I'm really enjoying your report. We are considering a return to Burma this year to see some of the places we missed our first trip.

DAY 10: YANGON and THE BIG SURPRISE!

Up at 5 AM, left tips, ate a little and had a calm but COLD ride on the water. I wore the thermal underwear under my long skirt so I could just quickly change. Got rid of the socks and gloves. Joyce didn’t go with us--had another assignment, but Goldenrock had a girl there to meet us and make sure we got off okay. (Think we could have handled that quite well, but still it is a nice touch.) Flight was late again-but only by 40 min. Still we were so grateful to have the tickets, we didn’t mind.

Win, our guide, met us at the Yangon airport. We drove downtown to Sule Paya, walked around a lot, had lunch at Feel Myanmar--had fish in red sauce, chicken curry with potatoes, rice, a circular dish of Myanmar salad (didn’t eat it), soup and greens, and dessert of a caramel sauce, noodles and tapioca all for 5800 Kyat. Fun to have a more typical Myanmar meal.

At first I wasn’t sure what Win would be like as a guide--a bit quieter, but we ended up having a fabulous experience with him--a surprising way to end our last day with a guide. Before lunch, we visited the Strand Hotel as I wanted to see the River Gallery and the textile place written about in Love from Myanmar. I did buy a couple of small things in another shop, but the highlight was seeing the art in the River Gallery by Myanmar artists. Fabulous pieces, I thought, for prices between $ 1000 and $ 6000, more than I wanted to pay. Still I loved the story of how the gallery director found them and the beauty there. So I actually took a photo of my favorite one. (I’m usually not quite that brazen.)

Outside in the car, I told our guide how much I liked the Myanmar art and he said, “If you know the artist’s name, maybe I can find out where he lives and we can visit him at his home.” So I enlarged the image of the art--on the back of my camera until I saw I had also photographed the plaque with his name barely decipherable. The guide wrote it down and said we’d visit another art gallery where he could ask some artist friends. While Bill and I poked around that gallery, our guide Win went to work, found the artist’s phone number, called him, and asked if we could visit. The artist agreed and we made our way over a half hour drive to his home (after getting approval from the agency since we were traveling beyond the usual boundary).

After stopping for additional directions 3-4 times, we drove up to a very simple home and he was waiting for us. He had us sit in wood chairs as he brought out large (very large) canvases that he was preparing for another show. He said, “You probably won’t like these,” as they were quite different from what I saw. I did like them very much, but between the price (less that at the Strand) and the huge size, decided I couldn’t use them. But then he brought out a smaller one very similar to the one at the Strand, but less than 1/4 as big. I was sold, so now we are the proud owners of an original by this very special artist. (Recently the gallery owner took a few of his paintings to Princeton in the US and they sold out! ) The artist wanted our photos as well as I wanted his, as he said we were the first foreigners to come to his house to buy art. What a highlight for us! The bellman at our hotel created a box with a handle around it and we were able to hand carry it all the way home.

It was fun seeing the artist’s studio and see what he was currently working on. He posed in front of his canvas. He gave us two lovely art brochures which featured his art.

Two other less dramatic things we did that day: visited the glass workshop and its tumbled jumble of a showroom. Joseph, our guide of the first day, had suggested we might find a nativity scene there--he was sure of it. I collect nativity scenes from various countries and we had already found a tiny clay one which was more than I expected in Myanmar. While there, we talked with an expat who searched through the junk and broken pieces to find a lovely large vase and a large round ball piece. I wasn’t crazy about the blown glass nativity scene, but ended up buying it anyway.

The second thing was visiting the Chinese market later on in the day when the light was getting good. Took several pix and watched a colorful dancing dragon as part of a competition for Chinese New Year. V. cool.

Back to the hotel, wrote out our trip eval, had the usual--although in a boring lobby bar area.

And Kathie--I think I'd already like a trip to visit one of the places you visited that we didn't! The southern part of the lake and also your first stop on the way to Inle Lake.

tooooo many early mornings for me... sleep in one day please..

DAY 11: YANGON without a guide.

We were thinking we’d probably just want to shop, putz around and revisit Shewedagon, so we didn’t schedule an agent for today, just the same driver and that worked out great. He spoke some English and understood even more.

Left the hotel at 8:30 AM to go to the jetty to see delta life. It was Sunday and therefore less busy, but still quite interesting. We saw ferries carrying people across the river, huge stacks of rice and yellow bags full of fertilizer, piles and piles of coconuts...... Mostly loved watching delta life as it goes on daily.

Next stop to see the white elephants, which both the driver and the guide of yesterday thought we would like, but---there were these two “white” elephants sadly chained up with a third gray elephant (to show the color difference?). Not exactly white, but a lighter tan with a pink cast. But it was interesting to read how important they were to the Myanmar history and culture. They assure good things to happen!

Next visited the huge marble Buddha, the largest marble Buddha in the world. We were also interested in the window washers precariously balanced on bamboo scaffolding as they washed the glass case around the Buddha.

Next to Scott’s Market where we searched out the first floor stores mentioned in Love from Myanmar. (Is that the right title?) We did find Yo Ya Maw, a small shop of tribal textiles and necklaces. 1 “top” I liked--to hang on a wall--in pink/magenta tones with bead work cost over $ 60.00(and I had already spent enough on wall art!), so I didn’t buy it. I did buy a pink/gray/black table runner or wall hanging that is quite interesting. While I was looking, Bill spotted a dissertation on Shan and Chin textile art, complete with photos of discoveries and examples and meanings. Turns out it was the owner’s and part of an ongoing project for him, so they had quite the discussion.

Downstairs at the main market, we found incense for a Buddhist friend in the States and some inexpensive pinkish fresh water pearls for our daughter.

Ashoka Restaurant. A lovely Indian Restaurant with great service and delicious food. Bill had Tandoori chicken and veg. curry and I ordered a prawn dish-- I forget the sauce, spicy. Also garlic nan and shared a lassi--a wonderful almost frozen yogurt drink that we both loved. Dessert followed (also had appetizers included) a mix between a pudding and an ice cream with pistachios. The dips for the crackery bread were fabulous--one was spicy/minty and one was sour/sweet. The reason we chose this restaurant is that it is owned by Joe and Lulu S. the Burmese couple in the States who oversee the Goldenrock Travel Agency. Service was great.

Next stop: Governor’s Residence. Saw both gift shops and wandered a bit. Lovely, of course. Drove around the area and saw some of the embassies.

Then off to Shwedagon land. Had our driver drop us off around 3:15 and we stayed until after 6 and got a taxi back to the hotel. Walked and photographed. One monk wanted us to sit and talk with him so he could practice his already excellent English. Loved having our last night there to soak it all in. Taxi was only 1500 Kyat back.

FYI, inside the relic box of Shwedagon are relics of the 4 Buddhas: a fast walking stick, a robe, a water filter, and 8 hairs from the last Buddha.

DAY !2: To the Airport

Had to tip the driver with dollars since we had run out of kyats, but he didn’t seem to mind. Had a good breakfast. Nightingale, from Goldenrock Travel, who had made all of our arrangements for us, met us at the hotel--a lovely young lady with graceful manners. She went with us to see us off properly at the airport.

Malaysia Air was delayed an hour, so we shopped in the airport stores and found some inexpensive last minute gifts. We had to check our two rollaboard bags, but that was the last time. We retrieved them in Kuala Lumpur and since we were in business and first class with plenty of space were able to hand carry everything home the rest of the way on both Japan Air and American.

Had a 9 hour lay-over at Narita Tokyo airport, so checked our bags in a supervised storage area and took the subway into the temple area of Tokyo and walked around there. Took us 1 1/2 hours to get there, so we didn’t feel we had enough time to travel on from there. Since we don’t speak Japanese, we weren’t always sure we were on the right train, but it all worked out okay. Had the best ever Japanese rice crackers!!! Freshly made on the street and quickly dipped in hot soy sauce. Yum!

Flight home was a joy. Our first first class. Our wonderful seats swiveled so we could eat dinner facing each other over a table and then later swiveled back to lie flat for sleeping. Heaven. The flight went so fast. There were only 4 in first class including us (out of 16) so we had great attention.

If anyone needs a tight packing list for how to manage with only one carryon apiece, I kept my list.

It may take me a month of so to get my photos together. Should I just post a note on this thread or list that as a separate topic?

I forgot to write about how my 9 year-old granddaughter said she'd remember Myanmar when she took the coins we gave her to school. It's like My-and-Mark, only without the "k."

Great report, yes I also loved the Myanmar system of announcing flights. Did they give you little stickers with the name of the airline on it?

Yes, silverwool, they did give us stickers with Asian Wings on it. But not everyone had stickers for their flights.

Also, my granddaughter said, Me-and-Mark, only without the K, not "my."

Also the Myanmar wine we liked was a Tempranillo (sp?)with Shiraz.

rhkkmk--we are really ready for some later mornings!!

Wonderful report!

By the way, you traveled like a "true Fodorite" by traveling the way you wanted to.

We didn't go to Mandalay, and we'd like to go next time and visit the ancient cities. We'd also like to go to Mrauk U like Jules did.

I think you would enjoy Sankar (southern part of Inle) and Kakku, one of the stupa forests. It's nice to have a list for "next time."

The Indian restaurant you mentioned, Ashoka, where is it located?

I need to set some time apart to totally absorb this great report as we are considering going to Myanmar at Christmas, am looking into the Pandaw cruise as one possible way of doing it.
Thanks for posting such a detailed report. agree with Kathie, you travelled just right ( I.e the way YOU wanted to)

photos? sounds wonderful. i have a number of students from burma and they'd love to see them too!!

What a wonderful report. Enjoyed every morsel and detail.

Sketchy Internet service where we are this weekend--so will reply to these when I get home tonight!

patty - I just read your excellent detailed report. We had the same guide Joyce as your did at Inle Lake during our 2007 Myanmar trip. She was fabulous - we even visited her home in Taunggyi and got to meet her daughters. I don't know if you read my trip report but if you want to read about more of our time with Joyce, you can click on my name and bring it up.

We are considering a return to Myanmar, possibly next February. We did not visit Mandalay on our last trip.

Looking forward to your photos...

I finally have solid Internet service--kind of reminded me of Myanmar when we couldn't get access!

Kathie, Ashoka Indian Restaurant is located at 28B Po Sein Road, Tamwe Township, Yangon, tel (951)555-539. Our driver knew where it was without giving him the address. The Lonely Planet listed it open only from 6-10PM, but it is now open 12-2:30 PM as well. We went for lunch.

And thanks to all for saying we traveled like true fodorites. Now I feel more a part!

Nanabee, how is it that you have students from Burma?? I will post a link to my photos when I get them ready. I still have not downloaded them. Just ordered a new desktop Friday night, and yes, Pook, I got the 27" iMac.

And Craig, I did read much of your report early on but don't remember reading about Joyce, so I'll check that out again. Would have loved to also meet her family. And another trip to Myanmar that you are considering sounds great.

Thanks for the restaurant address, Patty. I'm putting together recommendations for our upcoming trip.

Have fun planning, Kathie! That's a big part of the fun, I think.
And Craig, I reread what you wrote about Joyce. You really had a great encounter with her and her family!

Patti have just had a chance to read through your report. Thanks! Glad the flashlights came in handy & that you didn't stub your toes!
The photo you mention taking at Ubien of the stick fence is one that we have just had enlarged & framed & is now on the wall. Looks great. As you say virtually black & white & I find it very peaceful to look at.