Evocative article on Hue
 

The September National Geographic Traveler has a beautiful article on Hue - definitely read it if you're headed to Vietnam. Also sounds like the sooner you go to Hue the better - multistory luxury hotels are are going up.

I suppose that kind of "improvement" was in the cards. However, we sure enjoyed our stay at The Morin Hotel, overlooking the Perfume River, the main bridge, and one of the busiest and craziest intersections of the city. The Morin is like something out of an old, old Humphrey Bogart film -- potted palms, singing birds in the courtyard, and you would swear that Sydney Greenstreet and/or Peter Lorre were hiding somewhere just off the marble lobby. It's a slice of oldtime French colonial architecture and the food was marvelous.

The author mentioned the Morin - he had stayed there 10 years ago. This trip he was staying with his wife's relatives. He did mention that the facade of the Morin had been "improved" since he stayed there. I stayed north of the Citadel, and thought the whole place incredibly atmospheric - of course, I mostly saw it through mist.

We stayed at The Morin about five years ago, so maybe the "improvement" had not taken place. Around the corner is a shop filled with Vietnamese art, including bronzes. We bought a statuette of a temple dancer that rests now on a spot in our living room, always reminding us of Hue. One of the best things we did was hire two pedicab fellows who took us all over town -- the main market, the Citadel, tiny restaurant where a deaf mute gave us a woodcarving he had made. He was so proud that two old Americans would eat in his tiny place. English? Maybe a word or two. Lots of smiles, friendly handshakes, grinning, and gestures sufficed. Priceless.

Going to Hue in January, 2008. Looking for an English speaking guide. Hotel has been no help. Does anyone know a good giude in Hue?

North of the Citadel, Thursday?

I've been educating myself on possibilities for accommo in Hue. I'll arrive (if all goes according to the current plan) early in the morning and wasn't planning to book somewhere in advance. Thought I'd just go and look. But am drawn to the citadel area.

So where was it you stayed? If you have the time to reply, please give an indication of price - and (the most important thing for me, and I suspect this will be hard to come by in Vietnam at the lower end of the scale) was there any kind of open space. Like a garden or courtyard, or rooms with a balcony?

Thanks.

chimani - I stayed here: www.hotelvietnamonline.com/hue/thanhnoi/ - recommended by the Win hotel in Hanoi. I was probably in a Junior single but might have been a Senior - the room was a fair size. Turned out this was also where the Intrepid groups stayed. The web site shows a pool, but the weather was such that I didn't even look for it! Trip report at www.wilhelmswords.com/asia2002 - Down the Spine.

I don't know of a specific English speaking guide but suggest that you inquire at the Mandarin Cafe (around the corner from the Morin where we stayed). They arranged a couple of tours for us and the guide to the DMZ was pretty good.

Guide in Hue. I've arranged with Stop and Go Cafe to meet us at our hotel (Orchid) when we arrive for a day tour. The hotel has arranged this for us. It's $9.00 pp and my hotel says I only need one day. Will get back to post when I return. Alana

Hi Thursday,

I realise I haven't thanked you for your response. So ... taa!

And I went off to check your trip report, which I enjoyed very much. Beautifully written and very informative. Seems like we travel in much the same way. But it leads me to ask loads of questions.

The Thanh Noi is a place I've come across on my trawls, and I thought it might suit. You say it is quite a hike into the city. Did you find that a hassle? Did you wish you had stayed somewhere less isolated? Would you stay there again given the opportunity?

And re your trip to My Son. You said when your car and driver dropped you off, you got a ticket and then walked to where a jeep "was waiting" to take you the last 3 kms.

It's that "was waiting"- was it waiting just for you, arranged along with the car and driver, or are those jeeps always there?

Thanks again.
Where are you off to next?

Hi chimani,

I'm finally traveling again after lots of sick time... Currently in Budapest, headed for Vienna tomorrow. Quick answers - I think I'd probably stay somewhere more central if I was going to Hue again, but otherwise the hotel was fine. The onward transport at My Son was for whoever showed up, I didn't have to arrange it. BUT, when I went back in 2004, they were busy upgrading the entrance, so I have no idea what it's like now - likely nuch posher!. Still, you should only need to arrange your transport to the site - def. try to take your own car and driver before or after the tour groups - it was very cheap. Glad you enjoyed the reports - thanks!!

I read in LP about a tour that gives you a tour of Hue on bike. I think either regular bike and/or motorbike. I'm not looking at the guide right now so I cant recall exactly (I'm up for either option). I'm only paying $7 for the day tour.

Anyhow, here is their email to inquire/reserve:

[email protected]