You'll need a driver no matter what. WHether to use a guide is up to you.

If your young and have lots of energy one can rent a bicycle and now even an electric one. This is becoming quite a popular way for visiting the main temples as the roads are paved between them and the distances are not that great.

I would definitely recommend Ponheary or her nephew Dara. They were wonderful, and so knowledgeable.

Thanks

I'll get onto it.

I'll add a recommendation for John Teng. We hired him plus a driver for 3 days, and he was wonderful. He really worked with us to create a perfect itinerary and was very in tune with our energy level during the tour. He's also great to talk to and made little things very easy for us, e.g. airport pickup, hotel reservation/check in, shopping. I recommend you ask him to take you to visit school kids in Tonle Sap.