julies

I'm going to put this out here, but I don't know if any of you will be able to help me because my impression is that many people who frequent this forum are definitely high end travelers who have either worked on their own or with an agency to get everything lined up before departure from home. But, here goes because maybe there are some people out there who have a travel style more in line with ours.

We are late planners and are just about to book plane tickets to India, leaving about a month from now. We are looking at a longer trip of 5 to 6 weeks, starting in the south (Kerala and Karnakata) and moving north into Madhya Pradesh, southern Rajasthan and maybe a bit of Gujarat. The Munnar area, the backwaters near Alleppy, Kochi, Udaipur, Jaisalmer, and Varranasi are the only super major destinations we plan on visiting. We also plan to got to some more off-beat destinations like Bundi and Mandu and also want to stay in a few more isolated spots with affordable heritage hotels like Prithvi Vilas Palace Jhalawar, Chandelao Garh, Ravla Blenshwara, and Fort Dhariyawad.

I plan to book the first week or so ahead (Mysore and Wayanad) but want to know if we'd be okay just planning ahead a day or two for the rest of the trip. I've been reading so much about pre-booking being necessary in high season but don't know if that means months in advance or if it means call ahead to get a spot. We are looking to stay in nice, interesting mid-priced lodging that has some character rather than being just another bland hotel room, and I'll admit I am a bit picky about lodging (not in terms of services or luxury) in terms of overall ambience, good value, and good location. So, we aren't super high end travelers who need luxury, but we also aren't backpackers who'll just come in and take any clean room.

I really would prefer not to get locked into an iron-clad itinerary for this length of time because we might really like a place and want to stay there, or we might hate a place we thought we'd like and wnat to get out of there as soon as possible. What do you think? If I've already done my research and have one or two places in each potential location that I'd like to stay, would we be okay just calling or e-mailing ahead a day or two? Or, would this be a total disaster? Thanks.

joannay

I'm a budget traveler and have been to India several times for trips of 1-2 months each. I've always gone in the winter so I suppose that's what's referred to as high season. The first trip I booked everything in advance although I made changes along the way with no difficulty even on that trip. On each subsequent trip I've booked ahead less often, usually just the first places as you have suggested doing.

As long as your heart is not set on staying in very particular accommodations I suggest you play it as you go. Do some research and bring lists of possible places along and also ask as you go at places you stay, guests and proprietors, if you need suggestions. Some of the most interesting places I've stayed have been suggestions from fellow travelers. There are lots of comfortable budget places that you won't necessarily find online. It's the ones that are well known from guidebooks and websites and the accommodations that the package tour people use that are booked out first.

Your travel style sounds very like mine and I encourage you to do exactly as you like and have an adventure. I think not knowing where you'll end up is far more interesting than never taking a chance.

julies

Joannay--This is so reassuring to me. Never having been to India, it is so difficult to have an idea from far across the ocean of what will really appeal to us and how long we'll want to stay in places. We are interested in having a more relaxing vacation rather than one where we rush around to make sure we have seen every single site on a typical itinerary. From what I understand winter is high season, and that is why I was wondering about the necessity of pre-booking everything. And, frankly, the places that get pre-booked because all of the tour groups wanting to stay there usually aren't the places I'd be interested in anyway. Thanks much.

thursdaysd

julies - I'm definitely more of a budget traveler than most posters here - probably than you are. My first visit to India was right after 9-11, and very few people were traveling. I had reservations for the beginning of the trip (Siliguri, Kurseong, Darjeeling and Kolkata) and for the end (Kochi and Chennai over Christmas with a friend), but did the rest on the fly. Sometimes booking a couple of days ahead and sometimes just showing up in town. I had no difficulties, but many of the places I stayed were very low-end - AC and en-suite but basic, the kind with one drain in the middle of the bathroom floor and maybe wthout their own generator.

When I went back last winter I did make more reservations ahead of time, because when I started checking things before I left I kept having problems finding rooms, and I was staying a little more up-market. That said, I did do some of it on the fly, even booking for Christmas week a short time ahead - but this time I was staying in Trivandrum, not as popular as Kochi. I would say that if you definitely want a specific place you should book ahead, and if you want to stay somewhere where there are few options you should also book ahead. However, I would expect January to be easier than November and December, which is when I was traveling.

qwovadis

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klpustka

I went a for a couple weeks in 2008 and think you can definitely get away with playing it by ear depending on the type of places you like to stay. I would definitely do some research before hand and have an idea or list of places in the area that are around.

When my sister and I went to Thailand we booked but also played some hotels and our itinerary by ear and that worked well. India is a bit different as I found the lodging is either very low budget and not so nice, or expensive and clean. It is a beautiful country but also very dirty and you get what you pay for. It turned out to be an expensive trip due to the lodging but it was worth having a clean room to go back to after long days of visiting temples, the city, markets, etc.

Also keep in mind that getting around is not as easy as other countries either. It could take three hours to travel 20 miles by car due to the roads. We mainly stayed Northwest though.

For Varranasi I would book that one in advance. The town is very, very small. We stayed on the Ganges there and would book that in advance. That will be the last place you want to get stuck without a room

Hope this helps a little and have fun!

Kristi

julies

Yes, Kathy, I am familiar with those bathrooms with the drain in the middle of the floor.......

I've read so many recommendations for staying right on the river in Varanasi that I know that is one place where I'd definitely need to book ahead to get one of those more desirable places.

After hearing what many of you have to say, I think what I will end up doing is to book some places I really know I want and then leave gaps in between where I could have some flexibility. As I've gotten older, my standards have gone up a bit and while we never do top-of-the-line luxury type places, we do want clean, nice and interesting..........as I am sure do tons of other more moderate-budget travelers.

Actually this weekend at a party I had a conversation with a young woman who is very well-traveled and who spent a semester in India about 10 or 15 years ago. She told me that we'd definitely want to have nicer (better) lodging in India.

So, now another question related to booking ahead. Many of the places I am interested in want a significant deposit in order to reserve a room, and they want a bank transfer. When we've done these in the past to reserve a room when traveling abroad, they've cost us big bucks--like $40 a time. Does anyone have any solutions for these types of payments when the lodging doesn't even take paypal muchless a credit card?

Thanks again for all the help.

thursdaysd

I did Western Union last time, which isn't cheap either. You could try asking whether the later ones will wait until you get to India, then you should be able to do a bank transfer for free. If you come up with a better answer I'll be really interested!

joannay

I suggest that in the places you want to book ahead, spring for a nicer place that takes credit cards. Many do and the whole bank transfer thing is so expensive and such a pain, by the time you pay for the transfer you could be staying in a more upscale place anyway.

There's no protection whatever if you do a transfer while your credit card will cover you in case of a "misunderstanding".

lcuy

Keep in mind that the "Incredible India" marketing campaign has been very, very successful, and lots of "out of the way" places are no longer under the radar. In my experience, the nice smaller places are the ones that book up in advance.You can get an Oberoi or Sheraton or Shangri-la a lot more easily that a decent small hotel in a city with few hotels.

I don't think I ever started planning a trip to India more than 2 months in advance. I am really comfortable with winging it in much of SE Asia, but India? Not so much. Although I'm pretty comfortable with a wide range of accomodations (Youth hostel to $$$$$), decent, reasonably priced rooms can be difficult to locate in India. I call a room decent if it has a clean bed and sheets, no overpowering sewer or mold smells, and electricity for at least long enough to re-charge your camera and phone!

If you are picky about your lodging, I think your plan to book many places and then leave some "holes" is the closest I'd go to winging it.

I used Western Union for some hotels. Make sure you note the nights and room rate on your paperwork, then take a copy with you.

How are you going to be traveling? Will you have a car to allow you to just change your destinations on the fly, or will you be taking trains and planes? Do you have an agent arranging the cars? A reputable one can book these hotels for you now, then you'll pay them when you arrive.

julies

Bank transfers while in India are free even if I am using a US bank account???? I guess I don't understand how this works and how I'd do it if someone would even allow me to do it. Can you please explain further?

I understand the concept of going with a more expensive lodging that will accept credit cards, but frankly usually we prefer the smaller more quirky type places with only a few rooms. These typically don't accept credit cards (here in the US either). So, a bit of readjusting in my thinking may have to take place about what I really want in India. I did just e-mail one place I've been in contact with who wanted a bank transfer and asked if by any chance they use Paypal. This isn't my favorite either, but it is better than a bank trnsfer, and we've sometimes used it in the past with international destinations.

Even though I have never used an agent in the past, I am starting to think that may be my solution for visiting India. As I flesh this idea out, I am looking at a mix of buses, trains, flights and private drivers. I had planned to just have the owners of the lodgings we use arrange transportation (drivers, airport pickups, and train tickets) because it seems like all of them offer services like these, and I've always been successful with operating this way in the past. But, as you all say, India is different, and maybe I need to change my way of operation. Do you know if travel agents will book these really small ma and pa places if that is what I want? Becasue, as mentioned, it would probably work out to be easier and cheaper to just give the money via credit card to the agent so the agent can make the deposit for me.

One more thing: for those of you who said you did make reservations but then changed them on the fly, are you talking about calling and saying things like I'd like to come in on Tuesday rather than Thursday? Or, are you talking about more major changes than that? Thanks again.

thursdaysd

"Bank transfers while in India are free even if I am using a US bank account????" - you use cash. When I did it the target had an account with the ICICI bank, I withdrew cash from the ATM, and then took it inside. I filled in a form, and one of the clerks fed the notes into a machine (the locals were doing it themselves....)

Everywhere I dealt with in India had email, I didn't use the phone. I booked on the fly to fill in gaps in my schedule, I don't remember making changes, but I'm sure you could.

joannay

Travel agents most often book tours to the usual places and if you decide to use one it may take an iron will on your part to bend them to your way of doing things. That was my experience and I ended up with exactly what I wanted but it took a lot of back and forth to get the chaff out (extra places, more upscale hotels, etc) and to slow it down to the kind of leisurely pace I like. And I wasn't using "small ma & pa" places that trip so I don't know if you'll find an agent with that sort of flexibility. But I think it's worth a try.

The changes I spoke of were of the longer here and add a place there variety, not many but I did find them able to accommodate me. The agency in question was Indian Moments and I've recommended them to others.

But, back to the beginning, you will give up the flexibility you seek to a large extent. But maybe, as you appear to be doing your homework and seem to know what you want, you'll end up with a prebooked trip that's exactly what you want. I did and wasn't sorry for a moment. There are so many places to see in India you'll never get to them all in any case and the ones you choose for this trip will be great and for the next and so on. Practically speaking I see no downside to booking with an agent if you get what you want and use this trip as reconnaissance for the next. It can be very relaxing to have all the big decisions made in advance.

If you decide to play it as you go and your budget will allow for the occasional detour to a more upscale place when ma & pa are full then I see no problem with that either. Also, in the case of moderate distances your accommodations will be able to make onward arrangements for you, guest houses and cars & drivers when necessary which are not terribly expensive but certainly more than the trains. (I've never seen an Indian bus I'd ride in but maybe I haven't seen the better ones.)

If I were you I'd at least email an agent or 2 and see how amenable they are to your ideas. If this is your first trip I think it would be a good start and maybe leave the winging it to subsequent visits.

joannay

One more thought: The trip I speak of that was booked for me was 3 weeks of a month-long visit. The last week I was on my own and this might be another approach for you, to book the early stages of your trip and use the latter part to pick up some spots you've heard about or even to return to a place you loved. I'd wanted to stay at the Oberoi Maidens Hotel in Delhi, the first historic hotel of the chain, lovely, smaller and very interesting. So the agent booked me in there on my arrival. I decided to return there after the tour part was over and was able to get the agent's discount which was significant, because I asked ($75 instead of $125 for a single). I then went to Shimla and back again to the Maidens before leaving the country. So a combination of booked and free time might work well for you too.

julies

Are Indian buses like the chicken buses in Central America? If so, been there and done that. For 1/2 hour without luggage it is tolerable, but that is about it. I mentioned buses because some of the smaller guesthouse places I've been looking at out in the countryside of Kerala mention taking the bus and then getting a taxi the rest of the way. Guess it will primarily be trains mixed in with car and driver.

I do wonder about the discounts that agents can get on lodging but wonder if it is only the more major places and chains or if it is the same with some of the smaller more inexpensive heritage hotels like we are looking at too. We really aren't big hotel fans anywhere in the world always preferring the smaller more unique lodging places. Guess my next move might be to start contacting agents to ask them exactly how they operate. I've been collecting names of agents and will add Indian Moments. Thanks again.

joannay

Please don't discount the possibilty of staying in some of the "heritage" hotels. They come in all sizes and price ranges, except rock bottom, and I think this is where you'll find the most unique experiences. Many of them are still occupied by local royal families and are full of Raj era furniture and memorabilia, great atmosphere.

I suggest you find some places that interest you and compose an email that you can send off to several agencies and see what they offer. You'll know from the first answer if they mean to steer you in the opposite direction or if they'll work with you.

CaliNurse

Hi Jannay,

Just saw this thread. A minor point ...actually, the first Oberoi hotel was in Shimla:
Clarkes Hotel.
l it is no longer part of the chain, but the old metal keys still say "Oberoi" and there is plaque outside the hotel that commemorates Clarkes as Mr Oberoi's first hotel.
We stayed there and loved it, even without the "5 star" approach of today's Oberoi Hotels.

CaliNurse

JulieS

"Frankly, the places that get pre-booked because all of the tour groups wanting to stay there usually aren't the places I'd be interested in anyway. "

On my last two trips (the first one was decades ago) i saw hardly ANY large tour groups. In fact, the large tour groups i did see where students from India!! You may be envisioning something that exists much less than you are imagining. OR maybe I've just been lucky enough to avoid those places. I will be in Jaipur next month so maybe I'll see the large groups then. But i didnt see any noticeable tour groups except Indian people, in most of the olaces i visited--including Agra.

And, it is not just "tour group"hotels that get pre-booked. There are popular SMALL homestays, and popular local hotels, that also may be full in peak season (e.g. Old Harbour in Ft Cochin, and Philipkuttys on the lake nr Vaikom) despite relaltively high prices.

julies

Thanks for the added feedback. I am still almost obsessed with planning for this trip and have a huge list of the places we would like to stay over others. I know for sure we'll book some ahead of time in the south. If anyone else is reading this as they plan (probably for future years and not next month as I am doing) I have discovered that in quite a few places in Kerala rates drop Feb. 1. This says to me also that there may not be as much demand starting in this time frame.

As far as the north I've actually worked out an almost day by day itinerary for 3 weeks. One of the things I've discovered is that if I want to hire a car and driver (I do) then in order to get a valid quote I will (understandably) need to tell them how many day I want the driver and where I want to go. After going through this entire exercise for that portion of the trip so I can get some qoutes, I may just end up planning and reserving ahead.

joannay

"...if I want to hire a car and driver (I do) then in order to get a valid quote I will (understandably) need to tell them how many day I want the driver and where I want to go." julies

This is simply not true although whoever you're dealing with would like you to believe it is. What seems to be true from far away is not necessarily true "on the ground". If you feel more comfortable booking ahead then, by all means, do it. But don't feel compelled to do it because someone there is asking you to for their own purposes. If a more relaxed itinerary appeals to you, as I've said before, anything you want that can be booked ahead will be easily done after arrival and you can do as you please once you're there if you haven't paid in advance.

Since you have a list compiled you may want to book particular hotels in advance but any accommodation can arrange for a car and driver from there to wherever you want to go at nominal cost. Do not feel you must make decisions about your itinerary because an agent has asked you to. You simply don't need to do it that way. They will try to get you to commit to all the particulars but if it's not what you have in mind to do, of your own volition, don't do it. Everything will be available once you're there. If there's one thing I know after months of travel in India I know this.