Thanks for posting this. Your comments are immensely helpful for those planning a trip.

And, you've confrimed what I thought all along about apartment rental in India. If you don't mind my asking, approximately how much per night did you feel you needed to pay for a hotel room that was in an acceptable location and with acceptable comforts? While we like "nice" places, we certainly don't need or want luxury.

I've ridden a number of Indian trains without ever seeing a rat, although there was a mouse in the aircooled waiting room at Gorakhpur on my last trip. The trick with Indian train stations is to find the AC/first class/aircooled/ladies waiting room. The one at Coimbatore is positively luxurious, but it costs all of 15 INR an hour - probably why it was nearly empty. I thought I remembered Jodhpur as having a rather nice foreigners' waiting room, but it was 2001, and maybe it was at Jaipur.

I always prefer squat toilets to western in Asia (and some other places), especially on trains. More hygenic....

Believe me, there was no avoiding the rats which were outside the train station. You have to pass that area to get into the station. I do believe that they may only come out at night and the sun had not risen when we arrived to find our train.

Julies - Our hotels were relatively inexpensive, but remember that we traveled off season. We got a great deal at the Taj chain - most were running a special - 3 days for the price of 2. Also, we did not pay extra to have rooms with a view. We could care less as we rarely spend the time looking out the hotel window. The following were the approximate prices spent on hotels nightly:

Jagat Nivas:
Taj Khajuharo: $100
Taj Gateway (Agra): $90
Palace on the River (Varanasi): $55
Gateway Hotel Rawalkot (Jaisalmer)
Country Inn & Suites (Jaipur):

Thank you June & Mike!!!

The info on hotel pricing is very helpful because many people here seem to go the 5* route, and that is not us. 3 nights for the price of 2--you were lucky.

Sorry...did not intend to send that yet. Here's the completed list:

Jagat Nivas (Udiapur): $60
Vivanta Hari Mahal Jodpur by Taj : $142
Chandela Hotel - Taj (Khajuraho) $100
Taj Gateway (Agra): $90
Palace on the River - Rasmi Guest House(Varanasi): $55
Gateway Hotel Rawalkot (Jaisalmer)Approx $100
Country Inn & Suites (Jaipur): Approx $75 incl breakfast
Usha Kiran Palace Gwalior (Taj): Approx $100
Bundelkhand Riverside Hotel (Orchha): $54 incl breakfast
Wood Castle Hotel (Delhi): $61 incl breakfast

Jaisalmer:

We stayed at the Gateway Hotel Rawalkot, a Taj property which was comfortable, but not up to the standards of the Taj hotel that we had stayed at in Jodphur. The hotel was 6 kilometers from the city center, necessitating a tuk tuk or car whenever we wanted to go into town. That was no problem as tuk tuks are so inexpensive. The pool seemed nice, but again, no shaded areas. The staff assured us that umbrellas had been ordered. The dining room was adequate, but not that inviting. There was dining outside and music, but it was just too darn hot for us. We noticed that there were several large tour groups at the hotel during our stay. Wifi was available, but again for a fee. Most hotels in India have wifi but there is almost always a charge.

We debated a long time on where to stay in Jaisalmer and while the Taj was clean and well staffed, I regret not having stayed in town at the Nachana Haveli, in the old city just outside the gates of the Fort. It has tons of ambiance, is centrally located and has a delicious roof top restaurant. Be sure to check out the reviews from Karen & Bob who will be staying there in a few weeks. We did not see a room so cannot vouch for the same.

Jaisalmer is a town filled with tons of atmosphere and we had a wonderful time there. While we probably stayed one more day than we actually necessary, the extra time was not bad as it gave my husband time to recover from the pollution in Jodphur. After relaxing for a short time, we headed into town and decided to do lunch at the roof top restaurant Saffron, at the Nachana Haveli Hotel. Lunch was delicious and the view from the rooftop was great. I definitely recommend lunch here.

We had decided that on this day we would just wander the city, reserving the next day to actually go into the Fort area. We also checked out several tour companies to get some basic information on camel excursions. We did not want an overnight into the desert, but preferred instead to go by jeep or taxi to pick up a camel and then go out to the desert for the sunset. Since it was still very hot at night, the desert dancing and dinner was not an option.

As an aside, it is interesting to note how the local people remember your face and they seem to know where you've been and where you are going. Jaisalmer is a small town and everyone seems to know one another. One is instantly befriended by merchants, touts and guides that would like to offer their services. We met one young man who befriended us and walked around for quite a while over a two day period, hoping we would go to his shop. On the third day we met up with him again and I did feel compelled to go to his shop, but sadly the merchandise was of an inferior quality and nothing that I wanted to purchase.

Besides the people watching, picture taking and wandering through the streets of the city surrounding the fort, one should take time to visit some of the elaborate havelis, which are impressive for their lavish latticework. On our first and second day we visited the following three Havelis which should not be missed.

Salam Singh Ki Haveli -- This Haveli was built about 300 years ago and a part of it is still occupied. Salim Singh was the prime minister when Jaisalmer was the capital of the princely state and his mansion has a beautifully arched roof with superb carved brackets in the form of Peacocks. Best observed from outside – not as impressive inside as other Havelis.

Patwon ki Haveli -- one of the largest and most elaborate Haveli in Jaisalmer and stands in a narrow lane. It is five stories high and extensively carved. It is divided into six apartments, two owned by archaeological Survey of India, two by families who operate craft-shops and two private homes. There are remnants of paintings on some of the inside walls as well as some mirror work. I really enjoyed this Haveli.

Nathmalji-ki Haveli -- Two architect brothers built it in the 19th century. Interestingly, while one concentrated on the right, the other concentrated on the left and the result is a symphony epitomizing the side-by-side symmetry during construction. Paintings in miniature style monopolize the interior walls. Mighty tusker elephants carved out of yellow sandstone stand guard to the Haveli.

We hired one of the local guides on our first day and enjoyed it immensely when he walked around with us, taking us into a Jain Temple, explaining about Jainism and about the history of the Havelis that he showed us. We learned about the water shortage, how the havelis were constructed without cement and water, using an interlocking construction system. He also explained how the people of Jaisalmer managed to conserve their water through its multiple uses. We learned that wedding invitations are painted and posted on the side of one's home. It was unfortunate for us that we never experienced a wedding celebration as we were not in India during the wedding season.

We also learned how Indian people can easily identify one another, the region that they come from, their caste, occupation, as well as their religion, based upon the type of saris worn by the woman, their jewelry, the men's head turbans and the shape of their mustache. All very interesting.

Our guide took us to a government cooperative to look at the beautiful handicraft (of course hoping we would buy something). Several of the beautiful bed spreads were very tempting, but we passed on those as we really did not need another spread. The handiwork was just beautiful. After we were shown the handcrafts, we were able to discern the difference between textiles made by the Muslims, Hindus and the desert people. Incidentally, just inside the fort's gate is a shop that had beautiful shawls and scarves. I did not buy anything, thinking that I'd be back or that I'd find something later and I still regret not making a purchase at that time.

Over the next two days we continued to wander. One day we ate lunch at a place called the Jaisal Treat Restaurant. It is not far from the circle outside of the city gate. The food was a bit oily, but tasty. There was no atmosphere, but the air conditioning was terrific and there was free wifi.

Another day we had lunch at Trios which was good, although a bit less atmospheric that Saffrons. My husband enjoyed it more than Saffrons as the dish he had was less spicy. I thought Saffrons was better. We did enjoy our conversation with the owners of the Trio restaurant.

On our second day we set out for Jaisalmer's ancient fort, built in 1156, and perched high on a pedestal overlooking the city. Jaisalmer is referred to as the Golden City and the fort is unique as it is the only "living" fort in India. The cobbled streets of the fort are still alive with the hustle and bustle of everyday life. We spent a good part of a day wandering though the alleys and passageways of the fort, admiring the ornately carved windows and balconies, visiting the temples and watching the people. As my husband was still feeling a bit under the weather, we decided to wait for the following day to visit the Palace and we returned to our hotel after lunch to relax until our camel adventure that evening.

We decided to have the hotel make our arrangements for our camel safari and they had a taxi driver pick us up at 4:00 pm. On our way out to pick up our camels, we stopped at Ladawa, which was the original capital before Jaisalmer. The only thing remaining there today is a Jain Temple which was lovely and well worth stopping at. The guide there opened up several of the doors so that we could view the various gods, and of course so that he could get a tip.

Once we arrived at the area where camels and their drivers were congregating awaiting tourists like ourselves, we negotiated a camel ride at 300 rupees per person. We did not want to share a camel as that meant that the driver would merely be leading the camel by a rope. It would have been cheaper had we shared one. This was not to be a private ride into the desert, but rather a caravan of camels setting off for the dunes. It was all fine with us. We loved the experience of riding the camel, even though it was for only a short period. When we reached the sand dunes (Sam Dunes), we dismounted and walked around awaiting the sunset, watching the other tourists, taking pictures, allowing people to take pictures of us and with us. It was all great fun. There was music, people dancing, and children, as was often the case, asking for money to take their picture. Our camel drivers were great and offered to take pictures of us. This was a very enjoyable few hours. Our ride back after sunset was less than enjoyable. The taxi driver was horrendous, driving too fast, flashing his brights when other cars were coming at us and keeping them on, blinding the oncoming drivers. We noticed that the other drivers did the same. We were greatly relieved to arrive back at our hotel in one piece.

On our last day we set out back to the Fort and headed for the Palace which we still had not seen. Once again the English Audio tour was well worth the price and very informative. We enjoyed seeing yet another palace, although we were beginning to see many similarities in the palaces at this point. Our overnight train out that evening was scheduled to depart at 4:20 pm. Our hotel allowed us a late check out, therefore after finishing the palace tour, wandering a bit further and having lunch, we returned to the hotel to shower and relax before heading to Jaipur.

We were taken by taxi to the train station, only a short distance from the hotel, where we awaited our train. Thankfully, no rats this time. The Jaisalmer train station is fairly small and it was easy to find our train once it arrived. We had reserved a four person 1st class sleeper cabin, but the other two passengers never showed up. The train left on time and rode smoothly upon the tracks, however, the beds were hard as a rock, making it most difficult for us to sleep through the night. We arrived in Jaipur at 4:50 AM and hired a tuk tuk to take us a very short distance to the Country Inn and Suites.

Fantastic! Loved this segment. I've got to go back and get to Jaisalmer. Keep it coming!

Thanks Karen. I'm sure blip would enjoy jaisalmer too!

I was disappointed with the two Gateway properties I stayed at on my recent trip - Taj only in name! They were my splurges, I was speniding in the 1500 to 2000 INR range most of the time, and the cheaper places did have free wifi. I particularly liked the new Keys chain, but they are targeting the Indian business market more than tourists,

I loved Jaisalmer. I stayed in the fort itself: the place was very basic but the view from my window seat was lovely.

You say you probably stayed one day too long in Jaisalmer. How many nights were you there?

We arrived at 11:45 on a Thurday so we had 1/2 day then, Friday, Saturday and almost a full day on Sunday - we left at 16:30 by train. We took long naps each day, but that was due to the heat and the fact that my husband was still recovering from his asthmatic episode. We enjoyed our time there and if you love to shop, I am sure you could spend the extra time browsing the many stores.

We arrived in Jaipur by train at 4:50 AM and headed just a short distance away to our hotel, the Country Inn & Suite. We should have requested an early check in, but didn't think to do so. We waited in the lobby until about 6:00 when a room became available. After freshening up, we headed to breakfast which was included in the price of the hotel room. While we were not officially supposed to have breakfast on the morning of our arrival, the hotel comped us on this day. The breakfast included a large assortment of Indian food along with an omelet station. I believe the buffet opened at 6:30. The hotel was well situated and we enjoyed our stay here. The beds were extremely comfortable and the room modern and clean.

More later...

dgunbug- Great report! It's both helpful and entertaining...looking forward to more.
Did you make all hotel reservations yourself?

Thank you iamles. It is always encouraging to hear that someone is reading and enjoying a report. All hotels were reserved on our own by contacting the hotel directly.

I'm reading along and enjoying too!

I'm sad to say I'm interested in the details of your husband getting pickpocketed. I hope that was not a huge problem for you - what a bummer. My mom & I leave for India in a couple of weeks and I'm wondering about wearing moneybelts or not. Hate to but maybe in crowds we'll have more peace of mind.

Leslie - you should absolutely wear a money belt. Both my husband and I wear money belts, carrying the majority of our cash in it and only money for the day in our pockets. I keep the passports on me along with extra credit cards and insurance info. We also have a copy of all credit cards and our passports kept in another place. Unfortunately, and for no good reason, my husband also had his driver's license, a debit card and two credit cards in his wallet with about $200.00. The money was not all that much, but the cards were a pain to cancel. The number on the MasterCard was incorrect for international calls and we had to have our kids at home contact the credit cars company.

My husband was pickpocketed at the lotus temple and it soured him on going into any more temples or mosques after that. At the lotus temple you will be given a burlap back and told to put your shoes in it, then carry it to an area to be checked in. I gave my husband my shoes and walked ahead. Instead of taking his shoes off ahead of time, he took them off near the counter and in the crowd he was jostled by three men working together to steal money and wallets.

Wow dgunbug - so sorry to hear that! I loved the lotus temple.

Leslie - absolutely wear a money belt - under your clothes and don't access it in public. I have one day's worth of money in my wallet, sometimes with a credit card, and that's it unless I need to visit an ATM or cross a border. Great peace of mind!

I get the international phone numbers for my cards before I leave home, but I've recently found that you can call 1-800 numbers for free using Skype.

We got the international number off the cc but the number was incorrect and it was also
Incorrect on the Internet. The cc company acknowledged that the numbers were wrong. It was a royal pain trying to contact them.

Jaipur - We decided to get an early start and headed by tuk tuk for the market area around 8:30 AM. We were surprised to learn that the stalls do not open until 10 AM, so we strolled toward the City Palace and enjoyed watching the traffic and people as they began their day.

Jaipur is referred to as the pink city, a highly idealized description of the terra-cotta-colored lime plaster that coats the old part of the city's walls, buildings, and temples. The reasons for painting the town pink are unknown, but various theories have been tossed about. As the second largest city in Rajastan, following Delhi as number one, we had heard that Jaipur is not one of Rajasthan's most attractive cities and that after visiting the City Palace it's probably wise to concentrate on sites farther afield: Amber Fort, first royal residence of the Maharajas of Kachchwaha, lies 11km (7 miles) north; and popular Samode Palace is an hour's drive away. However, we really enjoyed the hustle and bustle of this lively city, the people, food stalls, etc.

Since City Place did not open until 9:30, we decided to visit Jantar Mantar, built by King Jai Singh II between 1727 and 1734 and literally meaning "calculation instrument". More than just a curious collection of sculptures, each structure at the intriguing Jantar Mantar observatory has a specialized astronomical function. There are 14 structures in total, which measure time, predict eclipses, and track stars. The most impressive one is the huge Samrat Yantra sundial. At a height of 90 feet (27 meters), it has a shadow that moves roughly the width of a person's hand every minute. There are plenty of guides for hire as one walks in the gates and we enjoyed our tour of these instruments.

Just next store is the magnificant City Palace. It's easy to see that the royal family of Jaipur was one of the richest in India. The huge complex of courtyards, gardens, and buildings blend both Rajasthani and Mughal architecture. The Peacock Gate is exquisite, and contains an alluring display of detailed workmanship featuring bright peacocks. Today, the royal family lives in the graceful Chandra Mahal (Moon Palace) bordering the courtyard. Also inside the City Palace complex is a museum, art gallery, and a display of royal costumes and old Indian weapons. While we enjoyed the palace, we were beginning to feel like there was a great similarity between the various palaces we were visiting.

Upon leaving the palace, we were approached by a nice young man, approx 30 yrs old, who spoke excellent English and who convinced us to hire his services as a tuk tuk driver for the next day when we would visit the Amber Fort and surrounding areas.

Not far from the City Palace is the intricate and fascinating facade of the Palace of the Winds, which is probably Jaipur's most recognized building. Constructed in 1799, it has five floors that contain rows of small windows and screens. Wind used to flow through the openings, giving the palace its name. Legend has it that the palace, which overlooks the main street of Jaipur's lively Old City, was built so that the women of the royal household could watch the streets below without being observed.

We continued our walk and ended up in front of the Raj Mandir movie theater, so we decided to take a reprieve from the heat and see a Bollywood movie. The movie showing was "The Body Guard" and while we could not understand all that was said, we got the general gist and were well entertained for a few hours. It was interesting that the line to purchase movie tickets was separate for men and woman - I couldn't figure out why as everyone sat together anyway. At the recommendation of one of the woman in the line, we paid for the more expensive tickets and our seats ended up in the balcony. I think the cheaper tickets would have been better (closer to the screen).

After leaving the theatre, we wandered around a bit further and found ourselves at the Indiana restaurant which had been recommended by other Fodorites. The restaurant is set in a lovely garden and there is entertainment nightly (music & dancing). We asked after the owner, who we heard had studied at Purdue University in Indiana, USA as my husband has a family member who had studied there. The owner, an extremely engaging 85 year old gentlemen joined us at our table and we had a most enjoyable discussion with him which lasted approximately one hour prior to even ordering our dinners. One of the dishes that we ordered (I think) was chicken jaisalmer which came with veggies and was one of the best dishes we had while in India. The portions were large and we could hardly finish our dinners. Satisfied with a great meal in our bellies and after having spent a most enjoyable day in Jaipur, we returned to our hotel to relax for the rest of the evening.

i'm loving, loving your report and K is writing everything down... thanks for going before us so that we can gain from your experiences...

about the length of stay. india is the most difficult country we have travelled in, but also one of the most rewarding. everything is a bit of a hastle... that is where a driver, at your service, helps. he clears the way for you in many ways and makes things easier. he takes care of lots of details---laundry, etc... but i think that the haste you move at makes the difference---don't hurry... spend at least two nights in every place and 3 is better... go to less places if time does not permit. eat carefully. i see no reason why 4-6 weeks is not easy... we don't mind beggers or touts or people selling you things---we often enjoy it---take advantage of them, as they attempt to take advantage of you... make a game out of it... smile, smile and smile... I do not use a money belt, a pouch or anything like that---i use common sense and am always on guard, but i don't let it ruin my day. having been taken advantage of twice recently in spanish speaking countries, i know how your husband did fell a bit jaded after the robbery... i solve it by never returning... its only money...

KEEP IT COMING.... what is your next trip?? B

We are still arguing about next years trip. China is on the table, but my husband was hoping to take a break from Asia after having traveled three years in a row. Southern Italy was considered but we've heard that prices are sky high and there is an anti American sentiment due to the economic climate...they seem to be blaming the USA for their financial woes. Israel is another consideration, but we've both been and it would probably be more about visiting relatives. I'm thinking we are going to china - isn't that your next big trip bob?

Bob - I should probably just ask you where we are supposed to go...after all, you followed is to vn and then India. This is becoming a regular pattern!

the plan today is shanghai, X'ian and maybe HK, then thailand for the month of november...

Have you considered Sicily? Prices not so high. Or there are the Balkans just a ferry ride from Italy - some parts a bit pricey, some not.

Thursday - if we do Italy, it will be Rome southward so Sicily was definitely in the picture. We've also considered the balkins.

Day two - Jaipur

We were picked up by tuk tuk promptly at 10 am and headed to the amber fort. Before getting there our driver suggested that we stop at Kanal ghati, a lovely garden/temple complex where we were told that many weddings and events are held. This site was pleasant for a short stop.

The tuk tuks and cars are prohibited from going up to the fort and must remain in the parking lot down below. We contemplated riding the elephants up, but having ridden elephants before, we opted instead for the jeep ride up which was far cheaper. Of course there were those who chose to walk up to the fort, but being old and decrepid and wanting to conserve energy, we decided that option was not the best for us. We rented the audio guides again and thought they were excellent, although at times it was difficult to find the next number. We thoroughly enjoyed our time at this fort and spent about four hours there.

We returned back to town and our driver took us to a shopping area that supposedly sold to the retailers on the streets. Who knows if this was true, but in any event I found bangle bracelets that I liked and bought to give as gifts for the family. All this exhausted my husband who hates to shop, so we returned to our hotel for much needed showers.

But before getting to the hotel, we made a quick lassi stop at the highly recommended lassie
Walla shop that is not to be missed. There are actually three shops next to one another and all named the same. Our driver suggested the one dating back to 1944, as noted on their sign. Do yourself a favor and buy a large sweet lassi - no flavor. We ordered the small version and had to get seconds!

We were pretty exhausted from our day out and decided to remain in the hotel after our nap. Dinner was ok, but not memorable. We did enjoy our stay at this hotel though and would recommend it for it's good location, breakfast, and cleanliness.

enjoyed the fort and spent about four hours there.

Ooops ...last line didn't belong there. Guess I should preview first.

I LOVED the lassis - banana was my favorite. Did you get them in the clay cups?

Yes - I had mango one but it was thick and not thirst quenching. We loved the plain lassi.

Thanks for the advice - we'll wear the dreaded money belts.

So fun that you went to a Bollywood film!

I'm making restaurant notes from your report (relied on your Vietnam trip report heavily too for recommendations!). Sounds like you've had no tummy problems. I was thinking to only do veg dishes but you've been eating chicken with no problems?

No problem with Delhi belly till our final day - more on that and the flight from he'll later.

The next morning at 7:30 AM we were picked up by our driver from Castle and King. This nice gentlemen would be our driver for the next 7 days and we were pleased that his driving was so skillful, for it is no easy task to drive in India. While our driver's English skills were a bit limited, we were able to communicate and he was courteous and helpful at all times, providing us with drinks and making sure we were comfortable.

Just 10 kilometers outside of Jaipur, on the way to Agra, was our first stop at the Galta Kund, also known as the Monkey Temple. The temple is dedicated to the monkey god Hanuman and hundreds of monkeys roam around the grounds, waiting to be fed by visitors.

The temple complex is located in a rock gorge amidst springs and reservoirs and it is considered auspicious to bathe in the holy waters of Galtaji. Thousands of people come every year to take a dip in the tanks to rinse out their sins. It was great fun to watch both the monkeys roaming the grounds and the people bathing in the water. The scenery is beautiful and this was a stop not to be missed.

Our next stop was Chand Baoli, the famous step well situated in the village Abhaneri, a small town village located at a distance of 95 KMs from Jaipur, on Jaipur-Agra road in Rajasthan, India. It is located opposite Harshat Mata Temple and is one of the deepest and largest step wells in India. It was built in 9th century and has 3500 narrow steps and 13 stories and is 100 feet deep. This step well, as well as others in India, became not only sources of drinking water, but cool sanctuaries for bathing, prayer and meditation. The site was spectacular from above and one can only imagine what the view is from down below. You weren't going to find me climbing up and down the narrow steps, but I'd sure like to hear from anyone that decides to venture down all those stairs.

Our final stop before arriving at Agra was to FATEHPUR SIKRI, capital of the Mughal Empire from 1571 to 1585, during the reign of Emperor Akbar. The city was built around the abode of Sheik Salim Chishti, a mystic who had advised the childless Emperor Akbar. Shortly after giving his advise, Emperor Akbar's wife gave birth to his first son. Fatehpur Sikri was a glorious city with its beautiful architecture, constructed of red sandstone, but it was built in an area that had a low water supply and for this reason, the city was abandoned shortly after Emperor Akbar’s death. The palace buildings and mosque, which is still in use, are well-preserved even after 400 years. Although Fatehpur Sikri is a ghost city there is much to see and it was well worth a stop on the way to Agra, or as a day trip from Agra.

We arrived at Agra in the late afternoon at approximately 4 pm, quickly checked into our hotel and then proceeded to Tomb of Tmad-ud-Daulah (Petite Taj Mahal) - a precursor to the Taj Mahal and a masterpiece of dome-less class of Mughal tombs. It is made in white marble and marks the transitional phase from red stone to white marble, from the Akbar's tomb, Sikandara, to the Taj Mahal. It was built in 1611 by Nur Jehan, wife of Mughal emperor Jehangir, as a mausoleum of her parents. It was the very first tomb in India that is entirely made out of Marble.

Still anxious to see the great Taj Mahal, we made our way across the Yamuna river to Mehtab Bagh, a recently spruced-up riverside park where one can view the Taj from its backside. It is from there that tourists mill about, just a stone's throw away from the Taj to watch the sun set. It is said that on those very grounds, it was Emperor Jehangir's intent to build a black temple to compliment the Taj Mahal and that such would have been his own resting place with a pathway between the two great structures.

We returned to our hotel for dinner and an early night's sleep as we intended to return to see the Taj the following morning at sunrise.

Taking notes still. We are really looking forward to our time in India after reading your report. Waiting for more.

we have been advised by an indian friend that we should not drink any lassies for health reasons?

Only the bhang lassi, rhk. That's completely safe...

We were assured that the only water added to the lassi at this place was filtered water. We limited our lassi consumption to only a few places - the others all hotels. This one in Jaipur was by far the best.

Hmmm, I drink them partly FOR health reasons, lol. It's lukewarm chicken you should be avoiding!

Sometimes the piping hot chicken can get you ill as well.