thursdaysd

Yes, I don't remember finding much to do in Matsumoto either, although I thought it was a nice town and I ate rather well. I also upgraded my hotel for part of my stay as I had a bad one in Kochi and felt I needed a little pampering, and that was pleasant. By that time I had had enough of climbing stairs inside castles, so I just admired the outside.

I took the ferry to Hiroshima and the train on to Fukuoka. Hope you have/had a better arrival there than I did - a mammoth sinkhole had opened right in front of the station. Power was out to half the station and I couldn't stay in my hotel.

Nywoman

Thursday
Am flying and staying in an Airbnb.
Hopefully no sinkholes.

mrwunrfl

How did you like Dogo Onsen?

You might like a seafood restaurant in Fukuoka named Chikae.

Nywoman

mrwunrfl, Dogo Onsen I liked it, kind of harmless place. The main Onsen looked interesting but I wasn't in the mood. Will go to the one in the hotel before I leave. Thanks for the recommendation will definitively try.

thursdaysd

I had absolutely delicious wagyu beef at a reasonable price at Budo-en in Fukuoka - 3-1 Shimokawabatamachi, Hakata-ku | 1F Hakata Riverain Mall. My hotel got me a reservation for one person for a Saturday night, and since it is a Korean-style BBQ place designed for groups I though that was very good of them.

kalihiwai2

We really enjoyed Fukuoka
The Hakata Machiya Home Folk Museum was interesting, when we were there a man was working a loom on a special type of local weaving.

Dazaifu and the Kyushu National museum are a short hop.

We also used Fukuoka for a base for a day trip to Arita.

A walk through Nakasu at night was scenic with lights on the river and the outside Yatai stalls. A definite night life party atmosphere.

Don't know if you're interested in baseball but we caught a Hawks game there that was exciting

For whats on now Fukuoka Now is a good resource
http://www.fukuoka-now.com/en/

Thanks for the detailed reports we're taking notes for our next trip

Boveney

thursdaysd: Matsuyama in Shikoku, not Matsumoto in the alps, is the town covered in this very interesting TR. I point this out as Matsumoto is one of my favourite places and I am quick to leap to its defense!

thursdaysd

Ooops - I meant Matsuyama. Hard time finding a ferry from Matsumoto...

Nywoman

This is my dilemma, so much to see and do. I have another 4 days with no reservations, before I have to fly out of Fukuoka for Taiwan on the 13th.

I had thought of going to Nagasaki for those days and make some side trips. Have come to the conclusion that I feel better when I don't pack and unpack too often.

I am originally Swedish and have never quite understood baseball, though my children have tried to explain to me on numerous occasions. Of course I do get caught up in the subway series but since the Yankees are out!!!! Will however if possible try to catch a Sumo wrestling game.

Thanks for all the suggestions. Tomorrow is the Karatsu Matsuri, as well as a national holiday. Thursday is the balloon festival in Saga, which I will try to book my train tickets as soon as I arrive today as was suggested.

jacketwatch

Am watching game 7 now Astros vs. Dodgers. I love baseball but grew up with it. When we were in Tokyo 3 yrs. ago we went to see a Japanese pro game. Lots of fun, great fans. I hope to go back and see a sumo match one day and the robot show too.

Nywoman

Fukuoka
As I leave the hotel I take a picture of the Japanese name for realization machine, but it did not take, my phone camera does not always cooperate. I had asked a gentleman who said it had to do with money, but it was not an ATM.

Flew Japan Airlines from Matsuyama to Fukuoka, probably the most uncomfortable seats ever, fortunately it was a short flight. From the airport to the AirBnB it was a fairly short ride by subway.
Shortly after my arrival this tall guy walks in, he was the other guest. I ask him where he is from and he says Sweden, I answer in Swedish, he doesn’t listen to what I said it so he repeats what he said and finally the penny drops. It turns out that he grew up 1 ½ blocks from where I grew up in Stockholm. Though the age difference is probably 55 years we had such similar memories. It was very nice, he is teaching English in Soeul and hopefully we will hook up this weekend.

Am trying to finally keep to my schedule yesterday was the festival in Karatsu which I attended. There were 6 floats which were made in the late 1800’s though the festival is from the 1600’s. Managed to get to where the floats started and also acquired a five minute boyfriend. There were so many photos taken of us and the merriment was high. Walked along the parade route and then lost them. Did catch up eventually but the crowds were enormous so I sat down at a stand for a bite and something to drink.
It may be a historic festival, but food and drinks are what its all about as far as I can tell. A few carnival like games for children e.g. fishing for Goldfish.

As I am sitting there two women join my table, one of them speaks fairly good English, so she strikes up a conversation, the next thing I know we are progressing together. She informs me that they like to drink, am unable to deny a proclivity, so she steers us to a miniature beer garden where we each have a beer and they get something to eat. I am more than ready to leave, the crowd is enormous and my hips are bothering me, so they kindly take me to the station while they continue partying.

Get home to rest for a bit and do laundry, time to head out again and I search for a Yatai which is a small
food cart with seating. It exists as far as I know only in Fukuoka. I went to the closest area which is Tenjin
and sat down. Ordered Ramen and a beer, next thing this couple sits down next to me, they are from near Kyoto, as far as I can understand. Before the evening was over I now have a standing invitation to come visit. How can you not love a country where things like this happens?

Get up early next morning to go to Saga for the balloon festival, get there, and it is cancelled too windy. This explains the long line of people waiting for the return train. I walk around the fairgrounds because that is exactly what it looks like. More food than you can possibly eat, carnival games, and more food. I decide to go to Huis ten Bosch, because that is where the train says its going, it’s a Dutch themed park and where else am I going? The train stops at Arita, known for its porcelain, perfect, it was on my list of to dos so jump off. It’s Saturday and most places are closed I walk on and encounter a photographer, who is catching a photo of a rare train. He ends up driving me to the porcelain shopping mall, which is overwhelming. It didn’t seem very far from the station, but it was. When I asked which direction to walk another kindly soul drove me and my purchases there.

Somebody asked me if I don’t get lonely during the day, and honestly no. I seem to encounter people all the time who want to use their English. Coming back on the train there was a family and the wife wanted to know where I was staying, then she proceeded to tell me what to see and where to go. Which is not to say that there have been a few down moments, actually only one that I can think of now.
Time for bed as tomorrow is a toss up do I go to the LBGT parade or Yanagawa or the Japanese garden.
So many choices, fortunately have a few more days before Nagasaki.
Sayonara

Nywoman

Fukuoka continued
There were a few responses to my question and they were overwhelmingly for the LGBT parade.
Fortunately I didn’t pay attention but went to see Nanzoin Temple. This was another place with lots of stairs, unfortunately they didn’t lead anywhere, I kept on going up and up and a dead end. Down I went and tried another set of stairs same result. I was sorry I did not get to see the temple, but I got tired, the Buddha I had seen the original in Myanmar so didn’t care. Eventually I gave up and returned to the station, as I was about to cross the street this elderly woman was all atwitter, grabbed my arm and kept on pointing. I know that this is not what she said but to my untrained ears it sounded like “Korean shrine” all of a sudden these Sumo wrestlers appear. No wonder she was excited, one of them was Hakuho probably one of the greatest Sumo Wrestlers in recent times. I did get two great pictures and he shook my hand. Actually he shook everybody’s hand and it was exciting, especially to see the hero worship that people bestowed on him. We were only a handful there.

Got back to town in time for the parade, which had left as I arrived I saw the rear of it, but it was returning so I didn’t care. I think my friends and I had expected something like New York, but on a smaller scale. That was not the case, this was more like a community street fair in a park, with a somewhat gay theme. The 4 drag queens that were present all had their picture taken with me.They were all gorgeous and obviously had made an effort, there was a 6 foot+ Texas boy who had a show which he handed out flyers for, but I wasn’t interested. Had ordered a dish of fried chicken, which wasn’t quite ready, so I decided to walk around, one of the workers made a point of getting me so I could claim my meal. It was all very sweet. However not the photo-op that had been expected.

I had quite a long conversation with a woman who represented a group called Rainbow Cookies,
She said that there has been some progress, the mayor had cut a ribbon the night before and acknowledged the parade. It was also listed in the Tourist guide what to do in Fukuoka.

The next day I went to Yanagawa which is famous for its canals , and the pole driven canal boats.
I had bought my train ticket, canal drive and eventually lunch separately, however there is a combination ticket which is sold at Tenjin station for about $50 which would have saved me $5.
Actually Tenjin and Hakata stations have several deals that if you live by another station you are unable to avail yourself of. A one day unlimited subway ticket is 620yen for another 100 yen at those stations you get a two day unlimited pass. A regular ride is 200 yen.

Back to Yanagawa, the 1-hour canal ride was lovely, the boatman kept up a running commentary in Japanese and whenever we went under a bridge he sang songs, while we were doubled over so as not to hit our heads. As usual my travel karma was with me and my companions were a family from Hong Kong. The sister who was about my age lived there but her brother and sister-in-law lived in Toronto.
We ended up going to the famous eel restaurant, which they had coupons for, and I paid about $35 with a beer. Am not so sure that I thought the secret sauce for the eel was worth the secret. I have had better and tastier, then again who am I to argue with success. The restaurant is enormous, I would say several hundred seats spread out over a few buildings. It was a very nice experience all the same.

Despite the fact that I had 6 nights in a great AirBnB there are so many places I did not get to go to.
Really liked Fukuoka or Koka as the natives call it. My last lunch was at Chikae, a landmark with large pools containing fish centered around the diners. It was a very good meal and an interesting introduction to Alaskan Pollock spicy roe to eat with your rice.

jacketwatch

BTW I asked a Japanese gal I know about what a "realization" machine was and she thought it might be "relaxation" machine but lost in translation or in other words maybe one of those chairs that gives a massage.

Following!

Kavey

I am loving your report, love the highs and the few not quite worthwhile experiences, all enormously helpful and above all I love your many interactions with both Japanese people and fellow travellers. One of the wonders of a trip to Japan, I think.

mrwunrfl

Wonderful TR!

Did you like the mentai that you had at Chikae? I thought it was nasty.

You can say that you met the greatest sumo wrestler of all-time. If you show that photo of you and Hakuho to other Japanese you meet then you might some fun reactions. He's Mongolian.

https://www.japantimes.co.jp/sports/.../#.WgSEW4iQw2w

"On sheer numbers alone the yokozuna [Hakuho] deserves to be mentioned in the same breath as Wayne Gretzky, Michael Phelps and Babe Ruth."

The Kyushu Bassho, the sumo tournament in Fukuoka, starts on Nov 12.

Nywoman

Unfortunately did not have a photo taken with him, only of him.
According to Wikipedia he has or is about to apply for Japanese citizen ship.

Am going to be in Nagasaki until the morning of the 13th when I go back to Taiwan. Will miss the tournament.

I did like the mentaiko paste, probably because it reminds me of a smoked cod roe paste from Sweden, spicier than I am used to.

Am off to continue exploring Nagasaki, further TR follows.

Nywoman

Nagasaki
It was with mixed feelings that I left Fukuoka for Nagasaki. I really liked the city and there were so many things left unseen and undone. However before I caught the train, I went to the Hokkaido festival at Hakata Hankyu. This is something unique to Japan I believe, the food department within a department store sponsors a region. Last year it was Kyushu in Takashimaya in Tokyo. Different vendors give you small tastes and then you can purchase the items. A dining area is set up with the regions specialties. I bought a bento box with crab meat, sea urchin and salmon roe to eat on the train.
The train ride despite the rain and grayness was spectacular, it goes past villages that look as stage settings and then the sea, these views continued until we were almost in Nagasaki and when it became industrial and ugly.
My hotel is literally across the street from the station, except in order to cross the street you have to climb stairs, and then descend stairs. Fortunately there were elevators, but not for reaching the street cars. Am staying at APA hotel because I have to leave at 6.30 am on the 13th and didn’t want to have to travel far. As it happens it is next door to the long distance bus terminal, bought my ticket today, it takes me straight to the international terminal at Fukuoka airport at half the price of a train ticket.

Didn’t do much on my first afternoon, except went to Chinatown which was inundated with Chinese and Korean tourists I was really tired and went back to the hotel. Am also suffering from a strange foot condition that kept on waking me during the night. First time on this trip I slept until 11.30 am, guess I needed it. Eventually got going and decided to visit the Cathedral and Glover garden and residence.
It is a park built for Thomas Blake Glover, a Scottish merchant who contributed to the modernization of modernization of Japan in shipbuilding, coal mining, and other fields. The access to Glover Gardens was most civilized, escalators, and rolling walkways to take you to the top. It was a lovely visit with fantastic views of the harbour and a delightful walk down.

The day was sunny with clear skies it seemed a good idea to go to Mt. Inasa for the sunset and night view of Nagasaki.PR is a wonderful thing, this night view is supposed to be amongst the 3 best in the world together with Hong Kong and Monaco. It was very nice, but so are most cities viewed from high up and lit up at night. To get there was an ordeal, first we, a young German man and I, could not get off the tram in time at our stop. He decided to walk back I to take the next tram. When I got off at the correct stop there are no signs, I ask somebody who says to take the bus and points to a bus that has arrived I get on, it turns out to be completely wrong information, return to the starting point and meet some Dutch people who lead me right. It is a very, very long walk to get to the cable car as well as an uphill climb by now the sun has set and the lights are on. It is quite a spectacular view, my German friend is on the top tier taking pictures. We end up having dinner at the restaurant. It is amazing how reasonable food is in places that normally would be considered tourist traps. My dinner of Champon, a local specialty, was 1050 yen, approx. $10. The same at the airport, food prices were normal as was the cost of water. Actually I forgot that I had water in my bag going through security, all they did was put the bottle in a tester to make sure it was water, and let me through

My knees and legs are protesting the previous nights excursions even the back is starting to make itself felt. Went to what used to be an island called Dejima, which was created to intern the Portugese to prevent Christianity to grow. The visit was very interesting, but have not been able to figure out why it was called a factory. Am still trying to get my head around Nagasaki and the Western influence during the Edo period when Japan was shut off from the rest of the world. The history is very interesting, Christian martyrs, Korean mine workers, Dutch shippers, the only export and import to Japan basically only in Nagasaki. After a visit to a market street, and making full use of my unlimited tram pass by going in the wrong direction, and getting off at the wrong spot it was time to call it a day before the rain hit.

A few thoughts, renting of costumes is very popular, in Kyoto young girls and boys rent kimonos for the day. Her at Glover garden there are period dresses from the 1800’s that girls were wearing. Toilets with delightful warm seats also have a privacy button that simulates the sound of running water. The Japanese are the most courteous of people until it comes to public transportation. You would think that there will never be another train, bus or tram the way they push Most older people die their hair black, but the quality of the product is so much nicer with no brassy effects. Cheese is expensive and hard to find, yogurt is cheap and plentiful. Fruit is expensive and very limited.

thursdaysd

"Cheese is expensive and hard to find, yogurt is cheap and plentiful. "

Many Asians are lactose intolerant. Apparently in yogurt some/much of the lactose has already been broken down.

"My hotel is literally across the street from the station, except in order to cross the street you have to climb stairs, and then descend stairs"

Yes, I found that a pain, too. Another example of the difficulty of tackling Japan if you have mobility problems.

Nywoman

Nagasaki cont.
Last year whilst in Japan I lost or at least did not gain weight, that was because I didn’t know how fantastic baked goods is here. This time I am just enjoying what I buy, fortunately did not discover this incredible super market with wonderful baked goods until today. It is one of the largest supermarkets I have seen, only wish I had room to put unknown foods in my suitcase. Also very good prices, I guess that is because Walmart has something to do with it. At least all the cash registers has Walmarts logo!!!!!
What an incredible day this has been, it was much cooler but the sun was shining and the sky was blue. Did a toss-up between Hus Ten Bosch or the Penguin Aquarium, the Penguins won. It started when I was standing by the bus stop and two women approached me to ask here I was going, not only was I at the wrong stop, which was discovered after a phone call, but they would not leave until they saw me safely on the right bus. Even if you don’t care for penguins, the ride is so beautiful going into the mountains where the slopes are covered in bamboo, then descending towards the sea.
There are a total of 18 species of penguins in the world, 9 live at the aquarium. As I am walking around and enjoying the penguins, you can get quite close to them, a woman approaches me and tells me that there will be a behind the scenes tour and to get a ticket. While we are waiting she takes me to a beach area on the bay where there are penguins who we feed Horse Mackerel to, a Japanese variety of fish, which we throw into the water for the penguins to catch. During the tour we find out that all the fish that is fed to the penguins have had their fins removed, because they could get caught in their throats. What a job to have, they must use thousands of fish a day.
There are 10 people on the tour, which is conducted in Japanese, but I get the gist of some of it. Really wish I had understood what was said. We start out at the pump room which is quite mind boggling, then we go to a room where we see the top of one of the fish tanks. We see shrimp larvae under a microscope and feed the fish in the tank with a mixture of fish and shrimp. The last stop is behind the warm climate penguins, for lack of a better word, plaza. We walk by the penguins that are still out close enough to touch. There are pens for them that they sit in and rest after having been fed in front of people. All the way in the back there are two penguins one is laying on her egg with I assume her mate standing next to her. After the tour, the guide who knows a little English points out two babies. One is 4 months old the other 9 months they have not yet acquired the markings of their parents. This was such an extraordinary experience and apparently very rare that this tour is given. Have a $4 lunch and sit outside when the penguins who live in the bay decide to go for a walk up the beach. The guard goes to stop them, they turn back, except one who cannot decide whether to join his pals or stay on the beach. What a fun, educational and interesting day. Now I am off to search for an Izakaya and try some Japanese whisky.
Sayonara

jacketwatch

It does not surprise me that those women made sure you got on the right bus. We found the Japanese to be very polite people.

I have had several Japanese whiskies too and they are darn good. I hope you liked them!