Rod

Hello...I'm thinking of taking my family to Tsumago for a night. Has anyone been to this historic site and can recommend where to eat/shop/sleep?

Peter N-H

Tsumago has shops all the way down its main street, so there's no shortage of possibilities. Just wander along and see what you can find. <BR><BR>I've been twice and stayed at nearby O-Tsumago, a small cluster of old houses about ten minutes walk away and perhaps quieter. The first time was in a farmhouse set a little way up the hill, where I was the only guest. The second time was in a 100-year-old minshuku in the main village. But experiences were as echt Japanese as it gets--tatami floors, futons, furo, home-cooking, local river fish, etc.<BR><BR>These are notes I made on the second visit as part of a superb walking trip along the Nakasendo (see www.walkjapan.com):<BR><BR>'Of the original 69 post towns on the three week journey between the two capitals [Kyoto and Tokyo], Tsumago is one of the best-preserved, retaining both its honjin, the superior inn the authorities provided for senior personages passing through, and its waki-honjin for lesser lords. The Meiji emperor, newly restored to his throne after the collapse of the shogunate, passed through in 1880 and a special lavatory was built for him at the waki-honjin, which was then newer than the honjin, and in a better state of repair. He never used it, but it’s been preserved anyway.<BR><BR>'Other elements of the beautifully restored buildings are echoed in the traditional inn where we stay that night. All have tatami straw matting on their floors and square inset hearths containing sand, on which a fire is lit benearth a charred cauldron suspended from the ceiling on a fat chain. The chain also sports a large, blackened wooden fish intended both to guard against fire and remind of its dangers. None of the buildings have chimneys and the rising smoke is supposed just to percolate gently out through the roof. Nevertheless there was a pecking order around the fireplace: a smoke-free spot for father, a smokier one for wife and children, who also had to kneel on hard wood floor rather than tatami. <BR><BR>'Any guest sat in the middle, but this evening after dinner we sprawl around the hearth randomly, talking to a neighbour who has heard there’s a rare foreign group in town, and has dropped by to practise her English.'<BR><BR>Of the whole Nakasendo, the path from Magome to Tsumago is the most walked, and can easily be done in half a day (I went there and back in half a day the first time, but I missed some side turnings), and I highly recomment you do it. Even on this stretch I saw wild monkeys, one of whom plundered a persimmon tree in O-Tsumago while I was there. Most Japanese tours get dropped off at the top of Magome's hill, run down shopping for omiyage, and get on again. The rest of the route isn't crowded at all.<BR><BR>Would love to do it again, and couldn't recommend it more highly.<BR><BR>Sorry I can't be more help about the details of the accommodation, but there's a tourist office in Tsumago which will help you. And come of the O-Tsumago inns might be in the Welcome Inn programme. Ask JNTO.<BR><BR>Peter N-H<BR>http://members.axion.net/~pnh/China.html

Peter N-H

I forgot to mention that you can find further information about O-Tsumago and Tsumago at the following Web site:<BR><BR>http://hkuhist2.hku.hk/nakasendo/<BR><BR>Click on 'post towns' and go from there.<BR><BR>Peter N-H<BR>http://members.axion.net/~pnh/China.html

lynn hamamoto

great hike.I got stuck at one end,the scenic village site,can't remember which,but i was able to hichu haiku with a friendly couple to the nearest rail sta.they had a gps in their car so they found it easily.i found it difficult to hook up with the shuttlebus on the starting village and had to go the next day but the above website should help.no monkeys.few people.a moderate hike difficult for elderly and young kids.

Rod

Thank you Peter &amp; Lynn for the suggestions and comments. I've just made arrangements to take my family to Tsumago. We'll be staying at the Matsushiroya Ryokan, a historic Inn.