Hi sdtravels! Thanks for your detailed reply. I just happened to be on-line when your response showed up. I noticed the same thing about airfare creeping up within the last week or two before the actual flight so I am inclined to go ahead and book now as I need to fly on a specific date that's about 3 weeks from now. For the flights you booked on ctrip while you were still in the U.S. did you pay a surcharge? Also, did you just get an e-mail that served as an e-ticket for those flights? I emailed ctrip to inquire about this but haven't heard back so would appreciate your further help here.
I hadn't heard of or seen the Periplus maps. I'll defintely check them at my local bookstores or order via Amazon.
Thanks so much!

Great. Yes, there is a fee to buy from ctrip. The extra cost is identified on the reservation screen. I think it was about $15 if I remember. You don't need an email. All you do is present your passport at the ticket counter. I never got an email from ctrip either but the "my trips" section will show the reservation completed. I got nervous and called ctrip when I didn't get the first email and that's what they told me. We didn't have any problems.

Sdtravels - your report has been so helpful and I've taken lots of notes. Now I just have to convince my husband to take another Asian vacation. It would be our 3rd Asian trip back to back (Thailand/Cambodia & Vietnam) and he may want a year off. Have you been elsewhere in Asia and if so, how did this trip compare to your other trips?

Thank you! I have not been anywhere else in Asia. Maybe some time in the future. Reading about it on this forum makes it sound so appealing. You will really enjoy China though.