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Enchanting Cambodia - So much more than just its temples

Enchanting Cambodia - So much more than just its temples

Old Nov 9th, 2009, 05:27 PM
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Enchanting Cambodia - So much more than just its temples

Hello fellow travelers,

My husband and I just got back from a 2 week trip to Cambodia and Singapore. We are a couple in our 30s from New York. We spent 9 days in Cambodia and ended our trip with family in Singapore.

We fell in love with Cambodia and its people and hope that our trip report encourages other travelers to travel outside of Siem Reap and see more of what this country has to offer. Cambodia is more than just its temples. It is moving, enchanting and you will leave with memories of places and people who will always be in your heart.

Our itinerary was as follows:
Day 0 – Fly from JFK to REP on Korean Air. Reach Siem Reap late at night
Day 1 – Temples
Day 2 – Temples and a trip out on the Tonle Sap Lake to Kompong Phhluk
Day 3 – Temples (go further out to Banteay Srei), spend the evening in Siem Reap
Day 4 – Morning in Siem Reap, taxi to Battambang in the afternoon
Day 5 – Battambang, explore the countryside, bamboo train
Day 6 – Battambang, cooking class and another trip out to the countryside
Day 7 – Morning bus to Kampong Chhnang, explore the floating villages and Ondong Rossey
Day 8 – Morning bus to Phnom Penh
Day 9 – Phnom Penh
Day 10 – Fly to Singapore on Silk Air

In Siem Reap, we stayed at the Bopha Angkor. Lovely hotel, great breakfasts. We stayed by the pool side, but the pool was closed. We got an internet special rate of $55 pn with the 4th night free, so worked out to about $40 pn.
In Battambang, we stayed at the Star hotel in a suite for $25 pn. Clean, comfortable and great staff.
In Kampong Chhnang, we stayed at the Sokha Guest House for $8 pn. This was a basic room with a fan but no AC. It was very pleasant with the rains, so didn’t need an AC.
In Phnom Penh, we stayed at the Manor House for $48 pn. Lovely hotel, quiet location, nice pool.
All reservations were done via email except for the Sokha guest house, which we booked by calling them from Siem Reap.

Had we more time, we would have loved to add Kampot and Kep to our itinerary.

Two weeks before our trip, typhoon Ketsana struck Cambodia. Even though its impact on Cambodia was negligible compared to the Philippines and Vietnam, it did take a heavy toll in some areas. For several days, parts of Siem Reap were flooded in knee deep water, including our hotel, Bopha Angkor. We were a little concerned about access to our hotel and temples. But, by the time we got there, the only evidence of the flooding was a closed swimming pool and damaged roads. Of course, outside of town and in Kampong Thom province, the damage was severe with houses and crops destroyed.

While we were there, we mostly had blue skies with hot humid days and pleasant evenings. It rained on a few occasions, but it was usually in short very heavy spurts. It never rained for more than 2 hours at a stretch.

Our trip report is actually a photo report – here’s the URL.
http://culturesconnected.smugmug.com/Travel/Cambodia

There are many galleries – one for each day of the trip. We have only completed Days 1 through 4 so far. We are working on the rest of the report and will post an update as other sections are completed. We have tried our best to filter the enormous number of pictures that we took, but there are still many pictures posted. Please feel free to browse or skip as you please. We hope you enjoy!

If you have any questions, let me know, and I’ll do my best to respond. Thanks to everyone on this board who shared their stories of Cambodia that helped us plan our trip.

- Seema
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Old Nov 9th, 2009, 07:18 PM
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So glad that you saw more than just the temples. It is a festinating country with such friendly people that have enjoined so much. Hopefully you may come back and see those places that you missed in the south and northern regions. Thanks for the report
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Old Nov 10th, 2009, 08:23 AM
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I am thoroughly enjoying your trip report. Great detail and beautiful pictures. Can't wait to read more - thanks for sharing.
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Old Nov 11th, 2009, 04:26 AM
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Thanks Scotters and absolutkz. I'm glad there is someone following along.

Day 1 in Battambang is now complete and available at the same URL
http://culturesconnected.smugmug.com/Travel/Cambodia

We hope to get the rest of our Battambang stay done this week.
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Old Nov 11th, 2009, 06:40 AM
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A fabulous report! I appreciate the detail: fine writing. And the pictures are a huge addition. The integration of the two work so well. One of the very best trip reports I've read! I'm looking forward to the next installment.
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Old Nov 11th, 2009, 03:23 PM
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I'm also enjoying your report. I feel the same way about Cambodia. Unfortunately a lot of tourists fly in to Siem Reap, see the main temples and fly out again. They don't know what they are missing! Looking forward to more.
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Old Nov 12th, 2009, 05:24 AM
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Thanks so much for the positive comments WhitePelican and silverwool. We really appreciate it.

WhitePelican - I saw your Burma pictures, they were absolutely amazing, especially the portraits of people. Those pictures do tell a story.

Are any of you headed back to Cambodia in the near future?
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Old Nov 12th, 2009, 04:31 PM
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Our daughter lives in Siem Reap so both my wife and I make annual visits. Usually in July. We are farmers so have to travel separately. Mary did Vietnam and Cambodia this year while I did Sabah, Sarawak and Cambodia.

I went from Phnom Penh to Battambang by local bus and then by boat to Seim Reap. On my next trip I want to head up to Kratie and look round in that part of the country.

Also I was a wuss and gave the fish massage a miss but my wife tried it and enjoyed the experience. However she went to the night market the next night and thought she'd try it again. The fish were not interested so they must be removing dead skin!

I agree that the experience of talking to the locals can be priceless.
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Old Nov 12th, 2009, 09:46 PM
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Thank you for commenting on my Burma photos,seemaskt. I hope to return to Cambodia where I spent only a week two years ago and to Burma in the near future. I'd like to do a trip somewhat similar to yours in Cambodia since I've only been to Siem Reap and PP. Two weeks in Cambodia and another two in Burma. . .maybe.

I read your terrific trip report on Rwanda in the Africa forum. I've visited the gorillas in Uganda, a country I love, and Rwanda is on my list. Your report made me even more eager to get back to the gorillas!
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Old Nov 13th, 2009, 05:29 AM
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silverwool - That's wonderful to be able to visit your daughter and also be able to combine that with some travel in Asia. If you don't mind my asking, what does your daughter do in Cambodia?

I was a bit of a wuss initially too about the fish pedicure, but after watching my husband for a few minutes and determining that he actually wasn't being eaten I decided to give it a try. You should too, when you're in Cambodia next. It's definitely interesting!

Sounds like a great plan, whitepelican. I'm envious. Looking forward to the pictures.
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Old Nov 13th, 2009, 05:31 AM
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Oh, and I forgot, day 2 in Battambang is now complete and available at
http://culturesconnected.smugmug.com/Travel/Cambodia

This includes details of the cooking class that we signed up for (a must-do for anyone that enjoys cooking and interested in other cuisines).
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Old Nov 13th, 2009, 03:19 PM
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My daughter teaches English in Siem Reap. She has been there for 4 years and loves it. Only thing she misses is the authentic cinema experience as opposed to watching movies on DVD. Still the occasional trip to Bangkok or HCMC fixes that.

I loved your market photos, the colours and textures reminded me of the tastes. I want to go back! I found water snake a bit stringy and ho hum. There are a lot more exotics available in Cambodia. Spiders and crickets for example. (I tried a spider and do not intend to repeat the experience but cricket is quite tasty.
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Old Nov 13th, 2009, 04:39 PM
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Thanks for your interesting post. Very much enjoyed it.
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Old Nov 14th, 2009, 05:30 AM
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Thanks travelblogger.

silverwool, local markets are so colorful and so much fun, aren't they? Just looking through all the pictures again while we were posting them was making us crave Khmer food. We've got to go to chinatown soon to shop, so we can recreate the recipes we learnt.

And wow, you are so adventurous with your food, much more than I ever hope to be! We saw the fried exotics later on in the trip, but couldn't bring ourselves to try any of it.
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Old Nov 15th, 2009, 04:33 AM
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Our musings and pictures for Kampong Chhnang are now up
http://culturesconnected.smugmug.com/Travel/Cambodia

This was one of our favorite days in Cambodia, so we hope you enjoy.
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Old Nov 17th, 2009, 06:26 AM
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Our trip report is finally complete. Our 2 days in Phnom Penh have been added.

http://culturesconnected.smugmug.com/Travel/Cambodia

Thanks for reading along thus far. For all you Cambodia lovers, we hope it brought back fond memories of your trip.
For those traveling to Cambodia in the near future, we hope this gives you ideas on what you can do there and stirs up excitement about your upcoming trip.
For those unsure about Cambodia and those who may have not have considered a trip there, we hope this encourages you to consider this amazing country for your next vacation.

I'll be back in a few days to post some additional thoughts/comments about the trip.

- Seema
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Old Nov 17th, 2009, 10:55 AM
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Just wanted to add I loved reading about your journey and seeing the photos. I'm happy to see you ventured so far afield for your first visit to Cambodia. I've been twice, but only to Siem Reap and Phnom Penh. For my next visit I'm considering Battambang.
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Old Nov 17th, 2009, 04:52 PM
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Thanks Kristina! Lucky you, being able to make 3 trips to Cambodia. When are you planning your next visit?
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Old Nov 17th, 2009, 06:30 PM
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Fantastic report. Your details and pictures helped provide a visual for a book I just finished. It also gives alot of appeal to traveling more into Cambodia beyond the typical tourist areas. I've had to postpone my plans - hopefully next year I can go.

On a side note - I read your Rwanda report. Gorilla treking is on my top ten must travel list - awesome photos. Looking forward to reading about Tanzania.
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Old Nov 18th, 2009, 06:36 AM
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Thanks absolutkz! That was my primary intention behind posting our report on this forum, since there is already a lot of information available here for Siem Reap and the temples. I hope you can go next year.

Thanks for checking out our East Africa reports and glad you're enjoying them. Rwanda and the gorilla trekking will be an experience you will never forget. Happy planning!
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