Glover's ongoing report 2 mos. In sea
Jan 29th, 2011, 09:25 PM
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We had arranged with our airport taxi driver to pick us up at the hotel and drive us to the Killing Fields and to the Genocide Museum.
Very moving, very sad, tragic. How could Pol Pot have been so deluded? Our guide lost a sister during those Khmer Rouge years when his family tried to escape to Thailand. She starved to death on the way. He survived because he was still being nursed by his mother.
After that visit, we chilled at a forgettable riverside place for lunch and people watching. Then took tuk tuk to Central Market. Amazing, interesting building. Buy cheap reading glasses. Schmooze until sensory overload kicks in. Then go to Wat Phnom and National Museum. Whipped, we return to our Pavilion Oasis. By this time I've developed major league cold, so we are lazy and have another relaxing dinner by the pool. Even order the same delicious items.
We highly recommend the Pavilion if great water pressure isn't on your list of must haves. Lovely old manse, walled off from street chaos. We paid $50 total per night for our standard double room. But bed was comfortable, had a little seating area outside, huge flat screen tv that we never turned on, free in room wi fi. We had room 1 just behind lobby, but nonetheless quiet. Small bath with shower. No issues with hot water, just not much pressure.
Had our final included breakfast at the hotel ( passion fruit juice, eggs any way, fruit plate, very good bread (walnut bread and a baquette).
At 9 a driver arrives to take us to Siem Reap. We had Ponheary Ly arrange the river for us, as we were aiming for the Ly family 's Seven Candles guesthouse. Though the drive took almost 5 hours, it wasn't exhausting. Good road all the way and totally flat. We enjoyed the passing rural and urban life.
When we got to Seven Candles, Ponheary was off guiding, so we went off to explore town a little. Several doors down from the guest house is a great Apsara market that carries everything, including, at long last, reasonably priced wine.
We walk over to the govt residence and gardens area. Happen upon a nice artisan fair put on by Buy Cambodia, women's silk cooperative, etc. Admire several pieces, but fail to buy. Meanwhile sent h across the street to park/ gardens, so he wouldn't dog me on my shopping trail. He finds huge fruit bats hanging in the park trees. Interesting to see.
Enjoy reading Offwego's (Lori) notes at the guest house . . . Cambodia potty training 101' and many restaurant recs. We decide to go to Lori's current fav "touich" for dinner. Take a tuk tuk down the "boom boom" road to get there. Alas, we discover that they 're totally full for the evening. Owner?is very apologetic. We say we'll try to come back. End up at another Lori rec. "Selantra". Have some delish cream of pumpkin soup and a steak sandwich. Ridiculously cheap and good.
Cough my way through entire night. Rally anyway in am for Angkor visit with Ponheary. It was a nice time with Ponheary, who is full of temple info, stories, and info on Cambodia today. I tried again to wrap my cold clogged brain round the complex Ramayana story, which I had fAiled to do at the Shadow Puppet show in Yogy. Waaaaayyyy
Too many characters and plot lines.
We had originally talked to P about going to prek teal bird sanctuary one of our days. But we changed our minds after realizing it would cost us about $300 to make the trip. Plus P had some stories from her most recent trip that made it sound pretty grueling. To compensate, P made sure she walked us through the angkor forest and looked forbirds around there. She enjoys them too. Tomorrow we may visit a few other temples where we might also see some birds. Today we're holed up in the room trying to regain my health. Had P come with me to a pharmacy yesterday to procure some drugs.
Like it or not I was reassured that the cough suppressant I ended up with came from France rather than china. Surely some Codine would knock me out. But, alas, only moderately effective, so far.
Very moving, very sad, tragic. How could Pol Pot have been so deluded? Our guide lost a sister during those Khmer Rouge years when his family tried to escape to Thailand. She starved to death on the way. He survived because he was still being nursed by his mother.
After that visit, we chilled at a forgettable riverside place for lunch and people watching. Then took tuk tuk to Central Market. Amazing, interesting building. Buy cheap reading glasses. Schmooze until sensory overload kicks in. Then go to Wat Phnom and National Museum. Whipped, we return to our Pavilion Oasis. By this time I've developed major league cold, so we are lazy and have another relaxing dinner by the pool. Even order the same delicious items.
We highly recommend the Pavilion if great water pressure isn't on your list of must haves. Lovely old manse, walled off from street chaos. We paid $50 total per night for our standard double room. But bed was comfortable, had a little seating area outside, huge flat screen tv that we never turned on, free in room wi fi. We had room 1 just behind lobby, but nonetheless quiet. Small bath with shower. No issues with hot water, just not much pressure.
Had our final included breakfast at the hotel ( passion fruit juice, eggs any way, fruit plate, very good bread (walnut bread and a baquette).
At 9 a driver arrives to take us to Siem Reap. We had Ponheary Ly arrange the river for us, as we were aiming for the Ly family 's Seven Candles guesthouse. Though the drive took almost 5 hours, it wasn't exhausting. Good road all the way and totally flat. We enjoyed the passing rural and urban life.
When we got to Seven Candles, Ponheary was off guiding, so we went off to explore town a little. Several doors down from the guest house is a great Apsara market that carries everything, including, at long last, reasonably priced wine.
We walk over to the govt residence and gardens area. Happen upon a nice artisan fair put on by Buy Cambodia, women's silk cooperative, etc. Admire several pieces, but fail to buy. Meanwhile sent h across the street to park/ gardens, so he wouldn't dog me on my shopping trail. He finds huge fruit bats hanging in the park trees. Interesting to see.
Enjoy reading Offwego's (Lori) notes at the guest house . . . Cambodia potty training 101' and many restaurant recs. We decide to go to Lori's current fav "touich" for dinner. Take a tuk tuk down the "boom boom" road to get there. Alas, we discover that they 're totally full for the evening. Owner?is very apologetic. We say we'll try to come back. End up at another Lori rec. "Selantra". Have some delish cream of pumpkin soup and a steak sandwich. Ridiculously cheap and good.
Cough my way through entire night. Rally anyway in am for Angkor visit with Ponheary. It was a nice time with Ponheary, who is full of temple info, stories, and info on Cambodia today. I tried again to wrap my cold clogged brain round the complex Ramayana story, which I had fAiled to do at the Shadow Puppet show in Yogy. Waaaaayyyy
Too many characters and plot lines.
We had originally talked to P about going to prek teal bird sanctuary one of our days. But we changed our minds after realizing it would cost us about $300 to make the trip. Plus P had some stories from her most recent trip that made it sound pretty grueling. To compensate, P made sure she walked us through the angkor forest and looked forbirds around there. She enjoys them too. Tomorrow we may visit a few other temples where we might also see some birds. Today we're holed up in the room trying to regain my health. Had P come with me to a pharmacy yesterday to procure some drugs.
Like it or not I was reassured that the cough suppressant I ended up with came from France rather than china. Surely some Codine would knock me out. But, alas, only moderately effective, so far.
Feb 2nd, 2011, 09:04 PM
#43
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Rally a bit for our last day in Siem Reap. We go to Banteay Srey in the am with Ponheary and also stop by to visit one of the schools her foundation supports. It was especially interesting to hear about her work while we were on site. The principal's former "desk", a couple tree stumps and a board contrasted to the new admin building, for example. . .
LAter that afternoon we visited Taprom, the temple overgrown with vines and trees. Mystical and wonderful. Spoke to a tourist there who'd been bitten by a snake earlier in the day at another temple!
Even Ponheary was amazed by his story ( though snakes aren 't totally uncommon). Ironically, he was a herpetologist. He didn 't see the snake, and just as his friend was about to warn him, he stepped on it's tail, snake reared back and bit him on the calf. He grabbed it and tossed it and then couldn't of course find it to determine what kind. A couple feet long and light green he thought. He had it tended to and bandaged in town and was cheerfully nonchalant about it all.
Had a simple dinner that night at the Thai restaurant a few doors down the street and across from 7 Candles. Blanking on the name, but it's on Lori's list at the guesthouse. had the recommended fish cooked in banana leaf, which was fabulous. Dinners and a couple beers came to something ridiculous like $12 again.
Introduced selves as fodorites to Lori that night as she returned from a trip to Laos.
Felt sad to leave the next day. They put us in a car and took us to the airport. We were ridiculously early, but we made use of free wifi. It's a nice little airport in Siem Reap. Husband even managed to identify yet another bird. Our hour and a half Lao Air flight from SM to Vientiane was on time and uneventful. Even got a little box lunch. Talked to someone one the plane who recommended we not miss the Lao Textile museum while in Vientiane.
Completely efficient, fast, and hassle free visa on arrival, immigration, and customs. Taxi to Souphaphone Guesthouse, where we have a double on the third floor. As others have said, the room is big with high ceilings. Very clean and plain. Dark wood bare floors, a couple wood chairs, an armoire, night stands, small fridge and small TV with all imaginable channels. Spacious shower has hand held sprayer and water heater. We paid $25 per night to have included breakfast, but abandoned free breakfast after day one as there're cheap and more appealing options around. The very plain room downstairs where they serve kinda depressed me, only instant coffee, one juice, a fried egg and 2 of those hit dog like sausages. Next time I'd opt out of breakfast and pay just $20! Had a great breakfast this am at the Scandinavian Bakery, fluffy omelette, freh bread, fruit and great coffee.
We were shocked when we arrived a couple days ago to see how little
Mekong there is down by the riverside! Obviously they're doing a lot of work on the quay and road, and park along there that when completed will no doubt be quite nice. Not sure whether river level normal for this dry season or not. But on the Lao side the river banks are dry all the way down to the bed and some 50 yards or so across the bed from there. Looks like you could wade over to Thailand. Some we talked to said level is abnormal, others said not for this time of year. Speaking of which, the weather is fantastic, foolish with slight breeze in am and pm, sunny and not too hot in afternoon.
Yesterday we walked up to Patuxay monument, vientiane's version of the arch de triomphe. Climbed to the top for nice view of the city and the newly redone park stretching out below. Stopped for great lunch at Scandinavian Bakery, delicious fruit shake, iced coffees, and chicken sandwich. Stuffed we waddled over to the morning market to walk some of it off. Enjoy padding around in there. Spend some time looking at silks but feel overwhelmed by the stacks and vendors available. Take a look at the black stupa. Pay a visit to the tourist center and get a better map. Ask about the textile museum. No information. Some nice materials in there, but administration very grumpy.
Near the black stupa we fall into a really nice Lao silk store. As we are admiring everything, husband notices a pamphlet about the Lao textile museum and gets directions. We tell proprietor that he should give some pamphlets to the tourist info center which has no info. He snickers and says, "maybe because they don't want to know.". It's a little private museum.
We take bumpy 15minute or so tuk tuk ride out to museum. Behind a gate with barking dogs is a lovely oasis. Don't know exactly how much of it is the japan Lao cultural center. Amounts to 3 or 4 small buildings in nice quiet green setting. The museum is actually first floor of looms and second floor exhibit space for older pieces woven in the styles of various regions. A little dark up there, but wonderful pieces to see. The owner, a very gracious woman who speaks a little English gave us a demonstration on one of the looms, walked us around
The exhibit area, offered us tea, and assisted us patiently as we shopped and shopped and shopped. Beautiful things to choose from, not inexpensive, but high quality. We end up with 3 pillowcases and 5 scarves. All beautiful. Owner wraps each gift item in handmade paper and slips it into a small cloth bag. But alas there seems to be a problem with the credit card machine (- frequent occurrence here so it seems). Never mind, she says, you go ahead and take these with you and have the tuk tuk driver take you to my sister's shop (the place we'd just been)' and she will probably have more luck with the machine. So we take our $$$$$ worth of unpaid for purchases and thank her. Back at the town shop, the card fares better, but the process takes forever. But meanwhile we male some new friends in the store, further promoting the museum and exchanging travel stories. That finally accomplished, we return to home for a brief rest before a great dinner at Aria Culinary Arts. Split a good spinach salad and shAre some pasta and pizza. Great menu, expensive by V standards, but both pizza and pasta of high quality. Extensive Italian wine list from cheap to expensive. Fabulous homemade pistachio and also chocolate ice cream. Wine, beers, Salad, entrees, ice cream and tip come to just ogre $60. Perhaps our most expensive dinner so far, but a nice change. Owner comes by to chat with each table. He's an Italian who started working in hotels in Southeast Asia, married, and decided there was a niche for Italy restaurant in Vientiane. Only been here a year and appears to be quite successful
Might do a little more shopping today, get haircuts, maybe massage. Later we'll have our second dinner at Mephat. It's a wonderful and quite popular "training" restaurant just down the streets. Started by Friends International, it trains poor local people in food/hospitality biz. The food here is very inventive, Lao / fusion? And beautifully presented. Inexpensive. I had small pieces of beef tenderloin wrapped in betel leaves with a chili dipping sauce. Good idea to make a reservation here!
On to Luang Prabang tomorrow.
LAter that afternoon we visited Taprom, the temple overgrown with vines and trees. Mystical and wonderful. Spoke to a tourist there who'd been bitten by a snake earlier in the day at another temple!
Even Ponheary was amazed by his story ( though snakes aren 't totally uncommon). Ironically, he was a herpetologist. He didn 't see the snake, and just as his friend was about to warn him, he stepped on it's tail, snake reared back and bit him on the calf. He grabbed it and tossed it and then couldn't of course find it to determine what kind. A couple feet long and light green he thought. He had it tended to and bandaged in town and was cheerfully nonchalant about it all.
Had a simple dinner that night at the Thai restaurant a few doors down the street and across from 7 Candles. Blanking on the name, but it's on Lori's list at the guesthouse. had the recommended fish cooked in banana leaf, which was fabulous. Dinners and a couple beers came to something ridiculous like $12 again.
Introduced selves as fodorites to Lori that night as she returned from a trip to Laos.
Felt sad to leave the next day. They put us in a car and took us to the airport. We were ridiculously early, but we made use of free wifi. It's a nice little airport in Siem Reap. Husband even managed to identify yet another bird. Our hour and a half Lao Air flight from SM to Vientiane was on time and uneventful. Even got a little box lunch. Talked to someone one the plane who recommended we not miss the Lao Textile museum while in Vientiane.
Completely efficient, fast, and hassle free visa on arrival, immigration, and customs. Taxi to Souphaphone Guesthouse, where we have a double on the third floor. As others have said, the room is big with high ceilings. Very clean and plain. Dark wood bare floors, a couple wood chairs, an armoire, night stands, small fridge and small TV with all imaginable channels. Spacious shower has hand held sprayer and water heater. We paid $25 per night to have included breakfast, but abandoned free breakfast after day one as there're cheap and more appealing options around. The very plain room downstairs where they serve kinda depressed me, only instant coffee, one juice, a fried egg and 2 of those hit dog like sausages. Next time I'd opt out of breakfast and pay just $20! Had a great breakfast this am at the Scandinavian Bakery, fluffy omelette, freh bread, fruit and great coffee.
We were shocked when we arrived a couple days ago to see how little
Mekong there is down by the riverside! Obviously they're doing a lot of work on the quay and road, and park along there that when completed will no doubt be quite nice. Not sure whether river level normal for this dry season or not. But on the Lao side the river banks are dry all the way down to the bed and some 50 yards or so across the bed from there. Looks like you could wade over to Thailand. Some we talked to said level is abnormal, others said not for this time of year. Speaking of which, the weather is fantastic, foolish with slight breeze in am and pm, sunny and not too hot in afternoon.
Yesterday we walked up to Patuxay monument, vientiane's version of the arch de triomphe. Climbed to the top for nice view of the city and the newly redone park stretching out below. Stopped for great lunch at Scandinavian Bakery, delicious fruit shake, iced coffees, and chicken sandwich. Stuffed we waddled over to the morning market to walk some of it off. Enjoy padding around in there. Spend some time looking at silks but feel overwhelmed by the stacks and vendors available. Take a look at the black stupa. Pay a visit to the tourist center and get a better map. Ask about the textile museum. No information. Some nice materials in there, but administration very grumpy.
Near the black stupa we fall into a really nice Lao silk store. As we are admiring everything, husband notices a pamphlet about the Lao textile museum and gets directions. We tell proprietor that he should give some pamphlets to the tourist info center which has no info. He snickers and says, "maybe because they don't want to know.". It's a little private museum.
We take bumpy 15minute or so tuk tuk ride out to museum. Behind a gate with barking dogs is a lovely oasis. Don't know exactly how much of it is the japan Lao cultural center. Amounts to 3 or 4 small buildings in nice quiet green setting. The museum is actually first floor of looms and second floor exhibit space for older pieces woven in the styles of various regions. A little dark up there, but wonderful pieces to see. The owner, a very gracious woman who speaks a little English gave us a demonstration on one of the looms, walked us around
The exhibit area, offered us tea, and assisted us patiently as we shopped and shopped and shopped. Beautiful things to choose from, not inexpensive, but high quality. We end up with 3 pillowcases and 5 scarves. All beautiful. Owner wraps each gift item in handmade paper and slips it into a small cloth bag. But alas there seems to be a problem with the credit card machine (- frequent occurrence here so it seems). Never mind, she says, you go ahead and take these with you and have the tuk tuk driver take you to my sister's shop (the place we'd just been)' and she will probably have more luck with the machine. So we take our $$$$$ worth of unpaid for purchases and thank her. Back at the town shop, the card fares better, but the process takes forever. But meanwhile we male some new friends in the store, further promoting the museum and exchanging travel stories. That finally accomplished, we return to home for a brief rest before a great dinner at Aria Culinary Arts. Split a good spinach salad and shAre some pasta and pizza. Great menu, expensive by V standards, but both pizza and pasta of high quality. Extensive Italian wine list from cheap to expensive. Fabulous homemade pistachio and also chocolate ice cream. Wine, beers, Salad, entrees, ice cream and tip come to just ogre $60. Perhaps our most expensive dinner so far, but a nice change. Owner comes by to chat with each table. He's an Italian who started working in hotels in Southeast Asia, married, and decided there was a niche for Italy restaurant in Vientiane. Only been here a year and appears to be quite successful
Might do a little more shopping today, get haircuts, maybe massage. Later we'll have our second dinner at Mephat. It's a wonderful and quite popular "training" restaurant just down the streets. Started by Friends International, it trains poor local people in food/hospitality biz. The food here is very inventive, Lao / fusion? And beautifully presented. Inexpensive. I had small pieces of beef tenderloin wrapped in betel leaves with a chili dipping sauce. Good idea to make a reservation here!
On to Luang Prabang tomorrow.
Feb 2nd, 2011, 09:47 PM
#44
Finally catching up with your great report. Glad to hear the weather is good in Laos - I'm headed there in a few days (how long will you be in LP?). Will definitely follow up on the textile museum in Vientiane, and am glad to hear the Scandinavian Bakery is still going strong. The Mekong water level certainly sounds abnormal to me, there have been concerns about dams in China but I thought that was in the future.
Feb 3rd, 2011, 02:53 AM
#45
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Thanks, Thursday. We leave for LP tomorrow and will be there four nights.
Note that the restaurant is Makphet. I'm getting better, but am still prone to too many typos on the iPad. Mea culpa. The weather is coolish in the am, not really foolish!
Note that the restaurant is Makphet. I'm getting better, but am still prone to too many typos on the iPad. Mea culpa. The weather is coolish in the am, not really foolish!
Feb 6th, 2011, 12:15 PM
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..also, Glover, would you mind very much elaborating on your comment at the end of your very first post about Sanur not being what you expected.... (I've not been there since the 80s and expect it would be almost unrecognizable to me now...thinking of returning to the island maybe next year..)
Feb 6th, 2011, 08:43 PM
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ekscrunchy, we returned to Sanur in November 2010. Our last visit to Bali was in '85. I remembered many unpaved roads, open spaces, a slower pace, gamelin music floating through the lobby of our hotel. Sanur is more modern now and many more amenities are available.
We were delighted to see that some things had not changed. Love the black and white checkered sarongs on the statues... offerings and incense all over. A traditional gong was struck when we checked in to our accomodation, though not with any particular enthusiasm. It was a tinkle not a bellow. Still welcoming and special for us.
We missed seeing the bemos - in '85 we rode around with locals and chickens in the backs of tiny trucks. Now a smallish version of minivans has taken over. This year we rode around in airconditioned taxis.
Some things were actually better - we did not miss the blue haze from the clove cigarettes and there were plenty of interesting restaurants to try.
I was so glad to return to Bali.
We were delighted to see that some things had not changed. Love the black and white checkered sarongs on the statues... offerings and incense all over. A traditional gong was struck when we checked in to our accomodation, though not with any particular enthusiasm. It was a tinkle not a bellow. Still welcoming and special for us.
We missed seeing the bemos - in '85 we rode around with locals and chickens in the backs of tiny trucks. Now a smallish version of minivans has taken over. This year we rode around in airconditioned taxis.
Some things were actually better - we did not miss the blue haze from the clove cigarettes and there were plenty of interesting restaurants to try.
I was so glad to return to Bali.
Feb 7th, 2011, 06:57 AM
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Thursdays, thanks for reading along. I've been trying to keep up with your adventures too, which are very compelling indeed! We leave Luang Prabang tomorrow for Hanoi and will be in And out of Hannoi several times over the next few weeks. When are you there?
Eks I'd never been to. Bali ,so didn't really know what to expect. husband was there 23 years ago when even Kuta was quiet. Fodorites say Sanur is the quieter beach. But street side was busy, busy, busy. Puri Santrian where we stayed was a lovely property resort and we lived it up, but we're not that big on resorts, really. The beach outside Puri wasn't great. Guess I envisioned gorgeous wider more walkable beach. Beach there was very narrow, not very appealing for walking. We go to the beach a lot on US east cost. And we love beach, so don't do it that often on big travel. We loved Ubud much more than Bali beach.
Back to the report! just a few more thoughts on Vientiane. We did get haircuts! $7 Total for both of us. I have very thick short white hair, the likes of which the stylist had probably not seen before. H is nearly completely bald with nice little beard. She cut my hair dry and did a great job and H said it was best beard trim ever. Can hardly wait to show pics and my head to my ridiculously overpriced Georgetown, DC stylist.
After haircuts we went and sat by the waterfront and people watched a bit, Nice friendly vibe down there. Families and couples out walking, playing. Singles out working out power walking, jogging.
Everyone enjoying nice early eve weather. It's a nice town, we thought. A second dinner at Makphet restaurant made us realize the usefulness of polished staff (this is a training restaurant). We think we lucked out the first time and chose a good combo of apps and entrees. But this time we had too much food, too much meat,and not enough variety. Even though the nice menu has some pics Nd descriptions, it's easy to go wrong when you can't really get any info from staff (no English). Sometime you just wannask a question.. Still it's a great place with interesting food that's doing good work, so definitely worth trying and supporting.
Next day we had another quick and on time flight to Luang Prabang.
Quick taxi to our hotel, Lotus Villa. It's just a block or two off the river street, on the quieter end of the city, a perfect location. It,s
A nice little hotel, one historic building and one new one built on the old style. There are maybe 20 or so rooms, centered around a nice little courtyard, where the very nice included breakfast is served each am. Hotel is owned by resident Australians. We met Andrew who makes an effort to get to know all guests. We walked all over town our first day, including climbing stairs to Mt. Phousi for beautiful view over city at sunset. We love this town. Touristy? Yes, but in the best way, with lots of inviting little restaurants and shops, beautiful temples, nice people. We try to think of a US town with same feeling. Annapolis, MD? Mendocino, CA? Do all the recommended things and enjoy them all immensely, a sunset cruise on the Mekong, day trip via tuktuks to the nearby waterfall, a beautiful spot, elephant trek outside town(well ok so the best part was floating in boat down the Nam Kan river). Riding an elephant is good for the first 15 min or so,. . . . Loved the museum/palace, as well as the small ethnological museum. Made some spontaneous new friends from west coast one eve and ended up having a jolly dinner with them at the Arisai restaurant. Also good meals at. Blue Lagoon and Tamlak restaurant. Perfect weather every day. Blue sky and sun, slightly cooler in am and eve. We definitely get why this town is so
Popular. Glad we,ll have a little more looking around time tomorrow before our pm flight to Hanoi. Plan to get up to see the alms giving/monk procession tomorrow early. They come right down street in front of Lotus Villa. All 200 or so of them.
Eks I'd never been to. Bali ,so didn't really know what to expect. husband was there 23 years ago when even Kuta was quiet. Fodorites say Sanur is the quieter beach. But street side was busy, busy, busy. Puri Santrian where we stayed was a lovely property resort and we lived it up, but we're not that big on resorts, really. The beach outside Puri wasn't great. Guess I envisioned gorgeous wider more walkable beach. Beach there was very narrow, not very appealing for walking. We go to the beach a lot on US east cost. And we love beach, so don't do it that often on big travel. We loved Ubud much more than Bali beach.
Back to the report! just a few more thoughts on Vientiane. We did get haircuts! $7 Total for both of us. I have very thick short white hair, the likes of which the stylist had probably not seen before. H is nearly completely bald with nice little beard. She cut my hair dry and did a great job and H said it was best beard trim ever. Can hardly wait to show pics and my head to my ridiculously overpriced Georgetown, DC stylist.
After haircuts we went and sat by the waterfront and people watched a bit, Nice friendly vibe down there. Families and couples out walking, playing. Singles out working out power walking, jogging.
Everyone enjoying nice early eve weather. It's a nice town, we thought. A second dinner at Makphet restaurant made us realize the usefulness of polished staff (this is a training restaurant). We think we lucked out the first time and chose a good combo of apps and entrees. But this time we had too much food, too much meat,and not enough variety. Even though the nice menu has some pics Nd descriptions, it's easy to go wrong when you can't really get any info from staff (no English). Sometime you just wannask a question.. Still it's a great place with interesting food that's doing good work, so definitely worth trying and supporting.
Next day we had another quick and on time flight to Luang Prabang.
Quick taxi to our hotel, Lotus Villa. It's just a block or two off the river street, on the quieter end of the city, a perfect location. It,s
A nice little hotel, one historic building and one new one built on the old style. There are maybe 20 or so rooms, centered around a nice little courtyard, where the very nice included breakfast is served each am. Hotel is owned by resident Australians. We met Andrew who makes an effort to get to know all guests. We walked all over town our first day, including climbing stairs to Mt. Phousi for beautiful view over city at sunset. We love this town. Touristy? Yes, but in the best way, with lots of inviting little restaurants and shops, beautiful temples, nice people. We try to think of a US town with same feeling. Annapolis, MD? Mendocino, CA? Do all the recommended things and enjoy them all immensely, a sunset cruise on the Mekong, day trip via tuktuks to the nearby waterfall, a beautiful spot, elephant trek outside town(well ok so the best part was floating in boat down the Nam Kan river). Riding an elephant is good for the first 15 min or so,. . . . Loved the museum/palace, as well as the small ethnological museum. Made some spontaneous new friends from west coast one eve and ended up having a jolly dinner with them at the Arisai restaurant. Also good meals at. Blue Lagoon and Tamlak restaurant. Perfect weather every day. Blue sky and sun, slightly cooler in am and eve. We definitely get why this town is so
Popular. Glad we,ll have a little more looking around time tomorrow before our pm flight to Hanoi. Plan to get up to see the alms giving/monk procession tomorrow early. They come right down street in front of Lotus Villa. All 200 or so of them.
Feb 7th, 2011, 07:55 AM
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what US town closes off it main street every night for a market place all set up on the ground?? none i should think..
the vibe is more like key west, without cars or santa fe also without cars... maybe hoi an is similar
it is a unique place and a good place for some down time during a SEA trip
the vibe is more like key west, without cars or santa fe also without cars... maybe hoi an is similar
it is a unique place and a good place for some down time during a SEA trip
Feb 7th, 2011, 06:10 PM
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Ah yes, Key West, perhaps a more apt comparison . . . Subtract rowdiness. . .
Enjoyed watching the monks receive alms this am from people kneeling on side of street. Has been interesting too talking to some of the staff here at the hotel who have spent time in the temple.
And now, for something completely different, on to Hanoi. Hate giving up this perfect sunny weather. . .
Enjoyed watching the monks receive alms this am from people kneeling on side of street. Has been interesting too talking to some of the staff here at the hotel who have spent time in the temple.
And now, for something completely different, on to Hanoi. Hate giving up this perfect sunny weather. . .
Feb 7th, 2011, 06:16 PM
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Ha! On all too many weekend occasions, main streets in my town are closed for markets of a sort--we call them "street fairs!"
Glover: Many thanks for the clarification on Sanur (I was there only once and did not really fall for it; I did love Ubud but wonder how much that has changed in the interim) and for the ongoing report....I am hoping to take another trip to the area next year so this is very helpful..
Glover: Many thanks for the clarification on Sanur (I was there only once and did not really fall for it; I did love Ubud but wonder how much that has changed in the interim) and for the ongoing report....I am hoping to take another trip to the area next year so this is very helpful..
Feb 7th, 2011, 07:56 PM
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Just caught up with your report. Glad you liked LP. I think that of the places I went in Laos Luang Prabang was definately my favorite.
I am glad you had good weather. It must have warmed up a bit in the last few weeks.
I am glad you had good weather. It must have warmed up a bit in the last few weeks.
Feb 14th, 2011, 07:17 PM
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After a lovely relaxing time in Luang Prabang, we flew Viet Nam Air to Hanoi. Easy, on time flight (can our luck last?). We had had Tonkin Travel do the letter thing to present to immigration for the visa on arrival (so to speak). Just as others have said that process still took some time, checking computers, stamping, paying, all done by different people. No trouble finding our driver arranged by Tonkin. Get the all important dong from ATM. Long drive to city, if only because it was late afternoon and there was a broken down car. It was a good initiation for us to Hanoi, as we got to see motorcycles pass us on the shoulder on the right and on the left as well.
At last we arrive at Tonkin's office and meet the lovely Ms. Huong and fork over our money. She goes over the itinerary with us and gives us our placemat gift. (no better gift for me who loves place mats, you'd think we entertain nonstop from the numbers stockpiled)
after perhaps another 20 minute drive we arrive at our hotel the Imperial Hanoi, sort of on the edge of the OldQuarter. It's a 3 star
Seems a tad dark and dreary to us initially, but it grew on us after awhile. Room is large with good bed and perhaps best shower water pressure yet. We're on 6th floor, highest the elevator goes. A short flight of steps up is the breakfast area, with a view of sorts. So so buffet breakfast is included, eggs any way, pretty good coffee, tasteless fruit, and more traditional Vietnamese items, fried rice, noodle soup, etc.
Walk to a simple, cheap cafe for dinner. Husband nearly clipped by motorcyle at one corner. He blames self for momentary alertness lapse. We manage to do well walking for the next days thereafter. Chat with some young German backpackers at next table.
Spend almost three whole days in Hanoi. Walk almost everywhere. The weather is unseasonably warm, so we're in shirt sleeves the whole time. Great. Spend some nice time by the lake just people watching.
Enjoy the whole "scene" at Uncle Ho's mausoleum - the hordes of international people, the soldiers, the space devoted to one body. . .
Laugh over Lonely Planet's? Info that says mausoleum is closed in November when Ho goes to Russia "for unspecified body work". Take in everything in the area, the palace, Ho's house on stilts.
Sorry we weren't able to connect with Hanoi Kids, as we'd intended, while we were there, but they were all on Tet vacation. Maybe we'll connect with them in HoiAn. Also visited the history museum, the fine arts museum, the prison. H was in the Navy and stationed near Qua Viet in the war. (we'll visit there in a few days). He was skeptical of some of the info at the prison, specifically 22 B52s shot down in 11 days? Ah, but where exactly would we look for the "true" facts?
Took a look at the Thang Long gallery that others here had mentioned. Really nice gallery. What did we buy? 3 fiberglass lacquered bracelets and necklaces on display that they said were made by art students. Great easy gifts, every one different. $3 for the bracelets, $2 for the necklaces. Saw the same kind in stores in Sapa today where they wanted $11 for the bracelets. I felt so smug.
After visiting temple of literature, we walked across the street and had nice lunch at Koto. It's nice to see so many of these training restaurants and we're happy to support them.
While we've been trying and enjoying lots of different Vietnamese food, have to admit that one of our favorite places in Hanoi so far has been Mediterraneo, where we ate twice. It was great change to have an arrugula salad, great thin crust pizza and a good glass of wine. We had a dinner at Green Tangerine too. It was good, but it seemed a tad overwrought to me. Everything seemed to be in pastry.
Pretty place though. Will try to get to Ly club before final night in Hanoi.
Left some laundry with the hotel. Tonkin driver collected us for night train to Sapa. Though we are normally Do it our selfers, we did appreciate having the whole train thing done for us, as it appeared rather chaotic. We had a compartment for two one way, and occupied a four berth one for two of us on way back. We were excited by the novelty of a sleeper train, as we'd never been on one before. Felt like we were in a murder mystery. Drink our free warm beers, read a bit, look out window, crawl under single coverlet. We agree that we were comfortable enough all night, but nevertheless slept little. Just not sound enough sleepers to sleep while rockin and Rollin. Just like on planes, probably just manage to start sleeping upon arrival...
Pull into Lao Cai at 4:30am. We're met by our Tonkin arranged local guide and driver (Sapa partners of Tonkin). Have included breakfast at restaurant near train station. Good enough. Seems like we then drove straight to the Can Cau market, which occurs only on Saturday. Crazy drive. Weather was cool and very foggy. Mountain roads were narrow and windy of course. Driver did a great job negotiating them in our non 4 wheel drive sedan. Wonderful experience at the market. Watched a woman make soy milk, saw some livestock sales, bird song contests. Beautiful handicrafts. Bought a scarf, a small backpack, and another zipped bag, each about $5. We were probably first customers to arrive. The crowds came later. Stopped at and walked through another village and then took a short boat trip down the river. Liked our guide a lot, though he was sometimes difficult to understand. An extremely outgoing guy, he knew everyone and had something to say to everyone in all the villages we visited. We had tea and tasted some corn liquor in houses of several families. They were all gracious and welcoming.
Of course we were trailed through each village by a crowd of women selling crafts. As I had already bought what I wAnted at can cau, I resisted buying anything else, and decided just to enjoy the conversation. And once I did that, I felt less like I was being pestered. It's amazing how far just talking about family can take you. In fact, I was sorry not to have brought some grandchild pics, as some village grandmas enjoyed introducing theirs. . . think they'd have enjoyed that exchange.
Sorry to say that the weather was wretched for our 3 Sapa days. Cold and mist and fog (wore thermals, heavy tshirt, fleece and scarf when trekking, topped that with rain jacket today). Note that all these things plus hats, gloves, and hiking shoes are sold in sapa. And I noticed rubber boots "for rent" today. We mostly loved our Boutique Sapa Hotel, where they have the most beautiful and charming female staff. They all fussed over us. Food in their Bella Vista restaurant was so good that we ate there both nights. They specialize in hot pots, and whT could be better for our Sapa weather. Delicious. Our nice room would have had a spectacular valley view, had we not been totally socked in. Nevertheless, we did get some good views driving and walking from time to time as fog moved around. We knew we might be in for some bad weather this time of year, so we were prepared physically and mentally. . . Weather looks promising this week though for Halong, so we really can't complain.
Had a great foot scrub and manicure yesterday when we returned from trek. H had another massage. Nice little place next door down hill from our hotel. Prices were higher in Sapa, but still very cheap for us.
Wandered around Sapa town this am on our own, through the market there. Loved seeing pigs heads, hooves laid out. (enjoyed seeing the many, many potbellied pigs and piglets in the villages too). Looked at the pagoda across the street from the hotel, also a small Catholic church in town. Had a light lunch at Baguette and Chocolate (Sapa's training restaurant). Then we were again collected by our guide and driver. Stopped by another village for a wet, muddy slog. Much wetter today than days before. Then on to Lao Cai for dinner at local restaurant and train back to Hanoi..... Bid goodbye to guide and driver. . .
Good included dinner at the restaurant, pho, spring rolls, ginger chicken, and a beef stir fry. Restaurant fills up with others taking the eve train. Hole waiting for dinner, actually hire one of those guys on the street to clean my hiking shoes. Why not, shoes need it, and I'll never do it. I take them off, he gives me a pair of flip flops to put on and says he'll bring my shoes back. Wait I say where are you going. Naturally my Urban personality suddenly fear shoe theft. So I follow him just a few yards where he finds space on the curb to get out his water bottle, nylon brush, and plastic bowl. He scrubs off the mud and towels them dry. Good as new for $1. He wants desperately to do h's shoes too, but unfortunately they're broken- sole coming off one... Fortunatelyprobably won't be needed again this trip.
We rock and roll back to Hanoi. Have to find own cab back to hotel this time.
Noting one of the recommended companies parked near track, we accept their offer, but then puzzle over $7 charge for short trip to old quarter. When questioned about nonuse of meter, driver seems to say that charge has to do with cab only back entrance and one way drive.... Yada, yada.
Check back into Hanoi Imperial at 5 and sleep comfortably for several more hours. Will probably have an easy day today. Off to Halong Bay tomorrow.
At last we arrive at Tonkin's office and meet the lovely Ms. Huong and fork over our money. She goes over the itinerary with us and gives us our placemat gift. (no better gift for me who loves place mats, you'd think we entertain nonstop from the numbers stockpiled)
after perhaps another 20 minute drive we arrive at our hotel the Imperial Hanoi, sort of on the edge of the OldQuarter. It's a 3 star
Seems a tad dark and dreary to us initially, but it grew on us after awhile. Room is large with good bed and perhaps best shower water pressure yet. We're on 6th floor, highest the elevator goes. A short flight of steps up is the breakfast area, with a view of sorts. So so buffet breakfast is included, eggs any way, pretty good coffee, tasteless fruit, and more traditional Vietnamese items, fried rice, noodle soup, etc.
Walk to a simple, cheap cafe for dinner. Husband nearly clipped by motorcyle at one corner. He blames self for momentary alertness lapse. We manage to do well walking for the next days thereafter. Chat with some young German backpackers at next table.
Spend almost three whole days in Hanoi. Walk almost everywhere. The weather is unseasonably warm, so we're in shirt sleeves the whole time. Great. Spend some nice time by the lake just people watching.
Enjoy the whole "scene" at Uncle Ho's mausoleum - the hordes of international people, the soldiers, the space devoted to one body. . .
Laugh over Lonely Planet's? Info that says mausoleum is closed in November when Ho goes to Russia "for unspecified body work". Take in everything in the area, the palace, Ho's house on stilts.
Sorry we weren't able to connect with Hanoi Kids, as we'd intended, while we were there, but they were all on Tet vacation. Maybe we'll connect with them in HoiAn. Also visited the history museum, the fine arts museum, the prison. H was in the Navy and stationed near Qua Viet in the war. (we'll visit there in a few days). He was skeptical of some of the info at the prison, specifically 22 B52s shot down in 11 days? Ah, but where exactly would we look for the "true" facts?
Took a look at the Thang Long gallery that others here had mentioned. Really nice gallery. What did we buy? 3 fiberglass lacquered bracelets and necklaces on display that they said were made by art students. Great easy gifts, every one different. $3 for the bracelets, $2 for the necklaces. Saw the same kind in stores in Sapa today where they wanted $11 for the bracelets. I felt so smug.
After visiting temple of literature, we walked across the street and had nice lunch at Koto. It's nice to see so many of these training restaurants and we're happy to support them.
While we've been trying and enjoying lots of different Vietnamese food, have to admit that one of our favorite places in Hanoi so far has been Mediterraneo, where we ate twice. It was great change to have an arrugula salad, great thin crust pizza and a good glass of wine. We had a dinner at Green Tangerine too. It was good, but it seemed a tad overwrought to me. Everything seemed to be in pastry.
Pretty place though. Will try to get to Ly club before final night in Hanoi.
Left some laundry with the hotel. Tonkin driver collected us for night train to Sapa. Though we are normally Do it our selfers, we did appreciate having the whole train thing done for us, as it appeared rather chaotic. We had a compartment for two one way, and occupied a four berth one for two of us on way back. We were excited by the novelty of a sleeper train, as we'd never been on one before. Felt like we were in a murder mystery. Drink our free warm beers, read a bit, look out window, crawl under single coverlet. We agree that we were comfortable enough all night, but nevertheless slept little. Just not sound enough sleepers to sleep while rockin and Rollin. Just like on planes, probably just manage to start sleeping upon arrival...
Pull into Lao Cai at 4:30am. We're met by our Tonkin arranged local guide and driver (Sapa partners of Tonkin). Have included breakfast at restaurant near train station. Good enough. Seems like we then drove straight to the Can Cau market, which occurs only on Saturday. Crazy drive. Weather was cool and very foggy. Mountain roads were narrow and windy of course. Driver did a great job negotiating them in our non 4 wheel drive sedan. Wonderful experience at the market. Watched a woman make soy milk, saw some livestock sales, bird song contests. Beautiful handicrafts. Bought a scarf, a small backpack, and another zipped bag, each about $5. We were probably first customers to arrive. The crowds came later. Stopped at and walked through another village and then took a short boat trip down the river. Liked our guide a lot, though he was sometimes difficult to understand. An extremely outgoing guy, he knew everyone and had something to say to everyone in all the villages we visited. We had tea and tasted some corn liquor in houses of several families. They were all gracious and welcoming.
Of course we were trailed through each village by a crowd of women selling crafts. As I had already bought what I wAnted at can cau, I resisted buying anything else, and decided just to enjoy the conversation. And once I did that, I felt less like I was being pestered. It's amazing how far just talking about family can take you. In fact, I was sorry not to have brought some grandchild pics, as some village grandmas enjoyed introducing theirs. . . think they'd have enjoyed that exchange.
Sorry to say that the weather was wretched for our 3 Sapa days. Cold and mist and fog (wore thermals, heavy tshirt, fleece and scarf when trekking, topped that with rain jacket today). Note that all these things plus hats, gloves, and hiking shoes are sold in sapa. And I noticed rubber boots "for rent" today. We mostly loved our Boutique Sapa Hotel, where they have the most beautiful and charming female staff. They all fussed over us. Food in their Bella Vista restaurant was so good that we ate there both nights. They specialize in hot pots, and whT could be better for our Sapa weather. Delicious. Our nice room would have had a spectacular valley view, had we not been totally socked in. Nevertheless, we did get some good views driving and walking from time to time as fog moved around. We knew we might be in for some bad weather this time of year, so we were prepared physically and mentally. . . Weather looks promising this week though for Halong, so we really can't complain.
Had a great foot scrub and manicure yesterday when we returned from trek. H had another massage. Nice little place next door down hill from our hotel. Prices were higher in Sapa, but still very cheap for us.
Wandered around Sapa town this am on our own, through the market there. Loved seeing pigs heads, hooves laid out. (enjoyed seeing the many, many potbellied pigs and piglets in the villages too). Looked at the pagoda across the street from the hotel, also a small Catholic church in town. Had a light lunch at Baguette and Chocolate (Sapa's training restaurant). Then we were again collected by our guide and driver. Stopped by another village for a wet, muddy slog. Much wetter today than days before. Then on to Lao Cai for dinner at local restaurant and train back to Hanoi..... Bid goodbye to guide and driver. . .
Good included dinner at the restaurant, pho, spring rolls, ginger chicken, and a beef stir fry. Restaurant fills up with others taking the eve train. Hole waiting for dinner, actually hire one of those guys on the street to clean my hiking shoes. Why not, shoes need it, and I'll never do it. I take them off, he gives me a pair of flip flops to put on and says he'll bring my shoes back. Wait I say where are you going. Naturally my Urban personality suddenly fear shoe theft. So I follow him just a few yards where he finds space on the curb to get out his water bottle, nylon brush, and plastic bowl. He scrubs off the mud and towels them dry. Good as new for $1. He wants desperately to do h's shoes too, but unfortunately they're broken- sole coming off one... Fortunatelyprobably won't be needed again this trip.
We rock and roll back to Hanoi. Have to find own cab back to hotel this time.
Noting one of the recommended companies parked near track, we accept their offer, but then puzzle over $7 charge for short trip to old quarter. When questioned about nonuse of meter, driver seems to say that charge has to do with cab only back entrance and one way drive.... Yada, yada.
Check back into Hanoi Imperial at 5 and sleep comfortably for several more hours. Will probably have an easy day today. Off to Halong Bay tomorrow.
Feb 19th, 2011, 02:50 AM
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After our return from Sapa we manage to get some real sleep till about 10. No problem sleeping through hotel's included breakfast, as it's just ok. Instead we have in room fruit, and our lifesaver, Starbuck's via instant brought from home.
Decide to visit Army Museum. Set out on foot. Stop at nearby Malraux restaurant and have some fried rice. Though one of our travel books says army museum is a don't miss, it's hard to follow.
Kind of a mishmash of photos and military equipment. Find the "sculpture" of the crashed us plane and other broken pieces compelling though. By the time we emerge from the museum weather has become damp and raw. Relax back at hotel awhile and pack a few things for Halong Bay trip next day. Cap off the day with a great dinner at the Ly club. We did make a reservation earlier in the day, probably a good idea. It's a charming old mansion. Service was great and we both really enjoyed our food, though I've already forgotten what we ate. A really good dinner choice for Hanoi. Think with two drinks each, entrees and starters and tip, bill came to 80 something. Expensive by Hanoi standArds, but not our dc ones, or at least that's how we justify these things. We're pleased to see that next day's weather forecast looks promising for Halong.
Picked up next day at 8:30 by van for drive to HB. We are joined by a nice US couple currently posted in Bangkok, who are vacationing with their kids aged 6 to 14. We're struck by how much they are all still enjoying each others' company. Good chat on the way to the harbor.
Cool our heels at the harbor awaiting arrival of the rest of our junk's
(Dragon Pearl iI) 20 passengers. At last all arrive and we get on board. Sun is just peaking thru clouds. We're an international group of Americans, Germans, Italians, Norwegians, and Brits. Have a short orientation by our very good guide (had a great sense of humor)
No safety info provided though, not that I noticed the lack at the time. Did note two life vests in our very nice bedroom (relatively large and quite spiffy shower for a boat)
Have a great lunch of soup and several seafood courses, most I believe from the Bay. By the time we disembark we will have tasted
Prawns, bay mussels, small scallops, oysters, and another fish. All nicely prepared. A well travelled German couple, contemporaries of ours, became our meal companions. We enjoy exchanging travel stories. After lunch we set off for the afternoon activities. Climb up to the top of one of the karsts and explore a cave (a large lighted one, pretty easy walking). Then we stop at an island with small manmade beach and are offered the opportunity to swim (brr. .. ) or kayak. Swimming has no takers (sun long ago gave it up and has been replaced by clouds again). And at first neither does kayaking. But at last the young Norwegian breaks the ice and expresses interest, and then half the rest of us follow suit. Though it's grey and air is coolish, and, not being the best tandem kayakers, we do get a little wet, it was nice to have yet another perspective on the bay and a little workout. The green, green water and rock formations are just spectacular. Spend more time on upper boat deck watching. Speculate how really fabulous it would all look with sun on it. Envision spending all eve on upper deck to watch stars etc. But we didn't have that weather . . . Sleep well in our cabin till we have to post to 7am breakfast, noodle soup, eggs, bread, and fruit. Then we are off to visit "a floating village.". Was interesting to see the fishing activities and an in session school classroom. We are rowed by twos in small boats to the floating village, each boat paddled by a single standing woman. Our guide provides a lot of info on the bay's resident fishermen. We wonder about those who were "relocated" from their cave homes "to keep them safe from typhhoons". But overall, it seems that there's a symbiotic relationship between tourist boats and residents, and, at least in the area where Indochina Junks company anchored its boats, they seemed to do a decent job of minimizing the impact of so many tourists. I had expected the bay to feel more crowded. But once we sailed off, that did not seem to be so much the case. Our guide told us that this company went to a more remote area for that reason. But I suspect that might be a common story. Despite less than ideal weather, we really enjoyed Seeing Halong. Not to be missed. It wasn't until we returned to Hanoi that we learned of the tragedy that befell another boat same am. ImmediAtely sent emails to all family to let them know we were safe.
After a little relaxing in our new and even better room at Hanoi Imperial (corner 403)- big - two beds, two windows! We set off on foot to Tandoor Restaurant, which had great reviews on tripadvisor.
Had great Indian food, ordered twice as much as necessary of course. Place was hopping. Could feel that we were back in the urban stress zone, one table of 6 very intense Asians discussing business. At another table an Indian man was venting about a work issue to his female Vietnamese colleague. Hanoi has great urban energy! Returned to hotel so h could have meeting re taxi rip off. C
Sleep latish next day and enjoy in room Starbucks. Pack for trip to Hue. Have decent breakfast at cafe across from hotel. More good coffee and people watching. Especially enjoy the groups of men crouched on sidewalk or perched on low plastic stools drin,king
(beer? Tea? Other liquor? Some of each?) and talking. Politics?
Sports? Money? Wish we could eavesdrop . . .
We wonder why our 12:30 transport arranged by Tonkin is late, all the rest of their arrangements have been so flawless. At 12:45 we have hotel reception call Tonkin. Turns out our 2:30 flight has been delayed till 4:30 (is this sounding familiar to anyone?). Tonkin says they left message earlier with hotel, so don't know whT happened there. Hotel offers us our room back for a few hours, but h decides just to do internet in lobby. I hit Hang gai street for a little shopping. A couple of very nice shops there. We were little nervous about this delayed flight having read about bob and others' experience with the flight to Hue. But happily it did go.
Settle into our new digs, the Huang Giang hotel. Wanted Villa Hue, but they turned out to be booked for our4 nights here, so Huong at Tonkin got us this one. It's a larger hotel than we usually go for, but we have a great room on the river. Of course the weather is still. . . Gray
Later have an odd dinner at O'Kia restaurant. Pretty good food
Cooked and delivered by only two young women that we ever see.
A look of terror comes across the face of our wAitress, each time we speak.
Hue seems so quiet and sane after Hanoi. Of course we've moved from a city of 6.5 million to one of 600,000. (a guide told us an interesting Hanoi statistic 6.5 million people, 3.5 million registered motorcycles. Not hard to believe!
Today we enjoyed hotel's expansive buffet breakfast, then walked and spent all day at citadel/palace. Gorgeous! Took zillions of photos. Even did a little impromptu birdwatching along the moat, trees full of night herons, a new kingfisher, a new black/white bird. Finally emerge from citadel at around 3:30. Sun briefly thought About emerging, but decided again not to bother. Improved weather forecasts we've seen are clearly communist propaganda. Because by now it is misting. We learned a word in Panama for this that we now use "bahareque". Panama has similar weather in places in January.
In Mexico they call it "chipi chipi"
Tomorrow we get picked up by Tonkin's guide to go to dmz area.
Decide to visit Army Museum. Set out on foot. Stop at nearby Malraux restaurant and have some fried rice. Though one of our travel books says army museum is a don't miss, it's hard to follow.
Kind of a mishmash of photos and military equipment. Find the "sculpture" of the crashed us plane and other broken pieces compelling though. By the time we emerge from the museum weather has become damp and raw. Relax back at hotel awhile and pack a few things for Halong Bay trip next day. Cap off the day with a great dinner at the Ly club. We did make a reservation earlier in the day, probably a good idea. It's a charming old mansion. Service was great and we both really enjoyed our food, though I've already forgotten what we ate. A really good dinner choice for Hanoi. Think with two drinks each, entrees and starters and tip, bill came to 80 something. Expensive by Hanoi standArds, but not our dc ones, or at least that's how we justify these things. We're pleased to see that next day's weather forecast looks promising for Halong.
Picked up next day at 8:30 by van for drive to HB. We are joined by a nice US couple currently posted in Bangkok, who are vacationing with their kids aged 6 to 14. We're struck by how much they are all still enjoying each others' company. Good chat on the way to the harbor.
Cool our heels at the harbor awaiting arrival of the rest of our junk's
(Dragon Pearl iI) 20 passengers. At last all arrive and we get on board. Sun is just peaking thru clouds. We're an international group of Americans, Germans, Italians, Norwegians, and Brits. Have a short orientation by our very good guide (had a great sense of humor)
No safety info provided though, not that I noticed the lack at the time. Did note two life vests in our very nice bedroom (relatively large and quite spiffy shower for a boat)
Have a great lunch of soup and several seafood courses, most I believe from the Bay. By the time we disembark we will have tasted
Prawns, bay mussels, small scallops, oysters, and another fish. All nicely prepared. A well travelled German couple, contemporaries of ours, became our meal companions. We enjoy exchanging travel stories. After lunch we set off for the afternoon activities. Climb up to the top of one of the karsts and explore a cave (a large lighted one, pretty easy walking). Then we stop at an island with small manmade beach and are offered the opportunity to swim (brr. .. ) or kayak. Swimming has no takers (sun long ago gave it up and has been replaced by clouds again). And at first neither does kayaking. But at last the young Norwegian breaks the ice and expresses interest, and then half the rest of us follow suit. Though it's grey and air is coolish, and, not being the best tandem kayakers, we do get a little wet, it was nice to have yet another perspective on the bay and a little workout. The green, green water and rock formations are just spectacular. Spend more time on upper boat deck watching. Speculate how really fabulous it would all look with sun on it. Envision spending all eve on upper deck to watch stars etc. But we didn't have that weather . . . Sleep well in our cabin till we have to post to 7am breakfast, noodle soup, eggs, bread, and fruit. Then we are off to visit "a floating village.". Was interesting to see the fishing activities and an in session school classroom. We are rowed by twos in small boats to the floating village, each boat paddled by a single standing woman. Our guide provides a lot of info on the bay's resident fishermen. We wonder about those who were "relocated" from their cave homes "to keep them safe from typhhoons". But overall, it seems that there's a symbiotic relationship between tourist boats and residents, and, at least in the area where Indochina Junks company anchored its boats, they seemed to do a decent job of minimizing the impact of so many tourists. I had expected the bay to feel more crowded. But once we sailed off, that did not seem to be so much the case. Our guide told us that this company went to a more remote area for that reason. But I suspect that might be a common story. Despite less than ideal weather, we really enjoyed Seeing Halong. Not to be missed. It wasn't until we returned to Hanoi that we learned of the tragedy that befell another boat same am. ImmediAtely sent emails to all family to let them know we were safe.
After a little relaxing in our new and even better room at Hanoi Imperial (corner 403)- big - two beds, two windows! We set off on foot to Tandoor Restaurant, which had great reviews on tripadvisor.
Had great Indian food, ordered twice as much as necessary of course. Place was hopping. Could feel that we were back in the urban stress zone, one table of 6 very intense Asians discussing business. At another table an Indian man was venting about a work issue to his female Vietnamese colleague. Hanoi has great urban energy! Returned to hotel so h could have meeting re taxi rip off. C
Sleep latish next day and enjoy in room Starbucks. Pack for trip to Hue. Have decent breakfast at cafe across from hotel. More good coffee and people watching. Especially enjoy the groups of men crouched on sidewalk or perched on low plastic stools drin,king
(beer? Tea? Other liquor? Some of each?) and talking. Politics?
Sports? Money? Wish we could eavesdrop . . .
We wonder why our 12:30 transport arranged by Tonkin is late, all the rest of their arrangements have been so flawless. At 12:45 we have hotel reception call Tonkin. Turns out our 2:30 flight has been delayed till 4:30 (is this sounding familiar to anyone?). Tonkin says they left message earlier with hotel, so don't know whT happened there. Hotel offers us our room back for a few hours, but h decides just to do internet in lobby. I hit Hang gai street for a little shopping. A couple of very nice shops there. We were little nervous about this delayed flight having read about bob and others' experience with the flight to Hue. But happily it did go.
Settle into our new digs, the Huang Giang hotel. Wanted Villa Hue, but they turned out to be booked for our4 nights here, so Huong at Tonkin got us this one. It's a larger hotel than we usually go for, but we have a great room on the river. Of course the weather is still. . . Gray
Later have an odd dinner at O'Kia restaurant. Pretty good food
Cooked and delivered by only two young women that we ever see.
A look of terror comes across the face of our wAitress, each time we speak.
Hue seems so quiet and sane after Hanoi. Of course we've moved from a city of 6.5 million to one of 600,000. (a guide told us an interesting Hanoi statistic 6.5 million people, 3.5 million registered motorcycles. Not hard to believe!
Today we enjoyed hotel's expansive buffet breakfast, then walked and spent all day at citadel/palace. Gorgeous! Took zillions of photos. Even did a little impromptu birdwatching along the moat, trees full of night herons, a new kingfisher, a new black/white bird. Finally emerge from citadel at around 3:30. Sun briefly thought About emerging, but decided again not to bother. Improved weather forecasts we've seen are clearly communist propaganda. Because by now it is misting. We learned a word in Panama for this that we now use "bahareque". Panama has similar weather in places in January.
In Mexico they call it "chipi chipi"
Tomorrow we get picked up by Tonkin's guide to go to dmz area.
Feb 19th, 2011, 04:27 AM
#59
Join Date: Aug 2006
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Starbuck's VIA brought from home. What a great travel tip. I am really enjoying reading your report. I leave for Vietnam next week and your report has started my trip early. Vicariously, of course. Thanks for posting.
