Fodor's Travel Talk Forums

Fodor's Travel Talk Forums (https://www.fodors.com/community/)
-   Asia (https://www.fodors.com/community/asia/)
-   -   First time traveler (https://www.fodors.com/community/asia/first-time-traveler-797877/)

dbarks Jul 27th, 2009 02:49 PM

First time traveler
 
OK, I am sure there is a protocol for this, but I had rather ask forgiveness than permission.

I have never done any solo traveling and I am planning on going to Thailand (and maybe a day trip to Cambodia) between November and February for between 14 and 20 days. I have so many questions my head hurts, but let me get the big one out of the way then narrow the requests. (Yes I have been lurking the forms for weeks so hopefully I am not a total nub-let)

1) How tight should my itinerary be?
I know I want to spend some time in BK, I want to spend some time in the interior of the country, I might want to go to Angor, and I want some beach time. I am flexible with what I do so long as nature is involved and as far as the beach goes I want to snorkel and maybe meet people. (not a euphemism, I am just friendly and like people)

My destinations targets are potentially BK, some areas in Kanchanaburi, and Kho Phi Phi or one of the other western islands.

2) What will my premium be if I do not schedule my time like a military march?

I am sure other questions will arise, but for now I just want to get the conversation started. Thanks for any assistance you could provide and I know this is a personal preference question, but I am just looking for food for thought at this point.

Kathie Jul 27th, 2009 03:30 PM

Travel in Asia tends to be slow. Overland travel (especially to Cambodia) is over very bad roads. You'll also want to move more slowly as it is so hot (one of our regulars here refers to the seasons as "hot" and "hell hot") and because you a visiting a totally unfamiliar place and culture. You have to slow down in order to get a sense of the place.

14-20 days is a nice amount of time. You can visit 3 or 4 places and enjoy them. Bangkok and Koh PhiPhi are easy. For PhiPhi you fly to Phuket, then take a boat over to PhiPhi. I'm not sure what your interest in Kanchanaburi is, some people do it as a day trip from Bangkok, others stay overnight one or even two nights.

I don't know what you are thinking in terms of a day trip to Cambodia. Day trip says to me overland travel, and the only place you could do a daytrip to from Bangkok would be Poipet, sometimes described as the armpit of Cambodia. And getting there and back from Bangkok would take up your whole day. So I'm guessing you really mean something else - maybe you would like to visit the temples at Angkor in Siem Reap? It takes a full three days just to see the major temples, so it isn't a daytrip. There are good air connections between Bangkok and Siem Reap, but they are a bit pricey. However, you can get a Bangkok Air Discovery pass which will lower your costs considerably.

If you are considering Angkor, take a look at our photos as a preview: www.marlandc.com

Gpanda Jul 27th, 2009 03:36 PM

All of your ideas can easily be handled with 20 days. For 14 days, you'll have to exclude something.

A day trip to Cambodia is unrealistic. If you go to Angkor Wat, you should spend at least three days to see the major temples.

The beach portion should be determined by what time of year you're going. The rainy season switches sides.

Even with only 14 days, you can visit three different areas. If your budget allows, the flights are easy. A typical two weeks in Thailand is:
5 days in BKK-some at the beginning and some at the end
4-5 days in Northern Thailand
4-5 days beach

If you want to visit Cambodia, you can substitute that for Northern Thailand.

dogster Jul 27th, 2009 04:03 PM

Heya d: I'm sure you'll all the help you need in here. But first help us, eh? How old are you? How well-traveled are you? Are you a self-starter or just a liddle bit shy? Are you a groovy kinda gal/guy or do you like your pleasures in a spa? How much are you expecting to spend, say for a night's accomodation?

Get the idea? You can be any or all of the above and still find a trip to challenge but not terrify.

Just a couple of things: solo travel in these areas will be fun and not scary. If you're young and backpackery you'll find other people to like - if you're old and curmudgeonly like me, you can hire people to like you. lol

I think you've got three weeks holiday - let's think of the 20 day option.

Where are coming from?

Twenty days is a fine length of time to do everything you want. So is fourteeen but twenty is better than fourteen.

More things: Kanchenaburi is not in the north of Thailand.
A day trip to Cambodia - lol lol lol. Perhaps you need to research that fantasy.

And, before everybody else comes in going on, and on and ON about some great guide called Tong in BKK, before they shove Ponheary and Dara down your innocent throat in Siem Reap, before they insert Sgt. Kai between you and the hill-tribes in Chiang Mai let me just say - in words of one syllable - that there are others, by the hundreds. There are tuk-tuk drivers and guides akimbo. It's easy.

The only hard part is finding an honest one.

So, if your idea of Thailand ain't just must-see temples and the same cookie-cutter adventures that ALL of us have the first time we go you have to let us know. I see snorkel, I see 'meet people'.. so I'm going in that direction.

Let me say clearly, in words of one syllable, large chain hotels on the river in BKK are not the ONLY option. There are some delicious, grooovy boutique hotels to try.

All you really have to do is book flights and, if I were you, accomodation. Both easily done over the net. You'll get tons of advice. If you really, really think that the group-think guide is right for you, then you'll have to book 'em. As there's only one of you it'll be more expensive.

Why Kanchenaburi? If you have a specific connection to the Fall of Singapore and are actually interested, then go. Hellfire Pass is VERY moving. Otherwise, you'll find that famous Bridge On the River Kwai rather a let down.

Do you want a tasting menu of Thailand/S.E. Asia? Or an in-depth cultural trip? Or really, just a cool holiday. All are good. Choose any combination.

Now go look at a map of Thailand. The north is up the top. Phi Phi islands are down the bottom. Kanchenaburi is off to the left. You're gonna have to fly in and out of BKK, I think, each time. Maybe there's a way of doing some interesting stuff without you having to back-track.

Have you thought of a circuit BKK - Chiang Mai/Chiang Rai to Houiexay, grab a boat down to Luang Prabang [one night, two days, mucho nature], stay three days L.P.

http://www.asian-oasis.com/Luang.html

fly to Pakse [there's a river cruise there too and mucho nature] either stay there or transfer direct to Siem Reap.

http://www.asian-oasis.com/vat.html

Three nights Siem Reap.

Wildcard accomodation choice: http://www.hotelbeangkor.com/

I'll bet there's a direct flight S.R. to a beach. Swim snorkel... Back to BKK for a last few nights.

dogster Jul 27th, 2009 04:05 PM

lol - we were all typing at the same time.

There are some nifty trip reports in here too, g.

Gpanda Jul 27th, 2009 04:10 PM

Dogster is correct in that there are many ways to see Thailand. Almost all of them are magical. Your budget and demographic info can help us make more suitable recommendations. Thailand has something for everybody.

dogster Jul 27th, 2009 04:25 PM

Dogster is always correct. It is in the nature of the Dog.

g: the suggestions I am making are SPECIFICALLY tailored to your tragic single status. I, too am tragically single. lol. So I know the peculiarity. Touring, sightseeing in BKK, L.P. and S.R. can all be sorted out on the spot. The premium will be that you'll pay more if you do it thru the hotel. But, even pre-booking won't save you money.

Solo travel can be so cool - but it's easy to fall into a heap. So I'm suggesting places where you'll meet people - in that passing, transitory, safe way - as a solo traveler this is your bonus. Couples can not and do not have the same interaction.

If the O.P. is a single man, the reality of S.E. Asia is that everyone assumes you are there for sex. Whether that's spoken or tacitly assumed, you'll have to work with that attitude and deal with it.

offwego and Dogster discussed this very matter in a gay bar in Siem Reap, not that long ago.

simpsonc510 Jul 27th, 2009 04:25 PM

And traveling solo is NOT a problem. I'm making my 4th (?) solo trip to Bangkok next week (60s female). I have many friends in Bangkok. People are easy to meet, really.

I will agree with dogster that there are plenty of other places to stay besides along the river. It all depends on what you think you might like. And I'll be making my 17th trip to Bangkok and have yet to make use of a paid guide! I have, however, met Tong and she is delightful! I'm going to guess though, that she will be booked up quickly during the "winter months" (Nov/Dec/Jan/Feb) as that is the peak season in Thailand.

It would be good to get your hotels and flights booked ahead. When I go during off season, I wait until I'm in the city to book flights to Samui, Chiang Mai, Phuket, etc. Seats and hotels have always been available.

We are all ready to help you with your trip. It will be a memorable one, I hope.

frogoutofwater Jul 27th, 2009 04:52 PM

I travel a lot, and one rule I try to follow most of the time for anything other than long weekends is to spend at least 3 nights in each place. I sometimes make one or two exceptions for arrival or departure nights or for sidetrips to places that can easily be seen in half a day. Also, since you're a first time solo traveller, I also would suggest that you spend 3 nights or so in Bangkok at the start before touring around, instead of connecting in Bangkok en route to another location.

Thailand has some affordable "splurges" in terms of hotels, so if your budget can handle it, affordable hotels with a few splurges here and there. I stayed at the Conrad in Bangkok for a few nights a few years ago and paid for an upgrade to the Executive Floor - at a total cost of about $125 a night (which wouldn't even get me a HoJo in NYC). It was great.

dbarks Jul 27th, 2009 04:58 PM

Wow Dog. Fan...tastic. Let me touch on the surface of your reply and then study the info and get back with more appropriate details.

I am 50 but get mistaken for young 30's, just genetics. My travels are not extensive, but I am comfortable in my own skin and have made friends everywhere from Belize to SW Detroit.

Coming from Washington, DC I am interested in Kanchenaburi because a picture of monks with tigers during a very down time in life (we all get them) got me to thinking about visiting. After reading about all the tiger temple "issues" I wont visit, but the area is close to BKK (is that the right abbreviation?) and I thought it might be worth a try. I am interested in 2 to 3 place to visit. I know I want beach time. I am not scared of night life, but normally use it as a time to people watch. (drunken kids (sorry Young Adults) are like watching bumper cars with hair) I am very much a self started and am a good wanderer also I like the heat and humidity.

Other than beach and BKK, I am open to other options. the beauty Angor interests me, but I can save it for next time. I like the idea of visiting places with wildlife and am not adverse to volunteering and working, but on such a limited time, I feel that would be disingenuous.

Your statement "I see snorkel, I see 'meet people'" is right, but let me add that I am not afriad of an adventure. I have no reason to do this other than I have the time and want to go.

Budget: Maybe $200 to $300 a day but could go higher. The "boutique hotels" sound perfect. As for the rest of your post, I will spend tonight digesting and will come back in the morning with more through thoughts.

Thank you all for your replys. For now, more reading.

dogster Jul 27th, 2009 05:26 PM

'I have no reason to do this other than I have the time and want to go...'

Ah-h-h-h - there's the clue. How perfect.

I know that one day I'll find out whether dbarks is a man or a woman - but there's no rush. I am all sexes to all people, too. Right now I am Angelina Jolie - soon, when I look in the mirror to shave, I'll be Keith Richards after an all-night party. It shouldn't make any difference - but, my word, in Thailand, it does.

See you in the morning. I'm assuming you're in the U.K.?

dogster Jul 27th, 2009 05:28 PM

ooops, Washington.

dbarks Jul 27th, 2009 06:02 PM

I am a guy.

LAleslie Jul 27th, 2009 06:20 PM

Dog, you couldn't tell dbarks is male? I'm disillusioned, having assumed you have extraordinary powers of perception. I do love it that dogster is talking to someone who calls himself dbarks. Ruff!

Kathie Jul 27th, 2009 06:31 PM

You've gotten a great start! Think about it, let us know what kind of food for thought you need next. This was just an "amuse bouche" Next we can head to a real appetizer.

By the way, $200-300 a day means you can live in the lap of luxury in Thailand... a wonderful hotel, spa, fine food, etc.

Many of us here have done solo travel in SE Asia. I find it an easy place to travel solo as the people are so warm and welcoming.

dogster Jul 27th, 2009 07:16 PM

Well, yes LA, I assumed dbarks was a guy - but when I re-read, I realized that there was absolutely nothing that couldn't be said by a gal.

So 10/10 Dogster for non-sexist thinking - After my recent experiences in Kolkata and Mumbai, I've come to the conclusion I'd better not assume anything. But something about dbarks led me to feel a kindred soul about to take his first trip to somewhere we all know he'll really like.

So this post is kinda fun. I gotta say it's heartwarming to see the Fodor's board swing into action. You have at least a dozen EXPERTS in here g, so use 'em.

Whatever happens gbear is probably gonna be going in thru BKK and out thru BKK - I think frog is spot on, three days is good to get your bearings. You don't really have to see every golden temple in BKK at all - matter of fact, you don't need to see any of them.

so first step is to think about hotel[s] for probably three/four days at the beginning and maybe one, two at the end. This'll depend on flight arrival and departure times.

dogster Jul 27th, 2009 07:30 PM

O.K., I'm fifty but I look thirty. I'm either a very lucky man or I'm delusional. lol lol lol. I'm arriving in BKK for the first time.

What kind of experience would I like? Something with 24 hour room service, not too difficult and right in the middle of everything, I think. I'm in BKK, a pulsing, groovy city. It's not all tinkling bells and temples, it's a humongous, cosmopolitan, Bladerunner place. I've suddenly become extremely handsome, I don't know how. A miracle has occurred in the taxi to the hotel.

I think I'd like a view, just to get my bearings. I think I'd like to DIVE IN. I think a gerooovy boutique place might be cool, but a big megapile in a shopping mall might be better to start with. Easier. lol. You'll see why.

Which BKK would dbarks like to dive into?

There are quite a few to choose from.

Gpanda Jul 28th, 2009 01:52 AM

Dbarks-the last post was an advertisement. Ignore it. If you want to look at the variety of hotels in Thailand, go to Sawadee.com. Many on this forum have had good success booking through this site.


BTW, I graduated from Bethesda-Chevy Chase H.S. a long time ago.

dbarks Jul 28th, 2009 02:23 AM

Wow, the replies are loose, fun and the information is great. Dog, as I guy, are I not by nature delusional.

Kathie, I love all kinds of food. I am an adventurous eater and have been a foodie, but do not like to eat to excess. I have a feeling I will like the street food the best.

The kind of BKK I want to dive into. I don't know. I am sure that the shader side of life will be seen but ignored. I am sure that at least one obligatory golden Buddha is in order, but the Blade Runner aspect of the city the sights and sounds and smells of that kind of place is a draw. I think a bar hopping night is in order, and I am sure

Frogoutofwater, 3 nights in BKK sounds right, The question is where next? Even if I decide on more beach (2 days Phuket, 3/4 days Phi Phi) that still leaves me 4+ days for some adventure somewhere. I have no problem climbing in Krabi, or heading to Chaing Mai (the $207 Thai air fly three time in country sounds like a good deal)

Arrival and departure times look pretty good on Korean Air leave DC 11:50 AM arrive 21:50 next day and leave at 00:10 and arrive at 9:50. So the BKK 3 days. Some place else 3 days. Beach the rest of the time with a BKK stop on the way back sounds like about 20 days to me.

So back to my original question: Do I have to follow a schedule or will I pay premium if I do not schedule?

This is going to be epic fun, isn't it?

dogster Jul 28th, 2009 02:54 AM

Absolutely.

Delusion is perfectly normal in men of certain years - particularly in Thailand. You'll see what I mean.

Did you ask a question originally? lol

Well, no, actually you don't have to schedule anything. It's entirely up to you. I like to have it sorted, only 'cos I find it takes up a lotta time trying to do stuff on the road but in Thailand, with a laptop and a credit card, there's no reason, really - I guess. It's really about your abilities to operate in an unfamiliar environment.

I'm not sure whether doing it on the spot or in advance would be more cost-effective. Your budget will get you out of any situation. I think things would be about the same.

Availability will be the issue. So if you want to play it loose, then you have to be flexible. I'd have that first hotel booked - you can always extend. Your three nights in BKK is really only two days.

Kathie Jul 28th, 2009 05:39 AM

Whether to book ahead has a lot to do with exactly when you are going and how choosy you are about where you stay. At higher end places, you'll save a substantial amount by booking ahead in my experience.

Kathie Jul 28th, 2009 05:44 AM

You mentioned Chiang Mai... some people love it, some don't. I'm in the don't category. Consider going farther north to the Golden Triangle area (you fly into Chiang Rai). Check out the Anantara at the Golden Triangle.

If you have any interest at all in Angkor, considering going there before it gets more developed.

simpsonc510 Jul 28th, 2009 06:16 AM

I much prefer the non-scheduled/regulated vacation. But, that said, since you say you will be going sometime in the November to February timeframe, I'd want to book ahead any special hotels you particularly would like to try on this trip. You might also go ahead and book your BKK-Phuket-BKK flights and hotels, as these will fill up due to the peak season on the island.

I love spur of the moment decisions about where to dine... you say you will probably like street food. But be sure to try some of the other little restaurants and pubs along the Sukhumvit sois (streets) as well. I'm always recommending that newbies visit The Pickled Liver (soi 11) for Maeng's garlic shrimp, for example. Making friends is sooooo easy to do at the Pickled Liver. You will feel like family after your first visit. Tell Maeng you are an internet friend of Carol and Brad and you'll be warmly greeted!

I'm sure you will have a great time in Thailand.

Carol

dbarks Jul 28th, 2009 05:02 PM

Thank you folks for all this food. I have been spending all day planning from the front to the back of my trip. Still uncertain about the middle part, but feeling solid on the direction.

I will have more questions in the near future, just need to settle on the time, End of November or First of February. When I decide that, I will be back with more, I am sure.

LAleslie Jul 28th, 2009 06:34 PM

Just one woman's recent 2-day experience, but I thought Phuket sucked (can I say that on Fodor's?). And I like beaches. Wall-to-wall cheesy T-shirt shops, bad Italian restaurants, lots of post-tsunami cheap hotel construction and sunburned Aussie/Kiwi drunken-soccer-hooligan types. Went to three small islands about 30 minutes by boat for 1/2 day of snorkeling: murky water, dead coral. Let others herre suggest a better beach experience. Liked Ko Samui much better.
Dogster, you are a paragon among non-sexists, especially for an Australian. But don't say "gal."

simpsonc510 Jul 28th, 2009 06:49 PM

LA... were you staying on Patong beach? Sounds like it. I avoid that section of beach, much prefering Kata or Kata Noi.

dogster Jul 28th, 2009 07:33 PM

No 'gal'? Is that offensive LA? lol. I can't tell anymore. O.K. I'm under advisement.

BTW, to answer a previous question - no, I'm not a writer, professionally or otherwise. I'm practicing on you guys.

rhkkmk Jul 28th, 2009 08:20 PM

i have a simple restaurant listing for bkk if you are interested, ask me: [email protected] --- no street food

deciding on angkor wat might be a next decision cause you would need to carve out about 3-5 days for that, then you could fill in around the edges...bangkok air is the way to get to siem reap (AW)...

i suggest a minimum of 5 full days, or more, in bkk...there is lots to do, especially if you like to wander... the temps will feel like DC on its worst summer day...

i too am doing that korean air flt from DC---looking forward to it and the layover in seoul---i'm staying at the hyatt that nite...

most of us prefer hotels along the river, but i think you might prefer something in the middle of town....or go first to the river to recoup from the flight and stay at the end along sukhumvit or wireless more in the middle of the "action"... given your $$ you can stay almost anyplace...

there are tons of places to stay at all price ranges...i prefer a place with a pool to recover from bkk heat...its the only thing that really cools my whole body....

some of the big places you might look at are: on the river--
royal orchid sheraton, shangri-la, hilton, marriott resort and spa, oriental, peninsula
in town places: four seasons, intercontinental, jw marriott, sheraton grande, plaza anthenee, westin, anyon tree, metropolitan...

smaller places: davis, eugenia, old bangkok inn, and thousands more....

this will get you started...

Nywoman Jul 29th, 2009 04:19 AM

Dbarks,

Good genes, I'll say!!! I am in my 60's and act as if I was in my 30's but no one would mistake me for that age.

I travel by myself, last year did Korea, China, Vietnam and Cambodia. This year am planning, Singapore, Laos, Burma and Thailand. My itinerary is more or less set in terms of how long in each country, with the flights or transportation fixed. The interior travel time is a bit more flexible. I do try to read and plan beforehand but somehow, plans change on the fly. To me the greatest asset you can have is flexibility,stuff happens when you travel, unpredictable things that you have no control over. Just go with the flow.

By choice more than necessity I stay in less luxurious hotels. Often they are owner operated, this way I meet people of all kinds and end up having really interesting experiences. It is not that I am fearless, rather unafraid I'd say.

On those occasions where the upscale hotels have been the accomodation, the majority of guests are businessmen and/or couples who are enough unto themselves. For me totally uninteresting but comfortable stays.

As my trip reports show I eat street food and in restaurants,
have actually been accused of traveling just to eat. Not an inaccurate description, after all that is how I live.

Good advice, do less places and stay longer in each. Last year I didn't get to the beaches I had planned on, this year I WILL get my snorkeling time in Thailand, don't know where yet.

Have fun planning, and keep in mind that on the road, the best online trip companion is Dogster.

Kathie Jul 29th, 2009 05:42 AM

LA, Phuket is a huge island and so has beaches of every sort - busy, honky-tonk, sleazy types like Patong and quiet isolated beaches as well. Would you please say which beach you were at? And what month were you there? Spring/summer waters are murky, having been stirred by the monsoon. Specific info on where/when you were at Phuket will be helpful to dbarks. Saying "Phuket sucks" has its charm, but is not as useful as specific info.

PS your description of your Phuket experience would also apply to Kuta in Bali... it seems there must be one beach area like that at each location.

simpsonc510 Jul 29th, 2009 06:03 AM

nywoman, we think alike! I don't act (or look) my age either! I often travel solo, to Bangkok. I, too, stay in "simpler" places rather than the mega hotels. I prefer being close to the shopping along Sukhumvit. I've stayed along the river 3 times (once at the Oriental, twice at the Penn) so I know what many on this board find charming about being on the river. It's just not my cup of tea! Too far from all of my favorite haunts!! Too far for me to haul my shopping bags!!

My trip reports are always "live" from Bangkok. I report on my shopping adventures and chats/dinners with my friends who live there. I typically stay in Bangkok for a couple of weeks at a time, maybe jetting off to Phuket or Samui or Chiang Mai for a couple of days somewhere in the middle of my stay. Being flexible is, indeed, a necessity when you travel!

Carol

dbarks Jul 29th, 2009 02:52 PM

I have posted my next set of questions in http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...-questions.cfm

It looks like November is the time.

And who is this Tong?

LAleslie Jul 29th, 2009 04:03 PM

Carol/Kathie,
I was at Patong, yes, but also hit Kata and Kata Noi, also package tour, touristy beaches. Drove all around the island; not my cup of chai. We were there in late April, so no monsoon murkiness. Hell hot weather may have attracted excursion-fare types in low season. I'm trying to remember the off-shore islands we went to for a half-day snorkel trip. Think one of them was Kata Noi (45 minutes out), plus two nearby. The coral was dead dead dead. Beer cans and snorkel equipment littering the bottom. I'm assuming the more outlying isles are better. Sorry about the "sucks" comment. Right, not helpful. Just trying to warn dbarks away from such places in hopes someone can steer him to more idyllic sands.

Dogster, gal raises the hairs on the back of my neck, but I know lotsa "gals" who don't mind it. If you're not a pro, you're a natural. Very rare. I used to edit all types of "writers." I know the difference.

simpsonc510 Jul 29th, 2009 07:04 PM

dbarks
Tong is a terrific tour guide in Bangkok. Very sweet. Very warm and friendly and helpful... but also very BOOKED UP because she does such a great job showing people around her city and surrounds.

rhkkmk Jul 29th, 2009 07:28 PM

many of us have used tong as a guide and hardly anyone has had a negetive thing to say about her....most of us consider her to be a friend...


www.tourwithtong.com

rhkkmk Jul 29th, 2009 07:28 PM

she is very hard to get....we have her only for 1/2 day and we asked a couple of months ago....and that is in november too...she is giving up her day off

khunwilko Aug 12th, 2009 07:36 PM

You might find this check-list useful.....

http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...g-thailand.cfm


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 10:00 AM.