Local Ferry from Mandalay to Bagan
 

Has anyone taken the local ferry from Mandalay to Bagan? I'm planning on taking it and would like to get a feel for what it is like and what I need to be prepared to bring with me. For example, I'm thinking that I probably need to have my hotel pack a box lunch and snack for me. Also, are there chairs, benches or something to sit on or do you just sit on the floor? From what I've heard, I understand that life along the river is very interesting. Was that your experience? I'm grateful for any information you can share. Thanks.

I took it and loved it. We sat on benches. We were in their idea of first class but were the only tourists on it which made it very interesting. We had a guide with us which meant that he dealt with the luggage on both ends -- very helpful and served as interpreter when necessary. He also told us what we were seeing. I honestly can't remember how or what we ate. I think we brought water but don't think we got box lunches. I do remember buying some bananas from a woman who was selling it at one of the stops. The trip was definitely a highlight for us and MUCH better than taking a fancy tourist boat where you only talk to other tourists.

We took the "fast boat" tourist ferry. It left at 6 am and arrived at about 6 pm. It runs either 3 or 4 days a week, depending which travel agency we asked. It definitely runs on Saturday. The "slow boat" local ferry, takes longer and runs 2 days a week. We did not have a guide with us. There were porters on both ends, 1000 kiats. The walk off the boat at Bagan is up a steep hill. At the top of the hill, you pay the entrance fee, $10 US dollars. There are "cabs" (old cars) waiting at a reasonable fixed price. Food was sold, but if you looked at the kitchen, you would not want to order. We took oranges, bananas, water, and snacks with us. We have pictures:
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Thanks for the info. Gloria, I'll have Nyi Nyi with me so I'm glad to hear you enjoyed it. Max, loved your pictures.

hi there,
twofortheroad gave a very sight into this boat tour. Let me give my two pence: There are nearly only tourist onboard, so it isnt that interesting if You wont get into talks like "I've been there and there and there ...". The price is 16 US $ pp. The takes about 12 hours, but it depends a lot on the river. Could be 14 hours in dry season. The kitchen is like said above. The ferry Man - Bagan mostly is very crowded. If You do it the other way round You will have just 10 - 20 people with You (toiletts etc). There is a stop about one hour from Bagan You can make real deals on shopping with the women (blankets for ex).
have fun
Gar

Nan-- when are you going? I did this trip 5 or 6 years ago so there might be more tourists on it now but what I took was definitely NOT a tourist boat.

Make sure to say hi to Nyi Nyi and Sonny from me.

Things change, but I agree with Glorialf. I took the ferry 9 years ago. It definitely wasn't a tourist boat then and I doubt it now. We layed out on the roof, chatted, read, enjoyed the scenery. Much more comfortable there then on the decks. Bring what you need on to the boat. The arrival into Bagan is not to be missed. We arrived at sunset and with the temples-something to behold. Had a hired car on that trip. Sent him ahead from Mandalay to Bagan-as was the practice when ever we discovered interesting options in transportation. Arrived with him at the dock waiting and a selection of accomodations to look at.

Yes, we also arrived at sunset and it was magical. I also find it hard to believe it is touristy since there are so many tourist boats going there these days. Those are the boats I'd avoid.

Do you remember walking the plank to get on and off? I did it quite gingergly (understatement) and hanging on to someone which provided great amusement among the burmese. :-).

Gloria
I forgot about that.Made me stop and think when I 1st saw those planks.

Did you get to Inlay Lake. I took a long tail boat from South to North. The police came while we were negotiating the boat, informed us it was illegal and of course we agreed. When they left, we left too. But b4 that, one holdup was the price. We were a little ways apart and getting nowhere. So, knowing most orientals like to gamble, suggested we flip for it. They didn't understand at 1st, but smiled as soon as it sunk in and nodded vigorously. 1st time I lost in circumstances like that, but it made a world of difference. We had a great non-english speaking jovial guide after that. Another brilliant experience. The driver again met us at the dock with perfect accomodations to look at.

Great story! We spent about 5 days at Inle Lake and then another several days in other parts of the Shan State. It and Moguk were the highlight of our trip. I know it's sacriligeous but Pagan was actually our least favorite -- probably because there were no Burmese there. They had moved all the people to someplace else so it had no "soul" for us. Gorgeous architecture but lacked the thing that made everywhere else in Burma so special -- the people.

They had already started to move the villagers away, but some were still poking around then. We could see it was a work in progress. We had seen some forced labor when driving in the vicinity. There were some restoration work and talk of some new hotels. But we stayed exclusively in locally owned places. Except in Yangon. A guy(Aussie) I met on the flight in was selling medical supplies to the gov't. So the 2nd nite I was there we were entertained at a generals nightclub he did business with. Funny going out on the town with literally a briefcase of cash for the evening, and spending it all. The General invited us to stay at a hotel he had an interest in-whatever that means. So, I was a big wheel for a couple more nites in Yangon at a nominal rate. Yes, he is one of dirty ones running the country.
That was one of the funny things, the general had a man stop by to exchange dollars for me at an unbelievable rate b4 we went to his club. The aussie told me it was more then 20% better then black market rates he could get.
Some of the things that we did back then was iffy. We went into a lot of restricted places back then where they were combining villages of different ethnic groups and just plain out of bounds others. Felt kind of bullet proof knowing that guy. Was that a mistake or what?
But was able to go where there were no other tourists. A couple Frenchmen that teamed up in this along the way did nothing to discourage me. Helps having like minded people along at times.

The 1st time in Myanmar, men did not where clothes with pockets mostly. So they walked around frequently with wads of cash in their hands. No worries, because you had to have a screw loose to commit a crime in that country. And then there were few taxis, so pedicabs and whats the word I'm looking for when a guy runs you in a the 2 wheeler- were the norm.
Sorry about the brain freeze. It was in the 90's.

How interesting to hear about your experiences 5 - 9 years ago! Gloria, I'll be in Burma from Nov 30 - Dec 16 and I will, of course, tell Nyi Nyi and Sonny hello.

Now about the planks getting on and off the boat ... I was wondering if they still existed. I was hoping that the 2x6s had been replaced by a 3' wide ramp. Well, since I'm a larger rather than smaller woman, I'm sure all of the locals will be humored as I hold someone's hand and inch my way off the boat!

Again, thanks for your help.

Nan--
If the planks still exist once you survive them it will become a wonderful memory. And Nyi Nyi managed to get both of us off safely and believe me he had his hands full with both of us. :-)If you want to see a picture of me and Ann ask Nyi Nyi to show you a copy of the book he wrote -- we're in it along with our photos.

I guess the planks will keep me from getting off mid-way to Bagan!

nan-- so what's your itinerary?

I spend the first 1-1/2 days in Yangon, then 3 days in Mandalay and surrounding area, ferry to Bagan, 3 days in Bagan and area, 2 days in Kalaw/Pindaya, 4 nights in Inle Lake. I end the trip with another 1-1/2 days in Yangon. Can't wait to go!

Nan-- I'll remind you closer to the date but could you ask Nyi Nyi if there is anything he would like ann and I to bring in January?

Gloria - I'd be happy to. You've been so helpful it's the least I can do.

New querry: We're going to Myanmar in December. Because of time constraints (even tho we have three weeks) we have to choose between visitng Amarapura, Ava and Sagaing or Mingun. Any recommendations? We also have to choose between a second day of Bagan temples/pagodas or trip to Salay and Mt. Popa. Also wondering where you were able to enjoy interaction with local people without government restriction?

1st off, because of the nature of the country and what I like to get out of my trips I hire a car and driver. Inexpensive enough then. 2nd I already had a circuitous route in mind, Yangon-Inle Lake-Mandalay-Bagan-Prome-Yangon. After that I just made decisions as I went. Like deciding to go for an elephant ride. Talked it up along the way and found 1/2 wild elephalts working a logging area. Or hiking into the highland villages with a local and finding out it was restricted area after the fact. Having the owner of the guesthouse we pitched up at hire bikes from neighbors so we could pedal our way around villages of different ethnic groups who had been relocated.Signs posted there a no go area. We ran into the police and military a couple times during the trip, but I think they mostly have instructions to treat tourists well. Its this spontaneous way of travelling that we found a festival not in any guide book at the time-1000's of people all ethnic backgrounds. Met and interacted with everyone(nothing like China in 1982, that was tough) and had no fear the entire trip. and yes, to avoid other tourists and influences on the locals, choose to go into restricted(but not apparently policed) areas.

So, instead of recommending something for a person beyond what the highlites and not to be missed thing, and for a person I don't know, I might suggest you try something similar. 3 weeks maybe just a little tight but doable.

Also, I am somewhat jaded about seeing one more Budda(been travelling Asia/world since 1980 on and off). I tell my driver, if Budda is standing on head or something really unusual, no more ...... Its those things that are dying and disappearing before the tourist crunch strikes/destroys that interests me. One Example- in Africa, a tribe in the Omo Valley visited only by one tour group-Turtle Tours- had learned the magic words- we want Bir($)- when it came time for photos. And children begging for sweets. And this is a remote spot.

The drivers usually know the areas well and you can make a choice according to their knowledge of places, activities, accomodations and recommendations of places to go with your interest. Interview a couple when you get there.

Robbie

I am curious if the Texas Burger place in Mandalay is still open. I took over their kitchen for a couple hours cooking burgers for a bunch of fellow travellers. They had all the ingredients at the time, wrong combination on the menu. Everything looked great except the burger tasted ....there are no words for water buffalo meat. It will never taste like beef.