing your planning over and over..break your voyage up with a stop on the west coast or hawaii for a day to make the flight more tolerable....
enough preaching...hope you take it constructively...its ment that way....
lastly how was china air?? would you take them again??
bob
Feb 24th, 2004, 06:28 PM
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dificult/bad trips make the best stories and you remember them the most.. maybe that why many of us choose too go too exotic places.
Many budget travalers and backpackers can easaly afford too stay in decent hotels and resots . but there is no adventure in that nor anythng deep too learn
Travebear's report brought back tons of memories of past trips and hassles I went threw.. it's not easy being a traveler but it's all been worth it..
Many budget travalers and backpackers can easaly afford too stay in decent hotels and resots . but there is no adventure in that nor anythng deep too learn
Travebear's report brought back tons of memories of past trips and hassles I went threw.. it's not easy being a traveler but it's all been worth it..
Feb 24th, 2004, 07:05 PM
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Excellent report, sad that you suffered those annoyances, the price of the dinner in Bangkok, well, I think I can probably 'figure that out', it certainly was "off this planet" in terms of costs...unbelievable.
A tip for others, often the food you choose in a Seafood place is not the food you get...it's a good diea to go to a place that cooks in the open and never hesitate to watch your food being cokked, my wife monitors the whole process from choosing to finish..
Sure, huge Beer billboards heading from the airport, girlie bar billboards and Scandinavian restaurant hoardings heading into Patong make you wonder how old those Brochure photos are ( 14 years my guess )
"The minute we got off the shuttle bus in Patong, I wanted to leave"..unfortunately it is about expectations, if a place is promoted as an enchanting 'Bali-Hi' tropical paradise Patong comes as shock in the 'extreme', glad the Meridien came up to the mark. I guess I am lucky that from the word go I had my then future wife as guide and protector.
A tip for others, often the food you choose in a Seafood place is not the food you get...it's a good diea to go to a place that cooks in the open and never hesitate to watch your food being cokked, my wife monitors the whole process from choosing to finish..
Sure, huge Beer billboards heading from the airport, girlie bar billboards and Scandinavian restaurant hoardings heading into Patong make you wonder how old those Brochure photos are ( 14 years my guess )
"The minute we got off the shuttle bus in Patong, I wanted to leave"..unfortunately it is about expectations, if a place is promoted as an enchanting 'Bali-Hi' tropical paradise Patong comes as shock in the 'extreme', glad the Meridien came up to the mark. I guess I am lucky that from the word go I had my then future wife as guide and protector.
Feb 26th, 2004, 10:53 AM
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Postscript
Thanks everyone for the kind words, constructive criticisms and tips for future planning. Thailand is an amazing, fascinating country is a dynamic and enthralling part of the world; we will be back sooner rather than later. High on our list is Chang Mai, it really is too bad we did not pick that part up on this trip, but our time constraints simply would not allow for it. As for other nations, I am intrigued by Laos and Cambodia and would definitely like to see both of those countries before they are further ?discovered.? China and Vietnam are also two lands high on the list, although I have decided to do those two as two separate complete trips. I also would like to spend some time in Malaysia and Indonesia island hopping.
As for Burma, I have decided not to visit that nation until the military junta is replaced with a more civilized regime. I understand that this is a tenuous decision and that there are people on both sides of the fence, but after reading up on the situation, this is the conclusion both LaNita and I came to. Feel free to weigh in on my opinion, maybe I am missing something, but I just can?t justify spending my tourist dollars, and ostensibly supporting the current regime, in that nation at the moment.
Since we have been back, we have been asked no less than 10 times where we are headed next. At this moment, it is hard to say. LaNita is lobbying hard for an in depth stay in and around Paris. I am intrigued by Mexico?s Yucatan (ex-Cancun and the like) and Western Belize. Then again, if I really want to be adventurous, I have heard wonderful things about Cartagena, Columbia and would love an opportunity to see this amazing town. For now, I think our next destination will depend primarily on where we can get the best deal.
To answer a few points brought up in the post-trip report era. I would most definitely fly China Air again (not to be confused with Air China, an airline I have not flown)! I was extremely impressed with the new fleet of planes and it was on the China Air flights that we have received the best service in riding in coach of all the places we have gone. As an added bonus, it seems as though this airline is often associated with some of the cheaper flights to Asia, so it makes it a very reasonable and economical option.
The fate of our Lonely Planet book was decided shortly after finishing the meat of our report. Now, in all fairness, we were using the 9th edition, and I see now that a 10th edition has been published, so perhaps some of the confusion has been cleared up. However, to ensure our version did not wind up in the wrong hands, we offered it up to the fireplace gods, were it went up like it was made out of children?s toys. Farewell misguided travel book.
Overall, despite the negative bent my report took at times, we really enjoyed our Thailand trip, and got out of it all that we had hoped. For anyone contemplating a trip to the former Siam, I say go in a heartbeat; it is not to be missed. Some random suggestions though:
? One, if you are planning on going to Phuket, spend at least two nights in the Phi Phi islands, because you will be sorry if you don?t. MikeBuckley was dead on, for what you spend on a day tour by speedboat, you can get a lot more bang for your Baht.
? Two, spend a full day in Ayuthaya. Be it by boat tour, train, private car, you name it, that site is worth a full day.
? Three, take advantage of private car and driver whenever possible, they are some cheap you can?t afford not to. I have a feeling if we had enlisted the aid of Ratt on our ?bad day? we would have had a much more enjoyable experience, and at 200 Baht an hour (roughly $5), how can you not?
? Four, if you really want to see the country, opt for the train or bus and forgo air transit. Of course, time constraints will often make flying the only option, but I left wishing we had taken another mode of transport to Phuket, taking a couple of days to get ourselves there.
? Five, make sure you select a centrally located hotel in Bangkok! Learn from our mistake on this one, you will be sorry if you end up staying on the outer fringe of the colossal city.
? Six, while it is also fun to try and learn some of the langauge wherever you go, English is pretty widely spoke in the Thailand that we visited. Unless you are like me, and think that most of the fun is in the pre-trip planning, I would not worry if you do not pick up anything beyond, hello-please-thank you, Thai.
? Seven, bring as much film as is humanly possible to carry! Every corner we turned held a new mesmerizing photography subject. In my opinion, when compared to Mexico, Hawaii, Morocco and the Czech Republic, Thailand is more photogenic.
And on that note, if a picture truly is worth a 1,000 words then I have a 350,000 word testament to how much we enjoyed the trip on our Webshots site (community.webshots.com/user/ehazard1). Thailand starts on page 2, after our previous trips. As of right now, the album is only about 90% finished, but if I put it off any later, I am afraid I won?t get it out.
Thanks again to everyone that stuck with me through the trip report posting process. With this, I am officially finished with my report. Enjoy!
Thanks everyone for the kind words, constructive criticisms and tips for future planning. Thailand is an amazing, fascinating country is a dynamic and enthralling part of the world; we will be back sooner rather than later. High on our list is Chang Mai, it really is too bad we did not pick that part up on this trip, but our time constraints simply would not allow for it. As for other nations, I am intrigued by Laos and Cambodia and would definitely like to see both of those countries before they are further ?discovered.? China and Vietnam are also two lands high on the list, although I have decided to do those two as two separate complete trips. I also would like to spend some time in Malaysia and Indonesia island hopping.
As for Burma, I have decided not to visit that nation until the military junta is replaced with a more civilized regime. I understand that this is a tenuous decision and that there are people on both sides of the fence, but after reading up on the situation, this is the conclusion both LaNita and I came to. Feel free to weigh in on my opinion, maybe I am missing something, but I just can?t justify spending my tourist dollars, and ostensibly supporting the current regime, in that nation at the moment.
Since we have been back, we have been asked no less than 10 times where we are headed next. At this moment, it is hard to say. LaNita is lobbying hard for an in depth stay in and around Paris. I am intrigued by Mexico?s Yucatan (ex-Cancun and the like) and Western Belize. Then again, if I really want to be adventurous, I have heard wonderful things about Cartagena, Columbia and would love an opportunity to see this amazing town. For now, I think our next destination will depend primarily on where we can get the best deal.
To answer a few points brought up in the post-trip report era. I would most definitely fly China Air again (not to be confused with Air China, an airline I have not flown)! I was extremely impressed with the new fleet of planes and it was on the China Air flights that we have received the best service in riding in coach of all the places we have gone. As an added bonus, it seems as though this airline is often associated with some of the cheaper flights to Asia, so it makes it a very reasonable and economical option.
The fate of our Lonely Planet book was decided shortly after finishing the meat of our report. Now, in all fairness, we were using the 9th edition, and I see now that a 10th edition has been published, so perhaps some of the confusion has been cleared up. However, to ensure our version did not wind up in the wrong hands, we offered it up to the fireplace gods, were it went up like it was made out of children?s toys. Farewell misguided travel book.
Overall, despite the negative bent my report took at times, we really enjoyed our Thailand trip, and got out of it all that we had hoped. For anyone contemplating a trip to the former Siam, I say go in a heartbeat; it is not to be missed. Some random suggestions though:
? One, if you are planning on going to Phuket, spend at least two nights in the Phi Phi islands, because you will be sorry if you don?t. MikeBuckley was dead on, for what you spend on a day tour by speedboat, you can get a lot more bang for your Baht.
? Two, spend a full day in Ayuthaya. Be it by boat tour, train, private car, you name it, that site is worth a full day.
? Three, take advantage of private car and driver whenever possible, they are some cheap you can?t afford not to. I have a feeling if we had enlisted the aid of Ratt on our ?bad day? we would have had a much more enjoyable experience, and at 200 Baht an hour (roughly $5), how can you not?
? Four, if you really want to see the country, opt for the train or bus and forgo air transit. Of course, time constraints will often make flying the only option, but I left wishing we had taken another mode of transport to Phuket, taking a couple of days to get ourselves there.
? Five, make sure you select a centrally located hotel in Bangkok! Learn from our mistake on this one, you will be sorry if you end up staying on the outer fringe of the colossal city.
? Six, while it is also fun to try and learn some of the langauge wherever you go, English is pretty widely spoke in the Thailand that we visited. Unless you are like me, and think that most of the fun is in the pre-trip planning, I would not worry if you do not pick up anything beyond, hello-please-thank you, Thai.
? Seven, bring as much film as is humanly possible to carry! Every corner we turned held a new mesmerizing photography subject. In my opinion, when compared to Mexico, Hawaii, Morocco and the Czech Republic, Thailand is more photogenic.
And on that note, if a picture truly is worth a 1,000 words then I have a 350,000 word testament to how much we enjoyed the trip on our Webshots site (community.webshots.com/user/ehazard1). Thailand starts on page 2, after our previous trips. As of right now, the album is only about 90% finished, but if I put it off any later, I am afraid I won?t get it out.
Thanks again to everyone that stuck with me through the trip report posting process. With this, I am officially finished with my report. Enjoy!
Feb 26th, 2004, 11:50 AM
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travelbear........
If you choose too go too Cartagena try going durring Carnival, from Cartagena you can take a bus too Baranquilla where the second biggest Carnival in latin america is held behind the BIG BOY in Rio.
I havn't been there for about 15 years, but knowing how the rest of Colombian cities has grown. im pritty sure everything I remeber is pritty useless.
I mention the above cuz I never check out fodors latin ameican forum. anyways have fun where ever ya go
If you choose too go too Cartagena try going durring Carnival, from Cartagena you can take a bus too Baranquilla where the second biggest Carnival in latin america is held behind the BIG BOY in Rio.
I havn't been there for about 15 years, but knowing how the rest of Colombian cities has grown. im pritty sure everything I remeber is pritty useless.
I mention the above cuz I never check out fodors latin ameican forum. anyways have fun where ever ya go
Feb 26th, 2004, 04:57 PM
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again a great report....thailand is the best, simply the best...
on myanmar...while you are supporting the regime to some degree, you are not supporting it much....the place is so interesting that it is best seen now...now before capitalism and greed takes over...plus the people can only see hope if they meet and talk to free people...
on myanmar...while you are supporting the regime to some degree, you are not supporting it much....the place is so interesting that it is best seen now...now before capitalism and greed takes over...plus the people can only see hope if they meet and talk to free people...
Feb 28th, 2004, 01:23 AM
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Deat travelbear-As I am leaving for Thailand for the first time, I found your travel report to say the least enlightening.If you are not yet a commercial writer, you should consider entering the biz.I have learned from your report both what to do and what not to do.James, Kathy and Rmk, I will probabably be posting questions over the next 31/2 wks.When I return, I will attempt to return the favor of giving the help you all gave me.Where is the best place to change $ to Baht? Great work.I hope to see you Orgy in Thailand.
