‘We're on a road to nowhere
Come on inside…’

Take a very big lotus. Stick it in the middle of a circle. Squash it flat. Take a very big champagne glass and up-end it. Bung it on the lotus. Paint the glass white. Turn that lotus into concrete, make the wine glass solid brick. Break off the upended base. Take a square children’s building block – jam it down the stem till it meets the bowl. Cover with gold. Paint two huge eyes on every side. Take a golden stepped pyramid, stretch it and jam it down on top of the block - then leave your stupa to settle for, let’s say, five hundred years.

Now comes the best part. Get one hundred long strings of prayer flags, tie ‘em at the tip of the stem – then arrange them right around the circle, so they touch the edge of your lotus leaves.

Around your stupa, at the base, place a million prayer wheels. Watch as the faithful circle your creation, sunrise, sunset, every day, every month, every year. Round and round, for ever - round and round, the great wind of pilgrimage, round and round - you, me, it; we’re nothing, just atoms drawn around this gold and white thing in the circle, this monumental finger, pointing at the sky.

‘We’re on a road to nowhere...’ David Byrne once sang.

That Nihilist turn of phrase always appealed to me – but, in my Western way, I’d assumed that all roads led somewhere. Sixty years of life has proved otherwise. There are a lot of dead ends.

But we travel because we must, stumble forward through the gloom. Why waste time getting anywhere? Best to wander round and round hoping for a blessing, round and round, always circling, hoping for a glimpse, round and round, round and round, looking for the way in.

Never gonna find it. Never gonna get there.

Keep circling, Dog.

I think I'll stop there.

Kinda Kathmandu.

Thank you, dogster.

In Buddhist way, the round and round is it and you are here/there. The journey is the destination.

Can you try writing a bit more colorfully?

TheWho gives clues. Dogster tries to throw us off the scent. But I know. His canine handle is a clue. He taps out wonderful stories to entertain us. Rhymes with clever.

Dogster=word love. You make a logophile very, very happy.

You love logs?

Catch-up.

As you've probably noticed, when I'm transmitting, I tend not to receive, so forgive me if I've ignored all your really nice words.

'...Can you try writing a bit more colorfully?...'

I'm assuming this is an ironic comment, LA. lol. The piece is little more than colour and movement - with a hearty dollop of self-indulgence thrown in.

As for the rest of what you're talking about - I have no idea what you mean. What 'rhymes with clever'? Not very many things. Don't blow my cover, LA. It's called 'moving on'.

I think I'll have to get the post in question removed. But, on second thoughts, that goes against the grain. All's fair in Fodor's.

travelaw has just left for 'cyber-purdah' [indianapearl's great description, not mine] but she alone knows the truth about the Dogster. heh.

'I have it from a reliable source that dogster is eccentric and lovable.'

Absolutely true, trav.

Carol [simpsonc510] is one of the few Fodorites that has actually met the Dog, although I was in a number of disguises. She had to go immediately to Vegas to rid her mind of the experience. Only repeated attendance at the Donny and Marie Osmond show at the Flamingo has revived her.

thursday: the Dog will never 'out himself' - although I get the distinct feeling that the Fodor's grapevine has worked it all out. I prefer it when sleeping dogs are let lie.

I particularly love it when somebody comes in from the cold and notices the Dogster's ramblings. Thanks, KERRYAJS1 for your great words: '...sampling something strange...' How perceptive of you. lol.

Marija - lol, stop stirring. Bruno is a terrible gossip, but a Great Dane only tells the truth. It is the way of all dogs, even this one. I have formed a new organisation called 'The Reality Construction Company' and, as CEO, have my own permission to select the appropriate slice of 'real' to fit my needs. Yes, there may be other simultaneous truths going on - but a blind Dog can only see what what he can feel.

Kathie: our trips to KTM were rather different, weren't they? Had I not been there half-a-dozen times before, my focus would have been far more like yours. Now, KTM is a good place for R'n R. I go back to my favorite places. I tried to find some new ones this time - but was hijacked by the Courtyard, my own weak will and a Jimmy or two. 'Plus sa change...'

Amy: words rule. In Australia a disease like logophilia is treated on arrival at the airport. Nobody that can pronounce more than three consecutive syllables is allowed in.

Now, I'll reflect on the impossibility of answering merkxxx's rather interesting, if cerebral question: '...so, what is real?'

As he/she has promoted me from stumble-bum fool to cosmic 'All Knowing' master of the universe, I feel that such a reply should be in my grasp. I'll just walk around Boudhanath another three million times and maybe I'll come up with it.

Om-m-m-m-m-m.

Dog, I saw that big Donny and Marie sign, but did not partake. I saw Bette Midler instead. What a show! Now my mind is most definitely cleared of anything I once "knew" about the dog and our chance meeting.. teehee

So how's Bangkok. You didn't say. Where is your home away from home this time? Is it the Arnoma now?
Carol

dogster - consider the "d" in my name to stand for discretion. My branch of the grapevine exists in splendid isolation - although LA and I may have independently reached the same conclusion ("clever"??).

Let's keep Dogster's cat in the bag...

I LOVE cats . . . keep on the trail, Dogster. I'm not quite sure where you are at the moment, but then, perhaps you don't know either.

On another note, Boss and I had dinner last week in Austin with our old friend, bonnieheather. She and her DH are well. We'll be back in late April when our granddaughter is born and will get together again.

Dog, if I didn't love you, I wouldn't have awarded you a 2009 Foddie.

BC

Dogster, was it irony or sarcasm? No one is more colorful than you. I won't blow yours if you won't blow mine (oh, that sounds a bit naughty).
I am not part of any grapevine, other than the one that produces fermented liquid you drink. Just good at nosing around. Any half-baked journalist knows how to root things out on his life's mission: "Comfort the afflicted and afflict the comfortable." [H.L. Mencken]
But I too have moved on.

Leslie, that quote sounds purely like Gpanda.

BC

Being a lawyer, Gpanda is probably good at afflicting the comfortable and the afflicted (in the latter case, by taking cases on contingency).
And Dogster, don't you DARE remove this post!

Red rag to a Dog really that!

lol Mary; LA is my literary advisor and Sherlock Holmes to my Watson. She can say anything she likes. She can threaten, cajole and be downright rude and all I do is smile.

It occurs to me that I don't actually know if LA is a 'she' lol. Dunno why I assumed that.

Actually, LA doesn't know it, but a comment she made in the Tamil Nadu thread I had deleted was the single thing that made me go 'Wha...? Dog is going mad. Hmmmm - could it be the cough medicine...? Perhaps if I stop taking that....?'

So, LA rescued me from insanity, Tamil Nadu and certain death. I owe her.

She also reads my words in a different way. A smart dog would send her everything in advance for editing before bunging it in here. But, I'm not a smart dog.

On matters mysterious: all Detective LA needed was a single clean clue. I love sleuthing too. I particularly love hoisting people up and jamming them down on their own petard. Which is why I liked merkxxx's comment above. What's good for the goose...

How's the roo-buster, Mary? Give him my regards.

Just received an e-mail from the Kathmandu Embassy - Looks like the Maoists are set to shut down the whole of Nepal starting on Sunday...

No surprise Craig. The 24th January has been a date to conjure with for weeks now... I'm glad I got there - AND out before the big lock-down.

I'll have to call the Hyatt and cancel the band. I had garlands, gurkhas and ganja, all prepared and waiting for you... damn.

IT's crazy stuff. Everybody suffers, nobody gains. So, I guess Plan B is firming up, eh?

I'd be avoiding Darjeeling, too.
http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/i...ow/5435603.cms

Actually consuming black tea last month during a cold snap contributed to a kidney stone I passed last week. (Black tea is rich in oxylates which bind with calcium to form a kidney stone.) It was very cold last month and I'd taken to have a cuppa (or two or three) in the evening.

BC

lol BC - well, that's good to know.

I'm not quite sure just HOW you pass a kidney stone, [no, I don't need the details], but if it's what I think, I very much hope it was a little one.

Pray tell - just what does this have to do with Kathmandu? lol lol lol. So funny.

Fortunately, Darjeeling is not on our itinerary which includes Varanasi, Udaipur, Aurangabad and Bangkok.

Nothing, other than seeing "Darjeeling" made me think of tea instantly.

Actually, believe it or not, there was no pain whatsoever involved in passing this particular stone. Not so lucky in late 2004, when I passed my first kidney stone (due to taking calcium supplements) which sent me to the local hospital in tears due to physical discomfort. However, the whole ordeal is supposed to be much, much, much, much, much worse for men!

BC

Does anyone have any good info about the Maoists in eastern India?

Kidney stones: for intimate and excruciating detail on this, read Samuel Pepys: The Unequalled Self by Claire Tomalin.

Not quite sure where we are with Dogster's travels but...
I leave for India on 28th having digested all the dog's wisdom.

gertie - only 6 more sleeps! How great. There's not much of a meal in a Dog's wisdom. I think it's a matter of do as I say, NOT what I do.

Don't worry about that left hand and just pick up a plug with two round prongs. I've been checking your old posts - I was deep on the road by then so I lost you; where did you decide to stay in Goa? If it's the Panjim Inn, about a hundred yards down the side street heading into town, to the left, is a great little restaurant. Perfect for us singles. You'll see why.

Also within a block is a reputedly great Portugese [ish] restaurant. The owner's brother had died so it was shut for me. Maybe he died because he knew I was in town.

And remember, as this is your first trip to India, never exit an airport without making sure you have a pre-paid taxi or a pre-arranged airport pick-up. Just do this for me - O.K.?

Remember also that should things turn weird, a quick post in here will bring you all the reassurance and advice you'll need. I am an expert in Indian weirdness. Wow, how excited you must be.

indiana: Maoist is a big term. So is Eastern India. Everything is specific and local. I can't remotely follow the politics - but if you want to know who's killing each other this week, you'll need to be more specific.

BC - free association is fine by me. I could scarcely point the finger of scorn at that. My whole life these days is free association.

Dogster, you are SO sweet!
Yes, I will get myself a pre-paid taxi from the taxi stand in the airport when I arrive.
Yes, I have booked the Panjim Inn, the people there were very nice.
Yes, I will post if things go pearshaped
Yes I am very excited. I leave for London tonight!

Woo-hoo! Fabulous. Get Panjim to do your pick-up from the airport. The restaurant there is errr... adequate to fairly crappy, tho [food wise] - just go along the little street and look down [I think] the first alley to the left.

There, I bet you'll find a collection of the oddest, most interesting people in town. I sure did. Now get off the internet and begin the great adventure!

Dogster, I did actually think my Tamil Nadu comment was possibly to blame for the de-posting. But I like even crazy, even when it's crazier than normal. (Insert smiley face here.)
I'm a she, right the first time.
And I only give literary advice for a price since that was my profession. Maybe we can trade services and you can teach me something in return for my advice. But you don't need it. A natural you are, not only with words but perceptions about people, politics, life.
And it was a single clean clue way way back that did it. You probably know which one. As a devout fan, I parse your every word carefully.
Brilliant ending to this Kathmandu adventure tale, BTW. And brilliantly articulate insights into the do-gooders, my favorite part.

Thanks LA for those nice words.

I'm changing hotels today: now that Kathmandu is off my chest I'm feeling strangely attracted to revisiting the Fate and Tamil Nadu debacle - some of which is SO odd that, even though the whole story will make me seem like a witless, gibbering fool, even worse than usual, I might chuck myself back into it - if the new hotel has the right vibes for writing.

We'll see.

I'm curious. Is there something about hotels that brings out the creativity? Can't write at home?
Look forward to Tamil Nadu but even more to Pandaw!

I am athrill with anticipation for the next installment!
And it looks like I won't be bringing my logophilia to Australia this year after all; it's suddenly morphed into Chile. 2011 for Oz, maybe.

Life is really interesting.

It's our treat to see the Doggie chase his own tale. Our good fortune that he travels Asia so frequently. He could just as easily tromp around Africa or South America and we Asian Fodorites would be so much poorer.

Most of it is done at home - but, as I'm now never at home, I'm moving into a new work practice. The above piece was really just get me back into the zone. Once I'm there, as you well know, it's easier to continue than stop.

What I did learn in Tamil Nadu is not to try and blog on the road. It's incredibly time-consuming and prone, as I'll soon demonstratrate, to madness. Everything needs at least a week's reflection before posting. The more extreme moments need longer - hence the wait on Pandaw.

Because Pandaw WAS extreme - for me, anyway. Three months later and I'm still disturbed. I really don't know how I'll write that without burning some bridges. The Prince of Patna probably won't be too pleased either. Both these pieces will probably be written at home - if I ever get there.

Roo-buster sends regards back, Dogster. He's doing great as he hasn't had the desire to tackle any more of the population lately or maybe they are just staying out of his way for a change - the place is full of tourists so the roos are spending their time jumping in front of them instead!

Hi Dogster: You are making me very nervous with your comments about the "ordeal by Pandaw." Please divulge all while I still have time to jump ship!

eks - I was talking about the Ganges. In Burma and along the Mekong the cruises are perfectly fine. I've spent, from memory, at least a month [combined] on Pandaws in Burma and done the Mekong trip 2 1/2 times. You're in good hands. If you were going to India I'd be worried for you [and sending you a personal E-mail to explain why] - but you're not. Relax on this one - you and your companions will find everything to your satisfaction. Luckily, you're traveling with pals - which means you can avoid the other passengers if they are vile.

Pandaw does have a client base of some of the most awful people in creation. Without exception, they come from the U.K. Sorry if that offends anyone here - but I don't care: it's 100% true. I'm not even gonna add the customary IMHO.

Really - rela-a-a-ax. You've made a good choice.

Well....hahaha....I pop in for a quick peek after an extended absence and a bit of life on the road...and lordy look who has re-surfaced - full of vim and vigor. Good to "hear" you are back in the pink despite all the docs best efforts to lay you low. HNY mate.

Had to laugh at the Nepal Jimmy bit - flashed me back to August '69. An unassuming preppie from the burbs stumbled onto a thing called Woodstock and quite an education was had, HA! Anyway those stories are best left for another time/place....or maybe even better forgotten.

Say, lay off the talk about being old, huh ? We are VERY close in age, yet I still have the mental perception that I am twenty something - don't burst the bubble, haha - kinda enjoy that illusion/delusion/flashback.

Wait just a minute, Mr. Hound. Pandaw has the most abysmal client base but I should relax?

I am not sure that even my charm and personality can bring up the standards brought low by fellow cruisers such as the infamous Tent Lady...