Java or Sri Lanka?
 

I'm beginning to start planning next Spring's trip to SEA, probably in April or May. We'll be going back to Thailand, BKK of course, Anatara in the Golden Triangle, possibly Ko Samui. I want to add on another country, somewhere I haven't been yet and Java, Indonesia, and Sri Lanka look like likely candidates. I've wanted to travel to Java for quite some time but lately Sri Lanka is looking interesting. For those who have been to both, which would you suggest, and why? We're interested in temples, lush scenery and luxury hotels. (The DUSUN JOGJA VILLAGE INN in Yogyakarta is looking quite good.)

Have never been to Sri Lanka, although I'm going next month and am very excited. I have been to Java twice. While Yogyakarta/Borobodur is fabulous, it strikes me that this is a time to support Sri Lanka. I might also think twice about the safety issue on Java. On the luxury hotel front, there are a couple of new Aman hotels in Sri Lanka (we're staying in one next month) as well as one in Borobodur.

I think Aman resorts are a bit more than I want to spend. $700 per night is a bit too much! Safety issues don't concern me too much, Sri Lanka isn't the safest place either so I'm not basing my decision on that. Can you tell me what you liked about java?

laurie, I've not yet been to Sri Lanka, but I loved Java. Borobudur is the largest Buddhist monument in the world and is truly spectacular. I also enjoyed Prambanan, the complex of Hindu temples, and we drove to the Dieng Plateau which was lovely. Jogja has a lovely kraton to explore (as does Solo). You can see the Ramayana ballet in an open-air hall near Prambanan. Also, I am a collector of crafts, and that area has the best crafts of anyplace I've ever been. I'd go back in a minute. Indeed, we were scheduled to go there in November 2004, but I just couldn't get the logistics to come together as we were traveling at Hari Raya and the flights were full.

Thanks Kathie. That is certainly helpful. I've wanted to go to Java for the last five years or so, ever since I read an article about it in a travel magazine (in fact, I still have that particular issue). Can you tell me where you stayed, restaurants, etc? I don't know why but in the last week or so, I've started to give Sri Lanka some thought as well. After traveling to so many different places, I'm now always looking for that "exotic" destination. It takes a lot more to excite me these days and Borobudur seems like it may just fit the bill :-)

laurie, it was a LONG time ago that I visited Jogja, and I really don't have current info on restaurants and hotels for you. I had planned to stay at the Hyatt this trip - it had not yet been built when I was last there.

If you decide to go, I'll look back at my travel journal, as there were a number of places we visited that were really special. As I mentioned, the crafts are fabulous. I bought some puppets that had been used at the kraton (they are re-sold after a number of uses - they all have a sort of coat of arms on them). We also shopped at the place in Solo that makes the batik patern for the kraton in Solo - they had the most gorgeous batik I've ever seen.

Kathie, I appreciate that. I'll keep you posted. I just dragged out that magazine with the Java article and it's looking better and better. If I decide to go to Java, I'll need to decide where exactly to go and budget my time. Since I'm combining it with a trip to Thailand, I'll probably have only a week there, unless I can talk my husband into taking more than a 2 week vacation!! It happens now and then.

I have not - yet - tho it is on my agenda been to Java but I ADORE Sri Lanka. IMO it is one of the best kept secrets in Asia. It is VERY reasonable, has stuff to suit every interest - wildlife, city, tea plantations, nature - is small hence stuff is easily accessible. The only thing is weather wise it will be warm in the months you are considering and flight wise Indoanesia may work better if you are coming from the West Coast esp. Cilck on my name and read my earlier posts re Sri Lanka.

I live in Indonesia and I travel quite frequently to Central Java. I've been to Sri Lanka many times, but not in the past 10 years so though I don't have an exact basis of comparison, I have a pretty good idea.

Sri Lanka is a country with a variety of destinations -- beach, mountain, rain forest, for example. There's a lot to do and the people and culture are lovely. There is a very highly developed tourist industry with a lot of options in accomodations.

The area of Java that is most people visit is the town of Yogyakarta combined with Borobudur temple. Eastern Java including Surabaya and Mount Bromo also has some spectacular scenery, but is less traveled. (Although Jakarta is also in Java I wouldn't recommended it as a holiday destination.) The tourist industry in Central Java is fairly well developed, but not as sophisticated as Sri Lanka (and no where near Bali or Thailand).

Anywhere you travel in Indonesia you will experience unparalleled hospitality and profound natural beauty, but at the same time Java is a densely populated third world country. Yogya is no exception -- it is hot (all year), crowded, polluted, difficult to navigate. The culture is totally fascinating and the arts and handicrafts superb, but sometimes the charm gets overwhelmed by the negative aspects.

I don't know anything about the Dusun Jogja Village Inn. In town in Yogya I usually go for the Hyatt as I like to be a bit out of the center and the Hyatt has lovely grounds which provide some breathing space.

If you can splurge on just one night, the Aman is worth every penny. They don't advertise this, but most likely you can get a steep discount if you call them directly as their business is soft. I would think the "real" rate is around $500. What is special about the Aman, aside from the incomparable service and beautiful ambience, is that they will get you up at 4:30 a.m. and take you to Borobudur before it officially opens for sunrise over the mountains. This is a magical experience.

Another place that is highly recommended is the Losari Tea Plantation. I haven't been there yet, but the manager at the Aman says it is quite nice.
http://www.losaricoffeeplantation.com/default-f.htm

In addition to the sights of Yogya town and Borobudur, there are other temple complexes, notably Prambanan, 10th Century Hindu, plus more remote but equally impressive archeological sights. There is also lots of mountain trekking, musica and dancing, arts and crafts, tea and coffee plantations and an overall mystical aura. It's not for everyone, but people who are interested in culture and history tend to love Central Java.

Thanks hobbes and marmot for the info. Right now I'm leaning a bit more towards Java, probably because it's been on my mind to go there for the last several years.

The reason I like the Dusun Jogja Village Inn is because it looks luxurious and not like a western cookie cutter hotel, and the rates are extremely reasonable. I have always wanted to stay at an Aman resort so I will look into that as well, but the Dusun looks fabulous (especially the VIP suite which is only about $75 per night). If I do go to Java, I will most likely stay a night at the hotel that is right inside the Borobudur complex,this way I can see the sunrise and not have to get up at 3am.

I'll continue doing my research before making a final choice as I have plenty of time to plan this. I'd like to start making concrete reservations in October when I return from Malaysia.

marmot, I've looked at the Losari Tea Plantation and it looks wonderful. I've bookmarked it and it's most definitely on my list of possible hotels. Thanks for that link.

laurie, I look forward to hearing your hotel reports on the Dusun and others. One thing I can say about just about any hotel in Indonesia is that it will most likely be very clean and the people will be very friendly. The service and design may be variable. The problem with Yogya is not the hotels but Yogya itself which, as I said, is really a big, crowded third world city. It's fascinating and full of interesting things to do, but I really wouldn't call it charming. If you stay for a few days you'll need an escape.

On restaurants outside of hotels, good luck! If you find any please let me know. Again, Indonesian food is good and the presentation can be lovely, but the whole concept of restaurant is somewhat lagging.

marmot, thanks for the information. It looks like Java is winning over Sri Lanka. Do you think 2 nights in Yogya is enough, if I also spend a night at Borobodur? Or is there enough to see that 3 nights is worth it? When I'm ready to escape, that Lorsari Tea Plantation looks very good, as do some of the Tugu Hotels, which are in Blitar and Malang. check their web site

http://www.tuguhotels.com/

These hotels look gorgeous and pretty inexpensive for what you (apparently) get. I'm hoping to combine sightseeing and relaxation. My husband can't stand it when I drag him all over and don't give ourselves a chance to unwind. Java seems to be a perfect blend.

Unfortunately it will be quite awhile before you get any reports of hotels or restaurants as I'm not going until next April or May. I'll most definitely do a complete report though. I just did my first ever trip report (on Costa Rica) and found it's a great way to remember details and have a journal of a trip.

Any other suggestions are most welcome.

Laurie

The name of the resort is actually Losari "Coffee" Plantation. It is built on a working coffee farm and they offer tours demonstrating how they grow and produce true Java-nese coffee.

I have not been there myself, but have heard wonderful things. If we decide to go, we will book the steam train. This half-day trip comes hightly recommended.

Ericka--you are right! If we decide to go there, I'll look into the steam train. What do you know about it?

You know me, laurie, I like to spend a lot of time in a place. We were in Jogja for 6 nights if I remember correctly. There is LOTS to do. My must-see list includes Borobudor, Prambanan, the Dieng Plateau, the krations in Jogja and Solo, an evening at the Ramayana Ballet, craft shopping, a trip to a couple of temples way out past Solo (I'll have to look up the names). We loved driving through the countryside and the small villages.

In terms of restuarants, one that we tried is famous through Indonesia as having the best fried chicken. (and I know it;s still there) Indeed, people from Jakarta will be seen boarding the plane with a box of the chicken to take home. It's soaked in coconut milk before frying. We got our driver to take us there. He suggested we order a whole chicken and share it. So we did. The chicken did indeed come whole - including the head and the feet! It was tasty, but it's the whole experience of it that I loved (the place was rather lacking in atmosphere - the interior looked rather than an old KFC!)

On our last day, our driver took us to "the best restaurant in town." It was not associated with a hotel, and served a huge buffet of Indonesian food for less than US$5 per person. Our driver was very helpful in telling us what the various dishes were. The one very odd dish I remember was a "vegetable" dish consisting of potato chips and peanuts in a honey dressing!

Obviously, I loved Jogja and look forward to returning someday.

Kathie, I know spending more time in one place is ideal but unfortunately we just don't have that luxury. I'm already taking Ko Saumi off our Thailand itinerary for that trip, and may possibly exclude the Golden Triangle and just make it Bangkok in Thailand (I just HAVE to go back there, it's been two years!) I was thinking of 2-3 nights in Yogya, one night at the hotel at Brobudur, 2 or 3 in Malang, and 2 or 3 in Solo. That way, I can do trips to the surrounding areas. This is all subject to change of course but does this sound reasonable?

I haven't been to Malang for several years but I've always found it a very pleasant, sleepy place. The Tugu is a little rough around the edges, but very charming.

If you get to Malang, I'd suggest that you forge on to Mt. Bromo, which is a wonderful experience. Also the Majapahit Mandarin Oriental in Surabaya is an extraordinary property in the Raffles school of renovation.
http://www.mandarinoriental.com/hotel/518000002.asp

I'm lukewarm on Solo. Interesting culture and fine arts and crafts (especially batik) but it's near enough to Yogya (about an hour) to visit in a day trip. I'd divide the time between Yogya and something in the Borobudur area, like the Losari COFFEE Plantation. (Thanks, Erica.)

I agree with what Kathie says, just driving around Java through the rice paddies, coffee and tea plantations, stopping at 1000 year old temples that appear out of no where, pavillion type restaurants with wonderful fresh food -- it's quite lyrical.

I agree with marmot - don't stay in Solo, do a day trip there. We spent one day driving to Solo and beyond out of our week. You really don't need 2 or 3 days there. That way, you can add two nights to Jogja, for, say 4 nights in Jogja and one at Borobudor.

marmot, the one guidebook I have that includes Indonesia says that Surabaya isn't all that great so I was going to skip it all together. Do you think it's worthwhile to go there? Also, how far is the Lorsari Coffee Plantation from Brobudur? If I can get to Brobudur from there for sunrise, maybe I can skip that hotel that is right nearby. It didn't look to great anyway but the location seemed good. One more question, what do you mean by "rough around the edges" in reference to the Tugu? It looks so stunning on the web site, (but I should know what a good wide angle lens and Photoshop can do ;-) )

Kathie and marmot--you don't think a couple of nights at Malang would be nice, to relax and just get some nice drives in during the day? It looked like there was a lot of nearby things to do. How far is Solo from there?

Sorry for all the questions.

Borobudur is about an hour from Yogya.
Losari is about an hour from Borobudur or Yogya. Solo is about an hour from Yogya.

Malang is FAR from Yogya/Solo. I've never driven, but I'd guess, 8-10 hours or so. The roads in central/east Java are good, but they are two lane country roads, not highways and there are mountains all over the place.

The Tugu is owned by an eccentric art collector who has put a lot of his collection and personality into his properties. It's charming, but looks better in photographs than in real life. I guess I'd describe it as a little musty. Malang is a typical east Java town with pedicabs, markets, quiet small town life. Not really a destination, but a lovely place.

Surabaya isn't a destination per se either but Mt. Bromo is.

The hotel on the grounds of Borobudur(Manohara) is pretty basic, but getting inside temple grounds before the hoards descend is a big plus. Unfortunately, there's nothing near by that's midrange between 2 star and the Aman.

Honestly, I take clients to central Java 4-5 times a year and I don't know any who haven't been completely nuts over the Aman experience, even if they're paying themselves.

I would love to stay at the Aman but I think it's just way too expensive unless they give a huge discount. We like luxury but one of the nice things about SEA is that you can often get luxury for a reasonable price. (I consider the Pen in Bangkok to be luxury. The most we've ever paid for a hotel was at the Monasterio in Cusco, which we were lucky to get at about $330 per night for three nights.) The Losario Coffee Plantation may be a good choice--reasonable price and you say the man at the Aman recommended it so it must be nice. I may give the Aman a call however and see what they offer.

Mt. Bromo is definitely a consideration. I guess Solo can be a day trip from somewhere. I'm going to have to get some more guidebooks and read more in order to get a better idea of where we should base ourselves. I've looked on Amazon but most of the books have publication dates that are about 8-9 years old and I want something recent. I want to stay in more than just Yogya.

Okay, after looking at the Aman website, maybe one night there if we can get it for $500 (I got my husband to aree to $650 at the Santuary Lodge at Machu Pichhu next time we go so I should be able to get him to agree to this). I'm just afraid that everything else will be such a letdown after the Aman. The Tugu at Malang is still a consideration for a few nights somewhere else. Eccentric and a bit musty are fine so long as I get an experience that is typical to Java. What I want to avoid are high rise western hotels and stay in places that are "different".

OK. It's time for me to get on my Aman high horse again!

There are many of us who are Aman junkies and Amanjiwo (Java) is considered to be one of their very best properties. I appreciate that it is a stretch of the budget (we have to save money like crazy to afford it), but the Amans are such magical experiences. Their packages are often quite cost-effective. Check out their 4 night cultural package. They throw in so many private one-of-a-kind activities for free. You will also want to write them an email and ask them to send their formal activities list. The warmth and personal attention that you receive just via email will help sway you.

Many people stay at Amanjiwo and have lunch at the Losari Coffee Plantation and do the coffee tour.

Finally, regarding the steam train, it is available for private rental for about $350. I've heard that there are two cars and that you can invite the locals to use the 2nd car if you'd like. The scenery is supposed to be very special - rice fields, villages, etc. There are pictures of the train on the Losari website.

We are going to Java next summer and are still working out the details. Let us know what you decide to do!

Ericka, I have seen the specials on the Aman website. They all end before we plan to go but maybe they will have some new ones by then. I'll have to weigh the positives of staying there against the negatives (like we can have 3 nights at the Losari for what it would cost for one at Aman). I think the Losari is a definite for a few nights. I did look at the steam train on the site. I'm not sure I want to spend that kind of money on it though. We take two major trips per year and a couple of minor ones so budget is an important consideration.

laurie, you're right it's hard to get accurate and updated information on Java.

For Central Java, you could spend a few days in Yogya proper, the city, and a few days outside the city. I think the Losari looks lovely, but it doesn't have the easy access to Borobudur, which is the main draw of the Aman.

Surabaya, Malang and Bromo are in EAST Java, some distance from Yogya. I don't know the exact driving time, but overland travel would consume most of a day. I'm sure it would very scenic. There are also many train connections which would be an acceptable alternative.

There are several flights between Yogya and Surabaya. Surabaya is a big coastal city. Malang is a small hilltown. Surabaya is closer to Bromo. Malang is closer to the archeological sites in the area. There are also several resorts very close to Bromo. I've never stayed in them, but it's something that's on my list as the scenery is breathtaking.

One last thing that I would add about Java -- it is godawful HOT. People usually arrange activities in the very early hours, even predawn, and in the late afternoon. Midday, you'll want to retreat to the pool, the garden, or naptime, so staying in a pleasant place is important.

Thanks marmot. I guess the biggest decision I have to make now regarding areas is whether I want to go to Malang and/or Mt. Bromo.I did just order a book on Indonesia from Amazon that was published in 2001 so it may not have the most recent hotel and restaurant info but I'm sure the info on sights and regions is still valid.

I'm not worried about heat or humidity. We travel to SEA quite a lot and are used to it. We've been in BKK when it was 105 degrees with humidity to match and managed. We usually go back to the hotel pool or escape to air-conditioned shops or restaurants in the heat of midday. A nice place with a good pool is important but like I said earlier, it doesn't matter if the place is a bit older or "musty", so long as it exudes charm and style, which is why the Dusun Jogja Village Inn and the Tugu look so appealing. Also, it doesn't hurt that the price is very reasonable. They have to be better than the dumps we're forced to stay in in London, which generally cost at least twice as much as these places in Java!

By the way, the Amans will usually extend those packages from year to year. Just ask.

Thanks Ericka, that's good to know. Marmot also said that if you call the hotel direct, they may discount the price. It's worth a try when I'm ready to reserve.

Well, I've brought up the subject of staying at the Aman in Java to my husband and, surprise surprise--he is willing to do it! This prospect excites me even though the trip is 9-10 months away since staying in an Aman resort has been a dream of mine (along with flying the concorde which is no longer possible now). I'm going to contact the Aman and find out what is available as far as extending their specials. Now that my Sept trip to Malyasia is completely planned, I need to start on the next trip to keep me busy!

Yea Laurieco! That's great news. I remember having a similar conversation with my husband and getting him to stretch the budget and give it a try - that was 5 Amans ago.

We have been firming up our plans for our 2006 trip. Looks like it will be Losari Coffee Plantation for 2 nights and Amanjiwo for 5. We'll probably route through Singapore.

Keep us up to date as you make your arrangements. We can also compare notes about activities. What month are you going?

Ericka, we'll be going next April or May. We're going to Malaysia Sept 22 for 16 days so when we return home from that I'll start making concrete arrangements. I have already started checking out airfares to BKK and found some decent fares, roundtrip on Thai from JFK, non-stop, for about $1050, including all taxes, using Orbitz. From BKK, we can fly fairly cheaply to Java, and then back to BKK to spend a few days, and possibly up to the Golden Triangle. I would grab one of those airfares now except getting my husband to nail down vacation time this far in advance is difficult. It's easy for me since I'm a judge and work per diem so I can take off whenever I want but he has a normal job and gets 5 weeks vacation per year. He was funny this weekend though--I found a site that advertised the Pen in BKK for $138 per night and he said I should book it! I told him it might be a good idea to have our airfare reserved first!

I emailed the Aman and they wrote back and said the rates, including the specials, would be the same for next April-May. I'm looking into the four night package they offer for $2500. They also have a 3 night package for $1350 that runs this year in May and I'm hoping they will have something similar for next year as that seems to be an excellent deal.

Sorry, that's $1650 for three nights, not $1350. Still a great deal.

Sounds good, Laurieco. We'll be going in early July but I have to book everything in the next few weeks since we use miles.

Come September, we'll be in Africa - isn't this travel stuff great?!? I have to go lurk on the Africa forum now. :-)