This is unbelievable. The Westin is running a special. Stay 10 nights and they give you a "Heavenly Bed." That's right, the bed. I've never heard of a business hotel running such a special. Beth thinks the bed is great, but the giveaway is ridiculous. I'm sure all the businessmen in Asia are counting up their nights until they get the free bed.

I've found out who's who and I want to buy my introduction to Bob back. No price is too high.

If it's used, the beds, I don't want it. Imagine looking at the bed, like in the CSI shows, with UV light - yuk!

"Most of the regulars are not publicly judgmental"

"Publicly" --- now that's the kicker!

Indianpearl-I was trying to be accurate. Plus, we know each other primarily through our public posts. Therefore, any private, petty judgments or caustic commentary (See Bob!) is irrelevant. Mostly, we are only snarky to the posters we like (See Ekscrunchy).

Gpanda,

Now don't forget that Beijing has 3 civil airports, one with 3 terminals, one with 2 terminals and one with 4 terminals. IATA codes are PEK, BEJ and DUM.

Make sure you go to the right one this time!

BooBoo...if you roll your laundry in a used towel and ring it out, the lovely Beth won't need her hip boots to get to the bathroom.

Glad you enjoied the summer palace.

I'm enjoying your report, gpanda. We hope to have another gig in HK in the next couple of years and would like to take some side trips to Beijing and Siem Reap.

Interesting about you and Mr. K. I'd thought you were childhood friends!

Andy - not loving the idea of you wringing out your smalls so thanks for that!!!!!!!
Love to Beth
S

We set off to the biggies, Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City at 7:30 to get a jump on things. We were dropped off at a corner across from the square and walked down to the cross walk. We looked at the monuments and buildings, but did not enter. I especially liked the statues of the workers at the south end. The square had some Chinese tourists, but no Europeans. There was much picture taking by the other tourists.

We went under the tunnel to the South Entrance to the Forbidden City. We used an Insight Guide to direct and inform us. It was very helpful. The FC is as wonderful as can be imagined. The enormity of the FC is amazing. I imagined it filled with people scurrying about on their assigned tasks. Each time we came to a building with a throne, I imagined not only the Emperor, but also the courtiers and servants in the hall. One cannot enter the buildings, but one can see in and imagine. Hall after hall, it was staggering. The Imperial Garden at the North End was a nice break. We then walked down to the Gallery Museum with a separate entrance fee. The jewelry was worth viewing as was the Screen of the Nine Dragons.

We then grabbed a bite at the snack bar outside the entrance to the Gallery Museum. A pleasant respite, if not fine dining.

Into the Clock Museum, again, a separate entrance fee. This was marvelous. It is a must see. Absolutely. The intricate clocks made in and for China were unbelievable. It was not the usual museum pace. We stopped at each clock and closely examined. I noticed the dates of manufacture and was amazed. In China, they were building these masterpieces in the early 18th century, when in America we were skinning muskrats in Needham.

BTW, when you’re at the Imperial Garden, near the North Gate, you get to the Gallery Museum and Clock Museum by turning right walking until you see a sign saying Gallery Museum due south, to the right. You walk south between two large walls with no adornment. Just keep walking and you’ll get there. The museums are in the middle of the FC to the east. Alternatively, you can get there in the middle by turning right off the Dragon line..

Exited the FC assaulted by cab drivers and tuk tuk drivers “offering” to drive us without using the meter. What a deal. None would use the meter. We got a cab by grabbing one that was letting someone out.

Off to the Lama Temple. This is super. It is serene and beautiful. Large and ornate with five interior central buildings. We were lucky and observed a ceremony with much chanting and ringing bells. The monks were in elaborate costumes with hats and shoulder mantles. They were chanting while reading pages of text. The grounds, buildings and temple interiors were all beautiful. This is another must see. There were more western tourists here.
It was now 3:30. The plan was to grab a cab and get some lunch, but Beth was starving and saw a sign for a vegetarian restaurant. We walked down a side street filled with shops selling incense and other religious items and found the place, Xu Xiang Zhai, N.26 Guo Zi Jian. We’re not vegetarians, but we were hungry. We got vegetarian sausages (great), eggplant with basil (very good), dumplings (fine) and Chinese Kale (fine). The place was pretty and soothing after a very long day.

Cab ride back to the Westin. The driver was very amusing. Somehow we avoided traffic when there were jams going the opposite way. He would point at the stopped cars and laugh hysterically. I broke with custom and gave him a tip. He and the Westin doorman were both surprised.

A wonderful cigar at the shop at the Westin. Montecristo #3. Perfect.

Having had a late lunch, we just grabbed some Udon noodles and dumplings at Ajisen Noodles around the corner from the Westin. This street has a Starbucks, KFC, TGIF and DQ. All were jammed with Chinese. Not to mention a tempting Pizza Hut. Our primary export. We checked out the swank Seasons mall across the street and it was empty.
How do these places stay in business?

So much fun going along with you to familiar places!

Lester took one in the knee a few minutes ago - walked off the field on his own. Will be at the Cathedral-in-the-Bronx tomorrow thinking of you and Beth. Maybe I'll eat Chinese.

Great report though - based on your post, we may actually visit Beijing some time in the future.

craig, certainly these SCANT facts could not convince you to visit a place...

what have you learned thus far?
they sell italian food to foreigners
they have decent cab drivers
the forbidden city is large
turn north, then turn east, etc---its a cloudy day...duh
cigar smoking is permitted
soup is on offer
the view from the great wall is fantastic
many buildings are being built in shanghai
most of the world's cranes are in china
that's about it folks...visit china based on this info

Pearls before RhkKmk. I'm hoping the sense of our excitement trickles through to non-Needhamites. Craig, I would definitely recommend Shanghai and Beijing as destinations. They are big cities, but they have lots of things to see. Not to mention the level of business activity is amazing. Just met a woman on the elevator who just flew in for business from Istanbul.

We've literally seen thousands upon thousands of people riding bicycles and not one helmet.

We did finally find some laundry places that do it by the kilo. They were over by the hostels just west and south of Tienanmen Square.

Am so happy that you like Beijing, and having a good time.

Thanks Fanny. Have a great time in Myanmar. see you in BKK in November.

For those paying attention, I note that this report is nearly contemporaneous with events. Of course, I could take off several months and fill in loosely, but I want to avoid the penalties. My guess is that given any chance, they would be severe.

>> We've literally seen thousands upon thousands of people riding bicycles and not one helmet. <<

Attention brain surgeons: Your fortune awaits!

No scooters? I noticed that in Vietnam, cyclists are helmetless but all Vespa riders, and there are millions, have them. Assume it's a law.

Thrilled you and Beth are enjoying Shanghai and Beijing, when you return to SHA, try to do some daytrips, a watertown and Hangzhou, I know DSS talked you out of Suzhou ...

I'm just catching up with you report. Great stuff... enough material for us to raz you about for the whole of the Bangkok gtg if there is nothing else to talk about. Are you staying on longer in Bejing so you can get your free bed? I note that we stayed at a Westin for the Honolulu gtg. They had a price list for buying the bed... the price includes sheets, pillows, duvets, etc and the King size was over $3000.

Up early, in the very nice pool when it opened at 6:00 a.m. It was 25 meters, not the 25 yards to which I’m accustomed. As I was doing laps, I was calculating the appropriate number of laps to swim ½ mile. It was swimming. What else was I going to do? Reflect upon the meaning of life? I may be shallow, but I swim deep.

Breakfast was a baguettes and some pastries set out by the hotel. Beth and I are having a running debate over whether these pastries are there for the taking or merely on display. She thinks that they are on display outside the coffee shop to lure in customers with the delicious appearance. I think they’re there for the taking. I note that there are a few plates and a set of tongs in front of the display. I’ve acted on my belief for all the days we’ve been here. Beth is worries about security cameras.

Beth had observed a street of shops close to our hotel on yesterday’s return cab ride, Fuchengmennei Dajie. We walked about ½ mile north from the hotel. The street is lined with small shops selling Lucite trophies, Shop after shop. Apparently, there are many, mnay trophy winners in China. We walked east and popped down a hutong to the right (north) to take a look. This was lined with shops selling groceries and many barbers. We took a sharp left about 150 yards down and saw a wet market and in we went. The produce and meat were all beautifully displayed. Each item was placed for optimum curb appeal (do they have curbs in markets?). Many pictures were taken. The mushrooms were especially good looking.


Walked down the hutong and bought a sesame cake from a vendor who was very amused to be selling to us. It cost ½ RMB. Delicious. If she were open at 6:00 a.m. I would walk up and actually pay for her pastries. Farther down, we bought a small moon cake with a date filling and the beautiful symbols embossed in the dough, 5 RMB. Also delicious.

Back to the main drag and turned east again. We literally stumbled over the White Dagoba. This was built by Kublai Kahn in 1231 and rebuilt several times. The history is described in an interior museum. The white stupa tower above the local skyline. It’s enormous. The gift shop had some beautiful stuff. I rang the bell for 1 RMB. This is worth a look, but not a must see.

Back out onto the street to catch a cab to Wangfuxing for a walk from the Lonely Planet Guide. This took us down the main shopping street in Beijing. It begins at Oriental Place across from the Beijing hotel. We popped into the Arts and Crafts Emporium, but it was much more emporium than arts and crafts. Out and wandered further up Wangfujing Dajie. It turns into a pure pedestrian street, very nice respite, and is jammed with Chinese. We went down a hutong south of the Haoyou Emporiumthat led to Haoyou market, with food stalls and tourist items. We managed to take a pass on the scorpions on a skewer that were on offer. They were still alive and squirming on the stick. It’s the place to go when you get a hankering for scorpion.

Back onto the main drag and walked up to Shuaifuyan Hutong (a right turn) for something more reasonable to eat. We went into Quanjude Roast Duck Restaurant, but left; they were pushing the big duck meal when we wanted a fast meal. We went to a place across the street described in Lonely Planet as Goubuli Restaurant, but the English sign had it listed as “Go Believe Restaurant,” close enough for pandas. We got delicious xlb’s and dark spinach dumplings and some greens. Wonderful. The passing on the duck was lucky for us and the duck.

Back onto the street and more wandering. Took a left onto Donghuamen Dajie. The night market was empty, but we’ve seen lots of those. We saw a piece of the old city wall and went on a search for the Courtyard restaurant, just to see it. Never found it, but we did stumble across a DragonFly location, one of a chain of massage places. We had wonderful one-hour foot massages in a very peaceful setting for 135 yuan. Beth said the massage helped a lot with a foot problem.

Back to the street, took a left onto Nanchizi Dajie. Some nice galleries and a great little park at the end.

Took the subway (Line 1) back to Fuxingmen station and a walk back to the Westin.

Now the bad part. The cigar store was closed, so no Montecristo. Fortunately, pandas are prepared and I smoked an Ashton Cabinet that I had brought. I sat across from the Westin watching a fantastic fountain. It’s computerized and has hundreds of outlets that spew at various strengths in changing patterns. For those of you that have seen the fountain at the Northwest Terminal in Detroit, this Beijing fountain is its grandfather.

Here's an issue. I went for a run at 5:00 a.m. this morning and when I was finished I walked over to the 24 hour convenience store to buy some water and pepsi. Of course, it was closed. The trick was further extended by its name "Hi 24". This is an anti-panda plot. 24 hour stores that are not open 24 hours. I guess the key is that the 24 hours are not necessarily consecutive.