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Old Mar 7th, 2016, 12:30 PM
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Myanmar 2 week itinerary

Six of us have just bought tickets for Myanmar for the last 2 weeks in November. I feel relatively solid about the itinerary we've worked out (well, that I've worked out ... I'm the planner in the group), but I'd like to ground-truth it! We're all in our early 50's, but all in good shape.

In particular, I'm interested to know if we've made a good choice in hotels - though they are booking so quickly we might not have a choice to switch! I've reserved rooms already in all of them. My two main criteria for hotels is 1) good location, preferably more in the local part of town than the tourist part, and 2) nice staff. Major bonus points for places with great breakfasts.

2.5 days Bangkok to recover from jet lag

Fly Bangkok > Mandalay

2.5 days Mandalay at The Home Hotel. http://www.thehomehotelmandalay.com/

As the time gets closer I'll come up with a detailed game plan. Mandalay Hill, Amarapura, Min Kun, and Inn Wa are the main places I'd like to visit.

Ferry to Bagan

I know it's slow, but it's still high on our list.

2.5 days Bagan at the Sky View Hotel. http://www.agoda.com/sky-view-hotel/hotel/bagan-mm.html

The hotel is 1.5 km outside of Nyaung-U. Reviewers say it is too far from town to walk, which confuses me. 1.5 km sounds like a pleasant evening stroll. Otherwise, the reviews for this place sound great.

Car Hire: Bagan > Mt. Popa > Kalaw

Our hotel in Kalaw has already offered to arrange a car for $100, plus $10 for a Mt. Popa detour. Should we take him up on this offer? I assume we'd need 2 cars for 6 guys.

1.5 days Kalaw at the Thitaw Lay House. http://www.thitawlayhouse.com/

This place looks great. Like in Bagan, the fifteen-minute walk into town should not be an issue for us. In Kalaw we'll either do a day hike or visit the Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp.

slow train Kalaw > Inle

2.5 days Inle at the Thanakha Inle Hotel.

This is three times the rate of the other hotels, but it was the only non-backpacker place that had three rooms open on our dates. It does look nice. http://www.thanakha-inle-hotel.com/

Fly Heho > Yangon

2.5 days Yangon at the Merchant Art Boutique Hotel. https://merchantyangon.com/merchant-art/

I like the modern feel of this hotel. It's a five minute walk to the north entry of Shwedagon Pagoda, and I read that there aren't a lot of restaurants in the area. I also read that it's surrounded by a night market. I've loved SE Asian street food in other places

How's this sound so far? I'm open to any feedback. I realize that we could save time by flying more, but all of the group is united in wanting to travel overland as much as possible. One wants to take buses, but the other five have over-ruled him.

My only concern is that the pace might be moving too fast, even though we have three nights in most places.
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Old Mar 7th, 2016, 02:28 PM
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Three nights in a place is just two full days. I suspect the stops you mention as 2.5 days all really just three nights, (two days). Travel overland is slow... and you are wasting a whole day in a boat. Plot your trip out on a calendar, noting travel times. (and where are you getting your travel time estimates?)

Burma has become my favorite destination after three trips there. Here are some of my recommendations about what to see;

Mandalay: Sagaing is the loveliest of the "ancient cities" Inwa/Ava/ other variations on the name are the least interesting as they allow only 4 stops on the horsecarts circuit. There is nothing left to be seen at Mandalay Hill.

Bagan: 2.5 days would not be enough for me. Decide whether you really have enough time for Kalaw and Mt. Popa. Investigate the elephant camp carefully, aster are only a few places in SE Asia that do not abuse the elephants.

All trains in the country are slow and uncomfortable.

At Inle, make sure you go to Sankar one day, and the other day, make sure you choose your stops or they will all be shopping stops. Do get to Kakku if you can.

We have photos from all three trips at www.marlandc.com If you click on my name, you can access my trip reports.
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Old Mar 7th, 2016, 07:18 PM
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I wasn't sure about including Kalaw, but the group really wants to travel overland as much as possible, and one guy really, really wants to ride on the colonial train. Kalaw seemed like the best stop-over en route.

Sankar looks amazing. I've had challenging moments (and that's being polite) negotiating with private drivers and boat captains in other developing countries. I'll set off thinking that we were very clear on what the agenda was, only to find that the other person suddenly doesn't speak any language I speak (and I speak a couple) and drops us off at the pre-determined tourist stops and shops. Is this an issue at Inle also?

And thanks for the information on the ancient cities. I'd rather have a slow day and take our time at one place than take a tour that rushes around. I've read that Mandalay Hill itself isn't too impressive, but it looks like a lot of the main sites of the city are clustered at it's base.

I'm getting my times from trip reports here, The Man in Seat 61, the online Burmese train schedules (I realize that they are often delayed), etc. - I'm a planner, I've got a complete excel spreadsheet with all the information on it!

There's just not enough time in 2 weeks. I would like more days in both Bagan and Inle!

I forgot to ask about books in my first post! I really like to geek-out and read up on a country before I visit. I ordered five books on-line last week:

The River of Lost Footsteps, Thant Myint-U
Burmese Days, George Orwell
From the Land of Green Ghosts, Pascal Khoo Thwe
Letters from Burma, Aung San Suu Kyi
Chroniques birmanes, Guy Delisle

Those should keep me busy for the next three months, but I'd love to hear if people have any other recommendations (English or French).
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Old Mar 7th, 2016, 08:08 PM
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I'm not personally familiar with your hotel choices. I'd say in general you will find Mayanmar people very helpful, including staff at hotels. If the location is right, you should be okay.

In Amarapura district you might want to check out the Weiwarasana temple (Jade pagoda) it is new, has some beautiful jade and you will likely be the only westerners there.

Kathie is right about Mandalay hill, very skippable.

I enjoyed floating down the Irrawaddy, there was an ever changing scene to watch on the riverbank.

In Inle lake I used the services of a guide called Phyu Phyu in Nyaung Gyi Rd. You can click on my name for a trip report - she is very reasonable and will take you where you want to go and not necessarily the shopping spots.

To add to your reading list..

Where India meets China - Thant Myint-U
The Glass Palace - Amitav Ghosh
The Piano Tuner - Daniel Mason
The Trouser People - Andrew Marshall.

Have a read of my two trip reports covering Myanmar if you have time.
I'm currently organising a fourth visit for May this year.

Enjoy your planning.
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Old Mar 7th, 2016, 09:04 PM
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Caroline, you are going back? i'm envious!
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Old Mar 7th, 2016, 10:04 PM
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Yes Kathie, I should be there 4 May. I'm trying to organise the troops (teachers) to come with me to Hsipaw. This will be after Georgetown and Hanoi with DH. He has to come home to work and house/dog responsibilities.

I'm very lucky that he's okay with me taking an extra couple of weeks to revisit Myanmar. I also plan to catch up with a teacher friend in Yangon who is around my age (unlike all the 20 or 30 somethings I'll be with in Manadalay).

Sorry for the hijack OP, please ask any questions, if I can help I certainly will. I love Myanmar, mainly for the people.
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Old Mar 8th, 2016, 10:56 AM
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hijack away! As the time gets closer I'll be back with a lot more questions, mostly (probably) being about where to eat.
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Old Mar 8th, 2016, 12:22 PM
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I really enjoyed the boat trip from Mandalay to Bagan -- interesting scenery and a very relaxing day.

In terms of the distances to town from the hotels you mentioned, I don't know the hotels, but I will say that in general walking in Myanmar is not a pleasant or relaxing experience. We love walking, but not so in Myanmar. Roadways are very dark (carry flashlights), there are often no sidewalks and what sidewalks there are, are often in horrible condition.

satoric - enjoy Hsipaw -- we really liked it there.
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Old Mar 8th, 2016, 02:03 PM
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Just checked out your hotels on tripadvisor-a good choice, all with good reviews and with a couple as top choices.
There are two opinion camps when it comes to elephants but the reviews are good
https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Attrac...han_State.html
SS
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