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Japan in January with 2 children - advice appreciated

Japan in January with 2 children - advice appreciated

Old Jan 28th, 2014, 11:13 PM
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Japan in January with 2 children - advice appreciated

Hi - I used to be a member in the dim and distant past, and have lurked for a while, but when I went to log on to ask a question, I couldn't remember my details, so I'm wearing a new hat

I'm planning to the travel to Japan this time next year (from NZ on the way home to Europe) with husband and 2 children (will be 6.5 and 3.5 at the time). I lived in Japan for a year doing the JET programme many years ago., but DH has never been, so our wishes/expectations are a bit different, and then we have to factor in the children.

I'd love a bit of advice on our planned itinerary (I know we're a little early, but I'm an advance planner!)

Actual dates are probably flexible, in case of clashing with expensive times (but I've checked and haven't found any)

10 Jan: arrive Narita about 5pm, head to hotel in Tokyo, collapse in heap after 12 hour flight with 2 active kids
11 January: Tokyo - mainly getting out and about seeing the city.
12 January: this is a Monday, so with museums closed etc we were thinking of going to Tokyo Disneyland, although reviews of all the queues are putting me off a bit.
13 January: Tokyo - Kyoto.
Thinking of trying to stay in a Machiya here - both for the Japanese home experience which I'd love the kids to experience, but also for a budget perspective, as we tend to book 2 connecting hotel rooms when we travel so we don't have to go to sleep at 7 when the youngest has had enough!
14/15 January: Kyoto. Interspersing temples and sightseeing with some more child focused stuff. I'd love to find a "cultural experience" that I could bring the girls to, but I expect 3yo just won't have the focus/interest
15 January: Kyoto - Hiroshima
16 January: Hiroshima. DH and I could spend forever doing historical stuff, but obviously that won't keep the kids occupied for long (and I'd be concerned about 6yo at the museum - I visited it in my 20s and was very affected by it - so we may need to figure something out.
17 January: Miyajima - ferry out in the morning, day there, back in the afternoon
18 January: another day in Hiroshima? I'll confess my last visit to Hiroshima was in my single, whiskey-fueled days, but I presume we'll find plenty to do for another day.
19 January: Hiroshima to ??
Original plan was Osaka and fly out of there, but it seems most flights involve either a domestic flight to Tokyo and/or cost a small fortune, so perhaps up to Narita and stay overnight there before flying out on the 20th.

A few more questions (if you've made it this far sorry I'm long-winded)
- our days are flexible so we could add an extra day or two somewhere if necessary. Kyoto? A day trip to Nara?
- I'd happily skip Tokyo (been there, done that quite a few times) but DH is very keen. Any tips for surviving it with kids (and mild claustrophobia - I embarrassingly had a massive panic attack in the middle of Ueno Station last time I was there)
- I have very basic Japanese, and will be brushing up before I go, so I'm not too worried about making myself understood, but I'd love to get 6yo involved - any experience of teaching that age the basics?
- we're planning to use the 7 day Rail Pass, so from last day in Tokyo to arrival in Narita. With all our Shinkansen trips, I'm right in thinking it will definitely be worth it? Maybe even the first class one?

Any tips or criticisms gratefully received!

Thanks!
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Old Jan 28th, 2014, 11:29 PM
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Eek, I knew I'd forget to include something:

I loved going to Onsen when I lived in Japan (I lived in Niigata-ken, and I swear in the winter an Onsen was the only thing that warmed me up!)

But... I'd really love the opportunity to experience it again with all the family, rather than DH going off by himself, and me wrangling the two crazy girls. Are there mixed Onsen? I couldn't find reference to any. And are onsen really as hot as I remember? I.e. Will they be suitable for the kids anyway? (We've done hot pools here in NZ, so they can take warm, but not hot)

Thanks!
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Old Jan 29th, 2014, 01:29 AM
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I wonder if you could consider an overnight in Miyajima rather than only a day visit? It's lovely to see the floating torii at different times - when the tide is low, visitors go down onto the sand and walk to its base - I would imagine the kids would enjoy that. There are also the deers roaming around the island, they might like. 3 nights seems a lot in Hiroshima to me, but I can't say I know it beyond the peace park and museum, so perhaps I'm shortchanging it? But the balance with time there v. Kyoto seems a bit skewy to me.

Likewise, how about adding Nara in to your time near Kyoto? The park there is full of semi-tame deer which kids and adults alike enjoy feeding. They are not properly tame, so do stay with the kids as they approach...

I did a fabulous cookery class in Kyoto in a ladie's traditional home, in her kitchen. The groups are private and she mentioned that she has often had families attending, that might be really good fun?

And I read that there are shorter group classes at a craft centre where you could make wagashi, again, perhaps the kids might like as they are shorter and involve making sweets?
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Old Jan 29th, 2014, 06:59 AM
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You can find an onsen ryokan which has family hours for their bath that you can reserve for your private use.
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Old Jan 29th, 2014, 08:32 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions!

We've pencilled in an overnight on Miyajima, but the convenience of staying in Hiroshima and not having to lug bags around and check-in/out might win out.

I think we'll add an extra night in Kyoto, with the possibility of that being for a side trip to Nara - I guess we can play that by ear at the time.

The craft/cookery ideas sound great. Another thing to consider, although we do have food allergies to deal with so it may make it a bit complex.

Mrwunrfl - I'd kind of discounted ryokan as being too formal for my kids (having taught Junior high and elementary for a year I'm under no illusions that Japanese children are paragons of virtue, but I'd assumed they were better adapted to the formality required in a ryokan), or have I discounted it needlessly?
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Old Jan 29th, 2014, 11:34 PM
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You might want to consider staying an extra day in Tokyo so you can relax a bit before setting out to Kyoto. One strategy with children might be staying in the Shinagawa area, by train or limousine bus from Narita then taxi to hotel from the station or nearest limousine bus stop hotel. We stayed at the Hearton-Higashi Shinagawa hotel right next to the Shinagawa Seaside Station, also next to a Aeon shopping center with restaurants. It's on the Rinkai line for close access to Odaiba .
http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3008.html
Odaiba would offer the Science Museum, Miraikan (open on Mondays) as well as The Oedo Onsen Theme Park, granted not a traditional onsen but a relaxing kid friendly place.
Also Trick Art Museum, Legoland, Toyota Megaweb ( hands on kid stuff) and plenty of other indoor attractions, January may be cold.
Easy access to other central Tokyo sights as well by connecting to the Yamanote Line or for more fun catch the Yurikamome line train and try to get the front car.
http://www.yurikamome.co.jp/en/conte...php?No=5&CNo=5

For me I'd stick to Tokyo and Kyoto four days each, more than enough to see in both places and have a relaxing time without having to pick up and go every two days (IMHO)
Hopefully you can plan a return trip with more time

Many onsen ryokan do have family or private baths you can reserve, Izu and Hakone would be close to Tokyo for a ryokan stopover if your schedule permitted.Check this older thread out.
http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...nd-koyasan.cfm
Good you are planning early
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Old Jan 30th, 2014, 12:36 AM
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Regarding the cookery class, the one I did was private and I discussed with the hostess what we wanted to cook in advance. I don't know how many/ which allergies you have - presumably will influence whether or not she feels able to create a class menu that works for you, but it's certainly worth asking?
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Old Jan 30th, 2014, 12:55 AM
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kalihiwai2 - that's brilliant advice on Tokyo, thanks! We had been looking at the Mercure Ginza, as we know they have connecting rooms, but shall expand the search to take in your areas (my previous experience of Tokyo overnights was hostels, manga cafés, karaoke booths and simply staying awake til the first train 'home' - not exactly suited to my current life!)

Hiroshima is pretty much a non-negotiable for DH - we are both huge history buffs, and he doesn't feel he can visit Japan without going there. But yes, I think minimal moving about will make it safer.

Kavey - the allergies are egg and dairy, thankfully not at the anaphylaxis level so far (touch wood), but the potential for a spoilt day at the least. The dairy wouldn't concern me hugely in a cooking class, but the egg might be a bit trickier. I'm mildly stressed about the allergies for the trip, and hoping I can find a better way to deal with her oat milk than lugging litre packs of it in my suitcase!
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Old Jan 30th, 2014, 03:03 AM
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As long as it wouldn't be a problem to be a in kitchen where these ingredients are present / used, I think you'd be fine. The class covers 3 or 4 savoury dishes and sometimes, a sweet. We did specifically ask for rolled tamago omelette to be included in ours, but that was the only course with egg involved. The others we asked for were a tofu dish and a sweet rice flour dessert. She added a miso marinaded fish and a lovely spinach and sesame salad. But as I say, you could discuss in advance. If it's of interest, let me know, I'll dig out details.
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Old Feb 1st, 2014, 04:22 PM
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Kavey - that would be really great if you don't mind. Good to have the details of something someone can recommend.

We've already changed our plans somewhat
Night 1 - Narita, stay somewhere near airport as it will have been a really long day for kids and I don't think we'd manage the trip into Tokyo.
Day 2 - straight to Kyoto by Shinkansen
4 days there
Then 2 nights Hiroshima/Miyajima
Shinkansen back to Tokyo
4 days there before departure.

Feels a little less bitty that way and we have 2 blocks of 4 days either side of a more intense travelling time.

Have I missed anything obvious about why that wouldn't work?
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Old Feb 1st, 2014, 06:46 PM
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Is Day 2 the first of 4 nights in Kyoto? or 5? I think you mean 4 in which case a 7-day JR pass will work.
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Old Feb 1st, 2014, 09:04 PM
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Yes. 4 nights in Kyoto. So:

10 Jan: arrive Narita, stay near airport
11 Jan: to Kyoto
12 Jan: Kyoto
13 Jan: Kyoto (day trip to Nara?)
14 Jan: Kyoto
15 Jan: to Hiroshima
16 Jan: Miyajima
17 Jan: Hiroshima to Tokyo
18, 19 Jan: Tokyo
20 Jan: depart from Narita

It means we only have half a day in Hiroshima (the day we arrive, although should be there early enough hopefully) a day in Miyajima and then on to Toyko the next day. I'd love to stay longer but I think Kyoto deserves/needs the extra day.
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Old Feb 2nd, 2014, 12:15 AM
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I'd say that's a very good balance, yes.
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Old Feb 2nd, 2014, 11:34 PM
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OK here are the details:

Emi Hirayama runs Uzuki Cooking
Email: [email protected]
Website: http://www.kyotouzuki.com/
Blog (with additional photos): http://kyotouzuki.blogspot.co.uk/

The location is in Kyoto, we found it easy to get to by bus, she met us at a major site and walked us to her home just a couple of minutes walk away.

Classes are (currently) Y 4,500 per person, though I don't know if fees are the same for adults / children or whether there is a family rate. But to be honest, the price is very reasonable given that the class is a few hours long, is hands on, and you eat the dishes you make as you go along.

x
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Old Feb 3rd, 2014, 01:54 AM
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I'm going to urge you to put this in the search function and then read it: "EMD's Japan Trip Report, 3/05".

Yes, it's a while ago now, but the report documents a mother (and a poster here, obviously) traveling to Japan with her then 14 year old son. Obviously your kids are at a very different age, but it shows how much fun an adult can have by looking at the country they visit through their child's eyes.
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Old Feb 3rd, 2014, 08:28 AM
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You are staying in Hiroshima on the night of the 16th, so you will have more time to see some Hiroshima on the 17th as well as the 15th. Leave luggage at the hotel or in a coin locker at the station.

You won't need a whole lot of time in Hiroshima given that you likely don't want to take the kids to the Peace Museum. DH could visit the museum while you and the kids hang out in the Peace Park - though that might not be as enjoyable in January as it would be in May.

Your trip from Narita Airport will take about 4 hours travel time. It would be a Narita Express to Shinagawa or Tokyo station and then transfer to a Hikari shinkansen to Tokyo. Best would be a transfer at Shinagawa.

Your trip from Hiroshima to Tokyo will take about 5 hours. It would involve one transfer between shinkansen at some station. Shin Osaka would offer the most connection opportunities, but there are Hikari shinkansen that go through to Tokyo from other stations as well.

This schedule shows what your train itinerary might be like that day: http://tinyurl.com/lqmjp7k It shows options of connecting in Himeji or Okayama. Himeji castle is not far from the station and may be open by the time you are in Japan. Okayama castle is also not far from the station (as is Korakuen garden next to the castle, but maybe not a great place to visit in January). The station to castle distances are walkable, or better yet go by taxi. Okayama has a nice street car across from that station that will get you to within a short walk of the park. Both station have coin lockers, of course. Shin Kobe is also a connecting station but I think it is not close to anything of tourist interest.

So there are some options for stops on the 17th. They are also options for the 15th.
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Old Feb 4th, 2014, 07:00 AM
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When we returned from Hiroshima to Tokyo (using our JR Pass) we changed at Shin-Osaka, which was very straightforward.

I'd noted down, using Hyperdia, the platform number the first train came into and the platform number the second leg departed from, so it was incredibly easy to find our way between trains, indeed some of the changes we made like this during the trip were just a few minutes and, because we had the platform numbers, we were not rushed.
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Old Feb 5th, 2014, 10:36 PM
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Mrwunrfl - unfortunately I have a husband who believes in the 'lets get going' school of travel, so on travelling days it will be straight to the train station. Can't change him, but it does mean, I suppose, that we should get to Hiroshima relatively early

But, the suggestion of a stop at Himeji has gone down brilliantly here - both he and older DD have a thing for castles, younger DD will just be glad to get away from having to sit still in the train, and I'll get to see a part of Japan that's new to me. Fingers crossed the renovation will be finished - but would it be worth seeing even if not?

Kavey - thanks so much for the cooking school details. I'll be getting in contact to see if she might be willing/able to take us on!
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