| Peter Neville-Hadley |
Dec 19th, 2001 08:55 PM |
I've stayed twice at the Park Hyatt. It occupies the top few floors of three fused towers in the Shinjuku district, a ten-minute walk from Shinjuku station (or there are shuttle buses and taxis). The views from the rooms are fabulous, and in January, if you're on the right side, you'll even have a chance of seeing Fuji.<BR><BR>The hotel is remarkably discreet, and something of its flavour can be given simply be describing the process of getting from the entrance to reception. You are taken along a corridor past wall-mounted sculptures to an elevator which takes you to the 43rd (I think) floor, where you emerge into a thicket of uplit bamboo in a glass-roofed space on top of one of the towers. You are then led down a further corridor, past a restaurant adorned with giant photos of European cafes. You turn right and left into a substantial library, and right again into someone's sitting room. This is, in fact, reception.<BR><BR>From there the hotel is an elaborate vertical maze, with different elevators providing access to the rooms, to an excellent restaurant with live jazz on top of another tower, and another to a swimming pool and fitness centre on top of the third. The rooms are quite large (the largest standard rooms in Tokyo, in fact), but the public spaces are intimate and cosy, and there's interesting art lining the corridors and in the rooms. It's best to get a corner room if you can, since the corner will be fitted with a bath from which you can enjoy Tokyo Bay or Fuji, weather permitting.<BR><BR>However, if you don't already have bookings, you may need to forget it. The hotel's occupancy rate is on average, in the mid-90%, and room rates are around US$400.<BR><BR>My favourite budget restaurants in Tokyo are all isakaya-style--picture menus over a variety of Japanese and Western snack dishes, consumed with large tankards of beer or big glasses of shochu mixed with grapefruit, for instance. The chain Tengu is all over Tokyo, and you could try one branch of that--any hotel reception will be able to get them to fax you a map of the nearest location, or find it for you on the Web and print it out. You'll be seated at large tables with office workers celebrating their release from work, and often making a night of it, gradually ordering a succession of dishes as they need them.<BR><BR>Actually, this isn't the *cheapest* but for pure entertainment value it's on of the best value for money. In back street Tokyo finding rice dishes such as katsudon for around US$4 is easy. Or there's Japan's own favourite, kariraisu (curry-rice). Dishes are often recreated in plastic in windows of cheaper restaurants with prices clearly marked.<BR><BR>And there's always McDonald's, KFC, etc. etc. They're all there.<BR><BR>Peter N-H<BR> http://members.axion.net/~pnh/China.html
|