Nywoman in Cambodia
 

By mistake I added this to my Vietnam posts so here it comes again.

Arriving in Cambodia and acquiring a new son.

We depart from the floating hotel around 9 am to cross the border into Cambodia, it is a fairly short boat ride and the boat docks on a mud bank.
Time to move the luggage once again, there are young boys who will do it for you and then say �money� as if you weren�t going to tip anyway. The guide has all of our passports and the $22 fee which is $2 more than the actual cost. The whole trip was arranged through Delta Adventures.

We wait around and after awhile take a walk in this border town, if we hadn�t seen and encountered poverty and squalor before, here it was spread out for us to see in all its misery. After an hour we are getting antsy, the guide returns with our passports but a Frenchman whose passport has yellowed, is being questioned exhaustively, finally he is permitted to enter. We change boats and interestingly enough once we have crossed the border the landscape changes.
Cambodia is actually prettier with rice field along the banks of the river.

Then it is time once again to schlep luggage off the boat onto a bus, where we get a non-stop patter and spiel about the various guesthouses to stay in. If the boat and bus were any indication of the quality of the guesthouses we vowed to stay clear of them. We arrive finally in Phnom Penh and are surrounded by Tuk-Tuks. Somehow we manage to break free and thanks to my gallant companions my luggage is taken care of. We end up at the Spring Guesthouse, where I go for broke and pay $14 with A/C, without it is $9. We all meet 30 minutes later and eat at Mama�s which is just up the street and apparently a popular place. The food was good the owner very amiable and his children totally adorable.

Since it was already quite late we all decide to explore the nightlife, or at least go for drinks. The Green Vespa is a recommended place, 5 of us take a Tuk-Tuk
Across the river and arrive to a totally empty bar. Drinks were very cheap but the bartender was really obnoxious and unpleasant, a total blacklist for me.

The next day I went to the Genocide museum, and made it in time for the documentary movie. The movie is very well made, there are some scenes where an artist who had been incarcerated shows one of the guards some of his paintings and asks the guard if they are realistic. The guard also talks about his experiences. As I walk around I come to a room where there are photographs and stories of people who were Khmer Rouge. There is also some text that talks about the therapy, and research that has been given to the victims, but none to the perpetrators. By now I have seen enough and have no desire to go to the killing fields.

I hail a Tuk-Tuk to take me shopping. I had read about a jeweler whose rubies were very reasonable. My daughter wanted jewelry, so I thought good idea let�s check this out. Well the author�s concept of reasonable and mine were not quite in accordance. At least it gave me an opportunity to walk around, since I was very close to Independence Monument and an interesting temple decided to explore. First things first, time for lunch, there was a lovely restaurant with an outdoor area. I ordered the spicy Thai Salad with shrimps, this was S P I C Y my mouth was on fire and the Lassi I had ordered did nothing to put it out. Now I knew if it says spicy on the menu they mean it.

I wandered off into the temple area where obviously a party had taken place the night before, there were people sleeping all over the floor, dishes were being washed and chairs were still covered with silk coverings. Am not sure if there had been a Buddhist festival or a funeral, sometimes it is hard to distinguish the two.
It was time to go to the Royal Palace, walking down Norodom Boulevard you pass many of the embassies. This part of town is very scenic with large boulevards, grassy plots and lovely plantings. It is hard to imagine that you are in a very poor country. The palace is quite magnificent, as are the grounds. It was rebuilt in 1866 and there are several buildings including the Pavilion of Napoleon III. As I wander around I meet quite a few monks in their saffron robes I take their pictures as they whip out their digital cameras to take mine, they all seem to speak English and are very approachable.

As I enter the Silver Pagoda, so called because of the sterling silver floor tiles, it is also called the Pagoda of the Emerald Buddha. There were so many golden buddahs encrusted with diamonds and precious stones that I was flabbergasted.
As I was walking around I encountered yet another monk and we struck up a conversation. He told me that none of the diamonds were real, they had been replaced many years ago. We then got into a conversation on Buddhism, of which I am very ignorant, he explained that in Asia there are several different kinds of Buddhism, in Cambodia they practice Theravada. We then spent several hours walking around the grounds, having recently read �Eat, Pray and Love� I wanted to know if he had problems meditating at times, it seemed not. We also discussed my reluctance to go to the killing fields, and he asked me what my inner fears were, which of course I knew what they were.

I was then invited to see his temple which was very close by, as we leave a street urchin with her brother on her hip, approaches me for money and as is my habit I said no, but I will feed you. So off we wandered to find some food, we came to a shack were the children bought rice and a hot dog with ketchup, while the rats ran around. As she sat down to eat, she got up very suddenly and said �Thank you� in such a gracious way, that I got teary eyed. We then proceeded on to the Temple where I was to see the holy water. An older man opened up the shrine and dipped what looked like twigs tied together into the water where a lotus flower was floating. He then sprinkled me in what almost looked like Catholic Benediction movements, while chanting something, at the end he poured water into my hands that I then patted my hair with. By now it was getting late and I had to get back. So I said my goodbyes, we exchanged cards, and that was when the surprise came, the monk was the executive director of the Temple. He had dispensed his monks out for the day to talk to tourists and see if they could get volunteers to come and teach at the school he has established.
www.rspngo.org. It seems that Cambodia�s social system would not exist without the monks and their good works at least that is what the newspaper said.
I have since received e-mail from him and it turns out that he adopted me as his �Good mom� which is rather nice.

That night 5 of us went out for dinner to a Khmer Restaurant, then it was time to go clubbing. Remember I am with people in their 30�s. We started out at a club on a boat that was very quiet, don�t remember the name, we ended up at �Heart of Darkness� which was an experience in itself. I counted 45+ prostitutes one of the bouncers said there were 100+. The place was packed and the music rocked, I have not danced this much in years, my last two rounds of drinks were club sodas, and I couldn�t understand feeling that tired next morning, forgot that I sampled everybody else�s Mojitos, we finally called it a night around 3 am.

What a day in contrasts, I was really sorry to have to leave the next day for Siem Reap, we all agreed that it Phnom Penh is a city to linger in and it deserves more than a day or two. The others decided to stay on for an extra day and we would meet up later in the week.

Took a minibus to Siem Reap and am met by the driver as arranged and taken to Angkor Holiday my home for next few days. After I had settled in I wanted to go find Samot the fabled restaurant. Nobody had heard of the Alley, it was not marked on the hotel�s map and the Tuk Tuk driver did not know where it was. We proceed down to the area, me thinking I would find it but no such luck. I then ask for a Cambodian restaurant that is not touristy, he takes me to Borey Sovann Restaurant where all the tour groups eat. I have a less than mediocre Chicken Curry and return to my hotel. Am picked up at 8 am next morning by my guide and we go to Angkor Wat. Poor guy he didn�t get to do much guiding since I spent most of the morning in the bathroom, fortunately the attendant had some Imodium which really helped. I had found the telephone number of Samat in the phone book and we tried to call them, only to be told that the service had been discontinued. So I figured the restaurant is closed and that was why I stopped looking for it.
That night I went to Foreign Correspondents Club and ended up sitting with another New Yorker who was stranded because of the airport shutdown in Bangkok. We are sitting next to the guitar player, who was German and had been drifting around the world for many, many years. He invited us to come to Dead Fish Tower the next night where he was playing. It seemed like an excellent idea so that�s where we met up again. It turned out it was a fund raiser for an orphanage, one of the volunteers an Australian girl stood up and made a public plea for funds. You could literally hear her knees knocking from fright and she sat down as quickly as she could. I knew that she was not going to get any money this way, I borrowed Peter�s hat and did the rounds. We collected $175 which would buy a generator, but when I saw the list of what was needed I felt like crying. Such simple things that we take for granted, like warm blankets and clothing. Pens and note books, a dry toilet. The needs are endless.

To be continued

Excellent stuff Ny - I'm really enjoying this. You're a very intrepid traveller indeed. My compliments. I'm really looking forward to hearing what you thought of Samot. Anything is possible. I see he's already made it as difficult as possible to eat there. lol.

Dogster this one is for you, and for the purposes of this forum I will end my trip report with my experience, unfortunately the only one, at Samot.

Charlotte the totally charming young French woman I had met together with her
Husband on the Mekong river Cruise and I were walking in SR and come across the Alley, Had never noticed or seen it before, talk about being oblivious. We walk down and see an unmarked restaurant with a western man inside. I ask him what had happened to Samot and he says in his very French accent “zis is Samot”. Wait a minute, the phone has been disconnected something is weird.

I explain my experience and he goes very theatrical, this is impossible, how can that be etc. etc. He declares that he owes me one and I say fine, we will come here for dinner tonight and all you have to do is create a meal for us. Of course that is what he will do, yeah right.

6.30 comes along and I enter the restaurant. He seem not to have a clue who I am, or that we have a reservation. The others arrive, and we order wine, does not have a full bottle of what we want but we start with a glass each, then go on to something else. There is a French woman a former restaurateur who is helping out, until her husband arrives from France in a few months, and they will then open an eating place in SR. I tell her that I used to own a restaurant in NYC, which Patrick then chimes in that it is his ultimate dream.

I am now acknowledged, and then he gives us some bizarre explanation of the young girls having used the phone and rung up a large bill. The staff consists of two very young and inexperienced Vietnamese girls, Patrick, proprietor, waiter, bartender and chef, and then there is Madame who looks completely lost.


When the handwritten menu is explained she tries to chime in on some dish and is instantly told not to interfere. Wonder how long she will be willing to help out?

We tried to put ourselves at the mercy of the chef but it only partially worked, the first course, delicious raw scallops and a fish carpaccio was his invention then and there. The main course which was risotto was also good. We had ordered dessert but since my car was picking me up at 9 pm to go to the airport we had to cancel it.

I was truly sorry that I only discovered Samot on my last day, and even sorrier that I hadn’t reread your description. What a splendid ending it was to a very splendid trip.

Yup, sounds like the Samot I know so well. Lol lol lol - a nine p.m. car? No one could possibly get out there before eleven under the best of circumstances. Still, you had a glimpse and I'm delighted you've had that very particular experience. It's uniquely hopeless, I think - ahh, but that food can be good eh? Now you read my report with FULL understanding. lol.

Ahh, well this has come to an end. What an excellent adventure! Bravo for maintaining this really splendid report. I think you had a great time. Yup, a few ups and downers - s'O.K. - great stuff NY!

Now start planning the next one.

Your report has so captured what I loved about Cambodia -- you can have some really unique experiences and meet some amazing people in a very short period of time. I so wish we had time for Phnom Pehn. So the "Heart" is still there -- and it sounds as though, as touristed as SR has become it still has plenty off the beaten path to offer.
I'll read through your other posts but are there any other restaurant suggestions -- my hsb cooks in NY -- digression but what neighborhood was your restaurant in?

Hi Jenscar,
My restaurant though sold, is still there, it is in Hell's Kitchen. It is called Market Cafe on 9th Ave, have no idea what it is like now. Where does your husband cook?

What other restaurant recommendations would you like and where?

Yes, I was very taken by your discovery of Phnom Penh. When I first went there I was having a genocide attack and couldn't see past the slaughter. I hated it. Then I discovered it was a whole lot more. So I'm glad you liked it.

It's not just the cities, of course, its the unconscious baggage we carry with us on the road. This, for me at least, is the real test of travel - to see just how much I can leave behind - to find my way to 'the moment'.

That's where you were Ny, everywhere you went. You were 'in the moment'. In a funny way, WHERE you were doesn't matter. You were IN the most elusive, special place of all - in the moment.

Which of course is the best place you can possibly go.

Dogster,

You have amazing insights, yes you are right I was in the moment and it wasn't about me, which is why I only had one down day. I loved every day and being the me that was on the road.

Writing about the trip as it unfolded helped, and am discovering that I am continuing being that way here in NYC as well. Amazing experiences even here all the time.

It was a most incredible trip.

I have many thoughts on the subject. You know where to reach me if you would like to continue this conversation.

Yes, I knew you'd understand. AND you added the secret coda:

'it wasn't about me...'

Very wise. This is the trick.

Now, why is it that such simplicity had taken me 59 grisly years to learn? Until the scales fell from my eyes I think all my travels were exclusively around a fascinating country - called 'The Land of Dogster'.

Alas, The Land of Dogster had borders, passport control and heavy customs. It took a while to escape.
I'm glad I did. Since then life has been fine.

And writing about it, knowing that someone will read it, while you go add a whole new eye to the proceedings, doesn't it? The only thing you didn't do in your report was make the jump into dialogue. You teetered on the edge a few times.. heh, but never jumped. You could do that really well.

There is another process that I've discovered, which is to write it up afterwards and discover the unspoken, unnoticed links between my adventures. Or research it afterwards, and discover what I never knew while I was there. I love that.

And, for me in a funny way, the worse it is, the more horrific my companions the more material I get for my little stories. It's a total win/win situation.

I'm glad to see it's paying off back at home. I haven't made that jump. I just want to leave again.

Dogster writes" The only thing you didn't do in your report was make the jump into dialogue. You teetered on the edge a few times.. heh, but never jumped. You could do that really well."

Did you mean I should have done more dialogue?

Afraid that dialogue is much more your style of writing. At the nightclub a German with two little young doozies on his arms corners me and starts to tell me how rotten and bad the U.S.A. is, poor thing didn't know who he was dealing with. I counterattack and tell him that without the Marshall plan and the good ole U.S.A. Germany would be nothing, he was probably way too young to even know what I was talking about. Then for good measure I added "Du bist ein Schwein" He had no retort.

I know that you could make that into a whole episode describing his wurstlike face and swaggering stance.

You see I can not even make this inte a dialogue e.g. he stopped me in my tracks and started to attack the USA.............

Lol - well don't stress about the dialogue. It either comes - or it doesn't.

But there's no 'should have's' in any of this... lol. I wouldn't presume.

I just got interested in the Forums as a way to prepare for a trip to China in 2011. I found your trip reports and was mesmerized by them. I was enjoying your Cambodian experience and looking forward to the rest of your journey but could not find anything after "to be continued". It was like discovering the book you have been reading is missing the last chapter. Have you written about it elsewhere? Many thanks for your energy and many useful tips.