Mainland China, A Three Week Visit
 

My husband and I just returned from 3 weeks in Mainland China as independent travelers. We landed in Beijing for a week's visit, then to Xi'an, Chengdu, Lahsa Tibet, Chongqing and the Yantze River Cruise on a Chinese boat, and ended in Shanghai and Suzou.

We had a great time with many small adventures and big changes in preconceptions. If anyone has any questions I'd be glad to answer as best I can.

We're going in September for 3 weeks and are interested in any suggestions you might have. Please tell us about your "small adventures and big changes in preconceptions!"

Hi Marija,
Hope you are still for watching for answers on this site. We found the Chinese people had a greater sense of humor and sense of fun than suspected. They can argue one moment (which they do) and then when the disagreement is settled, become very friendly with their opponent. They were much more casual than other Asians, especially the Japanese, in dress and table rituals. They helped us whenever thay felt we were going astray. The women were more curious about us than the men, but I think that is true of most cultures. They couldn't tell us from other Western people, but when they found out we were Americans they became very excited and friendly and eager to have their pictures taken with us (except in the area around the Great Mosque of Xian).
The Chinese are business people and getting the best of the deal is very important to them, besides making as much money as possible in each transaction, it seems very important to them to come out as the "smartest" in the negotiations. The dealing usually stopped when I would say " I am already paying too much." That seemed to signal that they made the better deal and they were satisfied and had nothing more to prove. The government may be communistic, but in their hearts and economy they are capitalists.
Our biggest "small adventure" was in taking a Chinese boat down the Yantze River. We were the only Americans (at the end of the trip we met 2 Germans who spoke English). We travelled first class so had a cabin and bath to ourselves, but most on the boat shared a cabin with one or two other couples. We noticed that they became instant friends with the others in their cabin and were playing card games, etc. and eating together immediately. The crew watched out for us and diverted us from wrong turns, etc. even though they couldn't speak English. It was fun and we never knew where we were headed, but it always turned out okay. Of course, there was never any explanations in English so a good book was helpful at the stops along the River. We would recommend any one who is flexible and doesn't need constant reassurance and can live with 1-2 star level service to try a Chinese River Boat. We saved over US $1500 for a three day, three night trip and had a much more authenic experience.
We also travelled to Lhasa, Tibet without a guide. We payed $100/person for a travel permit and were asked for it in Tibet, We took a plane from Chengdu to Lhasa and back. We stayed at the Lhasa Hotel which is the nicest one in the country. It was comfortable and we needed the limited English speaking ability of the people at the front desk. The cab drivers were dependable in Tibet and China, so as long as the Hotel wrote down where we wanted to go, the drivers understood and were honest. The Tibetans also loved Americans, and when they realized who we were, at one monstery they put on a "USA" ballcap and took us on a personal tour through the monestary. At another they brought us candy. Children and adults all over the country (except Shanghai, which was too sophisticated and used to visitors) wanted to take their pictures with us to take back to their homes.
When we went to the local opera and folkart performance in Chengdu, we were the only Westerners in the audience. The Chinese couple next to us made sure we had our share of peanuts and tea which were served during the performance. That seemed to be the Chinese equivalent to a Saturday night movie in the US.
In one restaurant in Chendu we asked the hostess to serve a typical Tibetan dinner. She brought out yak butter tea, and fried ginseng which were good. Then she served mutton. The problem was that the jaw bones of the sheep still still encased the teeth! That was the only bad meal we had over the whole trip. The food was always good, sometimes wonderful, especially if you ordered Asian rather than Western food.
We had a wonderful trip as independent travelers. The airports, airplanes, buses, subways, ect. are ready for visitors. Now there is a lot of building to get ready for the Olympics in 2008, so many sights have construction areas, but it is a good time to visit. We were there in April so the weather was very nice everywhere. Hope you find this helpful.
I would be glad to offer further information.

Thanks! Did you hire tour guides for any part?

RE: Hiring tour guides in China

Marija,
We purchased two tours from our hotels, one in Xi'an (good decision) and one in Shanghai (bad decision). In Xi'an the tour included many scattered-about places, so it was much easier and quicker to be taken by an organized tour. That included the Terracotta Wariors, prehistoric area of Bimpo, Tombs, gardens, Big Goose and Little Goose Temples, lunch, etc. It was well worth the money. There were only 7 pleasant people on our tour and the guide was very good.

In Shanghai, we arranged the tour to Suzou through the hotel. It would have been more enjoyable and much cheaper had we used the train and gone by ourselves. The tour was by coach and the highway traffic was terrible, the guide was weak, the sights rushed through, the lunch only adequate.

In addition to a tour, a consider hiring a car and driver, which we did at Beijing to go to the Great Wall and Tombs. We arranged it through the hotel, but better rates could be found at a travel agency. I believe we paid a total of US $20 (included lunch for two) for an all day experience. The driver did not speak English, but was patient and once used his cell phone to call someone to translate our conversation. It was also a large car, which usually costs more, but seems much safer in the heavy, crazy traffic. Always find out what kind of car will be used before agreeing to hire.

Thanks, again!

We are leaving on 10/23 for Suzhou. My husband will be working there for approx. 4 days, then to Shanghai for weekend before heading home. I will have free time for touring in Suzhou.

Would like to do city tour of Suzhou and have been quoted $129.00 for the day including lunch. Tour of Suzhou and Tongli (2 days) is $264.00 including lunch. I think this is very expensive. Can you recommend a tour company (like a Gray Line) or other means for touring? Am not brave enough to take bus, train, etc.

Thanks for your help.