tripplanner001

We’re raring to return to Japan as it’s been 11 years since we were there. We had plans to visit in 2020, but were scuttled by the pandemic as with so many of us. What drew us into Japan on our previous trip are the unique culture, history, gardens, temples, food, and transportation.

We thought about visiting this coming May but it is looking unlikely. Our next opportunity will be three weeks in late fall, comprising of the last two weeks of November and the first week of December.

Places of interest include Tokyo, the Japanese Alps, Kanazawa, Takayama, Kyoto, Okayama / Himeji, Miyajima, Hagi, Matsue, and Kyushu. With three weeks, we will not be trying to do it all.

It seems like mid- to late-November is too late for day hikes in the Japanese Alps, at least not without hiking in snow. Are there places in Japan where snow-free day hikes would be possible this time of year?

I understand that it is generally colder and possibly wetter this time of year (although weather is hard to predict), especially along the coast of the Sea of Japan. Would the trees and gardens in Kanazawa and Takayama be bare by late November? And Matsue by early December? Just wondering if it may make more sense to save these areas for a visit at a different time of year.

On the plus side, we are aware of the foliage opportunities. Any favorite places to view koyo that may not be as crowded as Tokyo or Kyoto?

Interested in other suggestions you may have for Japan for this time of year.

Thanks.

mrwunrfl

I made a return (4th?) visit to Kanazawa in mid-November 2019 for two main reasons: it was just after the start of crab season in the Nihon Kai, and to visit the garden/castle. I ate well. Kenrokuen was interesting because they were in the process of tying up the trees for the winter. I had noticed trees like that in the city on a previous visit (right outside the window of a traditional restaurant - a reminder that you are in Kanazaw as it is one of the symbols of the city).

I suppose the trees would be all set by the time you got there and it being just past a peak season there should be fewer tourists. Consider a visit there and heading up to Shirakawago for an overnight in a gassho-zukuri. I did that and was the only guest at Koemon - they had snow boots available for guests (which fit and were necessary in early January.

One thing about bare trees is that they give you a better view of the land. IDK how often, in various places in the world, where I was at a viewpoint and wishing they had cut down the trees i was looking at so that I could see the valley, or whatever, kind of half-joking).

I think I would avoid San-In coast at that time (i.e. Matsue - Hagi) becausae of weather, but San-yo side would be good.

You would find what you are looking for in Kyushu (you could even go to an all-night kagura performance at a Takachiho farmhouse at that time (you could, not me ).

mrwunrfl

Here is what I was referring to: Yukitsuri - Wikipedia

(my longer post is in moderation, but I think it will appear before this)

tripplanner001

Thank you mrwunrfl. Sounds like Kanazawa will be alright in mid-November, and the bonus of crab no less! I encountered yukitsuri in Kyoto as we were there in February; didn't know what its purpose was until later. Have you had experiences with Takayama in mid-November? Will check out Kyushu too.

progol

We are planning almost 4 weeks in Japan this fall, though we will be there from mid-October to mid-November. I’ll be following your planning and I’ll be planning shortly - just after we return from a trip to Mexico.

mrwunrfl

Pretty sure I have visited Takayama only in the spring. I did have a ticket to fly into Toyama one November from where I planned to take the train up to Takayama, but figured it would be too cold, so I changed it to KIX. Takayama is pretty flat and easily bike/walkable. There is a hill to get to the Hida no Sato (I took the bus) just outside of town. There is a temple path on the east edge of town. I think it is more of a walk than a hike. There is a town about 10 miles north of Takayama that might be a worthy hike as it supposed to be an undiscovered low-key version of Takayama, but IDK. It is Hidafurukawa.

Checking your wish-list again, I see
Okayama / Himeji, Miyajima - which is more/less Sanyo side, of course. Sanyo - think sunny.

You did mention Kyushu. There is some hiking near Kirishima, fairly serious I think. Kirishima Plateau, IIRC. Of course, you could just go to japan-guide and search for hiking. Unzen and Shimabara are still on my wish list as are the pottery towns just south of my fave Japanese city, Fukuoka.

tripplanner001

Progol, enjoy your time in Mexico. Are you going to Mexico City or a resort? I loved Mexico City, but have not ventured anywhere else in the country. Mid-October to mid-November should optimal for Japan. If I could push my trip earlier, I would too, but the earliest would be around Nov. 10.

mrwunrfl, thank you again. I will take a look at the places you suggest. I've asked this question over at japan-guide too. Curious as to what makes Fukuoka your favorite?

progol

tripplanner, we are going to Oaxaca and Mexico City and we’re very excited. I did find your report on Mexico City and am finding it helpful as well.

From what I’m reading, the time period you’re traveling to Japan will give you a chance to find the peak color in places. That should be wonderful.

tripplanner001

Thanks progol. The foliage should be good in a couple of places for sure. I would expect it will be in the Japanese Alps, in Tohoku, and parts of the Sea of Japan side for your time frame.

mrwunrfl

Fukuoka has big city stuff but is reasonable sized and not as intense.I could live there.

mrwunrfl

my 2019 visit to Kanazawa was aroind the 18th
For October, I would try to get to Kakunodate during peak color, probably stay at that place next to the station again.

mrwunrfl

>> last two weeks of November and ...

Oh, so Miyajima, maybe staying at Momiji-so in Momijidani.
maples

tripplanner001

Thanks again mrwunrfl.

tripplanner001

Coming back to this, here's my current working itinerary:

Tokyo, 6 nights, including day trips to Nikko and Kamakura
Kanazawa, 2 nights
Takayama, 2 nights
Kyoto, 5 nights
Kurashiki, 2 nights
Miyajima, 1-2 nights

I have room for one more place and am thinking about Lake Biwa, Izu, or someplace on Shikoku (Iya Valley and Kochi?). Would any of these be more optimal towards the end of November?

Thanks.

burta

I went to Kanazawa and Takayama (with a stop in Shirakawa-go in between) in the same time frame that you are planning. Both Kanazawa and Takayama were snow free. The fall foliage period was already over. Kenrokuen was lovely, and the yukitsuri were already up. It was quite picturesque. The only snow we encountered was in Shirakawa-go and the Okuhida area, where we took the double decker ropeway cars into the mountains (this was Japan's first, and worth the trip). If rooms had been available, we would have stayed at least one night at an onsen in Okuhida (Kakurean Hidaji was highly recommended). All areas were a little less crowded, and it was a very easy trip, both in terms of navigating the towns and transportation between areas.

tripplanner001

Coming back to this thread after some more research and configuration. The current iteration is:

Fly into Tokyo, 4 nights, including a day trip to Kamakura
Train to Kanazawa, 3 nights
Bus to Takayama, 3 nights, stopping in Shirakawago on the way (also day trip to Kamikochi or Shin-Hokata, weather permitting)
Train to Ise, 2 nights, stopping in Nagoya on the way
Train to Kyoto, 4-5 nights
Train to Kurashiki / Okayama, 2 nights, stopping in Himeji on the way
Train and ferry to Miyajima, 1-2 nights, stopping in Hiroshima on the way
Train and ferry to Naoshima, 1-2 nights (we may drop this for 5 nights in Kyoto and 2 nights on Miyajima)

Trying to strike a balance between big cities and smaller towns, urban with some time outdoors, traditional versus modern, etc.

Would you make any logical changes to this? Thanks.

mrwunrfl

And then what? (the end of your itinerary has you on Naoshima or Miyajima)

Your itinerary looks good, logical, nothing wrong with it.

>> Train to Ise, 2 nights, stopping in Nagoya on the way
Oh, I like that. The first part. I visited Ise Jingu from Nagoya on a day trip. It is pretty cool. I remember thinking that I could have spent more time in the area. IDR why I thought that. Maybe it was late realization that there was more to see and do in the area or that I found the area beautiful. Likely both.

The second part, stopping in Nagoya, is ok, but why? (the reason is not obvious like your other stops). I spent a few nights there because that was where I arrived in Japan and was heading to Takayama for the festival. The castle is not worth stopping on the way to Ise.

Not far from Nagoya is Inuyama. The castle It is a gem and the garden/ochaya is a nice visit. I did not visit Meiji Mura.
Inuyama Travel Guide - What to do in Inuyama City (japan-guide.com)

Found this page about Gifu-ken
Gifu Prefecture Travel Guide (japan-guide.com)
I was looking for something about Gifu castle. Was surprised to see that there were 6 destinations mentioned but none of them are the city or castle that bear the name of the prefecture. The castle is small and a reconstruction. It is not far from a railway station (there are two in Gifu-shi). What I liked was the ropeway needed to get there and then there was a bit of a hike uphill (didn't like) to the castle. There would be great views up there on a nice day.

You could look at the "Present day" and following sections of the wiki.
Gifu Castle - Wikipedia
I visited there from from the Meitetsu station. I think JR Gifu station is farther away, but it is on the Takayama Line that you will be using on your way south. This, rather than Nagoya would be a better stop on the way (depending on your interest in Nagoya). But, any stop has to be weighed as to whether it takes more time than you would want to take from following your interest in Ise. (i.e. be sure not to short-change Ise like I did)

mrwunrfl

>> Train and ferry to Naoshima, 1-2 nights (we may drop this for 5 nights in Kyoto and 2 nights on Miyajima)

Dropping Naoshima makes sense to me given the fact that I am not interested in visitng there. Am not a fan of Kyoto and would not add to it, I think that two nights on Miyajima is one too many if that means zero nights in Hiroshima (i.e. 1 and 1 would be better, imo).

But this post is all IMHO and YMMV.

tripplanner001

Thank you yet again mrwunrfl. We’re looking at Nagoya for Osu Kannon Temple and the Maglev Museum.

In terms of Hiroshima / Miyajima, we’re aiming to visit one from the other so that we are not moving hotels so much - are we better off staying in Hiroshima?

mrwunrfl

¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Your temple stop in Nagoya made me think of a stop in Nagano otw to Kanazawa: Zenkoji Temple - Nagano Travel (japan-guide.com)