India--my husband is leery & comparison to other countries
Nov 19th, 2011, 03:51 AM
#21
I feel for you. You really want to go, and your husband not so much. If he really doesn't want too, I say don't try to convince him. I say this because:
India is not like any other country in the world when it comes to poverty, cleanliness, etc. It is colorful, bustling, loud, smelly, different.
The landscape is gorgeous, the sites are majestic. The people are kind and friendly. I went to an uninhabited city about an hour from Taj Mahal and it was magical. I had it practically to myself. Everything is colorful, the womens clothes, the major buildings, the personalities, the markets.
I have been to several countries in Central America. I have been to several countries in Asia. I have been to several in South America. Same with Africa. All had poverty, all have vendors that solicited the whole time, all had unsanitary areas, BUT
nothing like in India. You really need to prepare your husband for it. It smells like no where on earth. (including landing in New Dehli, the most polluted city in the world). It gets so hot that the smells really intensive. There are constant street burnings. There are animals going to the bathroom. There are ruins and shan't buildings that seem endless.
It is extremely crowded. 4 rows of cars honking on 1 lane, mixed with camels and monkeys. You will see groups of diseased people that will break your heart. There are bears on chains on the highways with people expecting you to pay to see them(I never expected that one!). Everywhere you go you are followed, approached and they touch you, begging, selling, etc. If your car window is open they will reach in begging for money. This is poverty taken to a whole new level than what you've been exposed too.
Everywhere you go, you MUST hire a guide. This controls a little of being almost "harassed" by all the vendors and betters. The vendors and betters are like no where you've been.
To previous posters that didn't understand the person who "complained" after being there 5-6 times you misunderstood. That person didn't complain, the husband didn't like what he heard from him.
My post sounds extremely negative and extreme. I don't mean too. I just don't think it's the kind of place that if you have to convince someone to go, they really shouldnt be going You either want to or don't. When you do, you have to be prepared, no matter where else you've been to, this one is different. If you have to convince anyone, they are not ready. People that think they are ready sometimes aren't. It smells like no other place. It's crowded like no other place. You will see tons of people swimming in fountains. You'll see tons of people sleeping on the ground. If someone dies, they cover them with a blanket and leave them there. You'll see diseases you thought were gone. It is not like other poor countries you've been too, not even close.
It can be magical, even spiritual. But it's not the kind of place you have to convince someone to go. Maybe if you picked a different Asian country to ease into it you'd have a more realistic chance.
India is not like any other country in the world when it comes to poverty, cleanliness, etc. It is colorful, bustling, loud, smelly, different.
The landscape is gorgeous, the sites are majestic. The people are kind and friendly. I went to an uninhabited city about an hour from Taj Mahal and it was magical. I had it practically to myself. Everything is colorful, the womens clothes, the major buildings, the personalities, the markets.
I have been to several countries in Central America. I have been to several countries in Asia. I have been to several in South America. Same with Africa. All had poverty, all have vendors that solicited the whole time, all had unsanitary areas, BUT
nothing like in India. You really need to prepare your husband for it. It smells like no where on earth. (including landing in New Dehli, the most polluted city in the world). It gets so hot that the smells really intensive. There are constant street burnings. There are animals going to the bathroom. There are ruins and shan't buildings that seem endless.
It is extremely crowded. 4 rows of cars honking on 1 lane, mixed with camels and monkeys. You will see groups of diseased people that will break your heart. There are bears on chains on the highways with people expecting you to pay to see them(I never expected that one!). Everywhere you go you are followed, approached and they touch you, begging, selling, etc. If your car window is open they will reach in begging for money. This is poverty taken to a whole new level than what you've been exposed too.
Everywhere you go, you MUST hire a guide. This controls a little of being almost "harassed" by all the vendors and betters. The vendors and betters are like no where you've been.
To previous posters that didn't understand the person who "complained" after being there 5-6 times you misunderstood. That person didn't complain, the husband didn't like what he heard from him.
My post sounds extremely negative and extreme. I don't mean too. I just don't think it's the kind of place that if you have to convince someone to go, they really shouldnt be going You either want to or don't. When you do, you have to be prepared, no matter where else you've been to, this one is different. If you have to convince anyone, they are not ready. People that think they are ready sometimes aren't. It smells like no other place. It's crowded like no other place. You will see tons of people swimming in fountains. You'll see tons of people sleeping on the ground. If someone dies, they cover them with a blanket and leave them there. You'll see diseases you thought were gone. It is not like other poor countries you've been too, not even close.
It can be magical, even spiritual. But it's not the kind of place you have to convince someone to go. Maybe if you picked a different Asian country to ease into it you'd have a more realistic chance.
Nov 19th, 2011, 05:40 AM
#23
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Well, last night, as Quovadis had suggested, we re-watched Outsourced, which is set outside of Mumbai. It did give us a bit of a feel for the experiences and sights and sounds of India, not the smells though. In the movie there was a young boy who kept pestering/hassling the main character; I assume this is what others have referred to. In other places we've had these types of encounters we've been pretty successful at just ignoring the person and keeping on walking. Whether this works for India I don't know. But, it has been very helpful for me to hear from so many of you that a guide/handler is necessary if for no other reason than to act as a intermediary to fend off people who hassle tourists. So, I guess we'll have to adapt our style a bit because normally we will hire a guide only to show us places we wouldn't know about on our own or that a good guidebook won't cover or that we couldn't get to on our own. As, I said, the only other Asian country we've visited is Vietnam, and in both Hanoi and
Saigon we wandered all day on our own going is to some smaller (and sometimes not so nice) neighborhoods and into chaotic markets. Sounds like this won't work in India.
I think what I am hearing from all of your posts is that one of the major differences between India and other places is that those invisible, Western, interpersonal space barriers are completely broken down, and what I assume to be normal is very different from what people in India assume to be acceptable. So, I'll be approached, intercepted, have what I think of as my space constantly bombarded. This reaffirms that we'll rent air-conditioned cars when possible so we can keep the windows rolled up. I assume that if one takes a tuk-tuk, one will also be assaulted from all sides; normally we are fine taking tuk-tuks.
Don't get me wrong about the litter and trash deal. It bothers me because I think it is a shame how people don't understand what this does to the earth, but I'd never let it keep me from enjoying a place, and I understand that trash removle and recycling are another privilege that is a result of living in a rich country. Romania is one of the most beautiful and enjoyable countries we've been to, but it was depressing to drive along beautiful mountain streams and find every place a car could pull over heaped with trash and often things like dead dog bodies. And, in fact, behind their backs we laughed at friends who didn't like Lisbon because the buildings weren't kept up and well-maintained. And, we were incredulous when we heard from someone else that she'd thrown away the shoes she'd taken on her trip to Turkey because she had had to use squat toilets while wearing them; Turkey was one of our favorite places , and squat toilets are no big deal to me. I'd take those over the gross hole in the floor toilet we experienced on an overnight train in Vietnam.
It does sound as though one of the secrets of successful travel is to try to find places to stay at night that are more peaceful, so they can be used as refuges when the day ends. I've got a copy of Sawday's Special Places to Stay in India and am using that along with other recommendations for guesthouses that sound like they are what appeals to us.
TorontoSue, we too are walkers who love to just walk around and wander all day, often I am sure walking 10 miles a day. Can you please tell me why in India you weren't able to just walk around like you normally do?
Again, thanks all. My husband is now becoming a little more accepting of the idea of visiting India. I am thinking we'll be including some time at a few national parks in our itinerary as well as possibly a hill station type place where we can just spend a couple days relaxing (this is our type of relaxation) walking the roads and trails.
Saigon we wandered all day on our own going is to some smaller (and sometimes not so nice) neighborhoods and into chaotic markets. Sounds like this won't work in India.
I think what I am hearing from all of your posts is that one of the major differences between India and other places is that those invisible, Western, interpersonal space barriers are completely broken down, and what I assume to be normal is very different from what people in India assume to be acceptable. So, I'll be approached, intercepted, have what I think of as my space constantly bombarded. This reaffirms that we'll rent air-conditioned cars when possible so we can keep the windows rolled up. I assume that if one takes a tuk-tuk, one will also be assaulted from all sides; normally we are fine taking tuk-tuks.
Don't get me wrong about the litter and trash deal. It bothers me because I think it is a shame how people don't understand what this does to the earth, but I'd never let it keep me from enjoying a place, and I understand that trash removle and recycling are another privilege that is a result of living in a rich country. Romania is one of the most beautiful and enjoyable countries we've been to, but it was depressing to drive along beautiful mountain streams and find every place a car could pull over heaped with trash and often things like dead dog bodies. And, in fact, behind their backs we laughed at friends who didn't like Lisbon because the buildings weren't kept up and well-maintained. And, we were incredulous when we heard from someone else that she'd thrown away the shoes she'd taken on her trip to Turkey because she had had to use squat toilets while wearing them; Turkey was one of our favorite places , and squat toilets are no big deal to me. I'd take those over the gross hole in the floor toilet we experienced on an overnight train in Vietnam.
It does sound as though one of the secrets of successful travel is to try to find places to stay at night that are more peaceful, so they can be used as refuges when the day ends. I've got a copy of Sawday's Special Places to Stay in India and am using that along with other recommendations for guesthouses that sound like they are what appeals to us.
TorontoSue, we too are walkers who love to just walk around and wander all day, often I am sure walking 10 miles a day. Can you please tell me why in India you weren't able to just walk around like you normally do?
Again, thanks all. My husband is now becoming a little more accepting of the idea of visiting India. I am thinking we'll be including some time at a few national parks in our itinerary as well as possibly a hill station type place where we can just spend a couple days relaxing (this is our type of relaxation) walking the roads and trails.
Nov 19th, 2011, 06:11 AM
#24
Really, you don't have to have a guide! I navigated India successfully on two trips with no guide, and only an occasional car and driver. I even rode a public bus, although only once. I rode a lot of trains, and a lot of rickshaws. (I'm a solo female travel)
Keeping on walking, and totally ignoring whoever is pestering you, works a lot of the time. The few times it didn't I stood stock still and stared at the middle distance, which shook them. I do get upset if touched, and react by turning furiously on the offender which stops it. I do urge you not to give to any beggars, except perhaps a few of the worst elderly cases, as this only encourages the begging "mafia" and is liable to get you surrounded. I was sorry to hear that the performing bears are still around - this is, of course, the result of people giving them money, as are the kids wanting money or pens.
The degree of dirt and the level of hassle varies. I found the south cleaner than the north, although there are still cows wandering around, and men (NOT just animals) using the streets as urinals. The worst place for hassles is Agra, I did hire a rickshaw for the day there, which allowed me to reply "have one" to the other drivers, who will swarm you when you leave your hotel. The next worst was Rajasthan. Again, I found the south much less hassle, aside from the need to bargain with drivers and watch them like a hawk if by some miracle they used the meter. (You're really better off negotiating the rate for the destination, then you don't have to track the route.)
I did walk around towns on my own. You do have to watch where you're walking - I found the edge of the roadway often better than the sidewalk, even assuming the sidewalk wasn't doing duty as a parking lot. If you go to the hill country or the mountains you should be able to walk in the countryside, although you might well need a guide for that.
Since I travel rather differently than the other fodorites posting here, you might find my TRs helpful. For 2001 (ten weeks) go to http://wilhelmswords.com/asia2001/index.html and for 2010 (six weeks) go to http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...an-sojourn.cfm or http://mytimetotravel.wordpress.com/...20/into-india/
Keeping on walking, and totally ignoring whoever is pestering you, works a lot of the time. The few times it didn't I stood stock still and stared at the middle distance, which shook them. I do get upset if touched, and react by turning furiously on the offender which stops it. I do urge you not to give to any beggars, except perhaps a few of the worst elderly cases, as this only encourages the begging "mafia" and is liable to get you surrounded. I was sorry to hear that the performing bears are still around - this is, of course, the result of people giving them money, as are the kids wanting money or pens.
The degree of dirt and the level of hassle varies. I found the south cleaner than the north, although there are still cows wandering around, and men (NOT just animals) using the streets as urinals. The worst place for hassles is Agra, I did hire a rickshaw for the day there, which allowed me to reply "have one" to the other drivers, who will swarm you when you leave your hotel. The next worst was Rajasthan. Again, I found the south much less hassle, aside from the need to bargain with drivers and watch them like a hawk if by some miracle they used the meter. (You're really better off negotiating the rate for the destination, then you don't have to track the route.)
I did walk around towns on my own. You do have to watch where you're walking - I found the edge of the roadway often better than the sidewalk, even assuming the sidewalk wasn't doing duty as a parking lot. If you go to the hill country or the mountains you should be able to walk in the countryside, although you might well need a guide for that.
Since I travel rather differently than the other fodorites posting here, you might find my TRs helpful. For 2001 (ten weeks) go to http://wilhelmswords.com/asia2001/index.html and for 2010 (six weeks) go to http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...an-sojourn.cfm or http://mytimetotravel.wordpress.com/...20/into-india/
Nov 19th, 2011, 06:48 AM
#25
Even if you don't read the rest of my stuff, I do recommend reading this piece - http://mytimetotravel.wordpress.com/...ters-in-coorg/ - the place I stayed was clean, super-quiet, and in the country. No hassles at all.
Nov 19th, 2011, 07:21 AM
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I agree with thursdaysd, you don't necessarily need a guide -- use them only where you want them. On my trips to India, I was able to walk wherever I wanted without any issues. It all depends on how you travel. If you are risk avoidant and want to stay in western hotels, eat western food, spend your time shopping and want to have someone there to hold your hand (and it sounds like you guys are not that type of travelers), then there are plenty of people waiting for you to hire them. If you are more independent and adventurous, willing to get off the beaten path, not afraid of new and different experiences, then you can do that too, with or without guides. As far as hassles, yes, there will be some, but how bad depends on your approach. If you hand out candy or rupees to the kids, be prepared for an onslaught. You are experienced travelers, so you likely know how to deal with such issues. Yes, India is crowded, but not everywhere. There are plenty of places to experience relaxation and quiet without the hassles. I've stayed at some of the Sawadays properties and found them mostly to be excellent. You are right not to believe that all of India fits the stereotype of dirty, unsanitary, dusty, infuriating, full of touts and hassles, and jam-packed with people. It IS all that, but ALL of the opposite as well. One can not possibly reconcile the India experience. I hope you have read my trip reports as well, if not, check them out -- my trips to India were absolutely fascinating and spectacular and I hope to go back again soon.
Nov 19th, 2011, 09:05 AM
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The only place I remember any begging was in Mumbai. I dont remember much anywhere else except for Jaisalmer where the older people who were disabled were begging , which we gave some money to but so did all the Indians as well.
In Mumbai I bought a bunch of bananas and would give the women bananas instead of money. Other than that I dont remember being bothered by it, more so in Asia than India.
In Mumbai I bought a bunch of bananas and would give the women bananas instead of money. Other than that I dont remember being bothered by it, more so in Asia than India.
Nov 19th, 2011, 04:18 PM
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Why would someone go 5-6 times if they didn't like it? Who knows but maybe its for job reasons or other reasons that necessitate being there vs. tourism. We were there for the 6th time one yr. ago to visit my wifes relatives and we spoke about it today in fact. For us its hard to take and she was born there. Yep, its filthy and crowded, noisy, hot and polluted and you must be very careful in that as a foreigner at least some locals have tried to rip us off. Its a fact that can't be denied. A guy in the Delhi train station tried to charge me 500 rupees for a coke but once my nephew intervened he pulled the change from his own pocket and came up some excuse. Right. The air quality in Delhi is terrible and the traffic there is the worst I've ever seen but there are great sights to see as well. Having seen them we would not go back but must from time to time to see her family though I must say next time, whenever that is, we owe it to ourselves to see parts other than the north. I have seen where Kerala is a far different experience so we likely will go there or maybe Goa or both. To the OP I think there are better places to see in this world but its really up to you. Others here seem to be fascinated with what we dislike about India but hey, different strokes for different folks. The first time we went I too was sort of fascinated in a way but I was like 27. 
Now its really a chore and frankly though we have to go again some day we really don't look f/w to it except to see our people. Just the way it is. I hope seeing other parts will change our minds. JM2C.
Now its really a chore and frankly though we have to go again some day we really don't look f/w to it except to see our people. Just the way it is. I hope seeing other parts will change our minds. JM2C.
Nov 20th, 2011, 09:43 AM
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What would be very informative Julies, is if you go an then when you get back, you post your impressions regarding your concerns here. There are lots of people probably wondering what you are.
You could do a regular trip report separately.
OK, so now you have an assignment and a mission. No time to waste.
You could do a regular trip report separately.
OK, so now you have an assignment and a mission. No time to waste.
Nov 20th, 2011, 04:15 PM
#30
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thursdays (Karen, I believe)--
I've been reading your blog you linked to. We are the same types of travelers definitly! I see you are in Bulgaria, and that is on my to visit list (I found a cycling trip of Bulgaria that looks fascinating).
I'd really been thinking about Hampi, but this quote (and my husband and I feel exactly the same way) has now saved me from expending the time and energy to go there. "For my part, I have concluded that very ruinous ruins are boring rather than evocative, and many of the remains at Hampi were decidedly ruinous. I don’t care that the rectangle on my left used to be the banqueting hall, and the square to my right a bedroom, they’re just patches of grass outlined by a few inches of brick (or stone, depending on the ruins)." And, not 10 minutes before starting to read your blog, I had looked at all of the info on Ezhara Beach House because I am not rethinking my rethinking. Initially, when I first started to think about India, I looked at Kerala and the south. Then, I decided on the north. Now, that I am hearing from so many that the south is actually less frantic and involves fewer hassles. And, a question about Goa: some parts of it sound lovely and charming. I'd been avoiding the idea because of all the package tourism, but maybe there is more to it than just that.
travelaw--
Just read your entire trip report, and it is immensely helpful becasue in many ways I'd saw our travel styles are fairly similar. Many of the hotels you stayed in are the types we would normally book (and some of them I'd already looked at online), so it was helpful to hear of your experiences with them. After reading your report, now I really am tempted to visit Jaisalmer and Orcha and maybe Jodphur too.
If we do this trip I am trying to figure out how to reconcile the places I want to see because there are several distinct clusters of locales--the southern part near Kerala and Karnakata, a few locales in western Rajasthan, the north central area near Orcha and Varanasi, and the northeast in
West Bengal and Assam. I guess I'd have to figure out if it would work out to do flights to the furthest parts of these locales and do ground transportation from there. hmmm.....maybe if we do this trip it will need more like 6 weeks.
atravelynn--good suggestion on your part, and if we actually do the trip I'll be sure to follow up.
I've been reading your blog you linked to. We are the same types of travelers definitly! I see you are in Bulgaria, and that is on my to visit list (I found a cycling trip of Bulgaria that looks fascinating).
I'd really been thinking about Hampi, but this quote (and my husband and I feel exactly the same way) has now saved me from expending the time and energy to go there. "For my part, I have concluded that very ruinous ruins are boring rather than evocative, and many of the remains at Hampi were decidedly ruinous. I don’t care that the rectangle on my left used to be the banqueting hall, and the square to my right a bedroom, they’re just patches of grass outlined by a few inches of brick (or stone, depending on the ruins)." And, not 10 minutes before starting to read your blog, I had looked at all of the info on Ezhara Beach House because I am not rethinking my rethinking. Initially, when I first started to think about India, I looked at Kerala and the south. Then, I decided on the north. Now, that I am hearing from so many that the south is actually less frantic and involves fewer hassles. And, a question about Goa: some parts of it sound lovely and charming. I'd been avoiding the idea because of all the package tourism, but maybe there is more to it than just that.
travelaw--
Just read your entire trip report, and it is immensely helpful becasue in many ways I'd saw our travel styles are fairly similar. Many of the hotels you stayed in are the types we would normally book (and some of them I'd already looked at online), so it was helpful to hear of your experiences with them. After reading your report, now I really am tempted to visit Jaisalmer and Orcha and maybe Jodphur too.
If we do this trip I am trying to figure out how to reconcile the places I want to see because there are several distinct clusters of locales--the southern part near Kerala and Karnakata, a few locales in western Rajasthan, the north central area near Orcha and Varanasi, and the northeast in
West Bengal and Assam. I guess I'd have to figure out if it would work out to do flights to the furthest parts of these locales and do ground transportation from there. hmmm.....maybe if we do this trip it will need more like 6 weeks.
atravelynn--good suggestion on your part, and if we actually do the trip I'll be sure to follow up.
Nov 21st, 2011, 08:06 AM
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julies -- happy to hear that my trip report was helpful. I posted another one on my trip to the south, which you may also find helpful if you decide to do that. India is so big, you definitely cannot fit it all into one trip, or even two or three! I tend to do more than I should because of my limited time, but as many here will tell you, less is often more, so I suggest that you select the few places you really want to see and build your trip around them -- trying to stay at least 3 days/2 night at a minimum. Can't wait to hear how this all shapes up for you!
Nov 21st, 2011, 09:12 AM
#32
julies - glad my blog is helping. (I'm Kathy, not Karen) Alas, the blog is way behind, I just got home and am recovering from a bug I picked up in Albania....
Although I'm a big proponent of train travel, I would suggest picking two areas - probably one southern, and the "north central" - and connecting by plane.
There is definitely more to Goa than package tourism, but you need to go inland. Check my report from 2001, and also take a look at Lonely Planet, which is quite good on Goa. I think it's worth (carefully) picking one beach, and combining that either with the Panjim Inn in Panaji and/or one of the country houses - I think dogster may have listed one of them, look for his "places to stay in India" thread.
If you're looking at Ezhara you might also look at Gokarna, depending on how interested you are in theyyam.
Although I'm a big proponent of train travel, I would suggest picking two areas - probably one southern, and the "north central" - and connecting by plane.
There is definitely more to Goa than package tourism, but you need to go inland. Check my report from 2001, and also take a look at Lonely Planet, which is quite good on Goa. I think it's worth (carefully) picking one beach, and combining that either with the Panjim Inn in Panaji and/or one of the country houses - I think dogster may have listed one of them, look for his "places to stay in India" thread.
If you're looking at Ezhara you might also look at Gokarna, depending on how interested you are in theyyam.
Nov 21st, 2011, 12:07 PM
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travelaw--Have now also read your report on the south. Great report, and it is definitely making me rethink and go back to my original plan of visiting the south.
Thanks to all.
We really need to make a decision soon (I think now my husband is leaning in the direction of going to India), so he and I really need to do some talking and also get a map out to see what would be doable/manageable/enjoyable.
Thanks to all.
We really need to make a decision soon (I think now my husband is leaning in the direction of going to India), so he and I really need to do some talking and also get a map out to see what would be doable/manageable/enjoyable.
Nov 23rd, 2011, 07:28 PM
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We just returned from India yesterday. I will start putting together a trip report next week with all the details. We had a great experience with V.P. Singh at Legends and Palaces -- everthing went off like clockwork (which is saying something for India!)
I strongly agree with the suggestions to use a car and driver -- it's a great way to go because it is still your trip, planned according to what you want, but it's nice to have that safety net. At minimum, be sure to have someone meet you at train stations and airports. We are (fiercely LOL) independent travelers, but we were very grateful that we had help in India.
As others have said, India is like no other country we have visited (and we have been to 52 so far). We had also heard from friends who would never set foot in India again, but figured we were the type of travelers who could handle it (and it sounds as if you are also). It is filthy etc., but it is also astonishing, and every time we got discouraged, something marvelous would happen to remind us why we wanted to come here.
We usually walk everywhere when we travel doing 7-8 miles a day, but we were disappointed that this was not the case in India. Even a short walk around town was very draining because of the heat, sewage etc. and so many people wanting your attention.
We concentrated on Rajasthan but also visited Varanasi (must see to believe!), Kahjuraho, and Orchha. In Rajasthan, we did a mix of cities (Delhi, Jaipur, Udaipur, Jodphur)and small villages like Bhainsrogarh, Narlai, and Jojawar. Having a car and driver also allowed us to make day trips to other tiny villages in the vicinity which we really enjoyed.
I highly recommend Bundi, my favorite smaller city (the old town feels like a village) located between Jaipur and Udaipur. We spent 3 nights here and could have stayed longer just for the laidback atmosphere. It's a real gem: still fairly undiscovered, very friendly people, no hassle (!) with a beautiful palace and marvelous step wells.
I also recommend heritage hotels -- lovely historic properties, many are former Maharajah residences. These places are furnished with antiques and have plenty of character and ambience -- they are fun and quirky (not over-restored but more rustic). Examples: Brij Bhushan in Bundi, Bundelkhand Resort in Orchha, Fort Bhainsrograh, and Rawla Narlai.
In general, we stayed longer at each location than is typical on a trip to India (we are also slow travel types), and based on your style of travel, I suggest that you select a couple spots and stay 3-4 night in each one.
I am just starting to think about what I might have done differently. This is always hard, because overall, I wouldn't change a thing, but here are some thoughts:
More domestic flights and less driving. Driving was one of our favorite experiences because the sights along the road are endlessly fascinating, but it's slow going -- distances are deceiving and too many days of 5 hours or more on the road become wearing.
Three weeks would probably have been enough us; we were in India for just over a month. Small annoyances started to become more of an issue after the 3rd week. If you typically do a 2 1/2 week trip, I would definitely suggest that you not test the waters of a month or more trip with India.
For us, a month might have been better if we had gone broader and included areas such as the north (Himalayas) or south (Kerala or Goa), but this was the first trip we have ever taken when we were both ready to come home. Which does not mean we regret going -- far from it. But we are suffering from major sensory overload and need time to process all our experiences.
I strongly agree with the suggestions to use a car and driver -- it's a great way to go because it is still your trip, planned according to what you want, but it's nice to have that safety net. At minimum, be sure to have someone meet you at train stations and airports. We are (fiercely LOL) independent travelers, but we were very grateful that we had help in India.
As others have said, India is like no other country we have visited (and we have been to 52 so far). We had also heard from friends who would never set foot in India again, but figured we were the type of travelers who could handle it (and it sounds as if you are also). It is filthy etc., but it is also astonishing, and every time we got discouraged, something marvelous would happen to remind us why we wanted to come here.
We usually walk everywhere when we travel doing 7-8 miles a day, but we were disappointed that this was not the case in India. Even a short walk around town was very draining because of the heat, sewage etc. and so many people wanting your attention.
We concentrated on Rajasthan but also visited Varanasi (must see to believe!), Kahjuraho, and Orchha. In Rajasthan, we did a mix of cities (Delhi, Jaipur, Udaipur, Jodphur)and small villages like Bhainsrogarh, Narlai, and Jojawar. Having a car and driver also allowed us to make day trips to other tiny villages in the vicinity which we really enjoyed.
I highly recommend Bundi, my favorite smaller city (the old town feels like a village) located between Jaipur and Udaipur. We spent 3 nights here and could have stayed longer just for the laidback atmosphere. It's a real gem: still fairly undiscovered, very friendly people, no hassle (!) with a beautiful palace and marvelous step wells.
I also recommend heritage hotels -- lovely historic properties, many are former Maharajah residences. These places are furnished with antiques and have plenty of character and ambience -- they are fun and quirky (not over-restored but more rustic). Examples: Brij Bhushan in Bundi, Bundelkhand Resort in Orchha, Fort Bhainsrograh, and Rawla Narlai.
In general, we stayed longer at each location than is typical on a trip to India (we are also slow travel types), and based on your style of travel, I suggest that you select a couple spots and stay 3-4 night in each one.
I am just starting to think about what I might have done differently. This is always hard, because overall, I wouldn't change a thing, but here are some thoughts:
More domestic flights and less driving. Driving was one of our favorite experiences because the sights along the road are endlessly fascinating, but it's slow going -- distances are deceiving and too many days of 5 hours or more on the road become wearing.
Three weeks would probably have been enough us; we were in India for just over a month. Small annoyances started to become more of an issue after the 3rd week. If you typically do a 2 1/2 week trip, I would definitely suggest that you not test the waters of a month or more trip with India.
For us, a month might have been better if we had gone broader and included areas such as the north (Himalayas) or south (Kerala or Goa), but this was the first trip we have ever taken when we were both ready to come home. Which does not mean we regret going -- far from it. But we are suffering from major sensory overload and need time to process all our experiences.
Nov 23rd, 2011, 09:06 PM
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Julie, the more i think about it, the more i recommend that you stick to the South (Kerala, Tamil Nadu, Karnataka). this area can give yo all you mention as of interest to you, without the omipresent things yo usay yor husband is wary of.
If interested i can give you soe itin suggestions. And/or, google something like "southern India tours" to get some ideas.
If interested i can give you soe itin suggestions. And/or, google something like "southern India tours" to get some ideas.
Nov 24th, 2011, 05:31 AM
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Magster--Your information is extremely helpful because we do sound like the same types for travel, and I am now getting the message from many places that paying for that extra bit of assistance is well worth it. And, the advice on how long to stay is in line with what I had already decided. If we stay longer it will be with some relaxing days spent out in the countryside of either the south or up in the relatively unexplored northeast area, both of which offer opportunities for hiking and a totally different type of experience than spending all of one's time visiting tourist sights. Can you tell me how your agency's pricing structure was and what you asked them to do for you and what you took care of yourself?
Calinurse--My current thinking is to mix two totally different areas with a cross country flight between. I am thinking of the south and then flying to Calcutta or Varanasi to set out to explore the far northeast states and Varanasi. My only vacillation is that I am tempted to add in a few other places in the north that sound particularly appealing--Udaipur, Jaisalmer & Jodphur and maybe Bundi. But, that is probably overplanning and overly ambitions for people who don't like to just pick up and move everyday or two and spend all of their time quickly visiting tourist sights.
Magster--I will look forward to that trip report.
Thanks again.
Calinurse--My current thinking is to mix two totally different areas with a cross country flight between. I am thinking of the south and then flying to Calcutta or Varanasi to set out to explore the far northeast states and Varanasi. My only vacillation is that I am tempted to add in a few other places in the north that sound particularly appealing--Udaipur, Jaisalmer & Jodphur and maybe Bundi. But, that is probably overplanning and overly ambitions for people who don't like to just pick up and move everyday or two and spend all of their time quickly visiting tourist sights.
Magster--I will look forward to that trip report.
Thanks again.
Nov 24th, 2011, 06:23 AM
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julies: my husband was also apprehensive before our 2009 trip. Someone recommended we look at youtube posts to get a real live view of Indian cities and locales. I found the youtube posts quite helpful.
In my trip report, I tried to list the caveats I think all travelers to India should consider. India is not for everyone. We met a Belgian couple in the Delhi B & B at breakfast at the beginning of our trip. They had been to India five years before and had said "never again." Yet there they were, five years later, back for another tour.
I can't wait to go back again.
In my trip report, I tried to list the caveats I think all travelers to India should consider. India is not for everyone. We met a Belgian couple in the Delhi B & B at breakfast at the beginning of our trip. They had been to India five years before and had said "never again." Yet there they were, five years later, back for another tour.
I can't wait to go back again.
Nov 24th, 2011, 08:50 AM
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Hi julies,
The way I worked with the travel agency is that I told them the kind of trip I had in mind and gave them my basic itinerary with each destination and the length of time I wanted to stay. I also asked for recommendations and made some changes based on them.
Then with a somewhat final itinerary, I had the agency provide a total package: hotels, ground transportation, tour guides, trains, and planes. It was so much easier to let them do it, and I was very satisfied with the results. I could probably have done the trip more cheaply, but I feel the service provided was well worth it.
For the hotels, I made specific requests but also took suggestions from them. Again, I was pleased with the hotel choices -- I was able to do a mix of cheaper places and a few splurges which worked out well for us.
It is very much a give and take situation working with an agency. You want to be as specific as possible when you outline what you want, but it is also a good idea to be open to suggestions.
The way I worked with the travel agency is that I told them the kind of trip I had in mind and gave them my basic itinerary with each destination and the length of time I wanted to stay. I also asked for recommendations and made some changes based on them.
Then with a somewhat final itinerary, I had the agency provide a total package: hotels, ground transportation, tour guides, trains, and planes. It was so much easier to let them do it, and I was very satisfied with the results. I could probably have done the trip more cheaply, but I feel the service provided was well worth it.
For the hotels, I made specific requests but also took suggestions from them. Again, I was pleased with the hotel choices -- I was able to do a mix of cheaper places and a few splurges which worked out well for us.
It is very much a give and take situation working with an agency. You want to be as specific as possible when you outline what you want, but it is also a good idea to be open to suggestions.
