Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Asia
Reload this Page >

Hong Kong Trip Report November 2015

Search

Hong Kong Trip Report November 2015

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Nov 6th, 2015, 07:26 AM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hong Kong Trip Report November 2015

Hong Kong Trip Report November 2015
Day 1
Greetings from Hong Kong

This is a destination that has been on the bucket list for a long time, but for whatever reason always seemed unobtainable. This year due to our sad,sad dollar in Europe and cruddy exchange rate as well as stellar airfare for HK this endeavor was brought to reality. I don’t have much to report tonight, but a little rundown is certainly warranted. Now, I never go into flight or journey details of what it takes to schlep the hubs and I thousands of miles, frankly because it is how most think of childbirth regarding the struggle and pain that must be abolished by the memory in order for survival of the species. However, for those who know me, much stress, anxiety and trepidation was had anticipating a 16 hour flight. So, I must report- the flight was delightful. Trying to outwit the airplane Gods, we selected our seats 7 months ago- an aisle and a window. Well the aircraft stars were aligned because the only spare seat on the plane was the one smack in the middle of me and the Hubs. Additionally, whether a flight is 2 hours, 4 or 16-it really is no difference. A good book, a couple movies, several naps, 2 meals and several anti-anxiety meds (physician prescribed) and before you know it the wheels are touching down.


We arrived in Hong Kong in the veil of black night and evening sky with golden twinkling boat lights illuminating the harbor like a game of battleship. I have never arrived in a city in darkness and it does add a feeling of mystery to it. We took an uneventful taxi ride into the city, me in the back seat, taking in the overwhelming lights and palpable energy. The taxi driver sitting in what should be the passenger seat as we Americans know it- on the “wrong side of the road” as HK was once a under British rule until 1997. Lights pulsed from buildings as high as the eye could see, condominium high-rises flanked each side of the highway, my brain trying to take in the entire sensory overload.


We are staying at the Ovolo Central http://www.ovolohotels.com/en/hotels...ovolo-central/ . This is a lovely hotel, modern clean and virtually every imaginary amenity you can imagine-including a free mini bar (including booze) restocked daily. We are on the 20th floor of this tall, slender, glass structure perched up on an elevated street. This is our home for the next 10 days.


A day and a half of travel really confuses one’s brain. Add a 13 hour time change and mood altering medications (prescribed by my Physician- people-and only for travel) makes decision making complicated. Sleep?Shower?Walk?Eat? After freshening up, we really wanted to get a lay of the land. So, we set out amidst all the activity of an energetic Friday night crowd. The buildings reminded me of a Jinga game, building after building on top of each other. We walked around while people spilled out from bars, snippets of conversations hung in the air and the overall humidity draped around my neck like a thick scarf. HK being a major metropolitan city contributed to the aromas that permeated the air. Indian food, Lebanese, pungent beer- all stirring up hunger that neither one of us were previously aware of.


Close to the hotel, actually next door was a cheeky, kitschy American diner-called The Diner http://www.thediner.com.hk/ . We sat in a red vinyl booth, with USA paraphernalia surrounding us as Laurel and Hardy served as background entertainment and ate –a Beet burger for me and Steak and eggs for the hubs. It was not bad, it was not great. Not what I would suggest on day one of an authentic Asian experience.

We are now calling it an early night tonight.

Tune in tomorrow for more tales of A girl, her hubs and a Suitcase
~B&F~
brookums71 is offline  
Old Nov 6th, 2015, 02:18 PM
  #2  
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,334
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Love your writing style! Keep it coming.

I assume you are on HK Island as you say your hotel is on an elevated street. I must look at your link to see where you are.

I hope you have time to take the scenic bus ride out to Stanley Market. A pleasant ride. Not that the market has all that much to offer, but the ride out and back is great. We made the trip TWICE in a short 3-night stay last time I was there.
simpsonc510 is offline  
Old Nov 6th, 2015, 02:29 PM
  #3  
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,334
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Just remembered that another thing we enjoyed was taking the boat over to Macau for the day. We looked around the casinos and did a little window shopping and dining. No playing the slots though.
simpsonc510 is offline  
Old Nov 6th, 2015, 03:59 PM
  #4  
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 10,563
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I am following but also am surprised by your comment about the state of the USD in Europe. Just before I read your TR I was looking at exchange rates and the USD is the strongest it's been in 15 yrs. or so and still rising. Europe is expensive but across the board the USD is up. A Euro yrs. ago would get about $1.35 and now it's about $1.07.
jacketwatch is offline  
Old Nov 6th, 2015, 08:22 PM
  #5  
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 23,073
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I agree. USD is strong and therefore HKD is strong. Local HKers have been flocking to Japan to shop.
rkkwan is offline  
Old Nov 6th, 2015, 11:11 PM
  #6  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
jacketwatch- I agree. But, past trips it has been as high as $1.40. More importantly, airfare and hotel is no bargain. I have been going to Europe twice a year for over 15 years so a change was needed.
My first love will always be Europe.
Thanks all for your comments. New blog coming!
brookums71 is offline  
Old Nov 7th, 2015, 02:36 AM
  #7  
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 10,563
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Keep an eye on the exchange. Years ago it was rough but now its much better. Currency values vary. When the Euro was very strong some Europeans found it cheaper to fly to the US to shop!

Yep, good to see different parts of the world.

Cheers, Larry.
jacketwatch is offline  
Old Nov 7th, 2015, 05:46 AM
  #8  
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 10,563
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
rkkwan: Good point. Both currencies are tied together. IIRC the yen at one time a few yrs. ago was around 85:1, now about 120:1.
jacketwatch is offline  
Old Nov 7th, 2015, 07:30 AM
  #9  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hong Kong Trip Report
November 2015
Day 2

Have you ever paid a stranger to fondle your ear lobes? More to come regarding this but first -greetings from Hong Kong from your trusty blogger and travel extraordinaire. Come join me as I share the adventures of two Americans causing mischief across the Orient. This morning, was quite the typical travel sleep kerfuffle (for at least one in this duo). As we are located right in the hub of nightlife here in HK, the walls of this fine hotel were gyrating and shaking to the techno beat of dance music until 4am. Fortunate for them, I was on Eastern Standard Time and had no idea what time it was. My body clock was so confused that sleep was an elusive moving target. Eventually, the music stopped (in the wee hours of morning), right about the time I also realized the difference between Celsius and Fahrenheit as the room was so cold it could have doubled as a meat locker.

Oh let’s talk about this shower….A lovely spa- like experience, a girthy shower where one can do a high kick if they felt inclined (not this gal) a Niagara water flow above, causing a magical cascade of water happiness. This shower has renewed my faith in all hotel showers. I was in hygiene heaven. Breakfast was served right next to the hotel in an airy café. A yummy buffet of tasty pastries, fresh fruit and made to order omelets was offered. This was all included in the price and fueled us for our long day ahead of us.

We strolled out into the thick humid air, that oddly at 8:30 am was like a work weekday, with bustles of people flocking the sidewalks, synchronized marching purposefully with a mission. Not sure what that was since most of the stores were not even open. The sidewalks, shining and wet were being pressure washed, rinsing away the havoc of the previous evening’s debauchery, due to the outdoor alcohol consumption permitted here. As we walked down the many steps in the region of Lan Kwai Fong, shards of large glass carcasses were dutifully swept away, making room for future revelry.

We landed at a Starbuck’s, picking a window-side table providing ample people watching on the busy street below. We sat there two hours, enjoying the city hustle from our quiet little perch. In the same building, was our next event in which we will discuss the hidden art of finger lobe fondling and where to get this done if ever in need of this procedure in HK.

On my bucket list has always been to get a massage in a foreign land. The concept is so ridiculously indulgent that the idea has tantalized me for years. The Chinese are famous for the art of reflexology and so to me this was the perfect trip to bridge these two together. We booked a medical massage and a foot reflexology massage at Gaos Foot Lank Kwai Fong http://www.gaosfootlankwaifong.com/contact.html . We were checked in and then they separated me and the hubs. In a small room I was led, with a woman that spoke no English. She barked harsh phrases and pointed non- sensibly to me and my clothing. I am still unsure as to what the commands were. I was thrusted face down on the table and this tiny 90 pound woman began to pummel me with her tiny hands, kneading her little digits into crevices creating charges of electrifying pain in areas I did not know existed. I yelped, moaned and even prayed –wondering what I did to this lady to deserve this. That is when the finger made its way into my inner ear and lingered several seconds to long caressing my ear lobes, in a rather Mr. Bean meets masseuse scenario. The hubs was not subjected to any inappropriate ear action.

This experience went on for 45 glorious minutes. I was then escorted out to another area where the hubs (who apparently had a very similar experience-sans ear lobe pokage) sat shell-shocked in a leather recliner. From there, the punishers immersed our feet into a hot bucket of soapy water and were layered with soothing, warm pads that draped our neck and shoulders. We were given some Chinese herbal tea while fake birds chirped in unison creating a bit of a Shangri-La type moment. We were massaged and caressed, a magical oil slathered on our feet washing away the previous memory of the torturing on the massage table just minutes before.

The services itself were quite economical and the foot portion was very enjoyable. If ever in HK, this is a must do-but just be prepared. This is not your Red Door Spa moment with eucalyptus permeating the air, hot fluffy towels and a nice thick robe. This is the real deal, no frills, work out the kinks and deal with the consequences later type of massage. Just know, you may stir something up, that you may not want to disturb. After the event, Frank was curiously nauseous and his belly was quite unsettled. I was a bit jarred and hurt in odd areas and still a bit traumatized by the knuckle popping techniques experimented on me. Other than that, it was a lovely experience.

From there, anxious to test out our newly renovated joints we began to walk on foot and “just get lost”. We made our way to the harbor. We took the ferry across the harbor to the neighborhood of Kowloon. The water on the harbor illuminated an eerie aqua marine hue. The waterway was ripe with activity. Ferries criss- crossing this rather short distance, making the waves choppy and rambunctious. The heat at this point was nearly oppressive and made me long for the “cool” climate of my home base in Tampa, Florida! Make-up, smelling nice and any picturesque moments was curtailed by the weighty sledge hammer of humidity.
Disembarking from the quick 3 minute ferry in Kowloon, we sought cover in an air conditioned mall. We found an outdoor balcony overlooking the harbor and ate a quick snack, soaking in the pleasant view. We made our way back to the ferry, back to Hong Kong Island, traipsing up the many, many steps (much easier going down than up) back to our oasis of the hotel.

We took heavenly (much needed) showers and took a luxurious nap, exhausted by the day’s events. Invigorated we ventured out into the Saturday night madness of Lan Kwai Fong (aka—party city). The scene is really indescribable but I will try. The energy is electric. The music pulses into your body at a cellular level. It is a diverse crowd but mostly young, good looking and care free. Awww, youth. The scent is varied and noxious at times. A combination of testosterone, rotting fish, stale alcohol and an occasional tantalizing aroma of many foods, grease, and sweat. The music is wide-ranging and each bar, restaurant and shop offers different sounds. The Doors, love me two times with that great guitar riff followed by salsa music next door. Then, in comes the thump, thump, thump of a techno dance beat that melds in with your atrial lub dub and this goes on all night (as mentioned earlier).

Our beloved nephew- shout out Kevin H. recommended his favorite Thai restaurant Café Siam http://www.cafesiam.com.hk/ . After last night’s diner debacle (although, not bad-just not Asian) we checked it out. On the third floor of the building is this small intimate restaurant. Tables with window seats, displaying all the craziness below offer a bird’s eye view, in a peaceful respite. Trying to be a bit outside our wheelhouse, we went with unfamiliar dishes. There is a definite difference between American Thai cuisine and Authentic Asian fare. I ate a tasty salad with peanut dressing and had a curry eggplant dish. Frank had a prawn appetizer wrapped in an item that resembled locks of golden curly hair. The meal was relatively affordable, the atmosphere was perfect and the portions were enormous.

After dinner, we hung out for a bit soaking up all the liveliness of the crowd. We made our way slowly up the 50 cagillion steps back to the hotel. Day 2 was full of fun, food and fabulousness.

~B&F~
brookums71 is offline  
Old Nov 7th, 2015, 10:41 AM
  #10  
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,334
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Your description of the air is similar to my grown son's description of the air in Bangkok: a mixture of car exhaust and fish! Strangely enough, he's right. I don't recall Hong Kong being as odorous as Bangkok.

Sounds like you are getting your exercise going up and down the stairs to your hotel.

I'm surprised the temps are as hot and humid as you make them sound. After all, it's now November.
simpsonc510 is offline  
Old Nov 7th, 2015, 12:17 PM
  #11  
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 10,563
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Wow what a massage! Sounds like a butt kicking ��.
I am surprised about the heat. We were there mid Oct. and then it was very pleasant.

Waiting for your next installment. ��
jacketwatch is offline  
Old Nov 7th, 2015, 02:03 PM
  #12  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
In full disclosure, I am a bit delicate. It has been 77 a low and 84 a high.
It does make my tale a bit juicier, huh?
Seriously, it is hot and humid.
Thanks for following!
brookums71 is offline  
Old Nov 7th, 2015, 08:29 PM
  #13  
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 10,563
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Ok and thanks. Still following. .
jacketwatch is offline  
Old Nov 8th, 2015, 03:49 AM
  #14  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hong Kong Trip Report
November 2015
Day 3

First rule of travel-be flexible with your expectations. This has been a tough lesson to learn but over the years, I have been forced to be at peace with disappointment, plans gone amuck and moving to plan B quickly. Today was a perfect example of this. Our original plan was to go a Viator excursion highlighting World War II famous locations and such. The company in my personal opinion is a bit sketch and I would recommend that you avoid using this untrusting company. They had rescheduled our original date to suit their needs. In addition, the tour was prepaid. It was a 4 hour tour and we woke up early to make it to the meeting place at 8:30 am. The meeting place was at the Postal office, and as luck would have it-there happen to be 2 postal offices within 3 blocks of each other. We apparently were at the wrong one. We waited 30 minutes and then resigned that this was not happening. We immediately started to rethink the day (Let me just add here, too-the tour was prepaid and sadly non-refundable).

We made our way to the ferry http://www.nwff.com.hk/public/home.php with the hope of going to one of the bordering islands off of HK. Lantau is reachable by ferry, a pleasant 30 minute ride across the harbor. We made a split impromptu decision and we were off. From the ferry, we took a bus up the mountain. This was another 30 minute drive up harrowing ,curvey roades and well worth the $14 per person round trip.

The bus drops you off right at the base of the village, with the Big Buddah statue shadowing everything else. The Big Buddah commands the area, bringing worshippers out from all over the world. It is relatively young (1993) but serves as a spiritual source of worship and luck for the devoted. Along the grounds of the statue are walking trails, ornate temples and oddly feral extremely tame cattle. They share the paths with stray dogs, the docile Monks on the property and annoying tourists, poking their steers and appallingly posing for selfies. Yours truly has a video with one as I made blubbering conversation and inquired if she-he spoke English?

After viewing some of the temples, we made our way to a vegetarian counter and purchased some authentic Asian light fare. Incents permeated the air causing a foggy visual residue. After much debate, I climbed the 268 steps in 90 degree weather to fully grasp the size and scope of the statue as well as the impressive views. And, indeed it was. Little old ladies with hunched backs and escorts bypassed me on one side, as blind men tapping their canes sidestepped me as I clung onto the railing heaving my chest and silently counting my pulse. Eventually, I made it to the top. Frank and I rejoiced (being as August I had knee surgery and had to relearn how to walk up and down steps). We soaked in the sights and slowly scaled our way down the steps-going down much easier.

We toured the grounds of the village, making a few purchases eventually finding our way back to the bus, down the 30 minute journey to the ferry. This was followed by the 30 minute ferry ride back to HK Island. From there, we trudged through town craving good old fashioned Udon noodles.
We stopped at a divvy bar called The Hong Kong Brew House http://elgrande.com.hk/restaurant/hong-kong-brew-house/ just in time for the hipsters to start their night. Peanuts on the floor and a grit that probably never leaves- we relaxed our feet and Frank had a beer. I had a“Lemonade” that was clearly 7up. The exhaustion began to penetrate my bones. From there, we went to an establishment called Crab Noodles http://www.openrice.com/en/hongkong/...-noodle/149949. The pungent smell of (surprisingly) crab permeated the small space and the slurping, fishy odor and odd meal selection choices prompted me to change my mind. So, we trudged on back to the hotel with a light snack of cheese crackers purely for substance. The day was full, and no meal could really have enhanced it any further.

We are calling it an early night as sunburn has made a mark on my virgin skin, the feet are beyond tired, swollen and on the verge of blisters. One side note, I want to add. This lovely hotel we are staying at, I complained about the all-night concert until 4am every day. Well, the room is equipped with fancy noise blocking curtains that are remote controlled. So, I wish to retract my statement as with this fancy piece of equipment resolved the all night madness pervading my dreams and disrupting my valuable rest.

Thanks for tuning in
Check in tomorrow for more fabulous tales of A Girl, Her Hubs and a Suitcase
~B&F~
brookums71 is offline  
Old Nov 8th, 2015, 07:59 AM
  #15  
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 10,563
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Good thing you found out about those curtains! Itsstill surprising that 20 floors up you can still hear all the racket. It had to have been very noisy!!

I like your descriptiveness of your experiences. It sort of takes me there. Also I do like local experiences when traveling especially when it comes to food and restaurants and it sounds like that brew house and crab place was perfect for that.

Cheers, Larry. .
jacketwatch is offline  
Old Nov 8th, 2015, 10:02 AM
  #16  
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,334
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Ah yes... the Big Buddha! My Thai friend and I went there, but we took the skyrail ride up and back rather than a bus. We did not venture up all of those stairs, however.

Too bad about your tour... My own hubby would have enjoyed something like that as he is a WWII history buff.

Sleep well, rest your tired feet and bones and enjoy your next adventure!
simpsonc510 is offline  
Old Nov 8th, 2015, 10:53 PM
  #17  
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 23,073
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
The Ovolo Central is on Arbuthnot Rd, literally above Lan Kwai Fong. So, it's a short uphill hike from MTR or Queen's Road. There are a few bus lines that go on Arbuthnot, but not that frequent, and not really worth the trouble. One can also walk down from Caine Rd. And it's too far east to make it worth using the mid-levels escalators.

Anyhow, I don't understand the confusion with the post office. I cannot think of any post offices that are that close together, and I would imagine you guys meeting at the central General Post Office.

Anyways, I am surprised you didn't take the NP360 cable car from the Big Buddha. It is a worthy ride.
rkkwan is offline  
Old Nov 9th, 2015, 03:15 AM
  #18  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
rkkwan
I appreciate your input. The walking has been a bit much for me, as I am bit older and a "rotund". But, the hubs and I have managed well. Being from Florida, we are used to hot weather, but I have found the weather uncomfortable and draining on my energy.
When we went to Big Buddha yesterday, as I had mentioned it was a very spontaneous decision. We had no travel book or any info. It has been very difficult to get WiFi out and about, plus we were already at the ferry when we decided.
I would not have changed the course of anything we did yesterday. We loved the bus ride.

Thanks for your input and continue to follow along.
I have other blogs from Begium, Portugal, Ireland, St. Petersburg, Russia and Milan.

~B~
brookums71 is offline  
Old Nov 9th, 2015, 03:37 AM
  #19  
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Following along and enjoying! Two years ago, at this same time of November, we spent 10 days in Hong Kong and could have stayed even longer. I don't remember the weather being too uncomfortable. IIRC, we were getting the outer edges of Typhoon Haiyan, and there was some rain for the first half of our trip. Some people were walking around in jackets and scarves (not us--we are from Chicago).

I'm going to look for your post on Belgium, as that is our next trip--coming up soon!
ms_go is online now  
Old Nov 9th, 2015, 04:30 AM
  #20  
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,334
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
My hubby and I will soon get our fill of walking as we head to Germany and Switzerland next week. Hubby is not what I'd call rotund, but he's chunky. I am tall and lanky..and fighting the good fight against colon cancer... so we don't have all the energy in the world but we always enjoy our strolls through the Christmas market in Kassel and the Bahnhofstrasse in Zurich. We are in our early 70s (I turned the big 7-0 just days ago)

Do take the boat over to Macau if you get the chance. It was very do-able as a day trip. An interesting comparison to Vegas.

We stayed at the J W Marriott. Is your hotel just up the hill from there?
simpsonc510 is offline  


Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -