Kolkata vs Varanasi
 

We are taking a three and a half week trip to India in February. beginning in Delhi and going to Jaipur, Ranthambore, Agra ... and then to the southern Ganges River Valley. We will be on a boat on the Ganges, ending in Kolkata. We have about two or three more days when we arrive in Kolkata, and my thought was to stay there - in a nice hotel! - and arrange a couple day tours of the city, before we fly home to San Francisco with only one stop.

There is one other possibility - pretty much skipping Kolkata and flying to Varanasi and seeing that city before flying out with a change of planes in Delhi, and then a two segment flight home.

I am feeling that while Varanasi looks intriguing and well worth a visit, we will be at the end of our trip, probably a little tired, and maybe adding another flight, plus a significantly longer journey home ... is it worth it. Especially just for a day or two after the extra travel time. And what about Kolkata - it seems that if we're there, it would be a shame to just leave without seeing any of it.

I have wanted to visit India for a long time - my husband not so much. So - I have convinced/persuaded him to come along ... although I might have gone by myself if he hadn't agreed to come with me. I'm just trying to make this trip as enjoyable and hassle-free as possible - knowing all travel is unpredictable, and likely India even more than most. All part of the adventure!

Any ideas regarding Kolkata v Varanasi?

***Not asking for suggestions right now on the other destinations ; ) ***

I know there are lots of Varanasi-lovers out there and I cannot compare the 2 places as I've never been to that one - on purpose, the reasons not important. But I will tell you I spent a week in Kolkota and loved it. For a variety of reasons, you can read about the sights it offers. But more generally, I found the ambiance so pleasant, hard to explain a feeling, but I plan to go back.

Obviously, these are very different places. While I expect most people would recommend Varanasi, let me say that if you opt of Kolkata, do book a walk with Calcutta Walks, www.calcuttawalks.com They are just marvelous. We had just two full days in Kolkata, but booked two walks with them. Photos are here: http://www.marlandc.com/Sikkim-2010/...alcutta-india/

I have not been to Kolkata, but we have taken two 2-week trips to northern India and Varanasi is definitely not to be missed, unless the logistics make it impossible. Look at flights from Varanasi to Bangkok and go from there to SFO...

I have been to both... varanasi was overwhelming and Kolkata was underwhelming.

the grand public bldgs. in K are attractive and interesting, street life is also interesting there but not that much different from parts of delhi which you will see.

V on the other hand is quite out of control in every way. it is truly fascinating... the cremations, the river bathing, the rituals, the dance, the whackos, the mystics, the colors, the smells, the intensity..
I suggest having a guide/handler there to make the most of it. staying along the river is unique, but the places are 2/3* at best, but it gives a unique authenticity to it all.

we loved the Sheraton in K.

read my trip report by clicking on my name

I loved Varanasi, and found it a highlight of our trip to India 2 years ago, but we went at the beginning of our trip, when we still had a lot of energy.

Much as I recommend visiting it, I think your decision to skip Varanasi makes sense in terms of your itinerary and how you'll be likely be feeling at the end of your trip. It's a very intense place to visit, and is the epitome of all things crazy in India (thanks, rhkkmk, you spelled it out very well!), and if your husband has a reluctance to go to India, then this might be too much for him.

I will say, though, that it was one of the most unique places I've ever been, and am very glad that I was there. I loved our trip to India, and no matter where you go, you will have a great time -- but Varanasi was as "out there" as any place I've been, and that crazy, intense experience was something we both were glad we had.

I can't comment on Varanasi, but highly recommend Kolkata.

There are many interesting sights within easy reach of the Oberoi Grand. It's a 5 star hotel in a beautiful old building, with a bustling street market outside the front gates. A block away is a fair trade emporium, it sells handicrafts from many states.

You can walk to the Victoria Monument easily and the Museum of India is a few blocks away. The famous eating street Sudder St. is around the corner.

It was a splurge for us, but so worth it, as the location offers many options.

It seems to me, given the comments above, that it might depend on wether you want an in-your-face experience, or a subtler one. Kolkata is a place known for its literary tradition and cafe culture. Most of the time I stayed at the heritage golf club, the Tollygunge Club, a fascinating glimpse into the past melded to the present, which I think is what Kolkata is strong on. I also stayed at the Fairlawn in the center of things and if you enjoy a taste of historic comfort, rather than sanitized, it's a memorable place for a couple of nights, full of "regulars" and an illustrious past guest list of the artistic/theatrical type: http://fairlawnhotel.com

I have been to both. I enjoyed Kolkata, but I was there during the Durga Puja celebration, which added a lot of interest. If you are going to spend any time in Delhi, I don't know that you need to spend time in Kolkata as well.

Varanasi, on the other hand is unique. It is st once one of the most sacred (and oldest) cities on earth, and the dirty, raucous, essence of India. If you are going to India at all, I think Varanasi is a must-see - more so than the Taj, which was a product of the Mughal empire - but there is no question that it is a demanding place to visit. But so is all of India. And you can always rest up at home.

It is a difficult question to answer. These are two very different destinations altogether. Varanasi, impoverished, pock-marked, is an 'experience' like none else in India...the cremations, mendicants of all descriptions - some noble, some rascally; smells, the grime, the destitution...should be dealt with early on your tour. This is one place which may unsettle an already reluctant visitor in your DH!
Kolkata is benign compared to Varanasi. Ifty of the Calcutta Walks has a couple of tours which one should take. The walk takes you through the heart of Calcutta from Bow Barracks, Burra Bazaar and crosses several areas inhabited by Parsees, Jews etc. It is a great walk and he makes it all the more pleasant by his descriptions of sightseeing / Half-day, beginning at about 8AM. The other is his 'street food' walk which centers around the Park street area / 2-3hrs. His selections of shops/vendors will not give you a Delhi belly!
Apart from this you should go to the Howrah Bridge and from the Ghats (escarpment) on the Hooghly, 'experience' just a wee bit of the Varanasi!
The Oberoi Grand (Premier room with balcony), in the heart of Chowringhee, is an ideal destination well insulated from the noisy chaos outside!
Happy travels!!

If you want to make the trip as hassle free as possible, Kolkata would be a better option. I'd recommend the ITC Sonar Hotel for its simply superb food.

Hi SCDreamer, from another Bay Arean.

Having had the good travel fortune to visit both Varanasi and Kolkata, and looking at your itinerary, I'd recommend sticking with Kolkata at end of trip. Two-three days of relaxation there prior to returning home is perfect, and I am certain your reluctant husband would much prefer that to the extra trip to crazy chaotic fascinating but totally filthy/intense Varanasi.
If you decide on Kolkata, definitely splurge and stay at the Oberoi in one of the pool-facing upper floor rooms.(The first room I had --"courtyard" facing--was a bit dark and musty, whereas the one facing the pool was light and airy. Might have just been my luck--but they are all about customer satisfaction in that hotel) Actually, given current exchange rates, it isn't THAT much of a big splurge.I think i paid about $180/room in 2013. You will appreciate being able to retreat behind its gates and receive the wonderful warm staff welcomes. The LaLit chain has recently opened a refurbished hotel in Kolkata, and it gets great reviews, but for a first time in Calcutta, there's nothing quite like the Oberoi imho.

A few comments re above feedback from fellow Fodorites:


1. Apparently the charming Fairlawn (which is just a couple blocks from the Oberoi) sadly ain't want it used to be in the last yr or so, since the original owner died. This per a friend who often stayed at the place, but is dismayed by the decline.

2. If you read some of the reviews from Fodorites about Calcutta Walks, they specifically mention Manjit as their excellent guide. A couple yrs ago, Manjit started his own company, called Calcutta Photo Tours www.calcuttaphototours.com/ and he gives excellent tours, whether or not you'tr into high level photography. His cultural heritage tour is particularly wonderful! You can also book tours with him (or do on your own) to some other fascinating areas, including the flower market by the bridge, Bow Barracks, the jain Temple, the old Jewish cemetery, or Kamartauli (highly recommended) where you see the the craftsmen turning straw and clay into Gods !(-:

Other places I recommend for a visit are Mother Teresa's Home (peer up the stairs at her simple room; see the small but fascinating museum which talks of her life, including her then-disguised depression) the South Park St Cemetery--fascinating, eery, atmospheric!) and tea at the once-elegant Fleury's, a Raj era place which is pretty worn out now but still fun.These are all on Park Street, a few blocks from the Oberoi, and can be easily reached from there as you dive in to the foot and car traffic.

Another area I loved was the university district, with its many bookshops and crowds of enthusiastic students. If you go there, stop into the Indian Coffee House, with its lively atmosphere, and historical political significance (discussions for achieving Independence).

Re Oberoi prices: one deal they used to offer--ask when you reserve-- was called something like the "Business Special" which included early check in at 9 a.m., late check out at 6 pm, "free" wifi, and buffet breakfast (which is excellent) and airport pick up. When i was there (October 2013) it worked out to be well worth the price, especially if you arrive early in the day, or your flight out isn't until the evening.

Thanks for all the information and suggestions!

We have decided to stay in Kolkata ... maybe Varanasi another time, I am already thinking I will be compelled to come back to India ... we will have three nights and pretty much four days, as we will arrive in the morning of our first day, and our flight out will be in the evening of the final day.

Have been working out the airline logistics, and it seems to be better for us to fly out from Kolkata to Delhi and then on a one-stop trip home from Delhi to San Francisco: Emirates with a fairly short layover in Dubai. The Emirates flight out of Delhi leaves at 4 a.m. - so we will fly from Kolkata the evening before and have our longest layover at the Delhi airport. Otherwise, flying directly from Kolkata, we were going to have an extra 10 to 12 hours, longer layover. The saving grace (well, not really "saving" lol) is that we are splurging on Business Class, which means we will be able to use the lounge in DEL.

Anyway, back to the topic at hand - Kolkata. Yes, we will stay at the Oberoi - looks wonderful. Thank you, CaliNurse, for the heads up on the better rooms. I had been looking at the walking tours - some look really great, and I will also check out Manjit's tours.

Mother Theresa's house sounds good, too. Is that different from the orphanage? We have a visit to the orphanage already booked for the morning we arrive in Kolkata - one of the nuns is supposed to take us through. Regarding this - we would like to do something to help. We can easily bring along some school-type supplies (we have done this in other more remote areas we have visited: Copper Canyon floor, Guatemala, etc) but I think those kinds of things are probably readily available in Kolkata, so maybe a donation of money would be more appreciated? Does anyone know about this?

So many great ideas for things to do and see in Kolkata! Thank you to everyone who responded to the post. I am already getting in anticipation mode for this trip, and it's not for another seven months.

(Now, to figure out what to do for our first couple days, which will be in Delhi. But that will be another thread soon!)

I have a similar itinerary next year and I think a better route back is

Etihad 255 CCU 20:25 to AUH 00:25

Etihad 183 AUH 02:15 to SFO 06:30

EY 183 uses Jet Airways planes (a bit inferior to their own in business, and still lie-flat) but the timing is good.

Wondering, I realize India is just about half-way around from California, where I live too, but for some reason I've always flown trans-Pacific to get there and back. I love stopping in HKG, and go other places in Asia. But when I've flown directly to Delhi I've also gone that way. Is there a particular reason why you're going the other way around?

You could likely fly directly out of Kolkata, east, and save the stop in Delhi. I haven't checked but it seems likely, connect maybe BKK or HKG. It might also amount to the same time, same number of stops.

Or you could look into a RTW ticket.

We've been checking and rechecking airlines and fares for this trip We looked at Etihad seriously, but then read so many complaints about lost luggage ... seriously, I was amazed at how many people had ended up without their bags when traveling on Etihad, and then to add insult to injury, the reviews said the follow-up customer service was appalling, and a lot of passengers never did get their luggage... for some it had been months.

Air India website said there were no business class seats on our route - ??? I was ready to pursue that further by phone, but then I read quite a few reviews that said Air India flights were very often late and the planes were old and dirty.

I looked at routing through Hong Kong or Singapore or other Asian gateways, but in the end Emirates had the best Business Class prices, best reviews overall in the price range, (comparable prices to Etihad), and the least amount of travel time. We could have flown with Emirates directly out of Kolkata, but the layover in Dubai was over nine hours long. By getting ourselves to Delhi, our Dubai layover will only be a little over two hours.

I realize that it's usually the people who have bad experiences who tend to post the majority of reviews ... but I found so many negative reviews for Etihad and Air India - on a number of different websites - that I just didn't want to continue with either of them.

For those less concerned about posh planes, more concerned about budget, while still having the extra space and service in business class, Airtreks.com had gotten me some amazingly affordable deals on 2nd & 3rd string airlines. Very good value for those who'd like business class on a relative shoestring.

Hmmm ... I wish I had known about Airtreks.com before I booked, but at this point it's water under the bridge.

I'm not completely concerned only about "posh" planes ... although I will admit, after many many many economy long haul flights over the years, I'm pretty happy that in my dotage I can afford to be a little more selective... and I still often do fly economy, because that means I get to take more trips.

My main concern is flight scheduling/connections working out and having my baggage arrive when I do.

And if "posh" had been my only concern, I definitely would have booked Singapore Air! Couldn't afford it, though ;-)

Airtreks specialize in RTW & multicontinent trips and also business class bargains, as I mentioned. They have contracts with lots of airlines to offer the lower fare 1-way segments. By posh, I meant as you surmised, not Singapore. However, what you get when you book through them is a travel agent who works hard, in my experience, to get you those good connections, they include (or did last time I bought from them) basic travel insurance and I use them also whenever I need to connect mileage award flights, for instance, to make a RTW trip or to connect with overland travel segments. They've been a really great resource for me for some pretty convoluted trips.

That's really good info - I'm going to keep it for future travel. Thanks!

HI Dreamer,

You made a good choice to choose Kolkata this trip!

re: airline logistics: sounds like you've already booked /paid for your fits from DEL with Emirates?

You're paying the fare in cash, but IF you by chance have FF Miles on One World ...what about Cathay Pacific? The first leg,from CCU to HKG, is on their affiliate DragonAir, with--at least this was so a yr ago-- just basic Business Class (big seats). I agree with Mme Perdu--HK makes a great stopover if you have time to get out, but even if you don't , Cathay's Business Class Lounge at HKG is excellent!!!! The stopover is about six hours, but I napped without problem on the long benches in the tea /coffee lounge area (who cares what people think when you're tired).Then the long haul from Hong Kong to SFO was totally comfortable up to date business class lie flat seats, in little "alcoves." So...if not too late...just a suggestion to check into pricing on Cathay, which nearly always gets good reviews.

Yup, about Air India...I'd never fly that airline. Re the lost luggage...this is one of the things that motivates me in general to do carry-on only! Etihad is trying very hard to compete with Emirates, but they've a long way to go. Also, not sure you've been before, but the Dubai Emirates Business Cl Lounge is , surprisingly, pretty mediocre per friends who've been in it. (I like good "free " food!)
And IF you'd up flying out of Calcutta, expect very little in the way of lounges. When i was there , i recall the Bus Class lounge was small, shared with all airlines. The one in DEL was better.

Re Sisters of Charity orphanage. I think there are several in Kolkata. I THINK the one you'd go to is near the "Mother House." Even if you go to the orphanage, or it is one a bit further away (I recall one further down Park nearer to the amazing old cemetery) highly recommend a visit to where she lived and worked. When she lived there, the sign outside the gate would say if Mother was "in" or "out" --it now always says "in." The small exhibit there about her life I found tremendously moving. Also,in reply to your question, recommend giving money vs clothes, etc. You can trust that it will go to help the children., and in terms of practicality, it is much easier. Or give money AND a few lightweight articles, maybe pretty decorative pencils?There are lots of patterns--even personlized -- avail at Oriental Trading Co online catalog. (I once had some inscribed "USA loves Uganda" with the American flag--the kids loved 'em). Or you could write the orphanage and ask. I will also ask a friend who worked at the orphanage and get back to you with an answer.

January will be quite hot in CCU, so plan your sightseeing for early morning, and you can lounge after at the Oberoi pool! Though it's nothing like Varanasi,you can see "bathing at the ghats" in the river area near Kamartauli (sp?) where you can see the artisans at work .But i expect you will have seen this from the boat on the Ganges.

Where do you get that boat? it sounds intriguing!!!!

Since you are going to Kolkata--imho a do-not-miss movie --one of my fav films of all time--is "The Namesake" in which you will see many scenes of the city (as well as of the Taj Mahal). The scene where he walks along and asks his wife if she loves him is at the park surrounding the Victoria Memorial; there are scenes of the Howrah Bridge and other parts of the city. It will add to your appreciation of Kolkata specifically, and India and its people in general.

CaliNurse - Thanks for all that great information!

As far as airline miles, I did check Cathay Pacific - I think it was more expensive and the travel time was significantly longer. We do have a few One World miles, but not enough for any segments of this trip. I have just switched out of Alaska Air Miles - we have had their credit card for about 20 years, and used the miles and companion fares many times, but with their hefty annual fee, charging of foreign transaction fees, and the decreased value of the companion miles (particularly for travel to Mexico, which was our main objective), I canceled the card a few months ago. I already had the Capital One, and now have the B of A Visa Travel Card, so am beginning to rack up some points. We have One World, because we have flown with partners, but not enough to matter.

We won't be in the Dubai Business Lounge more than likely, because our layover there is short both ways. It will be in Delhi that we will have a few hours on the way home in the middle of the night, and we will use the lounge there ... probably nothing special, but a place to rest and get ready for the journey home. I have to admit, flying the lay-flat business seats makes a huge difference with jet-lag on long flights over many time zones. We flew KLM Business from SFO to Prague last month - short layover in Amsterdam - and it felt as if we had gained an extra day at our destination after being able to actually sleep flat on the plane. It's definitely a splurge, and doubtful we will ever do it for total travel time under 10 hours, but SFO to DEL is a long journey.

I have not seen the movie, but I did read the book, Namesake, by Jhumpa Lahiri. She is an amazing Indian-American author, and I think I have read almost all her novels and short story collections. I liked that book very much - the "wrong" name given in the hospital that followed the boy! I will look for the film - sounds like something I would really like.

The boat is part of a charter we will be on for the week before we figure out our stay in Kolkata - it's the RV Ganges Voyager. We will fly to Kolkata, then board the boat and go north and then back south I guess, as we end up back in Kolkata. Some of the stops are Bandel, Kalma, Matiari, Khushbagh/Baganar/Mushibadabad, Mayapur, Chandenager. I think it will be a bit more "lux" than I am used to traveling ... my husband will probably love it, though.

Many years in my twenties spent traipsing around Mexico and Central America with a backpack and staying at $2-a-night hostels and shacks in cities and remote villages for me. That was before I went back to school to finish my education, married, raised a family. Even with our young children, we traveled many times internationally on a shoestring budget ... now we are both retired and we are able to travel on a different comfort level. It's different for sure, but I'm not disliking it ;)

CaliNurse - I think I may be wrong about the direction the Ganges river boat will go - I looked at the description of the cruise, and it says "down" the Ganges - so maybe it heads south and then back to Kolkata.

Always an adventure, isn't it?

It appears to me, using the map in the description on this website on your boat

https://www.vantagetravel.com/ourjou.../what-included

that the trip ending in Kolkata is entirely on the Hooghly River, not the Ganges (although part, if I understand it, of the Ganges watershed system). I realize I may be looking at a different cruise, but it sounds like the itinerary you describe. So beginning in or around Murshidabad on the Hooghly and going south, ending at Kolkata, also on the Hooghly.

Thank you - I was looking at maps, and couldn't make sense of the itinerary. It makes complete sense that it is on a tributary or similar.

So given you land in Kolkata, it also makes perfect sense, beyond the discussion above, to spend your remaining days in Kolkata.

Hi Dreamer.

Sounds like we have a lot in common besides Bay Area locale. I too traveled cheaply "roughing it" many decades ago. THose trips to Europe, Asia, and Africa made such an impression. I've had the good fortune to return to many places and yes, i now enjoy the somewhat more luxurious places (compared to hostels, outdoor parks, or doorsteps!). I like a combination of "levels" of accommodation.

Anyway... I heard back from longtime friend who worked in Kolkata with Mother Teresa. He advised cash donation as best.

Jhumpa Lahiri is actually in a scene in the film of "The Namesake"! (Where the baby girl gets her name.) And in the movie, Jhumpa's father's art work decorates the walls of the fictional house. The film should be readily available on Netflix or Amazon and is defiteily worth a look for many reasons, not least of which are wonderful shots of India! (For those going to the South of India, I've other film reccos with scenes to whet your appetites (: )

Oberoi's "Business Rate" s still available. It is called Business Travel Plus.

Designed to suit your business needs, the rate includes daily breakfast, complimentary internet access and one way airport transfer. The hotel also offers early check-in at 9 am and late check-out till 6 pm. Ideally suited for trouble free business travel with no booking restrictions and a simplified cancellation policy.

Check your February dates. Some of the rooms say "conditions apply"--maybe it's a holiday there??

I am entering this discussion late but am using all of the "first time India" discussions to formulate our trip which will take place in a few days. Has anyone else run into problems with booking getting proper notification from Haimark Ltd river cruises? This is the lower Ganges cruise SCDreamer is referring to. Four of us paid and were confirmed 1 1/2 year ago for this cruise, but in october this year until today, I have gotten nothing but back talk about whether this cruise will take place. Apparently, the rules have changed and we will have to find our way from the Kolkata Airport to the boat dock whereas the documents 1 1/2 years ago stated "transfers are included in cost". 3 days ago I emailed my contact and immediately got a response that person was no longer employed at Haimark. I am now calling Estonia (not Colorado or chicago) and have had to find all my correspondence to back up that I am a legitimate paid passenger. Anyone travel or is traveling with this company? I am at whits end. The other half of our trip is arranged by Arvind from Castle and King (through the many positive suggestions of this forum) and I so far am not worried about him...........Any advice or feedback others have?

I've found that Indian travel agents will go out of their way to help their clients have a smooth trip. What I'm suggesting is to ask your Castle & King agent to check locally for you and find out the current situation for your boat & connections. If Haimark drops the ball, C&K can likely fill in the deficits.

Thank you MmePerdu for your insight. Yes, I have asked Arvind of C&K for help at the last minute and responded immediately and without hesitation......... This cruise company is a US company and apparently has not learned much in the way of client relations.............so unprofessional!

I wonder if your American company actually owns & operates the river boat or if it simply acts as an agent for the owners. The ship name on their website is Ganges Voyager and I see one called Ganges Voyager II offered by another company: https://uniworld.com/en/ships/ganges-voyager-ii So it makes me wonder if your cruise will be managed by Haimark, or if a local owner will be in charge of your experience with the agencies simply collecting commissions for the sales. It could explain the lapse after they've got your money. If so, maybe Arvind can enlighten you and obtain the information you need from the actual operator.

If I need an investigation to be made, I would chose you, Mme Perdu.....thanks for your theory. However, Haimark built and owns the two river boats but leases it to company's to handle reservations. they just built the voyager II to sail January 2016 giving Uniworld the management of it. All correspondence and personnel are from Haimark so they are responsible. Haimark started as a US company in Colorado which attracted me since it had the US sanitary standards I was looking for after hearing a lot about sanitary practices in India. Google Haimark Ltd or Haimark luxury river cruise line and you will find the owners...............They are being sued and have thus filed chapter 11 in October which has greatly affected everyone who had the faith in this company. I've never experienced this during all my travels so am disturbed by all that has happened thus far. The owners dropped the ball on this one.................Thanks for taking the time to investigate and add another perspective. I greatly appreciate that.........

This is a self-reflective update on my above situation and looking into what MmePerdu has perceived. After calming down and Arvind, of Castle and King saving the day, I realized Haimark Ltd who owns both the Ganges Voyager and the Ganges Voyager II were too new in their business venture and those of us who booked directly with Haimark over 1 1/2 year ago got the raw end of the deal. When Haimark agreed to include other Agencies to do their bookings and take over the land arrangements, the direct sales clientele got left behind.
Moral to the story is to wait until a new company gets the kinks out of their organization before taking on their service (much like a new model of a car which hasn't had time to prove itself).........We will be leaving for Kolkata tomorrow to embark on the Ganges Voyager and hopefully nothing else will happen. Arvind has planned another week of great adventures for us after the cruise so I am sure we will have great memories of India when we return.

I am enjoying reading about the Padaw river trips right now..........thank you Kathie for sharing........

I'm glad to hear you enjoyed my account of the marvelous Pandaw Chindwin cruise. I hope your cruise goes smoothly. Do come back and tell us about it!

Glad to hear you have resolved this issue - hopefully!

I would love to hear how that part of your trip goes - we will be on the Ganges Voyager in February.