Craig and Jeane Sri Lanka Trip Report 2008
Mar 3rd, 2008, 02:00 AM
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Craig and Jeane Sri Lanka Trip Report 2008
By way of introduction, we are a couple in our early 50’s based outside of Hartford, Connecticut. We have been traveling to Asia and posting on this forum since the year 2000. Typically we travel once a year for about 2-1/2 weeks. Our first trip took us to Thailand. Since then, we have used Bangkok as a base to visit Bali, India, Cambodia, Laos, and Myanmar. In some years we have simply passed through Bangkok on our way to our next destination. In others we spent up to 8 days there.
When we first started traveling to Asia, we were going in the summer around the US Independence day to avoid conflicts with our respective careers – Jeane is a dentist, I am a Financial Advisor. While considering a visit to India in 2005, we concluded that we would only want to be there when the weather was pleasant – during the winter months. As it happened, we found this is also a good time to visit other Asian destinations. So now we take our trips in February around the US Presidents’ Day.
A couple of years ago my perception of Sri Lanka was that of a desperately poor island with absolutely nothing going for it, a complete lack of infrastructure and no upscale accommodation. Nothing could have been further from the truth. At that time I didn’t even know where the country was located.
After last year’s amazing visit to Myanmar it was tough to decide where to go next. I’m not really sure how we actually decided to do Sri Lanka but it was probably that it was reachable from Bangkok and it seemed like it would be different from any place else we have visited. There more I researched it, the more intrigued I became. Last April we redeemed our flyer miles using United’s Star Alliance relationships for the round trip.
Our journey starts at JFK as it has since 2006 when Thai Airways commenced flying directly from New York to Bangkok. The flight departs at 11:30 AM from the spacious and modern Terminal 4. The mid-day departure allows us to drive down from Connecticut early in the morning. We had prepaid valet parking so our arrival at the airport was trouble-free. We were quite early this year, checking in 2-1/2 hours prior to departure. We checked 3 big bags (one empty) to Bangkok and carried on 2 “rollies” and 2 smaller packs. In previous years we were sent to the Swiss Air business class lounge but are pleasantly surprised to see that Thai has switched to the “Oasis” Lounge which is much nicer.
The flight takes off pretty much on time. Jeane and I pass the 17 hours with the usual eating, sleeping, reading, VOD and for me, listening to music with the I-pod feature on my I-phone. We arrive on time in Bangkok at about 5 PM. In previous years there was a separate line for business class passengers at immigration but this year it seemed there was none – it was quite a wait to get through as we ended up in a very slow line.
Our luggage was waiting for us when we reached the carousel and we headed to the terminal lobby where we were met by the AAC Limo rep. We had a great driver who managed to bypass a long line of rush hour traffic by leaving the highway and taking side roads. We still had to pay the two tolls but it only took us a half hour to get to the Shangri-La.
When we first started traveling to Asia, we were going in the summer around the US Independence day to avoid conflicts with our respective careers – Jeane is a dentist, I am a Financial Advisor. While considering a visit to India in 2005, we concluded that we would only want to be there when the weather was pleasant – during the winter months. As it happened, we found this is also a good time to visit other Asian destinations. So now we take our trips in February around the US Presidents’ Day.
A couple of years ago my perception of Sri Lanka was that of a desperately poor island with absolutely nothing going for it, a complete lack of infrastructure and no upscale accommodation. Nothing could have been further from the truth. At that time I didn’t even know where the country was located.
After last year’s amazing visit to Myanmar it was tough to decide where to go next. I’m not really sure how we actually decided to do Sri Lanka but it was probably that it was reachable from Bangkok and it seemed like it would be different from any place else we have visited. There more I researched it, the more intrigued I became. Last April we redeemed our flyer miles using United’s Star Alliance relationships for the round trip.
Our journey starts at JFK as it has since 2006 when Thai Airways commenced flying directly from New York to Bangkok. The flight departs at 11:30 AM from the spacious and modern Terminal 4. The mid-day departure allows us to drive down from Connecticut early in the morning. We had prepaid valet parking so our arrival at the airport was trouble-free. We were quite early this year, checking in 2-1/2 hours prior to departure. We checked 3 big bags (one empty) to Bangkok and carried on 2 “rollies” and 2 smaller packs. In previous years we were sent to the Swiss Air business class lounge but are pleasantly surprised to see that Thai has switched to the “Oasis” Lounge which is much nicer.
The flight takes off pretty much on time. Jeane and I pass the 17 hours with the usual eating, sleeping, reading, VOD and for me, listening to music with the I-pod feature on my I-phone. We arrive on time in Bangkok at about 5 PM. In previous years there was a separate line for business class passengers at immigration but this year it seemed there was none – it was quite a wait to get through as we ended up in a very slow line.
Our luggage was waiting for us when we reached the carousel and we headed to the terminal lobby where we were met by the AAC Limo rep. We had a great driver who managed to bypass a long line of rush hour traffic by leaving the highway and taking side roads. We still had to pay the two tolls but it only took us a half hour to get to the Shangri-La.
Mar 3rd, 2008, 12:51 PM
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The AAC Limo driver dropped us off at the Krungthep Wing of the Shangri-La where we were met with a welcome drink and escorted to our spacious Deluxe Room for check-in. We decided to forego showers for the time being in order to take advantage of the free cocktails and canapés which were only available in the lounge until 7 PM. The Krungthep Wing lounge is a beautiful space befitting a very grand hotel and we enjoyed our small snacks with white wine for me and fruit juice for Jeane.
After our “dinner” we checked out the pools, restaurants and the hotel arcade. The Thai restaurant overlooking the river seemed like a really nice setting for a meal so perhaps some day when we are hungry we will check it out. Jeane saw some things she liked in the arcade but did not buy. We returned to the room for showers. I took mine first since I’m pretty quick. I was just settling in on the sofa with my book when I heard explosions in the distance. I went out on our deck (we were a few stories up) and my suspicions were confirmed – fireworks! So I called for Jeane and said come, let’s watch. There was a barge in front of the Penn that was shooting them off – a short but spectacular display – not really allowing for us to set up for photography, just a spontaneous, special moment and a great welcome to Asia.
Shortly thereafter we crashed for a few hours. We awoke very early and were the first ones at breakfast – I think it starts at 6 AM. It was still dark out when we got to the lounge – I think I did some free internet even before it opened. Breakfast was good but not great – the buffet in the main part of the hotel is said to be fantastic but we didn’t want to deal with that. We were also inside and while we could see all of the river activity, nothing compares to the Penn’s excellent buffet breakfast, outside. Unless we are really in a hurry, we will return to the Penn next time just for this.
I returned for the room and just felt dead, jet lagged. I lay down for a while to recover. At about 9:00, I called SJ International (jewelers) for Jeane – they answered and said that they would send someone over shortly. I think they arrived around 9:30 so she was there a little before they officially opened at 10. Meanwhile, I was waiting to hop on the sky train to Rajawongse which opens at 10:30. I left at 9:45 – the sky train is right there next to the Krungthep Wing. Of course, I was early and had to spend some time perusing the offerings at Asia Books on Sukhumvit also near the Nana sky train station.
Right at 10:30 I arrived at Rajawongse. There were already customers in the shop. Victor greeted me by name and I tried on the two suits that were ready for me. They fit perfectly. In the meantime, I was sharing the one dressing room with 2 other customers – a bit awkward – perhaps its time to expand to a new location, guys. Anyway, I was happy that I could leave with my new suits and 2 complimentary ties and return to the Shang.
When I got back, Jeane had not returned yet. I found out later that she had beat me back even after purchasing a black onyx pendant (with diamonds), black onyx earrings (with diamonds) and a white gold omega necklace. Jeane sends her thanks, Kathie! Jeane was back in the arcade with an eye on some Indian pillow coverings – no great bargain in Bangkok but something she wanted. Meanwhile, I was sitting on the deck outside reading a book. The weather was fairly warm but the humidity was not overbearing as it usually is in Bangkok. When Jeane came back, I suggested we take a nap as the jet lag was just killing me. We slept for 2 or 3 hours and felt rejuvenated, ready to take on the next leg of our trip.
After our “dinner” we checked out the pools, restaurants and the hotel arcade. The Thai restaurant overlooking the river seemed like a really nice setting for a meal so perhaps some day when we are hungry we will check it out. Jeane saw some things she liked in the arcade but did not buy. We returned to the room for showers. I took mine first since I’m pretty quick. I was just settling in on the sofa with my book when I heard explosions in the distance. I went out on our deck (we were a few stories up) and my suspicions were confirmed – fireworks! So I called for Jeane and said come, let’s watch. There was a barge in front of the Penn that was shooting them off – a short but spectacular display – not really allowing for us to set up for photography, just a spontaneous, special moment and a great welcome to Asia.
Shortly thereafter we crashed for a few hours. We awoke very early and were the first ones at breakfast – I think it starts at 6 AM. It was still dark out when we got to the lounge – I think I did some free internet even before it opened. Breakfast was good but not great – the buffet in the main part of the hotel is said to be fantastic but we didn’t want to deal with that. We were also inside and while we could see all of the river activity, nothing compares to the Penn’s excellent buffet breakfast, outside. Unless we are really in a hurry, we will return to the Penn next time just for this.
I returned for the room and just felt dead, jet lagged. I lay down for a while to recover. At about 9:00, I called SJ International (jewelers) for Jeane – they answered and said that they would send someone over shortly. I think they arrived around 9:30 so she was there a little before they officially opened at 10. Meanwhile, I was waiting to hop on the sky train to Rajawongse which opens at 10:30. I left at 9:45 – the sky train is right there next to the Krungthep Wing. Of course, I was early and had to spend some time perusing the offerings at Asia Books on Sukhumvit also near the Nana sky train station.
Right at 10:30 I arrived at Rajawongse. There were already customers in the shop. Victor greeted me by name and I tried on the two suits that were ready for me. They fit perfectly. In the meantime, I was sharing the one dressing room with 2 other customers – a bit awkward – perhaps its time to expand to a new location, guys. Anyway, I was happy that I could leave with my new suits and 2 complimentary ties and return to the Shang.
When I got back, Jeane had not returned yet. I found out later that she had beat me back even after purchasing a black onyx pendant (with diamonds), black onyx earrings (with diamonds) and a white gold omega necklace. Jeane sends her thanks, Kathie! Jeane was back in the arcade with an eye on some Indian pillow coverings – no great bargain in Bangkok but something she wanted. Meanwhile, I was sitting on the deck outside reading a book. The weather was fairly warm but the humidity was not overbearing as it usually is in Bangkok. When Jeane came back, I suggested we take a nap as the jet lag was just killing me. We slept for 2 or 3 hours and felt rejuvenated, ready to take on the next leg of our trip.
Mar 3rd, 2008, 01:04 PM
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No napping. You are required to exhaust yourselves for our amusement.
I note that in your introductory remarks, you elected to not mention your greatest shame, i.e., your baseball affiliation. Probably, for the best. Your fatigue reminds me of Mussina in September.
I note that in your introductory remarks, you elected to not mention your greatest shame, i.e., your baseball affiliation. Probably, for the best. Your fatigue reminds me of Mussina in September.
Mar 3rd, 2008, 02:29 PM
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Panda, In contrast to my extreme jet lag at the beginning of our trip, I am amazed that I wasn't falling asleep at noon today. However, many other duties call, including catching up on spring training news from Tampa where the 2008 world champions are preparing to beat up on their most hated adversary from New England. Mussina is a bit rusty but the Yanks have 3 young starters in Kennedy, Chamberlain and Hughes + the ever reliable Pettitte and Wang that will challenge lesser teams like the one you root for. Meanwhile, Schilling is out, Buckholz is in? We'll see...
Mar 3rd, 2008, 02:56 PM
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Note to readers-this report is likely to contain untold inaccuracies. The last post by the OP included a gross misstatement. everyone knows that Chamberlain is not yet a young "starter", unless starting the eighth inning qualifies one as a starter. It does not bode well for the Asia "facts" to follow. Of course, the OP may be blinded by love concerning his second-rate baseball team. The Asia "facts" are likely to be more accurate.
Mar 3rd, 2008, 03:54 PM
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The great Panda should realize that Chamberlain is being groomed to become a starter in spite of his very successful relief appearances last season. Now back to the "meat":
AAC picked us up at 4 PM for our 6:30 PM flight on Singapore Airlines. We had never flown on Singapore but were pleased that it lived up to its reputation. They even supplied me with a 110v AC adapter so I could use the data port for my I-phone/pod. The business class dinner and drinks were excellent.
We arrived on time at Singapore Airport. The Ambassador Transit Hotel where we had phoned in a reservation was nearby. I credit flyertalk.com with cluing me in on the fact that they don’t answer e-mails and I am glad that I could pick up the phone and reserve. We arrived at 9 PM Singapore time and were due to leave at 7 AM so that didn’t leave much time to do anything else but stay there and sleep. At this point I should mention that it was not our original intent to have a long layover at SIN. However, due to nighttime shootings at the Columbo airport, Singapore Airlines decided to move its evening flight to the morning – hence a much longer connection and one less night spent in Sri Lanka. I do not recommend the Transit Hotel for anything other than a short stay.
The transit hotel was very basic – small and functional but with a queen-sized bed. Somehow we managed a decent night’s sleep. We chose to have coffee the next day at the Singapore biz lounge, a wise decision even though it was located at the farthest end of the terminal from our gate. There was no data port on the Singapore – Colombo flight, an older plane but the breakfast was good. The flight approached from the east and the views of the tea country mountains and lakes were phenomenal before we landed at Colombo airport.
Immigration was a breeze. Our plane was not at all full but we were the first off anyway. Between Immigration and baggage claim there is a huge duty free shop that you must walk through. That was no problem as I needed to pick up some provisions for our 12 night stay. Prices for wine and spirits were excellent. Our luggage arrived promptly and we were the first ones out. As we headed toward the exit we were greeted by both our tour director and a representative from Boutique Sri Lanka.
At this point, an explanation is required. The representative from BSL came to give us a refund in rupees since the safari portion of our trip had been cancelled due to concerns about safety in the game parks. I had applied most of the difference to alternate lodging but there was money left over. BSL was there to give us the difference. Also, I did not use BSL to arrange a driver as I felt I could do better on my own. The driver I arranged, Rammuni Silva was recommended by David Stockwell, a “Destination Expert” on tripadvisor.com. As it turned out, Rammuni was an aspiring tour director (which I knew in advance) and had brought along a car and driver (which I did not know he was going to do). In any case, it did not cost us any more with this arrangement and the van we had was huge - limousine type room to stretch our legs and tons of room behind us for the luggage.
We set off for the Kandalama Hotel in Dambulla – it was a long ride with a lunch break for the driver while we enjoyed a cool fruit drink. Upon arrival we were quite tired and decided that exploring the Kandalama and taking an afternoon nap were all we could handle. We arranged for Rammuni and driver to come for us the next morning to start our tour. At the Kandalama we were on the 4th (next to highest) floor with great views of the Sigiriya Rock (we were in the Sigiriya Wing) and good views of the Kandalama Reservoir. The room was very spacious as was the bath. A/C was adequate but we needed the ceiling fan at night as well to be comfortable. We enjoyed the buffet dinner that night and every night we were there. There were different kinds of curry each night as well as a selection of fresh cooked grilled items to the rear outside of the restaurant. The vegetable offerings and deserts were also quite tasty. There was a limited beer and wine selection available at extra cost. Beers all over Sri Lanka are served in 1 pint + bottles so you don’t go thirsty. Brands available almost everywhere are Lion, 3 Coins and Carlsberg – none are particularly inspiring but better than wine with the almost always spicy food.
AAC picked us up at 4 PM for our 6:30 PM flight on Singapore Airlines. We had never flown on Singapore but were pleased that it lived up to its reputation. They even supplied me with a 110v AC adapter so I could use the data port for my I-phone/pod. The business class dinner and drinks were excellent.
We arrived on time at Singapore Airport. The Ambassador Transit Hotel where we had phoned in a reservation was nearby. I credit flyertalk.com with cluing me in on the fact that they don’t answer e-mails and I am glad that I could pick up the phone and reserve. We arrived at 9 PM Singapore time and were due to leave at 7 AM so that didn’t leave much time to do anything else but stay there and sleep. At this point I should mention that it was not our original intent to have a long layover at SIN. However, due to nighttime shootings at the Columbo airport, Singapore Airlines decided to move its evening flight to the morning – hence a much longer connection and one less night spent in Sri Lanka. I do not recommend the Transit Hotel for anything other than a short stay.
The transit hotel was very basic – small and functional but with a queen-sized bed. Somehow we managed a decent night’s sleep. We chose to have coffee the next day at the Singapore biz lounge, a wise decision even though it was located at the farthest end of the terminal from our gate. There was no data port on the Singapore – Colombo flight, an older plane but the breakfast was good. The flight approached from the east and the views of the tea country mountains and lakes were phenomenal before we landed at Colombo airport.
Immigration was a breeze. Our plane was not at all full but we were the first off anyway. Between Immigration and baggage claim there is a huge duty free shop that you must walk through. That was no problem as I needed to pick up some provisions for our 12 night stay. Prices for wine and spirits were excellent. Our luggage arrived promptly and we were the first ones out. As we headed toward the exit we were greeted by both our tour director and a representative from Boutique Sri Lanka.
At this point, an explanation is required. The representative from BSL came to give us a refund in rupees since the safari portion of our trip had been cancelled due to concerns about safety in the game parks. I had applied most of the difference to alternate lodging but there was money left over. BSL was there to give us the difference. Also, I did not use BSL to arrange a driver as I felt I could do better on my own. The driver I arranged, Rammuni Silva was recommended by David Stockwell, a “Destination Expert” on tripadvisor.com. As it turned out, Rammuni was an aspiring tour director (which I knew in advance) and had brought along a car and driver (which I did not know he was going to do). In any case, it did not cost us any more with this arrangement and the van we had was huge - limousine type room to stretch our legs and tons of room behind us for the luggage.
We set off for the Kandalama Hotel in Dambulla – it was a long ride with a lunch break for the driver while we enjoyed a cool fruit drink. Upon arrival we were quite tired and decided that exploring the Kandalama and taking an afternoon nap were all we could handle. We arranged for Rammuni and driver to come for us the next morning to start our tour. At the Kandalama we were on the 4th (next to highest) floor with great views of the Sigiriya Rock (we were in the Sigiriya Wing) and good views of the Kandalama Reservoir. The room was very spacious as was the bath. A/C was adequate but we needed the ceiling fan at night as well to be comfortable. We enjoyed the buffet dinner that night and every night we were there. There were different kinds of curry each night as well as a selection of fresh cooked grilled items to the rear outside of the restaurant. The vegetable offerings and deserts were also quite tasty. There was a limited beer and wine selection available at extra cost. Beers all over Sri Lanka are served in 1 pint + bottles so you don’t go thirsty. Brands available almost everywhere are Lion, 3 Coins and Carlsberg – none are particularly inspiring but better than wine with the almost always spicy food.
Mar 3rd, 2008, 05:07 PM
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Craig, good start. I'm hooked. I just tried to look up Rammuni Silva on Trip Advisor and couldn't access his details. If you think he was really good, can you supply his email address or other contact info. Thanks. Tell Jeane I think her shopping efficiency at SJ is admirable.
Mar 3rd, 2008, 06:10 PM
#19
Hi Craig...I saw your title this morning, but held off reading it till I had time to sit, savor and be jealous!!
Glad Jeane had a chance to pick up some baubles at SJ and you got teh nice suits. I'm sure you two will look even better than ever at the next GTG!
Loking forward to lots of details,
Lucy
Glad Jeane had a chance to pick up some baubles at SJ and you got teh nice suits. I'm sure you two will look even better than ever at the next GTG!
Loking forward to lots of details,
Lucy
