Good point kja , something to think about. Did you use luggage transfer to Miyajima or instead store your bag in a locker while you spent time in Hiroshima? Maybe you already answered that question in your TR, I will go back and check.

I used both luggage forwarding and locker storage -- luggage forwarding so that I was carrying only one small bag, and a locker for that bag so that I didn't have to carry it around Hiroshima.

No trip report -- I went to Japan before I'd even heard of Fodor's forums. :)

Asakusa Tobu Hotel is a good hotel. It's located near to Asakusa Station, and the neighborhood is just perfect.

Hello again! Here is the latest version of our itinerary. I know this post is very long.
Little did I know that it would be so hard to decide where to go with the many interesting options and that we would easily have been happy to stay longer. But 3 weeks isn't bad, and we can always return. Thanks again to mrwunrfl progol tripplanner001 PJTravels kja and others who I may have missed. I have saved and read trip reports over many times. What a great help it is.

We are very excited about our trip and can't wait to go. I am learning some very basic Japanese from this fellow
Depart Vancouver on ANA Sat, Nov 1 - Return ANA Sun Nov 23

Arrive Tokyo Haneda 6:45pm Tokyo +1
Sunday, Nov 2
TOKYO, Asakusa Tobu Hotel,
Nov 3 Culture Day National holiday, Asakusa historical parade -see White Heron Dance if possible
* See Senso-ji temple really early or at night, look for sign in kanji for goshuin 御朱印, get a goshuin-cho book for goshuin stamps from temples & shrines we visit.
* TeamLab Planets @8:30 am
* Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building Towers for projection show
* Meiji temple
* Horin-ji temple
* Arrange luggage forwarding to Matsumoto
* Figure out how to navigate Shinjuku station, buy ticket for next day train to Matsumoto, then Horin-ji temple

Wednesday, Nov 5
Transfer to Matsumoto: JR "Azusa" limited express trains (Chuo Main Line) from Shinjuku
MATSUMOTO, Matsumoto Marunouchi Hotel
* Matsumoto Castle, walk to see in the evening, visit at opening (8:30am)
* Dogo Onsen, open in the evening
* Arrange luggage forwarding to Yarimikan
* Nakasendo Trail Day Hike: Magome to Tsumago on Nov 6th or 7th depending on weather

Saturday, Nov 8
Transfer to Yarimikan Onsen
Nohi Bus from Matsumoto to Hirayu Onsen (1hr),then bus to Shinhotaka Yarimikan bus stop, walk from there (double check this)
YARIMIKAN ONSEN
* Onsen experience, Kaiseki dinners
* Bus to Kamikochi (Sunday)
* Shinhotaka Ropeway for views (Sunday)

Monday, Nov 10
Transfer to Takayama by Nohi Bus
TAKAYAMA, eph Takayama Boutique Hotel
* Higashiyama walking course
* visit Hida no Sato as a substitute for Shirakawago
* Hida bike tour - weather dependant
* Forward luggage to Hotel Mume

Wednesday, Nov 12
JR Express Hida wide view to Nagoya- Shinkansen to Kyoto
Option: train to Gero, walk to onsen area to spend a few hours before continuing to Nagoya and taking shinkansen to Kyoto

KYOTO, Hotel Mume, pending confirmation, they have our request, made in Feb, and follow up in June and will contact us when they open for bookings (fingers double crossed about this)
Backup confirmed: Cross Hotel Kyoto
I have done a lot of research on sites in Kyoto and am focused on finding enjoyment despite the expected crowds and have grouped together places we would like to visit. Thanks progol and tripplanner001 among others! We will not hesitate to use taxis or give up some of the most heavily touristed sites. Some things I will ask for help booking when we get our confirmation from Mume as they seem to be really helpful. So not listing those plans here as my notes are too long!
* Forward luggage to Hiroshima

Monday, Nov 17
Shinkasen to Hiroshima
Could stop enroute at Himeji Castle - find out how to do that, on separate tickets?
HIROSHIMA, Hotel Granvia Hiroshima
* Tour Peace Memorial Park & museum morning of 18th or 19th
* Shukkei-en garden for the scenery and the foliage
* Hiroshima food guide (Japan guide)
* Forward luggage onward to Kurashiki

Wednesday, Nov 19
Ferry to Miyajima, pick up at pier by Auberge-Watanabe
Might be very crowded in Miyajima, don’t rush over, depending on weather and how we are liking Hiroshima
MIYAJIMA, Auberge Watanabe, Momiji room (only 1 night available)
* Ryokan experience
* See Tori after crowds gone in evening and morning
* Mount Misen and other hiking trails

Thursday, Nov 20
Shinkansen from Hiroshima to Fukuyama (30 minutes) transfer by bus to Tomonoura, ferry to Seisui-jima, a five-minute ride.(got this idea from tripplanner001 ) Continue to Kurashiki for 1 night.
Or stay longer in Mijima and go straight to Kurashiki.
KURASHIKI, Royal Art Hotel
* Explore Bikan area of Kurashiki, canals & shops in the morning
* Art Museum (Picasso, Monet…)
* Shopping, look for unusual souvenirs

Friday, Nov 21
KAWASAKI, Hotel Metropolitan Kawasaki with late checkout at 6pm on departure day Nov 23rd (National Holiday- Labour Thanksgiving)
* Yokohama, Kamakura, Enoshima (Mt. Fuji may be visible)
* Do gift and any other shopping in Kawasaki or in Tokyo (car free Sunday in Ginza)

Sunday, Nov 23
Depart HND Nov. 23 at 9:55pm

Still to do:
* Decide if booking late afternoon flight or Shinkansen to Tokyo from Okayama on Nov 21st. Flight time is shorter but you’re supposed to check in 2 hrs prior to departure so maybe not faster after all
* Buy JR Kansai Hiroshima 5 day pass, compare first with fare calculator
* Book tickets on train from Takayama to Kyoto 1 month in advance
* Kyoto: Book Kokedera Moss Temple or ask Hotel Mume to reserve for us
* Kyoto: Hakuryuen Garden - special fall viewing ticket, when available to buy?
* Kyoto: Enko-ji Temple reservations needed
* Book Bus reservation on Nohi bus from Matsumoto to Hirayu Onsen and onward to Takayama
* Book Teamlabs Planets when tickets available

Our last 2 nights are booked in Kawasaki, right at the station which has reasonable access to Haneda, Yokohama and Tokyo. Plus the rate is much better than a comparable hotel in either of those cities, and late check-out is available so we can rest a bit before heading to Haneda.

Still unsure whether to go shinkansen or fly from Okayama to Tokyo.
Still anxious about going in to Shinjuku and being lost forever.
Thanks for reading this far, comments and suggestions are appreciated.

Sounds nice!
While on Miyajima, I hope you have time for Daisho-in.
The art museum in Kurashiki is small, but has some lovely work.
Personally, I'd opt for the greener choice of shinkansen rather than airplane.
Enjoy!

>> * Dogo Onsen, open in the evening
Dogo Onsen is in Matsuyama, near Hiroshima

Yarimikan - find out about the shuttle service

On the 8th consider stopping at Kamikochi on the way (send luggage to Yarimikan in advance and on then 8th send other luggage to Takayama to travel hands-free)
On the 9th you could consider going to the ropeway first and walking/hiking down to Kamikochi, then bus back.

>> See Tori after crowds gone in evening and morning
19th, that will work for high tide in the evening
20th, low tide in early afternoon, maybe low enough to walk to the torii
Miyajima Tide Times 2025 | Get Hiroshima

@mrwunrfl you are so right, I somehow mixed up my yamas with my motos. Thank you!

>> Decide if booking late afternoon flight or Shinkansen to Tokyo from Okayama on Nov 21st. Flight time is shorter but you’re supposed to check in 2 hrs prior to departure so maybe not faster after all

I would take the Nozomi shinkansen to Shinagawa and then Tokaido Line to Kawasaki. Virtually zero chance of a weather delay.

If you want to fly then you would check in online. Carry-on only. Digital boarding pass or get bp at a kiosk. Could arrive at the airport an hour or less before departure. At Haneda, you would transfer and wait for the Keikyu train. The trip from T1 to Kawasaki could be as short as 24 min including the transfer at Kamata, Or maybe 47 min or over an hour with a transfer (maybe at Shinagawa).

Leaving Takayama:
There is a daily Hida Limited Express (Hida No.36 (For Osaka)) that goes from Takayama to Kyoto, departure around 3:30 PM
Takayama to Gero would be 46 min on a L'ex for 2080 or 68 min on a local train for 900
Where would you go for a soak in Gero Onsen?
That Hida No.36 (For Osaka) departs Gero around 4:15 PM

Hida #36 arrives Kyoto around 7:15 PM. Taking that means no change of trains.

Sounds great, francebound (where my husband and I will be this fall!)!

As mrwunrfl suggests, ask about the shuttle to Yarimikan once you get off the bus. But it is walkable. I think it was about a 5 minute walk but up a small steepish hill (of course, my memory may be way off) and it was raining at the time so I was less than happy at the experience and wish that I had asked about a ride. But it really was close.

The Shinhotaka ropeway is very near Yarimikan and the
ryokan did offer a ride there. I don’t know what the hike down to Kamikochi from there is like - unfortunately for our visit, the ropeway was undergoing maintenance and was closed for the section going to the top. But my impression is, while doable, it’s a serious hike. We didn’t visit Kamikochi since it is on the other side of the mountain from Yarimikan so one would need to backtrack via the Hirayu Onsen stop to get the bus and we didn’t want to push it.

I’ve been very lowkeyed on the boards these days so apologize if I missed any other questions.

* Meiji temple

Meiji Jingu is a shrine (Shinto) not a temple (Buddhist). Precinct map｜Meiji Jingu
You do want to visit the Inner Garden. It is on the left side of the path when coming from Harajuku (bottom right on the map)

On the 15th you definitely want to visit a shrine for Shich-Go-San. (or weekend before/after). (Maybe Meiji on 22nd)
(that little girl in my profile pic was my first ever photo in Japan, age san then, 27 now)

The hike is not all downhill as I thought:
Shinhotaka Ropeway (Shin-Hotaka Ropeway) - Okuhida Travel
The trail first ascends for about 90 minutes to the Nishiho mountain hut, from where it is possible to descend into Kamikochi (about 2.5 hours)

Lots of great, and more experienced, input than I can offer. I was glad to see that you no longer have an onsen (Yarimikan) and a ryokan (Takayama) back-to-back as that could be one too many kaiseki dinners in a row. The JR train to/from Hiroshima station and Miyajimaguchi station, where you catch the ferry to Miyajima, was not operating when we were there last fall due to heavy rains. We were advised to take the tram. I highly recommend you not do this as the tram was exceedingly slow. Look into taking the ferry from Peace Park in Hiroshima if you are faced with the same issue. We definitely needed timed tickets for the Peace Museum. Takayama was among my favorite stays during our first trip to Japan, and it was an easy bus ride to Hida no Sato. Be sure to save time in Kyoto and Tokyo to just wander. Wishing you wonderful autumn foilage!

We will definitely have time for Daisho-in. The Auberge Watanabe is located right in front of its gate.

The shinkansen option seems to way to go both because it is the greener option and, as mrwunrfl points out, not liable to be affected by weather delays. I hadn't even thought of that!

:tu:

I think it was just some wishful thinking to try and fit in Gero, sometimes I tend towards overcomplicating things. The Hida No.36 (for Osaka) afternoon departure direct Takayama to Kyoto is much the better plan especially as it avoids the need to change trains. Looks like bookings can be made 1 month in advance.

Thanks as well for the suggestion to go to Kamikochi on the way to Yarimikan. I will look into that option.

Good tip PJTravels. JR West is not having issues on that part of Sanyo Line today. The boat from the PP would be good if leaving from the city/downtown.

Another option to/from Miyajima is by boat from Hiroshima Port (Ujina). This would be pretty convenient when departing from the Granvia Hotel which is on shinkansen side of Hiroshima Station. The port is a short rail (JR or tram, IDR) trip from the station. Might be even better (scenic) being on that boat instead of going to Miyajimaguchi.
Hiroshima to Miyajima: How to get to and around Miyajima - Access, Transport and Orientation

Hiroshima — Miyajima Schedule/Price List | High-speed Ship Cruise Routes | Setonaikaikisen

Thanks, it's good to know there is a shuttle available, especially if it's raining.

mrwunrfl 's idea of going to Kamikochi before Yarimikan is a good one, so we'll try to do that, a visit and walk. Once we are at Yarimikan we may just want to stay put and just do the ropeway.

Have a wonderful time in France, wherever your adventures take you. I've never changed my username since way back when. We were in Paris last fall, although just for a few days as a stopover. I hear the croissants are pretty good in Japan! mmm.

I really hope w don't have to deal with heavy rains like you did! We decided to stay at the Granvia for convenience to transportation but it's not the usual type of place we choose, so I will report back how it is when I do my TR.

Looking forward to Takayama, we may take a bike tour to Hida but will decide based on the weather forecast. Could be warm, could by cold, could even be snowy!

I am hoping for nice foliage along the way for sure, yellow leafed ginko trees against a blue sky, red leafed maple trees against a stormy gray sky, all of that. We'll see we get, we won't be too disappointed if we're too early or too late, my husband may be happy if I'm not stopping every 5 minutes to take photos!

>> yellow leafed ginko trees

Made me think of Showa Memorial Park (Showa Kinen Koen) - Tokyo Travel

(did ht once mention the ginkos turning in Dec?)

Showa Memorial Park is also a popular destination for autumn color viewing. The leaves in the park usually change color already around mid November, typically a couple of weeks earlier than the trees in central Tokyo. The park's premier places for autumn colors are the Japanese Garden with its many maple trees, the ginkgo tree-lined canal near the Tachikawa Entrance and a ginkgo tree-covered street in the southwest of the park.

HI FranceBound, I am off to Japan for the first time mid October.
I will also be staying at the Asakusa Tobu Hotel, and Hotel Mume. I emailed Hotel Mume back in Feb, and patiently waited. They sent me an email and all is now confirmed. Yay.
thanks for posting the youtube. I need to learn some basic Japanese words.