julies

What day was it that you were flying Angkor Air?

On Jan. 28 we had an Angkor Air flight from Siem Reap to Sihanoukville. When we got to the airport (3 hours before our flight) we found a board that said "retime" for our flight. We had no clue what this meant. When we looked at the board there were many cancelled Angkor Air flights, so many that we wondered if they had gone out of business.

So, we started to search around for an employee. None to be found anywhere. They supposedly have a large onsite office, but it was closed (for lunch we were told by other airport employees) the entire time we tried to locate an employee, any employee at all. Temps were way over 90 degrees, and we kept walking back and forth outside, dragging our suitcases, hoping to find an employee. I tried calling their phone number and got a message that said they couldn't take calls now. So, we were really starting to wonder if the company had gone bottom up. We had also signed up for their TripCase notification service. That never indicated anything but an on-time flight.

Finally, the message on the board changed to say that our flight would be leaving two hours late, and some employees appeared. They decided to check all of us in, so after we went through security there was an entire room of hot, sweaty people with not nearly enough chairs for all. To their credit, Angkor Air did distribute meal vouchers to all passengers.

When we arrived in Kampot (we had a taxi take us there from the Sihanoukville airport) and checked into our hotel, we were told this is a common occurrence. Nearly every flight from Siem Reap to Sihaoukvile is two hours late with no explanation given whatsoever.

Today we had another fight with Angkor Air, but this one was international. We discovered that their website does not provide any updates at all as to whether departures are on time or late. In fact, there is no such place on their website for any kind of updates. Everything went well, and on a 1.25 hour flight we were even served a nice lunch salad with shrimp and beef.

jhubbel

Julies I honestly can't recall at this point- I think it was perhaps the 21st? Not sure, I'd have to find the paperwork.

While we had to wait nearly six hours in the first case, we got no vouchers at all. The second day we got a voucher for a Coke. Or a juice. And waited four or five hours. Depending. I'd arrived close to one, left at close to 7.

So no- I have no mercy at all for these clowns. None. And you're absolutley right- too many hot sweaty people, no plugs for our devices. It was damned hot outside.
Two hours might have been a mercy compared to what I experienced. I have no issue with two- that's not a big deal when traveling internationally and far worse happens. But when we compare notes here- this is just bad business practices period. You cannot cancel move or otherwise protect yourself from them. You cannot reach anyone. In other words once they have your money you are screwed. And that, m'dear, doesn't go well with me.

jhubbel

The minivan to Pnom Penh was supposedly a four hour ride. Well, sort of. We did make a stop on the way, which afforded me a really nice opportunity to do something I've long wanted to do which is to do an offering to the monks. One doesn't know how or the proper way. This presented itself just perfectly at our rest stop when a group of four monks came up and stood waiting. A young girl agreed to help so I purchased four bowls of rice and sauce, and together we walked out front. I did precisely what she did, and got a blessing along with her. When I stood, the oldest monk gave me the most beatific smile one could imagine, and that really did wipe the slate clean of the annoyance of the handsy tuk tuk driver and a great deal more. So often it's easy to forget what power a smile- and nothing else- can have on someone else, in any culture between any two humans. That made my day and is one of the biggest highlights of my trip.

When we entered Pnom Penh, we slowed to a one mile an hour crawl. Having Madre fine time to that point, it took the better part of two hours more to drop off our various passengers. I finally found Rory's Pub which is on St. 178 right across from the National Museum and centrally located. With a fridge, AC and a very nice staff, it was perfect.

This final week was already pre planned and needed just a few more details: I was to visit the Wildlife Alliance, as recommended by an earlier poster, and I had found a riding stable very close by, Areyksat with Guillaume who guides all the rides. Their number, btw is 077 35 7774, As with the Wildlife Alliance which I will address shortly, both are wonderful nearby adventures and highly recommended.

jhubbel

Wildlife alliance was well worth the investment of time and energy, I'm very pleased to report. The outfit charges you $150 for the day, picks you up in Pnom Penh and supplies you with water and food during the day. The best part is the back door access to the animals.

You are allowed to interact directly with certain of the animals, in this case several ellies who appreciated the attention (especially those soft brushes on the face and head), and of course one particular gibbon who loves a back massage. I was paired with two young men from London who were happier to watch rather than touch and interact until we got to the monkey cage.

The monkeys have virtually all been saved from the illegal pet trade (WA swoops in on these operations and confiscates their animals) and they are often quite young. They are rehabilitated and returned to the wild, as are most of their animals but for the cross bred tigers which cannot be allowed to run free. This is an interesting item, as those who are breeding for money simply want a tiger, any tiger. What was at WA were several which were crosses between Siberian and Asian. We were told that this particular kind of cross results in an animal whose physiology has been compromised, in such a way that it can't run properly, hence hunt. If these animals breed in the wild, it would compromise the already very delicate future of the few that are left in SE Asia.

We were able to feed many of the animals, and as is my wont I was able to play with one female ellie whose tendency to be a little enthusiastic meant that our interactions had to be through the fence.

The money goes towards supporting WA's efforts to continue to fight the illegal pet trade. Keep in mind too that in the culture of SE Asia, many believe that to eat a part of an animal is to ingest its spirit,which is why the Asian black bear and tiger as well as the macacque are under siege. All were at WA, it was the first time I'd seen the bears. This is well worth the visit and the investment. From all accounts that I could see and from what I learned during the day, it's an uphill battle, and one that I'm afraid isn't going to be won. One tiger draws $200k, and that's one heck of a motivation for a villager to bag one of the last remaining. If you are in the area, this visit should be on the agenda. A really good day.

jhubbel

The final two outings I took by horseback were with Guillaume, mentioned earlier. He showed up by tuk tuk at Rory's Pub in the very early dawn (long after some very sleepy drivers tried hard to get my business) and we were off to his very lively house to get our horses.

Guillaume is married to a Cambodian, has kids, an extended family and two simply enormous Great Danes. The male has a bit of mastiff in him but the female is still a puppy and enough to saddle up and ride. Both were lovely animals and great fun to pet, albeit I paid the price with the puppy when she repeatedly knocked me down and I ended up sporting some significant bruises.

Guillaume's riding territory, for once, didn't take us past high stinking piles of garbage. We rode through mango orchards and lemon grass plantations, and as the bright blue-red dawn rose in the east it was a joy to be astride a lively young mare and looking with pleasure at the country side. He charged about $60 for three hours and he puts a lot of time into ensuring that inexperienced riders get lots of attention. It was a genuine delight riding with him and exploring the land across the river from the city which was a far cry from the city itself.

For those who love to ride, and who want a variety of horses to choose from, Guillaume had a good range for children to advanced. What I liked best other than the riding itself, which was varied and energetic, was his constant patter. His background as a professional rider and trainer is really engaging, and made the ride great fun.

I booked another day with him right away, and stayed on for another hour playing with his huge dogs. It was a wonderful way to round out the trip.

jhubbel

I wanted to share with you a story that happened regarding Green Discoveries after I came back home. I had written them directly with my comments about their trip, and had posted a very clear and not very good review on Trip Advisor as well as my comments here. I received a rather long emal from a German man who heads up one of their departments and I wish to share what he asked.

While he acknowledged that I had a right to my experiences (glad to hear it) he challenged me about whether it was far by saying that virtually everyone else liked the tour or that they got favorable reviews. He also said that I'd "chosen" a soft tour (actually I'd spoken to a local girl and she put me on it, I didn't choose it). In effect, he argued that I should change my review and my comments to be more positive.

He also claimed that Green Discoveries had "no control" over tourist behavior, such as the insane Koreans who blasted our group.

The intriguing part of this is that the product that they are selling has changed. The fact that the guides don't do a safety briefing on what to do if your kayak flips wasn't addressed at all. The writeup says that you will have an idyllic trip down the river- well, that's not the case any more, as I found out. The bottom line for me is that if GD can't promise a quiet and idyllic trip down the river in some safety, then they can't advertise it.

I also pointed out that it most certainly is within the company's control to do something about the dangers on the river. By working with other operators, establishing AND ENFORCING safety standards and getting rid of guides who don't abide by them, they can clean up the river. It will take work, but one death will be the end of it. To say that they can't do anything is a copout,and it leaves the choice up to the traveler to trust them. I don't, and I don't think anyone else should either.

There is no way I am going to change a review that duns a company for problems that put travelers in danger on one hand, and on the other, what they promise they can no longer offer. Vang Vieng is still a party town. They have to clean that up first.

It is also a little breathtaking to ask me to change my review because others didn't feel like I did. On the contrary. Very few really angry customers take the time either to write a review (perpetual complainers will) or to directly complain to a company. A complaint is a genuine gift in that is a big red flag. You can either learn from it or in his case, try to get someone to change their story to make your ratings look better. The latter is out of the question. I believe strongly that GD needs to do something about providing safety training, and about the other companies in the area who stand to lose a great deal when people get hurt on the river. You CAN do something. Otherwise tourists do get hurt.

While those reading this may go on to use Green Discoveries in Vang Vieng despite my warnings, I hope sincerely that they are mature enough to take it to heart and take action. In the meantime I would steer clear and go elsewhere to see Laos' countryside.

jhubbel

On Road 178 which is very close to the National Museum, I found quite a few truly lovely shops. With patience and time, I was able to secure slightly more reasonable prices for a few treasures to load down my backpack, which Kathie will acknowledge. One small out of the way shop has the typical selection of king's heads and the like, but on a bottom shelf hid a bronze Chinese horse. It was hollow enough to not need a set of wheels of its own and it had the patina of age. It took three visits and three offers but we came to a single mind on the price. It now sits on my mantel next to the rest of my horses.

Near the river on the same street were a number of shops that specialized in a variety of bags, shawls, the typical tourist stuff. However in a couple there were programs which stated that the proceeds went to villagers and women in need. These shops had prices which were fairly high (by SE Asian standards, and then some). The goods were nice and assuming that the money actually went where it is intended they were worthwhile. They are well established shops, and I like that the women made their own goods.

jhubbel

Finally, the trip home- a flight to Taiwan, then to Bangkok, then to Narita (hey that's what you get with miles) was a 38 hour no sleep fest. I rested in United Club, watched the Super Bowl score and did my best to sleep.

Today I am disputing Cambodia Angkor Air's charges for the flights they didn't cancel, and am taking them to task for abusing their passengers. I hope everyone got the message: rent a car or take the bus. These guys are bad operators. They overcharge and make you wait, there is no way to change or cancel your reservations on line, and once you've paid, you're stuck. No one responds if you aren't happy or need to change something.

Ultimately as I look back on these two countries, part of me is glad I saw Cambodia, but I see no reason to return. Ever. I was so disheartened by the omnipresent trash, the state of the villages, that I wouldn't dream of going again and spending the rising prices to go walk on garbage strewn beaches. Laos, yes. Anywhere else in SE Asia, yes, but not Cambodia. It's a shame.

ngodeia

jhubbel - I recommended you to visit the Wildlife Alliance Phnom Tamao Wildlife Rescue Center and I am so happy to hear that you enjoyed your time there! The WA team is truly passionate about what they do!

jhubbel

ngodeia, I was most grateful for that recommendation, and was delighted by that visit. It was a day very well spent and I wrote several reviews about it in the hopes of getting more folks to do the same.

ngodeia

jhubbel - Great to hear that you had a good visit!