tengohambre

After much planning, and incredible help from the postings on this board, we are leaving for BKK and Phuket in a couple of days. TG non stop from JFK. We are two adults and two kids, 10 and 11. We will only be in BKK for about 3-4 days. Can you all give me some feedback on our BKK plans?

We arrive from Phuket about mid-day and we're staying at the Shang. (We will be at the JW in Phuket.) We figure that afternoon we will take a Khlong tour. Is there any particular route we should follow? Can we tour for only an hour or so?

Next morning we have booked Tong. The plan is: floating market, Grand Palace, Reclining Buddha, amulet market and maybe the flower market. Tong suggests a 6:30 a.m. pickup at the hotel. (Boy, that is really early - as in "who wakes up this early on vacation??&quot Is all this doable in one day? Anything we should jettison if we have to? Anything we can add?

The next couple of days we think we will relax a bit at the hotel pool (hopefully not much but, I fear it will be very hot, and the kids may rebel if no pool time) and then shop, and shop some more. On the shopping front, we can't seem to get a good idea of the particulars of the city, as in where is the best shopping street. And, the city seems huge. So, we think we may have to spend some time in the malls, Siam Paragon and where else? We want well made local stuff, not imports that we can get here in NYC. Clothing, shoes, bags and we could really use a new set of cutlery. Any ideas for where to head? Any particular street or soi where we will find such stores close to one another? And, what time do the stores close?

As for dining, which we are very fond of, based on Bob's list and the other comments on the board, how do these sound for dinner:
Baan Kanitha
Supatra River House (is there a show there? worthwhile?)
Face or Hazara
Blue Elephant (too touristy, too expensive?), or Lemongrass or similar
Thiptara or Jesters
Also, drinks at Scirocco one evening.
And, if the Puppet Theatre is still there we would like to see it too.

Are any of these restaurants way better than others? Others we can skip? For lunch, we don't really know, maybe dining at the food courts?

And, does anyone know if Suan Luam night market is still open? Would love to see that.

Finally, our flight from BKK to JFK departs about midnight and we have a late checkout at the Shang. So, we will aim for dinner near the hotel (at Thiptara across the river maybe?) What time do we need to be in a car heading to the airport? Thanks again for all your help. We can't wait to go.

Kathie

If you've been reading this board, you know I'm not a fan of the floating market. The kids might enjoy it, though.

The Grand Palace/Emerald Buddha/Reclining Buddha is a don't miss combo in Bangkok. You really want to arrive when the GP/EB opens at 8:30. It's easy to get there from your hotel by taking the water taxi (both there and back). This leads me to suggest that you use Tong for the out of town places and anywhere harder to get to from your hotel and do the GP/EB/Wat Po on your own.

Craig

I'll try to address your questions in the order that you wrote them:

Klong tour - I think you can do one hour. We did 1-1/2 on our last trip. Its a standard route - time passes pretty quickly so I wouldn't worry about the kids's attention spans if that is a concern. You might want to skip the snake farm and the touristy floating market (a different one from the one you will visit the next day).

The reason for the 6:30 AM start with Tong is to get to the floating market before all the crowds arrive. If you don't make a lot of stops along the way, the other things will be doable. I think you would get more out of the Grand Palace if you go on another day and arrive when it opens at 8:30 AM. You will then have an hour when it is fairly quiet and the temps will be a little cooler.

I don't think the malls in Bangkok are all that unique. If you are interested in one-stop crafts shopping, try Narai Phand which is across from Central World Plaza in the central shopping area. The actual store is inside - it is surrounded by other stores selling lower quality goods. Bangkok is a great place to get custom-made clothes but I wouldn't spend a lot of time looking for off-the-rack stuff as it is liable to be too small for you. Someone else might feel differently but I don't see any advantage to buying a cutlery set in Bangkok.

As for dining, Blue Elephant is a nice setting and its reasonably close to your hotel. I have not eaten there except for what I prepared myself at its cooking school. We have eaten at Hazara at Face and were underwhelmed. Others have enjoyed the Thai restaurant. I think you should add Harmonique to your list of Thai restaurants - it is also reasonably close to your hotel and quite inexpensive compared to the others you mention - the food there is fantastic and atmosphere is interesting.

It took us only 25 minutes to get to the airport for the BKK-JFK flight. We were flying business class so check-in went quickly. Leaving your hotel 3 hours before your flight should give you plenty of time.

jenskar

tengo
When you said clothing I immediately thought of several great Thai designers (the Playhound, Greyhound lines, also Fly Now) in Siam Center (I hope I have the name right, it's been a year), which is right next to Siam Paragon -- same skytrain stop. When you get out of the skytrain there's a central plaza with a water fountain, the mall I'm thinking of is to the left as you face that plaza. They do some great things with casual clothes, funky tshirts, interesting sweaters and pants and I don't think you can get any of it in the states/abroad. The line runs small/especially in the shoulders.
I'm pretty sure Paragon is the more upscale of the two -- someone here should know for sure.
The Jim Thompson silk bags are gorgeous, their outlet is a bit of a hike to get to and carries discontinued styles at a great discount.

tengohambre

Thank you for the feedback.

The Thai handicrafts store sounds good and we will aim for that too, along with the stores in Siam Center.

Concerning the Grand Palace and getting there first thing in the morning, are the crowds that much worse if we are there in the afternoon? My concern about not doing everything in one day is that once we are "up and running" on the tour day I think it might be easiest just to plow through.

Also, I think we probably won't be able to fit into Thai clothes but, the kids probably can. Is it the same even for shoes? Do those come only small also?
Thanks.

Kathie

Not only are the crowds worse in the afternoon, but it is hotter than Hades. The Grand Palace, Emerald Buddha and Wat Po will be the most crowded places you visit. But they really are all un-miss-able.

Craig

Bangkok is not a place to "plow through" unless you really want to get frustrated. Set modest goals for each day and if you have time left, consider it a bonus and spend the extra time chilling by your hotel pool or post a "live" trip report on Fodor's. We've been there 3 times, mostly en route to other places but we've always had enough time to enjoy our hotel and the great sightseeing, restaurants and shopping.

wolfmisc

Craigs advice Central World Plaza is a good idea. The next (and one of the best) mall from this place should be Central Chidlom on Ploenchit Rd. To buy where the Thais buy try MBK (MahBoonKrung) not far from Siam Square. Or Chatuchak Market (next to Northern Busstation) at weekends.
My girlfriend (and she is Thai) thinks a good eating place is Yok Yor, not far from River City complex and opposite Millennium Hilton on the waterfront.
If your cab driver is going to make it from Shangrila hotel to the new airport in 25 minutes he is better as Michael Schumacher. Our driver needed about 45 minutes from the Hilton and this was on Saturday.
Most Khlong tours take the same route and the trip is seldom longer than 1 hour.
Have a nice trip to my new homeland!
PS| Dont plan too much per day. We are close to 100 degrees now.

tengohambre

Thank you again.

100 degress? Ahy Chihuaha!

I will email Tong and see if perhaps we should head to the Grand Palace and Reclining Buddha one morning and then the Floating Market the next. I think on the second day she would have one of her assistants available.

Also, I think the day we would be touring is Chakri Day, which is a holiday. I'm not sure if that means more or less crowds everywhere, but I think more. Figures.

Kathie

Wolf, the problem with driving to the airport from the new Hilton is that the Hilton is on the "wrong" side of the river. In November, four trips between the Airport and the Royal Orchid (directly across the river from the Hilton), none took more than 25 or 30 minutes, and each trip was at a differnt time of the day. Because the entrance to the expressway is so close to the Shang, I expect the drive will be 25 minutes or maybe even a bit less.

You really don't need a driver to get to/from the Grand Palace area - you are MUCH better off taking the water taxi. Really, you can do this on your own.

simpsonc510

You asked about a central shopping district. YES, there is one. It's all basically along one street. It begins at the National Stadium skytrain station (the other end of the line that you will take from the river by the Shangri-La). MBK (MaboonKrong) is located here. Start at MBK and then it's very easy to walk along the skytrain route and on the many crosswalks above the Bangkok traffic!

Just across from MBK (diagonally) is Siam Discovery/Siam Center. You will enjoy both of these malls, I think. Across the "fountain" from Siam Center is the new Siam Paragon mall. Very upscale. The food court in the basement level is fantastic!! Do give it a try when out shopping.

If you leave Siam Paragon, you can either take the skytrain or walk to the next mall... Central World Plaza. It is on the same side of the street as Siam Discovery/Center/Paragon. Central World has many of its own shops that are not in the other malls.

Directly across the street from Central World is a very upscale mall called Gaysorn Plaza (again, same SIDE of the street as all the others). Look BEHIND Gaysorn and you will see the Thai Craft Center (NariPhand).

Now, a little bit further down the street beyond Gaysorn(past the Bangkok Holiday Inn) is a wonderful department store called Central. This one is called Central "ChitLom" because it is connected to and located at the ChitLom skytrain station. I always enjoy this department store.

If you take the skytrain a few more stops further down the SAME STREET, you will find the Emporium mall. I'm sure guenmai will chime in on this one. It's where she rents an apartment and shops and uses internet.

Jim Thompson silk was previously mentioned. Yes, it's GORGEOUS stuff!! I'm sure you will fall in love with it. Furnishings, fabrics, scarves, and the most BEAUTIFUL handbags and cosmetic cases EVER. Now, you don't have to go clear to the JT Outlet to find the stuff. You will find a JT department at Central store along with a JT store at your hotel, and also located at ZEN department store at Central World Plaza, to name just a few of the places where it can be found. I'd really try to find the time to take a look at JT stuff.

I won't go into the many shopping markets where you haggle over prices and buy things very cheap. Sounds like you aren't looking for such items anyway (although the Weekend Market at Chatuchak is certainly entertaining... although HOT and CROWDED on a Saturday morning). Chatuchak is located at the END of the "other" skytrain line at Mo Chit station. (There are TWO skytrain lines and the intersect at SIAM PARAGON area)

I believe SuanLum is still going strong. It's a fun night bazaar. The Joe Lewis puppet theater is located here, as well as a huge ferris wheel. This market is more pleasant that the weekend market, in my opinion, because it is in the evening when the temp has dropped a bit. Plus, there is a very lively food/entertainment complex where you can sit and relax!

BTW, your kids might enjoy going to a very unique movie theater!! At Siam Discovery mall, top floor, you will find the Gold Class Theater. There are only about 30 seats in the place. Each one is a lazyboy-type recliner. Some have massage built in. You get footies, blankets, pillows, etc. WHAT A GREAT WAY TO SEE A MOVIE!!! I strongly recommend it. The cost is so minimal when compared to the US. If NYC had a theater like this, you'd pay $35 easy... I think it might cost you $10 in Bangkok. Even if the movie is a dud, it's fun to view it at the Gold Class theater!

Enjoy your trip! Sounds like you are ready to go...

Carol

rhkkmk

carol--that was a fantastic review...you should copy it and post it up again....i would never have thought to start at national stadium but that is perfect...

btw, an ambulance will meet anyone at the end if they walk this route and shop at each place...

have never thought about it but what is wrong with a late afternoon visit to the grand palace??

it does get hot and crowded there by mid-morning, but i have never found the crowds to be all that huge that it was a problem.... having a guide would help a great deal too as they would be able to move around the groups....

harmonique is the perfect place for you as i suggested privately....

i don't think you can take the kids up in the state building to sirrocco, but i am not sure of that and there are dress regulations too....

tengohambre

I did not realize that Scirocco might have an "adult only" rule. I will check when I get to BKK. I had heard that Bed Supper does not permit kids under 21, so I took that off my list. I hope that, if we are only going to "inspect" the spot, and have a drink for us (something non alcoholic for the kids - any recommendation on that front?), Scirocco will let us up. I work with restauranteurs here and in other cities around the world and I really do want to see what is going on in some of these well known dining venues in BKK. Everyone copies everyone else in the industry.

Harmonique sounds good and we will include that.

Ditto Jim Thompson.
On the silk front, has anyone bone to Almeeta, which seems to get good review in the guide books?

Also, the movie theatre sounds great. I think the kids would love that - and never want to leave.
Thanks again.

simpsonc510

Bob
Thanks for the compliment! It's all that shopping I do while in BKK. I've got the route memorized!! lol

Tengo...
I've never heard of Almeeta. Is that yet another better silk brand?

Re Scirocco: It is a restaurant. I don't know that you can just go in for a drink and admire the veiw... I'm guessing that Sky Bar (the gorgeous outside bar on the 64th floor) is for sure adults only (and dress code). Is there any way you can manage a trip up there? You'd love the view, I know! I don't know how you would feel about finding a sitter for a while?

While on Phuket, you should try to make it down to Mom Tri's Boathouse on Kata Beach for a really "special" meal. I know it's not close to the JW but if you want a special evening meal, that's a good choice.

Also, there is a smaller but nice mall on Phuket. It's location is just about in the center of the island. We went there on a rainy day and enjoyed it for a couple of hours. Not sure what a taxi would run you from the JW.

tengohambre

I think I'm completely confused on the Sirocco venue.

I have seen pictures and reviews of some incredible bar on the roof of a skyscraper in BKK. It has a round bar up some stairs and looks over the city, with glass bannisters. It was recently ranked one of the top ten bars in the world. Is that Sirocco? Is it Sky Bar? Are all these at Lebua, or at the Banyan Tree?

If we are there early, say 7-7:30, and we want to have a drink and inspect the view, and are well dressed - including the kids - do they really turn you away? That is a bummer. Any other similar venue?

Re: Almeta silk.
I have seen it referenced in a guide book and have seen the website. Allegedly, it is similar to Thompson, with beautiful designs.

Do you know the name of the mall/shopping center in Phuket? We will rent a car, and have a guide in Phuket so, we would visit the place if we can.

I assume that, once in Thailand, if you see something and you like it, "buy it" and do not wait, thinking you will see it again. Is that the case?
Thanks.

simpsonc510

The bar you are describing is Sky Bar. It is at the top of a building called State Tower. It's really that awesome!! It is definitely one of the ten best in the world. There is another bar at the top of the Banyan Tree (can't recall the name). I prefer Sky Bar. I really wish I could give you advice on whether or not the kids can enter!

The mall on Phuket is called Central Festival. (Boy, am I glad I keep detailed journals...) It opened in 2004. It is on the northen fringes of Phuket Town. It's 3-level, there is a large Central store as well as cinemas (NOT a Gold Class Theater though) and restaurants. I bought a new Canon camera at an electronics store in this mall.

I will agree with the statement you made about "... if you see something you like, buy it..." I've made the mistake of not buying something and then not finding it again!

Enjoy your trip! I wonder if any of my friends in Bangkok might be able to answer the question about Sky Bar... Maybe I'll send an email or two...

Or maybe one of our fodorite residents of BKK will chime in here!

jenskar

tengo -- didn't buy any shoes, so I don't know -- or rather, my hsb bought some but they were made by a european label, so those sizes ran true to what they would anywhere.
Carol thanks for the detailed mall route -- that's what my fuzzy brain remembered but wasn't quite sure.

simpsonc510

Tengo
A friend who is currently in BKK is going to try to make a phone call to Sky Bar. I'll let you know what I find out.
Carol

tengohambre

Carol, and everyone else:

Thank you, and thanks about the inquiry on Sirocco. My pre-teens have already seen photos of Sirocco and are very excited about visiting it. My son is very into architecture and was already planning a school report on the place.

And, in the event we actually have to dine at Sirocco in order to get up there, I assume it is very expensive? NYC up-scale prices?

And, one more question:
Is Harmonique air conditioned?
Thanks

Craig

tengo, there is Sirocco which is a restaurant - maybe not NY prices but very high-priced for Bangkok. Then there is Sky Bar, just a bar with a fabulous view. If they allow kids to enjoy non-alchoholic beverages at the bar, that is the way to go - no need to eat at the restaurant. There are also two other indooor restaurants.

Harmonique does have an air conditioned section but it lacks atmosphere. In the non-a/c areas there are fans everywhere so it is not uncomfortable.