That would be near Bromo! Not broom, ha ha

Left Ijen with our same driver from a few days before at 9:30 arrived at Java Banana about 3 or. 4.  The last few kms had us a little worried as we kept going further and further on a road that had obviously just been repaired post eruption.   Very high up!  Beautiful cabbage and onion fields.   But many plants just emerging, or still covered, in ash.    The hotel 
looked very empty.    Because it was almost.  First night it was the two of us And a French couple.  That was it.   We got lots of attention from hotel's "concierge". Purawaddy.   He's very chatty and speaks pretty good English and French.   Java Banana's an interesting place.  Like Ijen,it seems to want to market itself as a conference center of sorts, but it's hard to imagine any local biz or org choosing these places, because of their remoteness.   The first venture was a photo gallery and cafe, but hotel info said that wasn't't sustainable so they decided to add lodging.   Owned by a banker/photographer with several other photographer investors.   All very modern and upscale
Looking with a lot of glass.  Much different than all the other housing and biz
Establishments in bromo.   Perhaps he will turn out to be on the cutting edge of bromo becoming an artsy place or not.  Our expensive superior room was nice enough with a good bed, but barely big enough to turn around in and not much space to put anything.  Hotel, like village, is still cleaning up post eruption.

Next morning Purawaddy took us to the viewpoint for Mt Bromo.   We went some distance on a bumpy road in a Jeep.   Then we did a short steep hike up to the lesser viewpoint.  Could not go fiurther because trees had come down and blocked the path in previous day's hard winds.  But the sky was clear enough that we saw the great panorama of the still smoking  bromo, the sea of sand stretched out before it,and the temple at the foot of the mountain.   It appeared that the longer hike ( currently forbidden) would be spectacular.  Down a path to the sea of sand, across that sea, a visit to the temple,and then up the many stairs to the crater edge.

In the afternoon we walked Round the village.  Looked At some birds and crops. Many passing locals called out to us, as we were clearly an unusual site in the village last week.   

When we realized we had done all that Bromo currently had available, we changed our flight to eArlier from Surabaya to Yogy.  That meant a 4:30 wakeup call for drive to airport. But that all went smoothly and we again reallY enjoyed watching the rural and then city areas wAke up,   Killed airport wait time at Starbucks!! With wifi.   Something to be said for civilization after all.

Fine Lion Air flight to Yogy.  We're loving the lovely old Phoenix Hotel here.
Today we saw the Sultan's palace and also the water palace.   GreAt free traditional dance and Gamelon concert at palace.  Again we were among very few Westerners and hence sought after for interviews by legions of English learners.   But as an esl teacher, I enjoy it.  for Awhile.    Had some good cheP local food at wAter cAstle cafe.  Nice chat with some staff there.   It was hot, hot, hot.  Cabbed back to hotel for swim in their lovely pool.  Later cabbed to a restaurant I'd seen mentioned on chow hound . Pelec Solo.   Large place next to Hyatt regency.  A warung.    Only a handful of other diners.   We were clueless about the menu, small and without any English description at all.   Worked hard with a couple of stAffers to get a general sense of whAt we'd be ordering.   In the end all was very tasty and interesting.  Incredibly cheap and ready in minutes.   Great old wood antique look inside.   Waiter offered us massage, reflexology,and what we thought was "Arab smoke".  A hookah?  We weren't sure, but declined.
2 entrees, an appetizer, and 2 large Bintangs came to $20.  We have to laugh that whenever we order a small bin tang, it turns out they only have large, but when we want a large one, they only have small.
Plan to take cab to Borobudur tomorrow.....














Ie














 



 

We stayed at the Phoenix before it was called the Phoenix. Had a very nice room, but the highlights were two exceptionally good massages in their spa. If you are staying there longer, try one.

I hope you enjoy Borobudur as much as we did. I have to thank Marmot for her suggestion to take the book Golden Tales of the Buddha. I almost didn't buy it, but then changed my mind when I saw it in the airport bookstore. It made the whole trip there better and we learned so much more than if we'd taken a tour. I noticed that most of the tour guides rushed their groups around to just the highlighted areas. We got to spend as much time as we wanted at whichever panel we liked and learned all about the story depicted on the panel. I highly recommend it.

Thanks Susncrg, wished we'd had time for massages at the Phoenix. We did some earlier in the trip in Bali that were wonderful and incredibly cheap. We did lull about at the Phoenix pool late yesterday afternoon, even had dinner at the pool actually. We'd had a long hot great day at Borobudur and Prambanan. We just took a taxi out there and explored on our own. He just waited for us and then took us to P. Hardly anyone at Borobudur either when we arrived at 9:30. I read somewhere that tourism there is down by 70% (due to eruptions at Merapi presumably). We saw serious Merapi damage on the road to Borobudur. They're busy cleaning up. Lots of guys working on the temple too, and the stoupas are still off limits. But nevertheless it turned out to be wonderful time to visit (a Monday). More people at Prambanan in the afternoon - almost all school kids. We were mobbed by them of course. But mostly we enjoyed them. We made them work for their pictures with us old Western people - insisted that we get to take their pictures, that we be allowed to interview them, and then we'd ask them, with a straight face, for 5,000 rupiah. Lots of giggling. We had some pretty good Lonely Planet temple info with us that was helpful. After I saw Marmot's rec of the Golden Tales book we looked for it for the kindle the other day, but it didn't seem to be available on kindle.

We went to a shadow puppet show last night at the Sonoboyondo(?) museum. Not an easy place to find! Had not the usual local immediately befriended us when we stepped out of our taxi (driver pointed in the direction of the entrance), we'd never have found it. Roads round the museum are closed off for market. No lights, no signs,nothing! We watched someone working on making the leather puppets, and watched quite a lot of the show from front and back.

The day before yesterday we spent wandering around the city. And I do mean wandering. Not an easy city for finding one's way or crossing streets. But we got an interesting tour in English at the Sultan's Palace and arrived in time to see three great dances and gamelon for free at the palace pavillion. We got a "tour" of the water palace when we were picked up by a local who naturally turned out to be a batik store tout. He was a nice man though, and gave us lots of info. We also ended up wandering the area along the canal when we took a wrong turn. Though it was quite a poor area, it was also interesting to see.

For dinner that night we took a taxi to a place I'd read about on chowhound.com, next to Hyatt Regency hotel - Pecel Solo. Embarrassed to say that we weren't yet fluent in Indonesian eating - beyond nasi goreng and a few others. Nothing familiar on Pecel's menu, and no explanations we could understand. So we were flying blind. Nevertheless we had some tasty food at incredibly low prices. Two entrees, an appetizer, and two large Bintangs were $20. My appetizer was a kind of rice/spinach green bean combo. And my main was chicken and veggies steamed in banana leaves. Restaurant is a large room - all wood, old pictures, old tools, antique look to it. Open air. Nice atmosphere.

We're now in Kuala Lumpur at the Trader's Hotel for one night one our way to Kinta Kinabalu and then Borneo Rainforest Resort. Trader's is the opposite of the Phoenix Hotel. It's huge, ultra chic, but rather cold. Like a huge corporate office building. But we have a great room on the 11th floor with a great view of Petronas Towers. We went out looking for some laundry soap this afternoon and ended up in the HUGE Siria(?) shopping mall. It dwarfed our DC area megamalls. But we enjoyed just watching the incredible diversity of people. Had minor lunch at Malaysian stall in enormous food court. Am tempted by the pool on the 33rd floor. It's big and nice, but an indoor pool. Very chic bar up there too. Some nice looking and expensive restaurants within the hotel. But I may torture my husband by searching for bizarre and,no doubt, out of the way places noted on chowhound that will require a taxi and effort to locate. But,hey, where's your sense of adventure?

Ooh...I am really looking forward to the next bit of your report as we will be in Borneo in March-April and also staying at Borneo Rainforest Lodge as well as on the Kinabatangan and in Kuching. I will be watching your travel for tips on what to do and see. Thanks in advance!

glover; Was your visit to Yojya worthwhile but depressing because of all the damage Mt. Merapi had wrought on the city and surrounding area? also, At the Java Banana are there larger rooms, maybe $90-$110USD for 2, without having to spring for a suite. On the short walk you did because of the limitations at Bromo was it 100 yards or more and was it steps or rough path that was fairly straight up. I have a bum knee and though I can walk a path walking up inclines of more than 20-30 yards begins to be a issue for me?
We are considering a Sept 2011 trip which prompts the above questions. We are going to a dive resort first in S,E, Sulawisi for 10 days then on to Java, at least that is the plan.

After enjoying a night of luxe at the Traders Hotel in Kuala Lumpur
And schmoozing the Siria megamall under Petronas towers, we were off to the airport again for our flight to Kota Kinabalu.   All went smoothly on our Asia Air flight,  and just like at KL, we were through Kk airport and into a cab in a breeze.   We were headed for the Eden54 Hotel, a basic, inexpensive place with great reviews.   Indeednwe received a warm welcome, ate cheaply and well in hotel's sister restaurant down the street.   It was raining hard and we were looking for something easy.   We each had a bowl of delicious sweet corn and chicken soup and pineapple fried rice.   We left some luggage with them that we wouldn't need in the rainforest, and some laundry that they,ll do cheaply by kilo.    They arranged a 5:30 pickup for us next am for our Mas Wings flight to Lahad Datu.   
Other pluses of hotel:  small flat screen tv, comfortable bed,a d in room wi fi.   

Flight to Lahad Datu also went off without a hitch.  Borneo Rainforest Resort folks picked us up at the airport.  We drove to their office to pay the big bill.   Then we hopped in back  of a 4 wheel drive van for the 2 1/2 hour drive to the lodge in. The Danum Valley.   Our driver was delightful and spotted a bit of wildlife for us son the drive - some pigtail macaque monkeys, a mongoose, a ,monitor lizard, and a new squirrel.    

We were welcomed to the lodge with a cool towel and drink (delicious
Lemongrass and Ginger tea).   Our room is one of their deluxe river view rooms and it's wonderful, spacious,  simple wood fir inure, nice bathroom and beautiful porch with couch, outdoor bathtub,sand great river view.   We immediately see spectacular blue, green, orange long tailed bird sweeping the river.   Identify them as blue throated bee eaters.  Later see a hornbill, and a stork billed kingfisher that looks rather like the proverbial rubber ducky.  And all that was before we met our guide.  Lunch is served buffet style in nice open air space and porch.   A nice mix of veggies, local dishes, fruit.   

Later in the afternoon we meet our guide Wang and go off for a short, walk down the road.   See a few other interesting birds and some red leaf monkeys.   There are rumors of orangutans ahead, but unfortunately they moved on before we arrived.   It is hot, hot, hot.
Nice dinner, some sate, curried pineapple, chicken in spy sauce, salad. Though we really want nothing more than to crash, we decide perfect weather and full moon are too rare to pass up the night ride to spot animals.   So about 10 of us sit on bench ,seats in back of 4 wheel drive cab. Guide sits, on a raised seat above us.  Driver in cab.  Now there arer rumors that Borneo Pygmy elephants have been seen down the road.  This time we do manage to see them, as well as a porcupine (always wanted to see one of those ), and a large reddish flying squirrel - first high in a tree, and then gliding down.  Jungle was beautiful in the full moon and sweet scented.   Then alas sky suddenly opened and we got rained on the whole way back.   Oh no, my " going to dinner" capris and tshirt.   They should dry by next week

Will be up early again tomorrow for another hike with guide.  This time to canopy walk and a trail.   Bought the necessary leech socks tonight and will inaugurate them tomorrow.   Saw our first leech on a railing.  Thought it was a cute inch worm at first,,,

Glover; Would you mind answering my earlier question above about both your mood and that of the local people about the distruction of Mt. Merapi.
Also, the walk up to where you viewed Mt. Bromo (incline, steps) and the opportunity for larger rooms at Java Banana Hotel. This second question will really help us determine whether we go to Bromo at all.

Great report glover! Your iPad typing is improving with every post too! :)

We are planning a similar trip in April - We're going to KL first, and a quick trip to the Cameron Highlands in Malaysia. Then on to Bali (Jimbaran Bay for 5 days, then Ubud for 4 days), and then on to Yogyakarta for 4 more days.

We'll look for some of the restaurants and activities you mention...

We're also hopeful that the people in the Yogya area and Borobudur are recovering from the Merapi disaster...

Thanks again for the great overview!

Just a few notes about day 1 and 2 at Borneo Rainforest lodge.  We are actually here 3 whole days and a half day on either side! As we opted for a four night birding package, which I believe is now gone from the website.   So the good news bad news is that our hikes have been really focused on birds.  Hence the lodge's decision to assign us to guide Weng.  He their best at finding  and identifying birds.
But otherwise he 's not really interested in engaging us in any other way, which is a loss for us all.   And we 're easy!  He'll answer any questions we ask, but we gotta ask.   And it seems he'd rather we didn't ask.   But it's difficult to know, as he's in his own world ( or perhaps just really super focused listening).   We have seen lots of great birds though both days so far.   We hike the road into the lodge, a few trails, across the river, and over the wonderful l canopy walk.  We also went off trail today to chase down an orangutan, which we got a pretty good view of.  He was a young male alone.  We waited and waited while he was high in the trees,and just when we were going to leave, he started moving and was nicely in view for some time.  very fun!  We've had great luck with the weather.  Two sunny clear days yesterday and today.   We return after each am walk soaked in sweat, strip, and throw our clothes in the lovely outdoor tub on our porch.   Porch has great drying racks on two sides.
Food continues to be great, lots of terrific fruit and vegetables.  Familiar and unfamiliar veggies done in nice salads or cooked in stir fries.  

We'll go on  another walk late in afternoon with Weng. Probably a second night spotting this eve.  Last eve we just stayed around and relaxed on our porch.  Saw a mother and baby deer at edge of river at dusk last eve.  

We should both qualify for the lodge's certificate of blood donation, since on our return from the walk today we both had leech experiences.   I'd just cleaned my hiking boots and thought I felt something on my head.   Touched something slimy just behind my ear.  Pulled it off and it was an engorged leech.   Hmmmm. How long had it been there?   Husband took off his shirt and noticed fair amount of blood.  One had gotten him under the arm!   Ewwww!  That was a somewhat more unnerving experience than flicking a few tiny ones off a  sleeve before they attached.   No lasting harm done though of course.

Stankase, sorry I really don't know the answer to your question about Java Banana rooms. I believe what we had some kind of superior room and it cost $100. I don't know if there are larger ones. Maybe the website says. If you read reviews on trip advisor you will see that, like us, most people liked the property but thought it overpriced for the area, quality. But there 's not a lot of choice there.

We weren't depressed by the damage. We thought it interesting to see. Most people we talked to are just busy cleaning it up. They seemed friendly and up beat. I think you take it in stride when you live under the volcano.

We thought it was a beautiful and interesting area. You could get a good easy view of the volcano and sea of sand from behind the Lava View Hotel. ( which someone we met recommended by the way). And also from the departure point for the currently closed hike. The hike to the viewpoint that we did, while not terribly difficult, sounds like it may be more than you want to do.

Glover; Thanks very much. Just one clatification please. Assuming the weather is good to get to the departure point does not take any hiking because you make reference to a short steep climb? If I could not make up the incline would it really be worth going all the way to Bromo? Also, were in Yojyka for 3 days last March and went to Dieng Plateau and the main attractions within about 25 miles of the city i.e. Bobobudur so this time we were thinking of a day in a radius of 30 miles around Solo for a day. Would we find that much different in the little villages, scenery, etc. than Yojyka? Lastly, you chose to go to Surabya vs. Melang. What made you select one over the other since the little I read makes Melang sound quite unusual, but that may just be PR? Thanks again.

Glover, Thanks for sharing your journey with us.
StanKase, Have you tried the Trip advisor? There are destination experts at that forum who are Indonesians living in Indonesia and they know the area well. They are very good in answering all questions promptly. Hope this helps.

Glover, we enjoyed the novel foods at BRL such as the stir fried ferns and local root vegetables.
Did you try the snake fruit?

Yogya and Solo are very similar, both in the towns and the surrounding areas. Yogya as more tourist infrastructure, but the cultures are very similar. The Solo Kraton (palace) is less well known and thus, less visited.

Surabaya and Malang are very different: Surabaya is a big city and Malang a small town. Surabaya is the major commercial destination in East Java, with an active airport and seaport. Malang is not so easy to get to.

I think what draws a lot of people to Malang is the laid back atmosphere and the Tugu Hotel.

Enjoyed another hike yesterday afternoon, though we didn't see too many birds or other wildlife.  After another nice dinner on the porch restaurant, went on a second night spotting ride.  Bonanza this time. We saw 3 species of flying squirrels, a masked civet, a brown wood owl, two samba deer, a pangolin ( scaley anteater) and best of all a leopard cat.  Great views of this beautiful, small cat.  In fact we followed him down the road.   

At dusk before we went to dinner we sat on our wonderful porch and watched the river.   3 or 4 rhinoceros hornbills flew by to nest in a tall tree by the river.   Notice then that same tree was full of monkeys.  Kind of like a monkey highway.   We'veseen several types of monkeys here - long tailed macaques, pigtailed macaques, and red leaf monkeys.   We've heard but not yet seen gibbons.  They sound like car alarms.   

Rained very hard about 5:30 to 6am this morning just as we aware getting up (fortunately they have great strong coffee here at the lodge ).  Then we went out with our guide to what they call the jacuzzi pool, an area with a small waterfall for taking a dip and/or fish therapy for the feet. Little fish nibble your feet for a natural exfoliant.  

About noon now as we we watch gentle rain begin to fall on the river.  

The lodge is very well managed, and all the staff so nice.   Upon returning from any hike we 're met by a nice woman bearing lemongrass scented cool cloths.  Shoes are forbidden in the cabins and lounge, restaurant.  There's an area for rinsing hiking boots and then storing them (along with the ever important leech socks).  

Guests are coming and going as we've been here.  Some groups, a few families, couples, and a few singles.  As was our experience in Indonesia, mostly Australians, Dutch, and other Europeans.  Just a few other Americans.  Last night a small group from the Malaysian tourist board arrived to experience the property.   

Looks like we may be socked in with rain for awhile now, but that's ok from our lovely porch.  If it rains all day we won't care, as we feel lucky to have had 2 great clear hot sunny days and nice nights for spotting.  Rain in the rainforest is fun too!

We leave tomorrow after lunch.   Return to kk for a night and then the following day fly kk to KL and then to phnom penh.   

Rivet, yes we liked snake fruit, and just had jackfruit which was good too. We are loving all the interesting local greens and veggies!
Stankase, perhaps Not worth going all way to Bromo if you'r not up for much walking. Sorry, we only went to Yogy, so know nothing of any surrounding village areas or Solo. Only reason we went to Surabaya as to get to Yogy from Bromo. Didn't spend any time there. Did not consider maleng.

Hi Glover. Not sure when you are arriving at Soupaphone in Vientene but I am here now. The rooms are really lovely but two things you may want to reconfirm. I have a very heavy suitcase as i am travelling alone and my room was on the fourth floor so a lot of lugging up many stairs.
they had rooms on lower floors but they dont have windows.
So, two things you many want to request, a window if that is important, and a lower floor if you have lots or heavy luggage.
Enjoying your report.

glover, if you like jackfruit, there is a curry coconut dish from Central Java called Lodeh, you might be able to find it in Malaysia. The sweet version is called Gudeg.
Don't miss out on the mangosteen, it's supposed to be a super antioxident food. I think the taste is heavenly.

Liv42 day, thanks for the tips re Souphaphone. We'll be be there in a week or two. . We're traveling really light and I've got the Sherpa husband along , so steps should 't be a problem. Glad to here you 're happy there. I' really enjoying your report on Laos.

Meanwhile, on with my report. I' m afraid to jinx our plans by saying this, but we 've had many flights etc so far and everything has gone off without a hitch. Air Asia was great and incredibly cheap. But our next biz will be Lao Ai and Vietnam Air, so we shall see.

We said reluctant goodbye to Borneo Rainforest Lodge. We spent our last morning on our own. Slept a little later, did a little more porch sitting, walked around the property, and took some pictures.

Don't think I mentioned how much I enjoyed the canopy walk there. We did it again on our last afternoon hike. Saw another amazingly beautiful bird up there, a red bearded bee eater. But regardless of what you might see or not up there, it 's just a gorgeous spot.

Left BRL at about. 1. BOunced down to Lahad Datu. 2 1/2 hours later. Cooled heels at that tiny airport for a couple hours till our 5:30 Mas wings flight to Kota Kinabalu. We were warmly welcomed back at Eden 54 Hotel, where our stored luggage and completed laundry $3 for all! Were waiting in our new room. Popped back into their nice little restaurant 3 doors down and had another easy, good, cheap meal. This time shopped at the super yuppie market on other side of Eden. My what a wine department. What a place. What a surprise. Also a nice little deli kind of spot right next door. Procured sliced fresh pineapple, mango juice, a donut, and yoghurt for next day 's breakfast. Sleep like the dead. Next am have in room breakfast (Eden has fridge in hall for guest 's use, also computers in addition to free in room wi fi. Super staff. A small basic place that has thought of everything. Super convenient.

Flew Air Asia Kk to KL and then KL to PhnomPenh. We delight to find Starbucks and wi fi in these airports.

So here we are in Phnom Penh, which we Are really enjoying so far. We had zero expectations. We're staying at the Pavilion Hotel near the Royal Palace. We think of it as a smaller crumbling version of our fac Phoenix back in Yogy. And the crumbling elegance fits for PHnom Penh. It's Also an old manse circa mid 1800s. Rooms arrayed around nice pool. A little oasis in a crazy town.
But PP is quieter than Yogy. Just as gritty. After arrival we just had time to go to dinner. We walked a couple blocks to the Tamarind. Had good unbelievably cheap meal on rooftop there. Today we slept in a little, had nice included breakfast by .the pool (eggs, fruit plate, passion fruit juice,
decent coffee, walnut bread and croissants ). Left some laundry to be done.

Walked down to the riverfront area. It was a bright sunny day. Now is supposedly PP's cool dry season. There was a nice breeze but I wouldn 't call it cool. Enjoyed walking a long the quay, looking at boats, people out. Stopped in at the very nice tourist center and got some glitzy free books in a snazzy bag. Stopped in a little spa place And had a manicure and pedicure for $4! HusbNd went for the hour long full body massage for$12.

Had late lunch at Riverside Cafe, busy corner spot. Had some decent pad Thai, h had a baguette sandwich. We had a nice chat with some fellow DCers. She grew up in PP (lost 17 of 19)family members during Pol Pot years. He grew up in Shanghai. So they were visiting families in Asia.

After lunch we visited the Royal Palace, which is just stunning. They are continuing work cleaning it up. It looks wonderful.

Tomorrow we've hired a taxi driver to take us to the killing fields and we'll visit the genocide museum too. So it will be a somber day.

Closed today with an easy dinner At our hotel by the pool. We split a green papaya salad and both had grilled chicken with mango sauce. 2 drinks each. Total bill: $33.