John G

Hi, my mother and step-father are going to Bangkok this summer and they were thinking of taking a day trip from Bangkok to Siem Riep to see Angkor Wat. Isn't there a musuem dedicated to those who died in the Kmer Rouge genocide located somewhere near here? Any information would be appreciated.

Justin

I visited Angkor Wat last year and heard nothing about the Khmer Rouge genocide musuem. As a matter of fact, my tourguide didn't mention any museums at all. However, there does exist a National Museum in Phnom Penh.

Peter N-H

Possibly you are thinking of the museum outside Phnom Penh? I don't have a Cambodia guide to hand, but the name is Tuol Slok or similar--a former school where many were held, interrogated, documented in frightening detail, and murdered. It's also possible to visit some 'killing fields' outside town.<BR><BR>The former school is a grim trip; the horror is very palpable even on a bright sunny afternoon. I didn't attempt the killing fields.<BR><BR>The National Museum in PP contains mainly artefacts from Angkor and other sites, and a little modern painting, as I recall. But nothing on the killings.<BR><BR>I believe I do remember seeing a sign to some exhibition to do with the slaughter on the left just as you leave Siem Reap for Angkor, but it looked from the signage to be merely a local attempt to cash in on the presence of tourists, rather than a respectable exhibition, but I could be wrong (both on it's existence, and on its value). I'm sorry, this probably isn't very helpful.<BR><BR>I spent six days wandering amongst the Angkor ruins, however, and it still wasn't enough. Pleasant and interesting as Bangkok's sights are, they pale in comparison to Angkor. Museum or no, encourage them to go.<BR><BR>Peter N-H<BR>http://members.axion.net/~pnh/China.html<BR>

Mary Anne Cook

The Museum you are referring to is in Phenom Phen. It is one of the most disturbing things I have ever been through. What makes it so graphic pictures were taken of the people who were inside as prisoners and killed. Colored pictures are painted on the wall by one of the few people who survived the terrible massacre. He is an artist still living in Phenom Phen. What is disturbing to me is many of the people are still in the government in some capacity, although Pol Poi is dead. These people who are responsible for the killings have not been brought to justice ,and it is no longer being pursued to bring them to justice. The Killing Field which there are many are outside of Phenom Phen and a memorial of skulls by age groups is near this Killing Fields. It is very sobering realizing man's inhumanity to man.

Scotters

It is certainly worth visiting Angkor Wat as previously said but not on a day trip. The cost of return air ticket is around $250 each and you really need 3-4 days to enjoy the temples. The musuem you refer to is in the capital Phnom Penh. The Museum of Genocide Crimes also known as Toul Sieng Prison, was once a former high school used by the Khmer Rouge as a detention and torture center. Choeung Ek – The killing Fields Choeung Ek, is located 15 kilometers south of Phnom Penh about a 45 minute drive over narrow dirt roads and through small villages. It was the execution area where the Khmer Rouge killed more than 40,000 compatriots (half of those from the Tuol Sleng prison) and buried them in at least 129 mass graves. This site is now idyllically surrounded by rice paddies and fruit orchards. In the center (built in 1989) stands a 30 foot high glass stupa that was erected to house the skulls and remains of tens of thousands of victims exhumed from these graves. These open pits are roped off and everywhere you can see bits of humane bone and clothing sticking out from the ground. It is a moving and sobering sight. Both places are not for the weak of heart and they will leave a lasting memory. There is a great travelogue by Andy Carvin on his visit to this city and especially the two sites above. It can be read on his web site at http://www.edwebproject.org/seasia/killingfields.html

J

When I was in Cambodia I went to the Toul Sleng site in Phnom Penh but not to one of the actual "Killing Fields" sites. However, some relatives of mine did go to a Killing Field site just out of Siem Reap in March, so it does exist. I don't know you your mother and step-father can even do Angkor Wat as a day-trip from Bangkok, let alone the Killing Field site. You should suggest that they stay a couple of nights.

Kathie

The temples at Angkor are certainly not a day trip. Remember that the name Angkor Wat, is the name of one (enormous) temple near Siem Reap, but the term has been generalized to refer to the many temples of Angkor. I spent a week there in December, and would have enjoyed more time. If your parents want to see the temples, they will need a minimum of three days, and they need to know they won't see all of the temples in the area. If they want to go to PP, that's one more day.

John G

I have decided to join my parents for this trip to Bangkok and Siem Riep. We will spend 5 days in Bangkok at the Oriental Hotel, then 3 days in Siem Riep at the Angkor Hotel. <BR><BR>I am finding it very difficult to find information on Siem Riep. You would think there would be a good guide book. (Fodor's devotes very little info. about Cambodia in its SE ASIA edition.)<BR><BR>We will probably get our visas here in the states because I don't think we want to stand in a line at the Siem Riep Airport to get a visa.<BR><BR>How long does it normally take to get your visa at the SR Airport? Since we only have 3 days, I don't want to waste valuable time. <BR><BR>I have visited the www.marlandc.com site to see the wonderful pictures of Angkor Wat. Thank you, Kathie and companion.<BR><BR>Yes, the museum I was thinking of was the former school that is now called Tol Seng. Unfortunately, we wont have time to visit Phenompenh.<BR><BR>Thanks to all who answered my query.

Hanuman

It didn't take us long to get our visa at the airport but we are Thais, fellow ASEAN country. I did not see any white tourist having trouble either with their visa approval.<BR><BR>There's a temple that has a "monument" or semi museum that shows a lot of human skulls and bones of the people who died during the Khmer Rouge reign. There is also a mine museum that shows all the various type of mines that was used and still in use around Cambodia.<BR>

Kathie

Glad you enjoyed our website.<BR><BR>We got our visas at the Siem Reap airport. It took a few minutes. <BR><BR>Also, we stayed at the Angkor Village resort which was wonderful. The atmosphere was lovely, with water gardens and traditional Khmer architecture. It also had a small swimming pool that was very welcome at the end of a long, hot day of temple touring. Take a look at www.angkor-village.com They also set us up with a car and driver.<BR><BR>Enjoy Angkor. It is truly one of the wonders of the world.

Peter N-H

In reply to John's query on Siem Reap books, the answer is to look for Angkor books, which cover all you need to know about the town, too.<BR><BR>There's an Odyssey Guide by Dawn Rooney which is fairly good, and the one most often seen. Make sure you get the latest edition--various versions are on sale around Siem Reap itself.<BR><BR>My apartment is in complete disarray, so I can't put my hand on it now, but I'd recommend over the Rooney book a larger format paperback guide which is better organised; published by Phaidon.<BR><BR>But both are erudite.<BR><BR>And for a hotel in Siem Reap, strongly consider the newly-refurbished 1930s Grand Hotel d'Angkor--old-world charm with modern facilities. Previous guests include Maugham and Chaplin. <BR><BR>Peter N-H<BR>http://members.axion.net/~pnh/China.html<BR>

J

There's also a new Sofitel in Siem Riep which was beautiful.

John G

Thank you, Peter, for advice on a travel guide for Siem Riep.<BR><BR>The Grand Hotel D'Angkor charges $260 a night for a standard room. I think that is a little ridiculous for Siem Riep--almost criminal. Im not even being charged that much to stay at the Oriental in Bangkok, which is one of the greatest hotels in the world.<BR><BR>Has anyone seen the Aspara Dance Troupe in Siem Riep? Are they as good as dancers in Phnom Penh, the dancers who are trained at the Fine Arts School under the tutelage of the sister of Prince Norodom Siunok?

Peter N-H

I'm not one to push high hotel rates, but if the rate quoted is the rack rate, then it shouldn't be too hard to beat it. <BR><BR>Remember, too, that this rate includes both a very good buffet breakfast, and dinner in a choice of at least three restaurants (of which I tried two), including one in the gardens outside where a dance performance is staged for you while you eat (at no extra charge, I believe).<BR><BR>This was charming, varied, and quite technically accomplished when I saw it (although not exactly ready for world tour), especially considering the Khmer Rouge are said to have gone out of their way to stamp out courtly tradition.<BR><BR>There is a great deal of budget eating around town, however, and some quite elegant restaurants in old colonial buildings in the centre of town, with a mixture of Khmer and French dishes. (Were the Khmer of the French the first to eat frogs legs?) There are also several bright, clean, straightforward, and perfectly functional hotels (large bathrooms, A/C, cable TV, fans, etc.) from only US$20 per night, if you bargain.<BR><BR>Peter N-H<BR>http://<BR>

Kathie

Peter, I think the rack rate at the Grand Hotel d'Angkor is well over $300. I, too, thought it was just plain silly in Siem Reap. That's why I recommend the Angkor Village Resort. It's lovely, you feel like you're in Cambodia, and the price is reasonable. I visited the Grand, and felt the atmosphere was "British Colony." While I do enjoy the old British hotels in a number of places, it felt a bit too imperialist for my tastes amid the poverty of Cambodia.

Peter N-H

Each to their taste, of course, and no one's arguing with any one else's recommendation. I only mentioned the Grand Hotel because I liked it. <BR><BR>It is, of course, French imperialist rather than British (the nearest British colonial territory would be Burma/Myanmar), which is to say it was one of two neighbouring hotels built to house visitors to Angkor during the French colonial era. The other was destroyed by bombing, while the Grand Hotel was the choice of the Khmer Rouge once in power, who destroyed much of the interior, and left bullet holes in the walls. Better the French than the Khmer Rouge, it might be argued; but there are, of course, other choices, although the current government would also seem to be a regrettable one.<BR><BR>The Angkor Village (which I visited) is an experience entirely manufactured for tourists, of course, and doesn't represent real Cambodia either, but the Grand Hotel has no pretensions to being other than what it is--an old colonial-era building carefully restored so as to maintain much of its original flavour (although the orientation has changed, there's a new conservatory-bar at the rear, and some newer buildings around a pool. The Angkor Village may not cost as much as the Grand, but it is still completely out of scale with the poverty surrounding it. But on these grounds we'd be forced to reject almost every truly comfortable hotel in Asia, outside Japan and a few other pockets. Even the $20 hotels I mentioned stand out 'amidst the poverty of Cambodia'.<BR><BR>It might be worth noting that its the old colonial centre which gives the town of Siem Reap what little attractiveness it has, and indeed what infrastructure Indo-China has, and much of what people go to see in Hanoi, Phnom Penh, etc. can be credited to the French. Much of Indo-China in fact promotes itself to visitors on these very qualities, of which the Grand Hotel is a part.<BR><BR>(I'm not arguing for colonialism here--but Indo-China's appeal is bound up with its colonial past, as well as with its own ancient traditions, and has very little to do with any modern developments.)<BR><BR>At the very least, the Grand can be treated a little like a museum of times gone by, and taking a Millionaire cocktail, as described in one of Maugham's short stories, is a pleasant way to pass an evening, resident or not.<BR><BR>Incidentally, an assistant manager there told me that their costs were high because the Singapore-based Raffles Group, which has also restored the Hotel Royale in Phnom Penh, flies in everything to PP, then up from there to Siem Reap. That little pat of butter for your morning toast has come a long way.<BR><BR>But chacun &agrave; son go&ucirc;t.<BR><BR>Peter N-H<BR>http://members.axion.net/~pnh/China.html

shopgirl

Actually, YES there is a small Killing Fields museum in Siem Reap. I was in Cambodia back in February and had a chance to visit it. It is about 10 minutes outside of Angkor Wat, on the way to/from the city. After seeing the one in PP I was really not interested, but as a courtesy to my driver, who had mentioned it and wanted to show it to me from my first day in SR, I agreed to stop by one afternoon on the way back. It was truly moving, and does not take more than 15 minutes to see.

John G

&lt;&lt;You can drop the attitude, sweetie, you only work in a shop, you know?&gt;&gt; <BR><BR>Thanks, shopgirl, for the info.<BR><BR>Peter and Kathy, don't argue on my account over the Grand Hotel D'Angkor. We have already decides to stay ta the Angkor Hotel. I visited their website and it looks like a very nice, reasonablly priced hotel, with modern bath, swimming pool, and air conditioning.<BR><BR>Now, if I can only find out some info. on the Aspara Dance Troupe.

Kathie

John, I don't see Peter and my conversation so much as an argument as just expressing different points of view. I certainly didn't expect that my comments would change John's opinion, and I doubt he expected to change mine. I feel the exchange has been very civil, and gives people who haven't been to Siem Reap some info on the various options available to them.<BR><BR>Have a great time!

Peter N-H

Looking for Apsara rather than Aspara may help.<BR><BR>Apsaras are the angelic creatures you'll see dancing in their thousands on the reliefs at Angkor.<BR><BR>Peter N-H<BR>http://members.axion.net/~pnh/China.html