Sometimes a local agent can get you better hotel prices and extras like room upgrades, sometimes not.

If you are hiring a driver for your whole trip, I highly recommend going through an agency. If you hire an independent driver, what happens if the car has mechanical problems, or if the driver is not a good fit for you? If you have hired through a local agency, the agency will trade out the car or the driver or both, as necessary.

If your transport is a mix of driving/train/air, then it may make sense to hire drivers at individual stops.

You can only figure this out by getting price quotes. Each situation is different.

I would approach the driver question scientifically. First, I would finalize my itinerary, and then I would figure out where I need drivers, and where I can take flights or trains. Jet Airways is fabulous for getting around. And if you haven't already gotten your international award tickets, you could possibly add the Udaipur-Delhi segment in there, so that you are "protected" should a delay occur.

Kathie did a good job of summing up the "finding a driver strategy," but I have had cases where an agency turns out to be a dud, and the driver is lousy. It's typically the case where the reviews are great, and then all of a sudden, they get bad, and I'm usually the first one to have problems.

My son and I also went on a mother-son trip to India, and I booked all the hotels independently. My son was in charge of arranging guides and drivers, and he found them through various sites on the internet. All three of our driver/guide "teams" were fabulous--they took us to their houses, and invited us to a wedding. I like the idea of controlling my own destiny, rather than using an agency. If I were in charge of finding guides and drivers, I probably would have written to the hotels for recommendations, but my son likes to find a known, established driver/guide wherever he goes, so that is that we did.

I am not a fan of using agency for my whole trip. It's like using a decorator for your house--it may look good, but it is not created by you, so it may not suit you. Try to plan as much as you can on your own, and use a hotel-recommended agency for "bits and pieces."

a. Your dear son will get bored with this kind of an Itinerary. Too many forts & Palaces. Your itinerary must have some exciting moments for him as well! Also, when he goes back to school and tell his friends about his experiences in India, he will be asked about Taj Mahal, an abiding image of India, at any school.
b. Chattra Sagar Nimaj do not have air-conditioning. The temperatures inside the tents will be 30c+ It may be tolerable once the sun goes down, but this is one destination which must be arrived at by lunch time, to enjoy the ambiance & activities thereafter, for it doesn't come cheap!
c. Why have Mehirgarh & Narlai at the same time? These are altogether two different scales.
d. Make sure that Holi festival is celebrated at your hotel of stay. It is a beautiful fest when celebrated among close circle of friends, a nightmare it is on the roads, outside the safety of your hotel.
Happy Travels!

Ok - Making progress here!! I'm going to book hotels directly and then will figure our trains/driver. How is this:

Delhi - Imperial Hotel
Delhi
Delhi
TRAIN to Jaipur - staying at Jaipur Friendly Villas OR Samode Haveli (comments??)
Jaipur - HOLI
Jaipur
TRAIN OR DRIE to Jodhpur - possibly RAAS...?
Jodhpur
DRIVE - Maybe 1 night Mihir Gahr
DRIVE - Rawla Narlai - 1 or 2 nights (which do you suggest?)
DRIVE - Udaipur - self-catering flat
Udaipur
Udaipur
FLY - Leave Udaipur for Delhi and home (or if flights requie, one night in Delhi and then home)

I would spend my Holi at Fort Chanoudgarh. The flavour is rural. Your hosts are the erstwhile feudatory chieftains of the village. You may get to see & hear the Bhopas, the bards who sing at local fairs voluntarily. They will not sing for money! James Todd before William Dalrymple, was amazed at their memory, of reciting thousands of lines of poetry verbatim. Their former feudal relations to these Old households draws them on such festivals.
My next choice will be Hotel Shahpura House (Jaipur). They hold the fest in a very decent manner, providing garments to resident guests, in case they messed up their clothes.
And of course ask your dear son to shout 'Holi Oye'!!!

Love both your posts, VP!! Agree about TN. Thanks for the input for Holi and lodgings--will keep as my own future reference, baed on what you've experienced in your travels.

There are other options and threads on this board and others, all making good points. My experience reflects Kathie's comment: a good agent/planner can get you better prices at some places. And if prices are the same as I'd make, i'd always go (in India) with the agent doing the bookings. An honest one will tell you what, and why, the recommended hotels (i.e. if better priced with travel agent). Don't assume you will pay more. Maybe yes, may be no. While by no means the only country in which this is true, there are just too many potential snafus in India for which I'd want the backup of a well-known (with hotels) excellent agent. (It's happened to me also in VN and E Africa--having a travel agent intervene on several occasions made a huge difference. )
There seems to be an assumption that travel agents will force you into a particular itin. Not so. In fact, that is a way to judge a good person with whom to work. A good planner will work WITH you, offer advice based on their knowledge --both personal and client feedback-- but ultimately help you shape what YOU want. Heck, I wish I HAD listened more to the travel agent's advice in a few countries.

sorry--typos,. In above post i meant TM=Taj Mahal. (Not TN--Tamil Nadu!)

My son and I went to India last June. Here's my trip report:

http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...-via-texas.cfm

My husband and I went to some of the places on your itinerary in 2009:

http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...a-to-india.cfm

I agree with those who recommend more time, fewer destinations.

Many thanks for appreciating, CaliNurse!

Also looking now at Hotel Shahpura House. Looks lovely!

bostonwriter..did you decide on your trip? I am also exploring straveling to south india with my daughter in March and I am interested in your itinerary. Where you will fly to from US? direct to Kochi from JFK?

JuliaJane...yes! We have decided, though I am now wondering if people want to weigh in on the final plans...my main concern is if we've built in enough down time. That said, this is what it's looking like (PLEASE WEIGH IN WITH THOUGHTS READERS!)

March 9th - arrive Delhi @1am technically 10th - cannot decide between B&B like Haveli Hauz Khas or splurge like Imperial.
March 10th - breakfast and day out with guide - dinner either at B & B or at hotel
March 11th - driver to Jaipur. PLEASE HELP ME DECIDE: Jaipur Friendly Villas (which I like because it seems calm/in a family) or Samode Haveli (which seems pretty and fun)
March 12 th - Holi in Jaipur AT HOTEL OR B & B
March 13th - Jaipur
March 14th - driver to Shahpura Bagh for relaxing
March 15 - driver to Udaipur - Jagat Niwas
March 16th - Jagat Niwas
March 17 - still Udaipur but outside of town at Raas Devi Garh
March 18th - Raas Devi Garh
March 19th - Rawla Narlai
March 20 - driver to Jodhpur Ratan Villas
March 21st - Ratan Villas
March 22nd - Fly from Jodhpur to Mumbai for flight home (arrive Mumbai at 3pm, don't leave for home until 2.30am...what are we doing all that time???)

THOUGHTS??

Hi BostonWriter: Been reading your posts with much interest. Regarding your flight home on March 22nd from Jodhpur to Mumbai----It is a small airport with not much to do......however, your flight might be delayed like ours was to Delhi for 5 hours. We were flying Air India which is known for delays. So, depending on your airline choice, you may have to wait to board. Good you have a good gap between arrival in Mumbai to home. What we did was book a room near airport for short stay to shower, eat and relax before long flight home. Access to lounge and gates are limited to a short time before flight, if I recall......

Sounds light you have a good itinerary.

BTW, In Jaipur, we stayed at Samode Haveli for New Years. They had a special celebration for their guests with special food and music, etc. I am guessing they will do the same for Holi. They were also very accommodating and service was great!

Happy travels.........

Thanks, Dragon88! I'm really torn about hotel choices so appreciate your input about Samode Haveli. And good idea about a hotel near Mumbai airport...do you think lounges will let us in a few hours early?

In general you are not allowed into airports in India until two or three hours before your flight.

please let me know about your south india itinerary also! I have been to Delhi, agra, jaipur, udaipur and mumbai but hope to due the south in March-although I am a little bit worried about the weather.

We are skipping the South India trip and going to Japan...

So you are going to Japan from Mumbai? You will be arriving at a very busy time as March is sakura time in much of Japan. Tell us about your Japan plans!

Japan this fall. India March.

Ah, I see. We loved being in Japan for the koyo in November.