Kyoto Itinerary Feedback Please!
 

I've been tweaking a Kyoto itinerary for some time now, and I'm ready for feedback! I will be in Kyoto in mid/late November, so I know it will be crowded. I've tried to choose a mix of popular things I'd like to see and less well-known spots.

A few notes:

• My itinerary is likely overly full. I've tried to figure out where the sites most interesting to me would fit, but I realize that I may end up skipping some once I'm there and going about each day. If you’ve read any of my previous trip reports, you know I usually like to pack a lot into my days.
• I know I haven't planned in enough time for meals. I plan to eat at pretty casual places, but I also know that most restaurants are small and often have wait times. This is where I'll need to adjust as I go along. I'll grab street food and conbini food where I just can't bring myself to stop for a proper meal.
• I've penciled in a night illumination spot every evening, but I'm not quite sure what to expect in terms of wait times. I hope to see a few, but it's probably not likely I'll actually go to one every night. Are advance reservations generally available for these?
• There is so much to do in Kyoto! I've chosen the sites that look most interesting to me. I know a lot of people will want to suggest their favorites sites, and I welcome that, but if you want to suggest something I don't have on the itinerary, I'd also welcome suggestions on what to take out and why!

Tuesday

• Arrive in Kyoto via shinkansen ~4pm, check in to hotel, early dinner
• Entoku-in night illuminations
• Kodai-ji night illuminations

Wednesday

• 9am Kinkaku-ji (arrive at or shortly before opening)
• Kimono rental in Gion (I've gone back and forth about doing this, but I realized that most of my hesitation was based on what others might think, and I've decided that I don't really care! This looks fun!)
• Chion-in
• Yasaka Koshin-do
• Kennin-ji
• Return kimono rental
• 5:30pm Kiyomizu-dera night illuminations (I believe this starts at 6pm, would 5:30pm be a good time to arrive and line up for a ticket?)
• Pontocho and Shinbashi-dori (wander/eat)
• Yasaka Shrine

Thursday

• 8:30am Tenryu-ji (arrive at or shortly before opening)
• Walking loop from Tenryu-ji, Arashiyama bamboo forest, Okochi Sanso village, along river
• Lunch and wandering/shopping in Arashiyama
• 2pm Sagano Romantic Train
• 3pm Hozugawa River Boat ride
• Dinner
• 7pm Eikando night illumination (are advance reservations available?)

Friday

• ~7:30am Honen-in temple (starting here will require that I backtrack a bit, but this temple has the earliest opening time)
• Ginkaku-ji
• Walk Philosopher's Path
• Eikando (I would like to see this in the daytime even if I also visit for night illuminations)
• Nanzen-ji
• Shinnyo-do
• Dinner
• Night visit to Fushimi Inari

Saturday

• 9AM - Enkoji (arrive at or shortly before opening)
• Sekizan-zen-in
• Takaragaike Station (can I buy the Eizan rail pass here? If not, I will switch the order of the temples above and go to Demachiyanagi Station)
• ~12pm Lunch at Yoshuji in Kurama
• ~1pm Kurama-dera, hike to Kibune/Kifune
• ~4pm Kifune Shrine - stay until evening when lanterns are lit up
• ~7pm Konkai Komyo-ji night illuminations

Sunday

• 7am Fushimi Inari (doing this on the weekend even though it's a super popular site because I'd like to attend a congregation of my church that meets in this area)
• 10-11am Church
• Komyo-in
• Sennyu-ji
• 4pm-7pm Book binding class
• Kitano-temmanu shrine night illuminations
• To-ji night illuminations

Monday

• 9:30am Kokedera temple (will require reservation)
• I've seen bike rentals in Arashiyama suggested, would it make sense to rent a bike to travel between the sites I have planned this day? How hilly is the area?
• Jojakkoji
• Nisonin
• Gioji
• Lunch at Sabo Satsukitei
• Otagi Nenbutsuji
• Saga Toriimoto Preserved street (Google maps says this is closed Mondays, do they block off the street to tourists?)
• Tofukuji night illuminations (it looks like online tickets may be available)
• Unryu-in night illuminations (this one looks pretty off the beaten path, so hopefully no issues getting in)

Tuesday

• 6AM Kiyomizu-dera (arrive at opening)
• Back to hotel for breakfast
• Wander Gion, Sannenzaka-area for last minute photos and shopping
• 1pm arrive Kyoto station for departure

As you say, jam packed! I don't know if you can manage it, nor do I know for certain that you can't.

FWIW, I thought the Sagano Romantic Train seriously overrated. In contrast, I note that you don't seem to plan to visit one of my favorite places in Kyoto -- Nijo-jo.

I understand your desire to maximize the time available for evening visits to temples, but FWIW, one of my most memorable meals in Japan (and I had several outstanding meals!) was French kaiseki at Misoguigawa. You might want to give it a thought. If you go for it, a reservation will be necessary.

I have an interest in Japanese performing arts, so even if a bit hokey and very touristy, I was glad to attend a performance at Gion Corner.

I'm reluctant to say what you should cut, but since you plan to visit Fushimi Inari during the day, skipping an evening visit might make sense. And you really are planning a LOT of night illuminations....

You'll see amazing things no matter what!

Enjoy!

Thanks for the suggestions kja !

I forgot to note that one reason I'm not prioritizing fine dining is because I don't like fish/seafood and I can be rather picky about meat. The place kja suggested does have a vegetarian option, so that's something to think about. I still have time to make changes to my itinerary.

>> based on what others might think
Japanese like it when foreigners show an understanding, knowledge, appreciation, participation in their culture. If you were thinking about cultural appropiation then that is not a thing in Japan. Expect that wearing a kimono, correctly, would be viewed positively.

I agree with the comments by kja about the Sagano train and Gion Corner.

Depending on when in November you are there you would enjoy visiting a shrine on a popular Shicho-Go-San day.

In our 5 days in Kyoto, I would say we didn't even see half of what you have on your list! While I admire your research, I suspect that the reality will be that you won't be able to see everything on that list. And, if you did, you might be completely worn out! Or templed out, at least.

We do travel much, much more slowly so I'm not giving advice here, but I would identify those places that are "musts" and leave time for the lingering and the wandering. It's not a place to rush through sites so much as absorb them. Kokedera, for instance - you'll first sit down and copying a sutra -- really, it's tracing over a pre-printed sutra, but it's about the meditative process -- and then it's the pleasure of wandering slowly through the moss garden. You won't want to rush off right afterwards.

I agree with kja about seeing a geisha performance. We attended the last day of the Gion Odori and really enjoyed the experience. We thought it would be too hokey but it was anything but. I recommend it if you get a chance.

If you've never been to a ramen-ya, I think you should consider it. Nothing like it anywhere else.

I have never been to this place linked below, but it is the classic ramen-ya experience. There is a vending machine where you put in your money and select your ramen by pushing a button. You then give the ticket to an attendant who will seat you and you will be served your ramen. Many of these places have worked for years (and years) in perfecting their ramen. And that is all they serve.

www.tiny.cc/f03izz

mrwunrfl I've done enough research to know that cultural appropriation and wearing kimonos isn't a concern. My hesitations were more along the lines of feeling awkward because of my age (it seems like kimono rental is something a lot of young people do) or taking photos of myself - stupid stuff that I know I don't need to worry about.

shelemm I've bookmarked the ramenya you suggested. I'll be spending almost three weeks in Japan, so I will definitely make it to at least one ramenya!

progol I'm glad to hear that the performance at Gion Corner is worthwhile. I had mostly seen info on geisha experiences that cost hundreds of dollars. I do have a color coding system I'm using on my planning spreadsheet to prioritize sites each day. I'd much rather take my time at a temple and get the full experience than rush through a bunch of sites just because they're on my list for the day.

Since you are going to spend three weeks in Japan..... I highly recommend going to the Yokohama Ramen Museum. It is a two-story recreation of a Tokyo street scene from the Showa period. it is quite the spectacle... and it's not really a museum. Basically, it is an elaborate excuse to eat ramen. The advantage here is that you can order mini-bowls and you can try different styles of ramen from 7 celebrated ramenya from all over Japan. They also offer a class on how to make ramen noodles. Check it out:

https://www.raumen.co.jp/english/

I don't think there are any odori in Kyoto when you will be there, but if there is one, absolutely make time for it!

Gion Corner is different -- a set of brief exposures to various Japanese performing arts. https://www.kyoto-gioncorner.com/global/en.html

Regarding ramen: check out the movie "Tampopo" (dandelion).

It's about two truckers who help a widowed resaturant owner learn how to make perfect ramen. It's quirky, satirical, and amusing, and is on YouTube (with English subtitles) for free.