Reen

Hi,

I am planning a trip to N. Thailand that includes doing the Mae Hong Son loop. We would rather not rent a car and are looking at public transportation options.

Originally, we were going to take the bus from Chiang Mai to Pai to Soppong to Mae Sariang and back to Chiang Mai. But, after reading more about it, I have serious reservations about the bus from Pai to Chiang Mai.

One option is flying to Pai, but I am also thinking that we might want to skip Pai completely and fly directly to Mae Hong Son. I still want to do Soppong so this would require a bus to and then back from Soppong.

Would really appreciate any comments on these two flight options and also on whether we need to stay in Pai especially if we spend some time in Soppong.

Thanks!

JohnH

You can fly to Mae Hong Son from Bangkok or Chiang Mai. One thing to be aware for is that, depending on the time of year, flights in and out of Mae Hong Son are often delayed due to smoke or fog in the valley where the airport is located.

I had a flight last spring that was delayed for several hours, turning a 30-minute flight into a half-day ordeal. The gate agents at the airport were saying that's very common on that particular route.

Also the flights book up quickly, especially in high seasons (summer & December/January).

You could also hire a car/driver in Mae Hong Son instead of relying on public transport.

Haven't ben to Pai so can't comment on that.

crellston

The whole pint of the MHS loop is the secenery which is spectacular. If you fly you will miss the best bits! I am not sue why youa re unhappy with the bus option but it would seem that hiring a car and driver would prove the best option and it probably won't cost anymore than a self drive. I really enjoyed the drive but be warned the whole loop is 600 kms through great mountain scenery the downside is that there are probably 600 hairpin bends as well. I ilke Pai its is a real chill out place - we stayed at the Belle Villa which was great.

Reen

Thank you JohnH and crellston for your helpful comments. I may be overly concerned about the bus. I recently read some real horror stories about extrememly overcrowded buses and breakdowns etc.. But, then I did hear of a new Golden Dragon Bus that goes directly to Pai and is supposed to be quite good.

At any rate, I really did want to do the full loop. So, I have contacted Sergeant Kai to pursue the option of having a driver. This might also give us the option of stopping for a night in the Mae Sa Valley.

crellston

Try and work in a stay at the Fern Resort in Mae Hong Son it is abit outside of the town but muc, much nicer than the hotels in town.

Reen

Crellston, I just booked with Fern Resort. Thanks for confirming my choice! Did you stay in Mae Sariang? Do we need to make a reservation there or just find a place when we arrive? Thanks!

crellston

We did stay in Mai Sariang at the Riverview Resort/Inn (or something like that) There are several hotels with similar names (unsurprisingly right by the river!) Quite nice hotels with good food. We didn't book - just turned up and picked the nicest looking place (one of the benefits of your own transport). A quiet sleepy sort of place - the real Thailand.

You will love the Fern Resort there are some great walks around the resort and you have the added bonus of their "guide dogs" who will take you on gudued walks ( although to be fair we walked far farther tahn we intended as the dogs were enjoing it so much!

I don't know what time of year you are traveling but we were there in December and it did get quite cold at night, even in the room. you may wish to pack a fleece.

Reen

Crellston,

Thanks for the Mae Sariang rseort recommendation. AND, the comment about the temperature. We will be there in early November, so I think it could be cool then, too. I would not have thought to pack for cool nights. Sounds good actually - I think we will welcome the cool after all the heat! It seems that not very many people are familiar with the Mae Hong Son loop. If you have any other reommendations on what to see and do or whatever, I would really appreciate them. Thanks for all your help!

crellston

For me the best part of the MHS loop was the drive itself, the scenery is spectacular particularly the section s from mai sariang to MHS and MHS to Pai. After that you leave the hills behind and drive down on to the plain on the way back to Chiang Mai.
Strongly suggest you buy a good guide book - Rough Guides has a complete section on the MHS loop.

I would suggest that you visit Doi Ithanon national park on you way to mai sariang, there are some beautiful waterfalls to visit and more great scenery. Choose your guide/driver with care and make sure they are prepared to take you a little of the beaten track to visit some of the minority villages, where the people are very shy but very friendly. whilst you can get a few tour groups going to some villages, generally there are lots that are still unspoilt and pretty much untouched by tourism. There are place to go visit the "Long Necked Karen" but this has really devoped in to a human zoo and really is not something I would encourage. If you are into walking/trekking there are some great walks to be had around MHS, it is very hilly but worth the effort. In MHS town there is a Hmong market which is a bit touristy but worth a visit and there are a number of elephant camps around MHS and Pai where you could do some elephant trekking. There are of course the caves at Soppong, but try to avoid weekends if you can as lots of Thais visit at that time.

Moving on to Pai - again more opportunities for walking, elephants and trips on the river. We stayed at Belle Villa on the outskirts and loved it. Great little villas over looking the paddy fields and its own pool which is a big plus. Some find Pai a bit back packerish/touristy, I didn't. It is a great place just to wander around and chill out at a bar or restaurant (v. good food) or to get a massage etc.

Finally, I would suggest that you pick up a copy of Lonely Planet's Thai Phrasebook and learn a few words, making the effort will really impress the Thais. It also has a section at teh back for some of the hilltribe languages. even a couple of words will blow them away!

Have a great time!