Delhi (+ Taj Mahal), Varanasi & Mumbai
 

Hi everybody,

I'm planning my first trip to India and I have approximately 10 nights available at the beginning of December. I was wondering how you guys would split these nights in those three places. I'm interested in strolling, visiting markets and historic landmarks (no museums, though). I realize that there are a lot of wonderful places that I'd be missing (Khajuraho, Ellora & Ajanta Caves, Rajasthan, etc.), but these are the places that I'd like to visit on this first trip, because I'm sure (and I hope) and there will be others. Any tips?

Thanks,

Orlando.

Any special reason you're including Mumbai? On a short first trip you're likely better off spending time elsewhere. Instead of Mumbai I'd be inclined to add one Rajasthan city to your list.

Varanasi is a wonderful destination. Although I'm a big advocate for train travel in India, you'd likely be better off flying from Delhi. I would say you need at least three nights for Varanasi, that way you can include a half day trip to Sarnath. Do plan to stay on the river in the old part of town (do a search here for hotel info).

You can visit Agra as a day trip from Delhi (by train), but I'd plan for at least one night so that you can see the Taj at both sunset and dawn. You should also try to include Fatehpur Sikri and Baratpur, which would mean a car and driver - I used one just for a half-day to visit those sights, but some posters here have used one to get to Jaipur from Agra.

I have to say that "strolling, visiting markets" are not activities I associate with India. It's fascinating, bewildering, magnificently diverse, cacophonous, and overwhelming, all at once.

I too would eliminate Mumbai. A typical first visit for many is the Dehli - Agra - Jaipur triangle. We are spending 3 nights in Varanasi next February - Don't know if you could do all of that in 10 nights. Your best bets for strolling are some of the shopping enclaves in Delhi: Santushti Complex and Hauz Khas Village come to mind - not your typical India experience but a nice break from the chaos.

i agree about eliminating mumbai, but perhaps your flights go there??

i had 10 or 11 days two years ago in december and i did the following:

3 nites delhi
2 nites agra
4 nites jaipur
1 nite neemrana palace fort hotel
leave from delhi late at nite so had 1/2 day there before leaving...

this was a perfect trip

so for your trip i guess i would shave a nite from jaipur and one from agra and add those for V

Hey Thursdaysd!

I've always been intrigued by Mumbai. I've read it's not exactly a top destination in India compared to others, but I'd really like to visit it. I'd rather visit Rajasthan all together in one trip instead of splitting it between now and later. I've read and looked up pictures from jaipur and, somehow, I don't "feel" it. There's something about it that makes me "not" want to go there (unlike Mumbai). What's your opinion on Mumbai? Why would you not visit it?

Thanks for the Agra tip. I've never been a fan of daytrips because you never appreciate a place as well as when you spend the night. I guess I could totally fit a night in Agra. However, a car and driver aren't really in my budget, so I don't know about Fatephur Sikri and Baraptur.

Perhaps, what I mean with "strolling and visiting markets" is experiencing the life of a "real" city. I've never been a fan of Disney-like places aimed 100% for tourism where all you see are other tourists/travelers and no local life taking place (museums are a good example of this in my humble opinion). I know that Taj Mahal must be one of these cases, but that'd be an exception. That's why I'm not interested in visiting any caves or temples now. Besides, I know that "easy" isn't a word to be applied in India, but I'd like to do an easy trip. I could buy a package at a travel agency and visit a bunch of "musts" in India, but you never get to experience what you do when you travel on your own (a more real experience).

Any tips on how long in Delhi and Mumbai?

Thanks again!

Thanks Rhkkmk and Craig! I guess you guys posted your replies while I was writing mine. Any particular reasons why you guys think I should eleminate Mumbai off my itinerary?

Orlando.

Orlando - these people - www.rajasthantravelservice.com - are very reasonable. They provided the car and driver I used for Fatehpur Sikri, as well as for part of my time in Rajasthan. In general, a car and driver hired IN India is not that expensive (I travel on a budget, but used one several times in India).

I didn't spend very long in Mumbai, but for me it was just another very big Indian city. (Cool train station, though!) However, that sounds like it may be what you're looking for. If I were going back I'd certainly spend more time investigating the food, including street (or at least outdoor) food, which I generally avoided in India.

I think the reason people are recommending you skip Mumbai is that
1) it is a long distance from Delhi. Flying in India takes a long time...gettting to the airports, waiting for late flights, getting out of airports at the other end.In both Delhi and Mumbai the "city" can be 30 to 90 minutes of taxi ride from the airport, depending on traffic. Varanasi is about 45 minutes from the airport.
2) you are also taking a long trip East to Varanasi, and
3) you are already going to Delhi. While Delhi and Mumbai have different attractions, they are basically both similar in their being huge Indian cities. Markets, people living on the streets, temples, parks, traffic, various ethnic neighborhoods, etc are common to both.

I think you may be surprised that there are very few Disneyland type attractions in India. Even the Taj Mahal is a functioning mosque, and the postcard touts end about 20 yards outside the front gates. Inside, there will be lots of people taking pictures, but you won't find food booths, souvenir stands or anything to indicate it is anything but a historic destination. If you love walking the streets and experiencing the real aspects of India, you can turn a corner from the Taj Mahal and spend the whole trip in Agra. It is an interesting city and as real as it gets, except for the entrance area to the Taj and the marble shops.

That said, I would spend two nights days in Delhi( you'll likely arrive in the evening of one of those nights), then take the 6 am express train to Agra for 1 night. this will give you a chance to see the Taj in the evening, and the next morning as well. Keep in mind that there may be winter fog in the morning so allow time to visit once it burns off . Also be aware that the Taj is closed on Fridays for services at the mosque.

From Agra, you could take a night train to Varanasi and stay two or three nights. Fly Varanasi to Mumbai for your remaining time, and fly home out of Mumbai.

believe me there is nothing disney like about india....

Hey everybody and thanks again!

I've decided to skip Mumbai because of the distance issue and the fact that both Delhi and Mumbai are big, busy cities. I definitely think that it makes more sense to do Delhi, Agra and Varanasi. However, I have a few concerns about Delhi.

It seems so huge and vast that the more I read about it, the more confused that I am. Considering that I'll travel from South America and I'll arrive at Delhi at around midnight, I know that I won't be able to take advantage of the very first day because of jetlag and tiredness. Two nights really mean one day so how has been your experience when visiting Delhi? What should I visit first? How should I split the time? What means of transportation do you guys recommend to use to move from one place to another?

From what I've read and what you guys have said, 1 night is enough in Agra and 3 nights are enough in Varanasi. Since I'm also becoming interested in visiting Fatehpur Sikri, should I add an extra night in Agra and make it 2 nights?

Like I said, I'm very confused concerning Delhi when it comes to splitting the time and visiting it. I think I'm way more clear concerning Agra and Varanasi.

Orlando.

Orlando - maybe you'll find my TR for India helpful - see http://www.wilhelmswords.com/asia2001/index.html - I wasn't particularly fond of Delhi, but I did find a fair amount to do. You might also check into http://delhibedandbreakfast.com/index.php - I haven't stayed there, but the reports are good and it sounds like a great intro to India.

THE ONLY WAY TO MAKE ANY sense out of delhi, imo, is to have a driver for the day....its very cheap really....the place you stay may help you get someone or use a taxi...bargain for a day...read here on reports how much it should cost...maybe $30+ a day....

as i told you i had the driver in an suv for about 11 days and it was under $500. i used castle and king agency....google them...

delhi is so large and hard to get around in you need a driver really...

there is new delhi and old delhi---spend 1/2 day in each but move fast...get a good guide book to help you....read people's trip reports here...

FS is something to see....about 2 hours is good enough....so staying an extra day in agra would work well for that....taj in the morning and FS in the afternoon, and back to taj at nite or visa versa