HELP - DRIVING IN LAOS
 

Hubby and I with 2 kids (14 & 10) will be travelling to Laos in early July for 2 weeks.

When we travel we would rather drive, as it gives us more flexibility and we like to go "off the beaten track" a bit.

Our itinery is not quite set yet, but basically...
We fly into Chiang Mai, stay a few days then drive to Houei Say. Do a 2 day cruise down to Luang Prabang. Stay 3 - 4 days. Drive to Vientane, stay 1 or 2 nights. Catch a flight to Savannakhet. We are thinking of driving from Savannakhet down to Pakse, then through the Bolaven Plateau doing a loop and down to Don Khon. Then we need to get to Ubon Ratchathani to catch our flight home to Melbourne, via Bangkok.

Just wondering if anybody has driven in Southern Laos? Would love to get any advice re: car hire, road conditions, rainy season issues, security, aor anything else that may be helpful.

Thanx...Leonie

I am a great believer in driving and have driven in many countries in Asia and my advice would be DON'T! Not in Lao.

You will be driving on what is for you the wrong side of the road, the car may well have the drivers position on the right which increases the problems. The roads are likely to make Australian Outback roads look like highways, particularly in the wet season and traffic rules are not even suggestions.

In any event, I think you would find it very difficult to rent cars on a point to point basis, except possibly between the largest cities.

The consequences of a breakdown or even a minor accident could be very expensive.

If you want to go by car, consider renting a car and driver, the additional expense would be very little and that way you all get to see the scenery and can forget about the navigation. However be aware that travel times could easily be double those you are used to.

Don't let me put you off driving in Thailand. If you want to drive around Chiang Mai you will find the roads good, people (generally) drive on the left, the car will have right hand drive and you can be sure of having the right Insurance, provided that you go to a recognized supplier. The driving will still strike you as crazy, but it is not as bad as Lao. That said, a lot of regular visitors to Thailand will not drive here.

Check out your Government's advice at http://www.smartraveller.gov.au/zw-cgi/view/Advice/Laos

Oh and do have a look and a chuckle, at http://www.smartraveller.gov.au/zw-cgi/view/Advice/Laos

He is not joking.

Totally agree with Tangata - Don't even think about it! I have driven all over the world (including most of Thailand -even Bangkok)and would not consider it. Plus, being from the UK I am used to driving on the left (not that that makes much difference as most Lao people probably don't know that they are supposed to drive on the left!). Even on the main roads, such as they are, you are likely to be run off the road by Chinese truck drivers high on amphetamines. On the minor roads, well these are just muddy paths.

Hire a car and driver and, even then, check the car thoroughly.

The drive you are thinking of is on reasonable roads for Laos apart possible from the Bolavens plateau ((I was there about ten years ago and it was really beautiful - particularly around Tad Lo. The Si Phan Don area is great but take care as to which island you choose as one or two are party type islands.

Wat Phu is worth a visit (a pre Angkor ruins). Pakse is OK but not a great place to spend much time.

If you do Hire a car and driver I would try to get a 4WD as the none tarmac roads will be VERY muddy in the rainy season.

Make sure you get ALL your passport stamps on entry at Houei Say as we got scammed at LP airport on the way out because we were not stamped by customs as well as immigration (there were about 4/5 stamps in total. They tried to screw $200 each out of us at the airport immigration for not having the stamp we told tehm we had only $50cash and they eventually accepted this.

Hi Leonie,
As another onetime Melbournite or Victorian at least and one who has ridden scooters and a bought motorcycle in Thailand and Vietnam I saw your post earlier and was a bit interested and went looking - Google Earth being great when nothing else handy.

www.talesofasia.com used to be a reasonable site a few years ago for trip reports and then, road transport in Laos would certainly have been wise to be avoided, Thailand and Vietnam quite OK, especially away from more populated areas as far as horrendous traffic conditions and no rules applying.
Tales last time I looked and not for long seemed more full of commercial stuff.

Anyway, have picked up that Laos Government does at least have a roads program and do yourself a half hour armchair tour with GE [follow the road along] and you'll pick up newer looking bridges here and there and what seems to be possibly now a mostly paved road or its damm well gravelled with a bitumen looking colour to it.
Reminds me of some minor country roads of country NSW, a little less quality than what most country Vic ones are like, especially nearer Melbourne, but if you've ever been out past Ballarat or Bendigo on to secondary roads, maybe something like that - even if new you could find paving quality in places leaves something to be desired.

The main things you'll need to take into consideration are as Tangata says, quality of road use re "what are the rules" and then "who knows them " or more to the point "do they bother about them"
At least you ought to expect to find very little vehicular traffic other than two wheel variety about towns.
GE will also allow you to see what villages not far off the road/highway might have nice river side locations and be worth looking for a thatched hut type overnighting.

Apart also from there being vehicle hire available, I reckon the other thing that could come into play and you mention it yourself is the wet season for July is about the start if it has not already started, maybe not a huge problem on the road if sealed but if any flooding about you'll not have the option for detouring somewhere like we can in Oz.

The route [and again GE shows it well] does seem to go through mostly what looks to be river plains type country, either adjacent the Mekong which can have enormous floods or near some tributaries, so go with an eye on the weather and have a Plan B at least.

The other issue that Tangata alludes to is that you're really on your own as to breakdowns as do not expect there to be an RACV depot about and because any vehicular traffic in the region has usually been more scooters about towns, you'll likely find very few villages/towns where you could expect to find a good mechanic if needed and then of course medical aid if needed could be a long way off too.

But drivable if weather is OK - certainly looks so.

I forgot to mention that it used to be the case that foreigners were not actually allowed to rent self drive cars in Lao but that may have changed of late, but even if it has I doubt they will do any one way rentals

I've been to Laos, but did not rent a car there. I like to be independent, but would not even consider self driving there.
Remember, that in countries such as this, if you are a foreigner and you are in an accident with another car/driver you are at fault. PERIOD. Doesn't matter if the other person drove right into you or whatever. Given the Lao govt's track record with foreigners & imprisonment, etc I would not take a chance on running afowl of Lao laws.

Leonie, I live here. The roads down to Pakse are pretty good; you certainly do not need a 4 wheel drive for this route. I have done it as have friends and none of us owns a 4WD.

Yes you can hire a car and driver, or just a car and drive yourself. You will need an International drivers permit. There are a couple of hire car places in Vientiane now, whether you can do a one way hire, (ie drop it off at another location), I don't know. You would need to ask.
July is in the wet season. At periodic intervals you will get heavy downpours, however as the roads are good this will not really be a problem.

I would say, "go for it". I have driven here for some years now and driving on "the rhs has never been a problem for me. The car you hire will definitely be a lhd vehicle - I don't know why Tangata suggests it might be otherwise. You will also have first class insurance.

Frankly Cruisinred's comments verge on the hysterical. "Remember, that in countries such as this, if you are a foreigner and you are in an accident with another car/driver you are at fault. PERIOD." Absolute nonsense! I have had a couple of incidents here, both not my fault, and in both cases the insurance handled everything at no cost to me and with no problems whatsoever. There are three nsurance companies here now and they are professional in their handling of situation. The only "afowl", (sic), you might run into is a chicken in the villages you drive past.

(As an aside, Cruisinred, I would interested to know what "Given the Lao govt's track record with foreigners & imprisonment" this refers to.)

So,Leonie, as I suggested, give it a go. You will certainly have more flexibility in your travel plans than flying or travelling by bus would give you.

Leonie, here is the web site and email address of Europcar in Vientiane.
www.avr.laopdr.com
[email protected]

I should point out that you do, of course need to drive defensively. But it is nowhere near as bad as some people make out.

Thanks so much everybody for your thoughts and info. We are still madly deciding what to do.

We are looking at booking the Grand in LP, but I read that there is currently no pool or spa. Anyone know the storey on that? Our other option is Villa Santi resort, looks nice.

One more question, is Pakse airport closed?

Would appreciate help, as we fly out this Thursday night and still have a bit to organise.

Thanks again....

Both the Grand and the Villa Santi resort are far out of town (perhaps 20 minutes). I'd choose somewhere else.

I agree with the above. Do you really need a pool? If you want to experience the tru flavour of Luang Prabang you should stay withinn the city. I would recommend the Nam Khan side; it is quiet, but central.