Diary of a Cranky Traveler: Rizzuto seeks Food, Clothing, and Light
Nov 30th, 2010, 01:10 PM
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I hope to go back to Quincy. For one thing, I would like to visit the First Parish Church where the Adamses are buried.
Mary: You can't miss it. Its in the very center of Quincy across from City Hall, on Hancock Street. Beautiful old church.
I had never heard of the library referred to as the Stone House..then again, it was not a natonal park with guides, etc when I was a kid. I lived a few blocks fom the Mansion and we were allowed to play all aroud the grounds in them thar dark days of yesteryear. I have taken my kids back to Quincy several times and revisjted the birthplaces and the Mansion.
The Quincy Homestead on Butler Street is also a place to visit. Elegant old colonial.Of course, you can also visit my birthplace on Curtis Avenueevnue! LOL
stu
Mary: You can't miss it. Its in the very center of Quincy across from City Hall, on Hancock Street. Beautiful old church.
I had never heard of the library referred to as the Stone House..then again, it was not a natonal park with guides, etc when I was a kid. I lived a few blocks fom the Mansion and we were allowed to play all aroud the grounds in them thar dark days of yesteryear. I have taken my kids back to Quincy several times and revisjted the birthplaces and the Mansion.
The Quincy Homestead on Butler Street is also a place to visit. Elegant old colonial.Of course, you can also visit my birthplace on Curtis Avenueevnue! LOL
stu
Nov 30th, 2010, 02:56 PM
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I keep repeating this so that Rizzuto might actually see it amidst all of the non-related drivel. NOTE TO FODORS EDITORS: please feel free to delete all but one of these posts.
It must be December 1st over there already, so...
Happy birthday to you.
Happy birthday to you.
Happy birthday dear Don (Rizzuto).
Happy birthday to you.
It must be December 1st over there already, so...
Happy birthday to you.
Happy birthday to you.
Happy birthday dear Don (Rizzuto).
Happy birthday to you.
Nov 30th, 2010, 03:02 PM
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Mary Alice, about a thousand years ago (back when that area near Cambridgeside Galleria was swampland) I had a romance with a Harvard man. Alas, nothing came of it, but a certain familiarity with the area, and it is a lovely part of the country. I absolutely concur, gardens are gorgeous no matter what the season. (Then again, I'm a mick, and my people came to this continent because they were unsuccessful in growing potatoes in their own country, so my comments must be taken in that light. You can grow a sweet potato with a glass of water and toothpicks, you're a genius to me!)
Rizz, so this trip is a little b-day present to yourself???
HAPPY, HAPPY BIRTHDAY, DON!!!
Otanjou-bi Omedetou Gozaimasu!!!!
(God, I hope I'm not telling you my nephew is pregnant, or something equally as embarrassing/wrong!)
BC
Rizz, so this trip is a little b-day present to yourself???
HAPPY, HAPPY BIRTHDAY, DON!!!
Otanjou-bi Omedetou Gozaimasu!!!!
(God, I hope I'm not telling you my nephew is pregnant, or something equally as embarrassing/wrong!)
BC
Nov 30th, 2010, 03:23 PM
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All hail thread drift! I'm a proponent and Frequent Indulger.
Stu, your photos and stories are jaw-droppingly wonderful. I've read a fair bit about the Hiroshima and Nagasaki bombings, and you've added to my understandings.
It's human nature, I think, to want to see things as good or bad, as right or wrong. Which is the better route to take? Whose fault was that argument between spouses? Which political candidate is right about the economy? Was Japan justified in going to war? Was the U.S. right to drop the bomb on Hiroshima and, especially, Nagasaki? Well, sorry, but the answers to these questions are never, ever simple. Ever. Maybe there's another planet somewhere where it's a rule than people who govern other people are required to be truthful. They ones who govern wouldn't necessarily have to tell the whole truth all the time, but anything they do say would have to be true. Might not end all wars, but at the very least the rank and file would be better equipped to form opinions about how their leaders ought to be conducting themselves.
Craig, thank you for the cheery song, though I have no clue how you got hold of that datum. Mary Alice, is the Longfellow House across from the park (maybe it's called Longfellow Park) that runs from the free parking area on Mt Auburn St to the LDS church on Brattle St? (Hmmm. Is the LDS church still standing? They had a nasty fire there a few months ago.)
Oh, right, I am still in Japan.
The short trip to Gora was a great treat. The train from Tokyo station to Odawara was just over a half-hour, and then picked up the hotel shuttle to Gora, about 45 uphill minutes away. I was happy and surprised to see the fall colors in great form! The area around Hakone Yumato was dazzling, with deep reds and bright yellows abounding. The koyo here is so different from the fall colors in New England -- seems to be far more drawn out here than back home (more tree varieties in Hakone?), so a greater mix of early, peak, and late colors, along with plenty of green trees and bare ones. Hakone's topography is a lot more vertical than the rolling hills of New England --
result tends to be that more trees are staring you in the face instead of languishing off in the distance. The color palette is different as well. At its best, New England has a dazzling mix of bright and vivid reds and oranges, as Nature makes her a[pology for that which is to follow. Hakone's colors seems a bit more subtle to me: deeper reds, more complex oranges, but with the screaming yellows, like an avalanche of goldfinches.
My camera, of course, was safe in its suitcase that I'd sent ahead the previous day to the hotel. And up here at Gora, the color is largely gone. Sorry.
I'm staying at the Hyatt in Gora, and I will assure you that it's unlike any image of a Hyatt you might have. The lounge/lobby area is reminiscent of a contemporary ski lodge: an open fireplace in the center of things, with cozy seating all around, very soft lighting, and a glass wall that looks out onto a garden. Free champagne and drinks are on offer from 4 to 7, which has the effect of drawing lots and lots of guests to hang out in the area, all of which creates a Japanese Gemütlichkeit, sort of. The guests here are mostly Japanese -- I'd say that fewer than 1 in 10 are Westerners -- and that's consistent with observations on my previous visit here.
Room is nice enough, with a mountain view and enclosed sitting area/patio by the picture window. I'd had a suite with the same view on the last visit, so no upgrade this time, but the room is way more than ample for me. Dinner was a small sandwich to sop up champagne in the lounge.
I did the full Self-Indulgence thing yesterday after arriving: a long soak in the onsen, a n 80-minute massage at the spa, and then a couple of hours in the lobby with constantly-refilled champagne flutes. One really, really odd note: I'm in the spa, and the usual spa music is going on. If you've never been to one of these, the music is typically some ultra-mellow, ultra-slow thing that features a piano where one note is played every 12-15 seconds, and some other instrument like a flute or string sort of filling in the gap. You don't really listen to the music, you just sort of swirl with it. Well, the music here was no different, except that at one point ... did I really just hear that? Yes, indeedee, the melody (which is rare enough, and often impossible to locate even when extant) was the old Irish drinking song, "Whiskey in the Jar" (also called Killgaroe Mountain). The spa version is at 1/24th the tempo as any that I'd heard or sung before. Someone has a sense of humor, somewhere.
Those few of you who were at the Boston GTG and maintained a modicum of sobriety may recall that I wore a yukata to the event. (Not my fault: Bob and Andy told me that it was to be a costume party.) Anyway, I have been wearing the very same item around the hotel, and, as Peter suggested, I fit in just fine. It's very comfortable, actually, though the knees can get a bit chilly. No way that my feet can fit into their little geta, and I'm glad I brought my own sandals.
It's amazing how much narrower Japanese people are than Westerners. I don't just mean that they're not fat, I mean side-to-side narrow. I've always noticed the women of course, but the men as well. There happened to be three other guys doing the shower and scrub thing before soaking in the onsen, and it really struck me how little space these guys take up. (Guess that's why I couldn't find a pair of gloves to fit me in Tokyo.)
Many of you have never been to an onsen, and that's too bad. Well, yes, first you might need to deal with whatever issues you might have about walking across a room with a bunch of other people who are also (1)unclothed and (2)just as silly-looking as you are, but that passes quickly. Then you dunk yourself into the onsen, and it is a magic feeling, somehow. You sit there, feeling very much like an egg that's been dropped into not-quite-boiling water and is slowly poaching. 10 or 15 minutes later you're done.
Looks like another fine day here. Off to Gora Park in a little while. Cheers,
Stu, your photos and stories are jaw-droppingly wonderful. I've read a fair bit about the Hiroshima and Nagasaki bombings, and you've added to my understandings.
It's human nature, I think, to want to see things as good or bad, as right or wrong. Which is the better route to take? Whose fault was that argument between spouses? Which political candidate is right about the economy? Was Japan justified in going to war? Was the U.S. right to drop the bomb on Hiroshima and, especially, Nagasaki? Well, sorry, but the answers to these questions are never, ever simple. Ever. Maybe there's another planet somewhere where it's a rule than people who govern other people are required to be truthful. They ones who govern wouldn't necessarily have to tell the whole truth all the time, but anything they do say would have to be true. Might not end all wars, but at the very least the rank and file would be better equipped to form opinions about how their leaders ought to be conducting themselves.
Craig, thank you for the cheery song, though I have no clue how you got hold of that datum. Mary Alice, is the Longfellow House across from the park (maybe it's called Longfellow Park) that runs from the free parking area on Mt Auburn St to the LDS church on Brattle St? (Hmmm. Is the LDS church still standing? They had a nasty fire there a few months ago.)
Oh, right, I am still in Japan.
The short trip to Gora was a great treat. The train from Tokyo station to Odawara was just over a half-hour, and then picked up the hotel shuttle to Gora, about 45 uphill minutes away. I was happy and surprised to see the fall colors in great form! The area around Hakone Yumato was dazzling, with deep reds and bright yellows abounding. The koyo here is so different from the fall colors in New England -- seems to be far more drawn out here than back home (more tree varieties in Hakone?), so a greater mix of early, peak, and late colors, along with plenty of green trees and bare ones. Hakone's topography is a lot more vertical than the rolling hills of New England --
result tends to be that more trees are staring you in the face instead of languishing off in the distance. The color palette is different as well. At its best, New England has a dazzling mix of bright and vivid reds and oranges, as Nature makes her a[pology for that which is to follow. Hakone's colors seems a bit more subtle to me: deeper reds, more complex oranges, but with the screaming yellows, like an avalanche of goldfinches.
My camera, of course, was safe in its suitcase that I'd sent ahead the previous day to the hotel. And up here at Gora, the color is largely gone. Sorry.
I'm staying at the Hyatt in Gora, and I will assure you that it's unlike any image of a Hyatt you might have. The lounge/lobby area is reminiscent of a contemporary ski lodge: an open fireplace in the center of things, with cozy seating all around, very soft lighting, and a glass wall that looks out onto a garden. Free champagne and drinks are on offer from 4 to 7, which has the effect of drawing lots and lots of guests to hang out in the area, all of which creates a Japanese Gemütlichkeit, sort of. The guests here are mostly Japanese -- I'd say that fewer than 1 in 10 are Westerners -- and that's consistent with observations on my previous visit here.
Room is nice enough, with a mountain view and enclosed sitting area/patio by the picture window. I'd had a suite with the same view on the last visit, so no upgrade this time, but the room is way more than ample for me. Dinner was a small sandwich to sop up champagne in the lounge.
I did the full Self-Indulgence thing yesterday after arriving: a long soak in the onsen, a n 80-minute massage at the spa, and then a couple of hours in the lobby with constantly-refilled champagne flutes. One really, really odd note: I'm in the spa, and the usual spa music is going on. If you've never been to one of these, the music is typically some ultra-mellow, ultra-slow thing that features a piano where one note is played every 12-15 seconds, and some other instrument like a flute or string sort of filling in the gap. You don't really listen to the music, you just sort of swirl with it. Well, the music here was no different, except that at one point ... did I really just hear that? Yes, indeedee, the melody (which is rare enough, and often impossible to locate even when extant) was the old Irish drinking song, "Whiskey in the Jar" (also called Killgaroe Mountain). The spa version is at 1/24th the tempo as any that I'd heard or sung before. Someone has a sense of humor, somewhere.
Those few of you who were at the Boston GTG and maintained a modicum of sobriety may recall that I wore a yukata to the event. (Not my fault: Bob and Andy told me that it was to be a costume party.) Anyway, I have been wearing the very same item around the hotel, and, as Peter suggested, I fit in just fine. It's very comfortable, actually, though the knees can get a bit chilly. No way that my feet can fit into their little geta, and I'm glad I brought my own sandals.
It's amazing how much narrower Japanese people are than Westerners. I don't just mean that they're not fat, I mean side-to-side narrow. I've always noticed the women of course, but the men as well. There happened to be three other guys doing the shower and scrub thing before soaking in the onsen, and it really struck me how little space these guys take up. (Guess that's why I couldn't find a pair of gloves to fit me in Tokyo.)
Many of you have never been to an onsen, and that's too bad. Well, yes, first you might need to deal with whatever issues you might have about walking across a room with a bunch of other people who are also (1)unclothed and (2)just as silly-looking as you are, but that passes quickly. Then you dunk yourself into the onsen, and it is a magic feeling, somehow. You sit there, feeling very much like an egg that's been dropped into not-quite-boiling water and is slowly poaching. 10 or 15 minutes later you're done.
Looks like another fine day here. Off to Gora Park in a little while. Cheers,
Nov 30th, 2010, 10:30 PM
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Fifteen minutes? Fifteen minutes isn't nearly long enough, rizzuto. You need a good hour or so of steeping before the benefits of the onsen can be fully realized. You'll know you're cooked when you have trouble staying awake through dinner. Or, in my case, spend nearly the entire hour+ train trip back to Tokyo asleep, on a commuter train no less.
Nov 30th, 2010, 11:02 PM
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Yes the skin must be wrinkling before getting out of the onsen but oh how I envy you right now. Just back from a day of koyo viewing and shopping in Namba, Osaka carrying bags and following Linda around while she madly bought everything in sight. My legs are about to fall off and I could sure use a soak right now but will have to wait a few days till we hit Kinosaki Onsen for relief. Was updated to a suite at the Hyatt Osaka but no onsen here.....
Had a chuckle about sending the camera bag ahead. Seems to me you need to find that Japanese wife to take care of all those mundane things and keep the house and body in order,lol. Great reporting, waiting for more
Aloha!
Had a chuckle about sending the camera bag ahead. Seems to me you need to find that Japanese wife to take care of all those mundane things and keep the house and body in order,lol. Great reporting, waiting for more
Aloha!
Happy birthday dear Donnie
Dec 1st, 2010, 12:53 AM
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Kon-banwa,
Therese: An hour? An Hour!! Surely you have taken leave of your senses. I'd had 2 raw eggs and a glass of milk just before; I'd have been a fully baked custard after an hour.
Peter: Thanks for the suggestion, and wouldn't mind finding a Japanese wife to take care of all the details. Not sure what her husband would say about it, though.
And on to today's report:
But first, a small kvetch. Blogspot, what a total loser of a site. I had/have a travel blog there, and was going to post a bunch of pics from this trip, and the uploads -- which take forever in the first place -- have now failed 3 times in a row. This is not fun. I have a few nice fotos to share, including a granny with purple hair. But I have been thwarted. Must I really now go read those threads about which photo-sharing site to use?
It was a splendid day here in Hakone, and I was unable to completely waste it. Got a lift from the hotel to Gora Park, which is a French-style garden midway between the hotel and the town of Gora. Both the gardens and its patrons are well-kept, generally, with quite a few of the plantings and visitors hanging on as best they can. There was a curious sighting (as it were) of a group of about 12-14 visually impaired people, all Western/anglophone from what I could tell, visiting the park. Not especially the easiest place to maneuver, as the park is on a steep slope, and a zillion steps of varying widths and rises. Bully for them.
Had a late lunch at a tonkatsuya in Gora that I'd heard about on Flyertalk, a place called Rikyu (www.rikyu.info). Tonkatsu was excellent, maybe a step-and-a-half shy of Butagumi (which is still a serious compliment). Rikyu is obviously well-known, as it had a line to get in at 1pm. Downside is that the place is minuscule, about 8-10 seats at a counter, with not much room at each seat.
Back to the hotel for another long or short soak, depending who you listen to, in the afternoon. The tramway was mobbed,packed standing room, from Gora station. Average age seemed to be about 107, with a disproportionate number of women. Dunno if they'd all outlived their husbands, or if the latter were home enjoying some precious moments of peace and quiet.
Sitting in the lobby lounge now with 3 flutes of champagne in the belly, and floating on top is the sushi set that I chowed down for dinner. Up very early tomorrow: taxi to Odawara, JR Shinkansen to Shinagawa, Keikyu train to Haneda, and CX flight to Hong Kong arriving in mid-afternoon. Cheers,
Therese: An hour? An Hour!! Surely you have taken leave of your senses. I'd had 2 raw eggs and a glass of milk just before; I'd have been a fully baked custard after an hour.
Peter: Thanks for the suggestion, and wouldn't mind finding a Japanese wife to take care of all the details. Not sure what her husband would say about it, though.
And on to today's report:
But first, a small kvetch. Blogspot, what a total loser of a site. I had/have a travel blog there, and was going to post a bunch of pics from this trip, and the uploads -- which take forever in the first place -- have now failed 3 times in a row. This is not fun. I have a few nice fotos to share, including a granny with purple hair. But I have been thwarted. Must I really now go read those threads about which photo-sharing site to use?
It was a splendid day here in Hakone, and I was unable to completely waste it. Got a lift from the hotel to Gora Park, which is a French-style garden midway between the hotel and the town of Gora. Both the gardens and its patrons are well-kept, generally, with quite a few of the plantings and visitors hanging on as best they can. There was a curious sighting (as it were) of a group of about 12-14 visually impaired people, all Western/anglophone from what I could tell, visiting the park. Not especially the easiest place to maneuver, as the park is on a steep slope, and a zillion steps of varying widths and rises. Bully for them.
Had a late lunch at a tonkatsuya in Gora that I'd heard about on Flyertalk, a place called Rikyu (www.rikyu.info). Tonkatsu was excellent, maybe a step-and-a-half shy of Butagumi (which is still a serious compliment). Rikyu is obviously well-known, as it had a line to get in at 1pm. Downside is that the place is minuscule, about 8-10 seats at a counter, with not much room at each seat.
Back to the hotel for another long or short soak, depending who you listen to, in the afternoon. The tramway was mobbed,packed standing room, from Gora station. Average age seemed to be about 107, with a disproportionate number of women. Dunno if they'd all outlived their husbands, or if the latter were home enjoying some precious moments of peace and quiet.
Sitting in the lobby lounge now with 3 flutes of champagne in the belly, and floating on top is the sushi set that I chowed down for dinner. Up very early tomorrow: taxi to Odawara, JR Shinkansen to Shinagawa, Keikyu train to Haneda, and CX flight to Hong Kong arriving in mid-afternoon. Cheers,
Dec 1st, 2010, 12:58 AM
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Kimball, we're not supposed to hear from you until you're back in Boston. Hope you enjoy the weather -- here's the forecast:
.WEDNESDAY...CLOUDY WITH FLURRIES AND PATCHY FOG. HIGHS AROUND
ZERO. NORTHWEST WINDS 10 TO 15 MPH.
.WEDNESDAY NIGHT...MOSTLY CLOUDY WITH FLURRIES AND PATCHY FOG.
LOWS 10 BELOW TO 15 BELOW. NORTHWEST WINDS AROUND 10 MPH.
.THURSDAY...MOSTLY CLOUDY. HIGHS AROUND 5 BELOW. NORTHEAST WINDS
10 TO 15 MPH.
.THURSDAY NIGHT...MOSTLY CLOUDY. CHANCE OF SNOW AFTER MIDNIGHT.
LOWS AROUND 15 BELOW. NORTHEAST WINDS 10 TO 15 MPH.
.WEDNESDAY...CLOUDY WITH FLURRIES AND PATCHY FOG. HIGHS AROUND
ZERO. NORTHWEST WINDS 10 TO 15 MPH.
.WEDNESDAY NIGHT...MOSTLY CLOUDY WITH FLURRIES AND PATCHY FOG.
LOWS 10 BELOW TO 15 BELOW. NORTHWEST WINDS AROUND 10 MPH.
.THURSDAY...MOSTLY CLOUDY. HIGHS AROUND 5 BELOW. NORTHEAST WINDS
10 TO 15 MPH.
.THURSDAY NIGHT...MOSTLY CLOUDY. CHANCE OF SNOW AFTER MIDNIGHT.
LOWS AROUND 15 BELOW. NORTHEAST WINDS 10 TO 15 MPH.
Dec 1st, 2010, 02:55 AM
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Rizz, sorry you didn't have the camera and sorry about the Blogspot site. No, you don't need to sift through all the old threads on photo-sharing websites, because certainly Bob and Stu and Pook and "all the usual suspects" will post in on this thread and let you know.
I've enjoyed reading about your soak, but having "taken the waters" in Idaho Springs, Colorado, I do also know about steeping to the point of relaxation to falling asleep. Pace yourself on the consumption of the champers, old friend--don't want to find yourself face-down on the floor. I saw a photo from the Boston GTG of you and Karen Kimball, so I did see you wearing your yukata, and thought you looked fine. Good job on bringing sandals, though.
Here we apparently just (barely) "dodged a bullet" in regard to snow. It's a balmy 30-ish right now, and highs throughout the week will be in the low 30's, with lows in the low 20's. And then there's that dazzling 45 or so minutes of sunlight we get to enjoy this time of year! Grrrr....
Lookingenviously forward to your next installment, Rizz.
BC
I've enjoyed reading about your soak, but having "taken the waters" in Idaho Springs, Colorado, I do also know about steeping to the point of relaxation to falling asleep. Pace yourself on the consumption of the champers, old friend--don't want to find yourself face-down on the floor. I saw a photo from the Boston GTG of you and Karen Kimball, so I did see you wearing your yukata, and thought you looked fine. Good job on bringing sandals, though.
Here we apparently just (barely) "dodged a bullet" in regard to snow. It's a balmy 30-ish right now, and highs throughout the week will be in the low 30's, with lows in the low 20's. And then there's that dazzling 45 or so minutes of sunlight we get to enjoy this time of year! Grrrr....
Looking
BC
Dec 1st, 2010, 03:05 AM
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Birthday greeting from me too. I'm really enjoying this thread on so many levels Japan which really interests me and is on my need to do soon list as well as all the very interesting asides.
Apologies if it comes out odd The iPods spell check has a mind of it's own!
Apologies if it comes out odd The iPods spell check has a mind of it's own!
Dec 1st, 2010, 06:56 AM
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Don....another very happy birthday wish for you ol'boy! Do something special to celebrate it. A karaoke appearance might be the best ticket for you. Pick a song, any song (what the heck, we don't have to listen to it!)
Best
Stu
Best
Stu
Dec 1st, 2010, 05:20 PM
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Sifting thru the Boston suburbs jokes, one finds an interesting thread about an eccentric round the world trip -I never have been to Japan and I am getting a bit of an idea about it.
Actually I was once in Narita airport for five hours on route to Hong Kong and I want to hear about what's new in Hong Kong and definitely Lyon since my last trip was in 1978!!
thanks Rizzuto and keep it up.
Actually I was once in Narita airport for five hours on route to Hong Kong and I want to hear about what's new in Hong Kong and definitely Lyon since my last trip was in 1978!!
thanks Rizzuto and keep it up.
Dec 1st, 2010, 07:01 PM
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Must I really now go read those threads about which photo-sharing site to use?
Rizz...I always recommend Google's Picasa...easy to use...and a great editing function for us less than professional photographers. For $20 a year, I get mucho gigabytes of photo-share. Here are some pics I took three years ago, of Kyoto's Miho Museum, far out in the countryside.
http://picasaweb.google.com/stuartto...hoMuseumIMPei#
stu
Rizz...I always recommend Google's Picasa...easy to use...and a great editing function for us less than professional photographers. For $20 a year, I get mucho gigabytes of photo-share. Here are some pics I took three years ago, of Kyoto's Miho Museum, far out in the countryside.
http://picasaweb.google.com/stuartto...hoMuseumIMPei#
stu
Dec 2nd, 2010, 12:33 AM
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Photos are up!
Hum-a-chuck, Stu!! Picasa works just fine, even though it's related to the bogus blogspot.
Tokyo photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/dtopaz/T...eat=directlink
Gora Park photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/dtopaz/G...eat=directlink
Hum-a-chuck, Stu!! Picasa works just fine, even though it's related to the bogus blogspot.
Tokyo photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/dtopaz/T...eat=directlink
Gora Park photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/dtopaz/G...eat=directlink
