INDIA - ONE FAIRLY HECTIC MONTH IN MAY 2016
Jul 15th, 2016, 03:00 AM
#42
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Shimla
7 am pick up and drive to Shimla via Chandigarh, no idea if this is the quickest route but it took 9.5 hours. The final 4.5 hours from Chandigarh was again nerve wracking, it is actually worse here than in Sikkim as there are many parts of the road where there are no barriers whatsoever and a lot more buses/coaches passing in places where they shouldn’t. While we there two buses had gone off the roads killing around 15 people.
First impressions were of amazing scenery again marred by ugly towns, a lot of the buildings do not look safe.
We arrived at Wildflower Hall late afternoon, nice welcome and then the usual….given a no smoking room, rooms with balconies already booked and only place allowed to smoke was outside the entrance as it was a no smoking hotel. Pointed out that for this standard of hotel then certain guests are given smoking rooms so sorted.
The hotel is wonderful, views stunning, service very good, food very good (no buffets), good size bedrooms with separate wardrobe area and bathrooms with separate showers and bath. You can dine outside on the terrace which has amazing views and, if you insist, afternoon tea on the front lawn.
We had no guide for the 4 nights here although the driver was on standby if required.
The first day we just relaxed, walked the grounds, played croquet and sat on the front lawn reading, so long since we have seen proper english style grass and the weather was perfect, easy to understand why the British made it their summer capital.
Monday - Jon’s Birthday today so arranged to go White Water Rafting and then a surprise birthday dinner.
We had our driver take us to the river accompanied by the hotel guide, it is about a 2 hour journey and this was the worst drive of the lot, the road is literally almost at the top of the mountains, no barriers and cows grazing on the steep slope above you, I spent a lot of time wondering if they every fall off onto the road....headline 'Killed by falling cow in the Himalayas'! When we reached the river, our lovely driver said “very dangerous road”.
The river rafting was great and even when a storm started we would not have missed the experience. They also stop for tea and sandwiches half way, they had a tent, fold up seats and hamper in the boat!
Back at the hotel they decided we could not sit outside for the birthday dinner due to expected rain so this actually turned it all into an utter disaster but at least it is a birthday that Jon will remember and we can laugh about! Thankfully they did not charge for it.
Third day - trip into Shimla, walked the Mall which is a step back in time, so weird seeing a typically english high street remembered from our childhoods. It is worth walking the lower streets which have more interesting shops. There are some amazing colonial buildings plus a couple of large houses in need of modernisation which would make perfect boutique hotels in the centre of the town. We did call in at The Cecil but it certainly did not look at nice as Wildflower.
Wednesday - time to leave so early breakfast and pick up to take us to the train station to catch the Himalayan Queen. As we needed to be at the airport for the 5 pm flight to Delhi we could only take the train half way. Due to horrendous traffic getting into and through Shimla we missed the train so they took us to the next station where we had to run over the tracks to get to it. Unfortunately the carriage was packed and one of our seats had gone. Although this had been pre booked for first class this was just an normal carriage, Jon had to stand the whole way and I was squashed against the inside window with an elderly indian lady fast asleep on me the whole way.
It would have been a pleasant experience otherwise, the train slowly winds its way down and the views are excellent if you get the right seats. The first class carriage is at the back and has an outdoor deck with seating so this would have been perfect.
Chandigarh airport is fairly new but poorly built, nothing in there except one place to buy drinks and food, a shop selling handbags and the toilets are okay.
Landed at Delhi, all the luggage left with Quo Vadis was brought to check in, upgraded to business for 5000 IR and hit the business class lounge for champers (note do not tell them you are domestic or you cannot have alcohol) Only hitch was the cable ties they had put on the luggage so we had to try and find something to cut them which is impossible in an airport...interestingly one of the baggage handlers could open the cable ties without cutting them!
Next Kolkata
7 am pick up and drive to Shimla via Chandigarh, no idea if this is the quickest route but it took 9.5 hours. The final 4.5 hours from Chandigarh was again nerve wracking, it is actually worse here than in Sikkim as there are many parts of the road where there are no barriers whatsoever and a lot more buses/coaches passing in places where they shouldn’t. While we there two buses had gone off the roads killing around 15 people.
First impressions were of amazing scenery again marred by ugly towns, a lot of the buildings do not look safe.
We arrived at Wildflower Hall late afternoon, nice welcome and then the usual….given a no smoking room, rooms with balconies already booked and only place allowed to smoke was outside the entrance as it was a no smoking hotel. Pointed out that for this standard of hotel then certain guests are given smoking rooms so sorted.
The hotel is wonderful, views stunning, service very good, food very good (no buffets), good size bedrooms with separate wardrobe area and bathrooms with separate showers and bath. You can dine outside on the terrace which has amazing views and, if you insist, afternoon tea on the front lawn.
We had no guide for the 4 nights here although the driver was on standby if required.
The first day we just relaxed, walked the grounds, played croquet and sat on the front lawn reading, so long since we have seen proper english style grass and the weather was perfect, easy to understand why the British made it their summer capital.
Monday - Jon’s Birthday today so arranged to go White Water Rafting and then a surprise birthday dinner.
We had our driver take us to the river accompanied by the hotel guide, it is about a 2 hour journey and this was the worst drive of the lot, the road is literally almost at the top of the mountains, no barriers and cows grazing on the steep slope above you, I spent a lot of time wondering if they every fall off onto the road....headline 'Killed by falling cow in the Himalayas'! When we reached the river, our lovely driver said “very dangerous road”.
The river rafting was great and even when a storm started we would not have missed the experience. They also stop for tea and sandwiches half way, they had a tent, fold up seats and hamper in the boat!
Back at the hotel they decided we could not sit outside for the birthday dinner due to expected rain so this actually turned it all into an utter disaster but at least it is a birthday that Jon will remember and we can laugh about! Thankfully they did not charge for it.
Third day - trip into Shimla, walked the Mall which is a step back in time, so weird seeing a typically english high street remembered from our childhoods. It is worth walking the lower streets which have more interesting shops. There are some amazing colonial buildings plus a couple of large houses in need of modernisation which would make perfect boutique hotels in the centre of the town. We did call in at The Cecil but it certainly did not look at nice as Wildflower.
Wednesday - time to leave so early breakfast and pick up to take us to the train station to catch the Himalayan Queen. As we needed to be at the airport for the 5 pm flight to Delhi we could only take the train half way. Due to horrendous traffic getting into and through Shimla we missed the train so they took us to the next station where we had to run over the tracks to get to it. Unfortunately the carriage was packed and one of our seats had gone. Although this had been pre booked for first class this was just an normal carriage, Jon had to stand the whole way and I was squashed against the inside window with an elderly indian lady fast asleep on me the whole way.
It would have been a pleasant experience otherwise, the train slowly winds its way down and the views are excellent if you get the right seats. The first class carriage is at the back and has an outdoor deck with seating so this would have been perfect.
Chandigarh airport is fairly new but poorly built, nothing in there except one place to buy drinks and food, a shop selling handbags and the toilets are okay.
Landed at Delhi, all the luggage left with Quo Vadis was brought to check in, upgraded to business for 5000 IR and hit the business class lounge for champers (note do not tell them you are domestic or you cannot have alcohol) Only hitch was the cable ties they had put on the luggage so we had to try and find something to cut them which is impossible in an airport...interestingly one of the baggage handlers could open the cable ties without cutting them!
Next Kolkata
Jul 17th, 2016, 03:07 PM
#43
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Cyan, your Amritsar report brought back many wonderful memories. We stayed at same hotel, across the driveway from the shopping mall. The hotel had a different name then, but was only a yr or two old, and quite nice. I loved the name of the big department store on the shopping mall's lower level: Hypercity!!
Funny enough, the smell of urine on streets has been IME stronger in big French cities, including Paris, than in India's. ( Toulouse is called "The Pink City" but I called it "The Yellow City" after wandering through its back streets. Maybe the wind was blowing in the wrong direction!)
We loved the Mall at Shimla, not least because, as you say, of its similarity to local High Streets as they once looked in England. Did you happen to wander into the Gaiety Theatre or Maria Brothers Bookshop? Both, should any future visitors happen to be reading this, are worth a visit. At Maria Bros, I bought a book of beautiful paintings of Indian sites. Its pages are so old and yellow, they literally turn to dust in my hands the few times I dare to open it.
We too took the train down from Shimla, as far as Kalka for transfer to train to New Delhi. Funny how some things you describe on your journey Cyan were identical. Some folks fast asleep despite uncomfortable small seats, others looking out while sat on the edge of the open doorway.
(Thursdaysd, if your principal reason for visiting Shimla is the train to it, you may be disappointed. The one in the Nilgiris, which I think you've taken, was much nicer in every way, imho. )
Funny enough, the smell of urine on streets has been IME stronger in big French cities, including Paris, than in India's. ( Toulouse is called "The Pink City" but I called it "The Yellow City" after wandering through its back streets. Maybe the wind was blowing in the wrong direction!)
We loved the Mall at Shimla, not least because, as you say, of its similarity to local High Streets as they once looked in England. Did you happen to wander into the Gaiety Theatre or Maria Brothers Bookshop? Both, should any future visitors happen to be reading this, are worth a visit. At Maria Bros, I bought a book of beautiful paintings of Indian sites. Its pages are so old and yellow, they literally turn to dust in my hands the few times I dare to open it.
We too took the train down from Shimla, as far as Kalka for transfer to train to New Delhi. Funny how some things you describe on your journey Cyan were identical. Some folks fast asleep despite uncomfortable small seats, others looking out while sat on the edge of the open doorway.
(Thursdaysd, if your principal reason for visiting Shimla is the train to it, you may be disappointed. The one in the Nilgiris, which I think you've taken, was much nicer in every way, imho. )
Jul 18th, 2016, 12:11 AM
#44
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It has been years since I was in France in fact even in Europe so no doubt things have changed not for the good. England in general (obviously not in the EU now lol) never suffers from awful smells unless you wander round the back of nightclub late at night. The overriding smell in most Asian cities are the drains, Georgetown in Penang was dreadful earlier in the year, obviously only Singapore is the odd one out in all respects, one of the reasons I love it and return so often, such a refreshing change from Phuket. Saying that The Shang had a durian festival last time we were there, another vile smell!
Interestingly the Phuket authorities have recently issued notices to 'educate' the Chinese from using the streets and temples as toilet facilities and to stop the spitting.
We did go into an old book shop on the Mall, only one we saw so probably Maria Brothers. I found some old maps that we would have bought but they were extremely expensive.
Interestingly the Phuket authorities have recently issued notices to 'educate' the Chinese from using the streets and temples as toilet facilities and to stop the spitting.
We did go into an old book shop on the Mall, only one we saw so probably Maria Brothers. I found some old maps that we would have bought but they were extremely expensive.
Jul 18th, 2016, 05:41 AM
#45
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KOLKATA
Good Air India flight, met and driven to The Oberoi Grand.
Th city looked fascinating at night and there was very little traffic although a lot of people sleeping in the roads.
We think we had the right room this time but unfortunately the next morning we found out that they were renovating the main restaurant and the Chowringhee Bar and the room was right over this so a lot of noise from the power tools and hammers. We were moved to a higher floor and further away from the noise. This room had a vibrating noise from the air con shafts but just could not be bothered to move again.
Bedrooms are clean and well equipped but dated, the colour schemes are dull and the bathrooms small and antiquated with no separate shower. They are quite proud of their “historic” bedrooms.
All meals were served in the Thai restaurant which was packed and busy, this meant that service could be a bit slow but the food was excellent. The staff are, as always at Oberoi’s, wonderful. The hotel has a nice pool area and handy little shop. Outside there are lots of handicraft shops and stalls selling cheap t-shirts etc none of which looked any good. We were warned about touts in this area but they never come near me anyway so did not have a problem…Jon popped out on his own to get beer and he said a couple of them started to be too pushy and worrying.
One morning the restaurant manager asked us if we would like to try the Afternoon Tea so after sightseeing we went to try it. Arrived at 4 pm and by 4.45 we received the tea but nothing else. 5 pm the sandwiches etc were brought by 4 members of staff including a manager and the chef apologising for the delay. Then we had the restaurant manager and the chef apologising again and explaining that this was a new idea for them, basically I think he had baked the selection of cakes from scratch on us ordering. You really cannot be annoyed with them for long plus they did not charge for it either!
Anyway sightseeing:
We had a very interesting guide who was extremely proud of Kolkata and its history, we had quite a few discussions about the British Raj, reasons for it finishing plus his strong opinion that the British should never have left!
We started at St John’s Church, the third oldest church in Kolkata and it has the Black Hole of Calcutta monument in the grounds plus an interesting mausoleum of the man who started off Calcutta, Job Charnock.
Then on to walk round Dalhousie Square which has the General Post Office, site of the original Fort William, plus a lot of other colonial architecture. Although the buildings do seem to be in good repair they are all extremely dirty, the guide explained that cleaning is not a priority at this point. At the opposite side there is the area where they trade in tea and also lot of shops and stalls with men using old typewriters, this is where you get documents typed up.
We were then taken to College Street Coffee House which is the meeting place for intellectuals and students, great atmosphere and excellent coffee! Outside are streets full of stalls selling every type of book you can think of…much more interesting than the average book shop.
Onto Victoria Memorial which is a must do….visit the museum as well!
We decided to return to the hotel at this point as the heat is very similar to Phuket so hot and humid so it gets uncomfortable walking around, basically we were dripping wet.
Note on the black hole of Calcutta, this is a saying we have used all our lives without questioning the actual meaning and as a child thinking that Calcutta was just a black hole somewhere so it is fascinating to see where it all happened.
Next day - started with Park Street Cemetery - excellent, very atmospheric and sad reading the inscriptions but we like old cemeteries. Do buy the booklet at the entrance as the money goes to the upkeep and it is a good read. Try and get it before going into the cemetery as it explains a lot of the headstones.
The guide then insisted that we see a Jain Temple made from glass so it sounded worth visiting. It is not worth the effort, very tacky.
Next he recommended the Marble Palace, again thought this was a waste as it is a private mansion which at first glance looks full of crap. But looking closely there are pieces that are worth a fortune mixed with junk….some of the paintings are again stunning but are so dirty. Fascinating place and a wonderful historic building. Only downside is the cages of birds they have in there plus there is a zoo which we obviously avoided.
We then spent the rest of the time visiting Art galleries to try and pick up work by local artists but no joy. Final stop at a great Cottage Industry shop for shawls and scarves at silly prices, do not know the name as guide just stopped there.
That morning we had decided to see if we could extend our stay by one day due to the delayed flight in, had left everything in the very capable hands of Richard at the hotel so one more night in Kolkata.
This day was spent buying last minute presents, indian cooking dishes, spices and one last trip out to M & S at one of the Malls.
Hotel let us stay in the room until time to leave for the 2 am flight back to BKK so time to pack the 83 Kg of luggage!
Kolkata airport is again fairly new but very poor once through immigration so don’t get there early. The duty free is small and there a couple of basic shops and two food outlets. Eventually found the business class lounge upstairs but poor cramped seating, appalling food and no wine, Jon had to go and buy a coke from downstairs for my bacardi.
Good Thai Air flight back but it is only 2 and half hours and by this time we just managed one glass of champers and fell asleep. Thankfully we did immigration in Bangkok rather than Phuket which can take an hour or more so back home by 11 am.
Final thoughts on this trip….apart from Sikkim, thoroughly enjoyed it, had some memorable and fun experiences, ticked off places that were on the list! I think I preferred our first trip to India with the exception of Goa, but I would certainly return to Darjeeling. Kolkata…would go again but prefer Mumbai and Delhi. Jon loved all of it!
So do we go south next time…..but then there is Bhutan (more steep winding roads??) and Africa to do, decisions, decisions!
Good Air India flight, met and driven to The Oberoi Grand.
Th city looked fascinating at night and there was very little traffic although a lot of people sleeping in the roads.
We think we had the right room this time but unfortunately the next morning we found out that they were renovating the main restaurant and the Chowringhee Bar and the room was right over this so a lot of noise from the power tools and hammers. We were moved to a higher floor and further away from the noise. This room had a vibrating noise from the air con shafts but just could not be bothered to move again.
Bedrooms are clean and well equipped but dated, the colour schemes are dull and the bathrooms small and antiquated with no separate shower. They are quite proud of their “historic” bedrooms.
All meals were served in the Thai restaurant which was packed and busy, this meant that service could be a bit slow but the food was excellent. The staff are, as always at Oberoi’s, wonderful. The hotel has a nice pool area and handy little shop. Outside there are lots of handicraft shops and stalls selling cheap t-shirts etc none of which looked any good. We were warned about touts in this area but they never come near me anyway so did not have a problem…Jon popped out on his own to get beer and he said a couple of them started to be too pushy and worrying.
One morning the restaurant manager asked us if we would like to try the Afternoon Tea so after sightseeing we went to try it. Arrived at 4 pm and by 4.45 we received the tea but nothing else. 5 pm the sandwiches etc were brought by 4 members of staff including a manager and the chef apologising for the delay. Then we had the restaurant manager and the chef apologising again and explaining that this was a new idea for them, basically I think he had baked the selection of cakes from scratch on us ordering. You really cannot be annoyed with them for long plus they did not charge for it either!
Anyway sightseeing:
We had a very interesting guide who was extremely proud of Kolkata and its history, we had quite a few discussions about the British Raj, reasons for it finishing plus his strong opinion that the British should never have left!
We started at St John’s Church, the third oldest church in Kolkata and it has the Black Hole of Calcutta monument in the grounds plus an interesting mausoleum of the man who started off Calcutta, Job Charnock.
Then on to walk round Dalhousie Square which has the General Post Office, site of the original Fort William, plus a lot of other colonial architecture. Although the buildings do seem to be in good repair they are all extremely dirty, the guide explained that cleaning is not a priority at this point. At the opposite side there is the area where they trade in tea and also lot of shops and stalls with men using old typewriters, this is where you get documents typed up.
We were then taken to College Street Coffee House which is the meeting place for intellectuals and students, great atmosphere and excellent coffee! Outside are streets full of stalls selling every type of book you can think of…much more interesting than the average book shop.
Onto Victoria Memorial which is a must do….visit the museum as well!
We decided to return to the hotel at this point as the heat is very similar to Phuket so hot and humid so it gets uncomfortable walking around, basically we were dripping wet.
Note on the black hole of Calcutta, this is a saying we have used all our lives without questioning the actual meaning and as a child thinking that Calcutta was just a black hole somewhere so it is fascinating to see where it all happened.
Next day - started with Park Street Cemetery - excellent, very atmospheric and sad reading the inscriptions but we like old cemeteries. Do buy the booklet at the entrance as the money goes to the upkeep and it is a good read. Try and get it before going into the cemetery as it explains a lot of the headstones.
The guide then insisted that we see a Jain Temple made from glass so it sounded worth visiting. It is not worth the effort, very tacky.
Next he recommended the Marble Palace, again thought this was a waste as it is a private mansion which at first glance looks full of crap. But looking closely there are pieces that are worth a fortune mixed with junk….some of the paintings are again stunning but are so dirty. Fascinating place and a wonderful historic building. Only downside is the cages of birds they have in there plus there is a zoo which we obviously avoided.
We then spent the rest of the time visiting Art galleries to try and pick up work by local artists but no joy. Final stop at a great Cottage Industry shop for shawls and scarves at silly prices, do not know the name as guide just stopped there.
That morning we had decided to see if we could extend our stay by one day due to the delayed flight in, had left everything in the very capable hands of Richard at the hotel so one more night in Kolkata.
This day was spent buying last minute presents, indian cooking dishes, spices and one last trip out to M & S at one of the Malls.
Hotel let us stay in the room until time to leave for the 2 am flight back to BKK so time to pack the 83 Kg of luggage!
Kolkata airport is again fairly new but very poor once through immigration so don’t get there early. The duty free is small and there a couple of basic shops and two food outlets. Eventually found the business class lounge upstairs but poor cramped seating, appalling food and no wine, Jon had to go and buy a coke from downstairs for my bacardi.
Good Thai Air flight back but it is only 2 and half hours and by this time we just managed one glass of champers and fell asleep. Thankfully we did immigration in Bangkok rather than Phuket which can take an hour or more so back home by 11 am.
Final thoughts on this trip….apart from Sikkim, thoroughly enjoyed it, had some memorable and fun experiences, ticked off places that were on the list! I think I preferred our first trip to India with the exception of Goa, but I would certainly return to Darjeeling. Kolkata…would go again but prefer Mumbai and Delhi. Jon loved all of it!
So do we go south next time…..but then there is Bhutan (more steep winding roads??) and Africa to do, decisions, decisions!
Jul 18th, 2016, 05:52 AM
#46
@CaliNurse - no, I've ridden the Darjeeling train but not the one in the Nilgiris - that was where I got sick at the Taj Gateway and took a car and driver down.
@Cyansiam - Kolkata is my favorite of the four big Indian cities, glad you enjoyed it.
@Cyansiam - Kolkata is my favorite of the four big Indian cities, glad you enjoyed it.
Jul 18th, 2016, 01:07 PM
#48
( Toulouse is called "The Pink City" but I called it "The Yellow City" after wandering through its back streets. Maybe the wind was blowing in the wrong direction!) >>
lol, CaliNurse, you reminded me of what we saw in toulouse on the canal path - not just wee but someone with his trousers round his ankles - lovely! We got out of there fast.
Cyansiam - you have made me think again about Calcutta. That and one of the questions on University Challenge this evening which was in which city will you find the cricket ground named after the sisters of George Eden, Governor General of India! [to which of course I knew the answer but not why it had that name, until now!] BTW I think that I know about the Black hole - it was a prison cell was it not? looking it up on wiki, I see that the tragedy prompted Clive of India to invade Calcutta and thus increase the British hold on India rather than decrease it.
lol, CaliNurse, you reminded me of what we saw in toulouse on the canal path - not just wee but someone with his trousers round his ankles - lovely! We got out of there fast.
Cyansiam - you have made me think again about Calcutta. That and one of the questions on University Challenge this evening which was in which city will you find the cricket ground named after the sisters of George Eden, Governor General of India! [to which of course I knew the answer but not why it had that name, until now!] BTW I think that I know about the Black hole - it was a prison cell was it not? looking it up on wiki, I see that the tragedy prompted Clive of India to invade Calcutta and thus increase the British hold on India rather than decrease it.
