Cori and John's Jan. Thailand Trip Report
Mar 10th, 2006, 05:34 AM
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So did you make it to the Thai wedding in the village around the bend? We were involved in a Thai wedding (son being one of the "reps" of the groom) and it was really interesting.
Glad you enjoyed Mae Hong Son so much. It is on my list for the future. The scenery sounds beautiful, though hard to traverse.
Carol
Glad you enjoyed Mae Hong Son so much. It is on my list for the future. The scenery sounds beautiful, though hard to traverse.
Carol
Mar 10th, 2006, 10:20 AM
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Day 6: January 6th
We woke up to a heavy mist filling the terraces of rice. It felt other-worldly. Breakfast is included in the price of the room. It is sort of a buffet, with the option of how you want your eggs prepared. I basically ate fried eggs, toast and pineapple for the 3 days we were there. By the way we booked the resort on Thailandhotels.net for $32 US a night for a suite.
Ball was there right on time. We began the long, windy, bumpy hour-long drive into the mountains to the Ban Huai Hee tribe. We stopped several times to take in the magnificent view. The entire valley was covered with mist.
Upon our arrival to the village which is built into the steep, vegetated walls of the mountains, with the dirt road splitting it in half, we were introduced to the women who were weaving in the center of town. We watched them weave and admired a new addition to their tribe (a baby boy) who was passed from one smiling woman to the next. The women are beautiful, their eyes sparkle and their smiles are warm and genuine.
Ball went to inquire about the wedding and when he returned he learned that there was confusion and that the wedding was tomorrow. So the town was buzzing with activities to prepare. It seems like at every 3rd hut a group of men and women were preparing food for the celebration. Later in the day we heard the screams of two pigs being slaughtered.
We spent several hours wondering around, watching, asking questions and taking in the beauty of it all. It is my understanding that the proceeds from our fees are split b/t the guide (who was very good friends with the tribes people), the village and the family that cooked us lunch. Each time there are tourists the people take turns hosting by preparing a meal. The money they earn for that usually goes to supplies for children (clothes, books, etc). The money that goes to the village is used to buy extra rice or dried fish. Although they are very self-sufficient, they aren’t able to grow and harvest enough rice for the entire year, so they have to supplement.
We met 3 students from the US who had been in Thailand on an international study program based out of Chiang Mai. We walked up to the church to see what preparations had been made as we talked together. They were studying social, political and economic systems surrounding sustainable food production. They were integrated into the day-to-day life of living and working in a traditional village. The students learn about the theory and practice of agroecology and sustainability.
One of the students was doing soil research, the other learning to weave and the only male was teaching English and helping prepare the next years rice fields (slash/burn which we talked in depth about). Each student lived in a hut with a family, their “mom”. They had only been there 3 days when we arrived, but were on the last few months of their study. A very interesting program (Kalamazoo is the college they attended back in the US).
After wandering around the school, looking at the lesson books and observing the class we had lunch.
Fabulous lunch of melon soup, rice, spicy pork and a spicy chicken dish. One of our top N.Thailand meals. We wanted our host to eat with us, but she refused, she just watched us devour her meal. Her and Ball spoke at length about a new shoulder bag she was going to make him. She showed us some of her work. As a gift we brought postcards of Montana and some pewter handheld mirrors with a western motif, just a thank you gesture. So through Ball we talked about the mountains we lived in and the weather.
After lunch smelling like the fire our lunch was made on, we were to hike Doi Pui. Ball told us to go ahead with the son of our host (forgot his name), he was 15 and very shy. We started trekking up through dense bamboo, teak, unknown vines. After 10 mins of a very, very brisk pace we stopped, breathless and wondering where ball was. We mimicked and asked the boy “Ball?” and he just motioned us on. This happened a few more times, but finally we figured we misunderstood Ball and only this boy was taking us.
Let me say that John and I are pretty fit, but this pace was insane. Following the boy ˝ our age, who has lived here in the shadow of this mountain all his life was exhausting. We were literally pouring sweat. I am laughing at it now. Oh my god it was crazy.
At the top, we were out of water, panting and still unsure about where Ball was. The view was impressive. Burma just over the valley, looking over dozens of small tribes like the one we visited. After a rest, some photos we were lead down a different path that we nearly ran down to keep up. About an hour later we were back and the village and still no Ball.
No Ball for about 30mins and the boy was long gone hanging out with friends. While we were hiking dozens of motorbikes had arrived with 2-4 people on them, so the town was bustling with greetings and laughter. We found our way over to the American students and asked if they had seen our guide. They said no and asked around.
We just found shade, got some water and watched the student finish their day in school.
Finally, we heard the rumbles of his Isuzu. Where were you we all exclaimed to each other. He looked beat. “Did you guys run up the hill, boy you hike fast…I wanted to show you some things”. We explained how the boy kept urging us on and our confusion. We laughed heartily and joked about it the next days as we took to each other and he guided us around.
By the way Ball (nickname b/c while his mom was pregnant she was watching football and so he became Ball) is an artist and just started renting a painting studio in town. His father, who is now passed was one of the first tour operators in Mae Hong Son. His girlfriend is a teacher. Ball was a great guide funny, amazing English (he is learning Spanish) and a wealth of knowledge. I highly recommend him and have his info for anyone going to the area.
After our goodbyes we headed back down to town. There was one other group from Fern Resort that were doing an overnight at the village. I wish we would have, but that is for next time. They loved it, it was a trip highlight.
Ball told us about the night market on the lake in Mae Hong Son and offered to join us. The market is primarily food and really for locals. There is an area where are tribal crafts for sale. Ball showed us his favorite food stands and ordered us up food: lemongrass chicken, 2 types sticky rice, rice rolls, pork soup x 2, 4 beers. All for less than 6 dollars. AMAZING. We would return tomorrow. Sitting on the lake under the setting sun and framed by Wats and Mountains eating delicious Thai food with interesting company. For desert we had cream puffs and sticky rice with honey and sesame seeds.
After our leisurely dinner Ball headed home to his dogs and girlfriend. We checked email and caught the Fern shuttle home.
GREAT GREAT DAY
Oh ya, we stopped at a smaller tribe, Ban Nam Hoo. Met an 85+ year old tribesman and heard his stories. I bought some weavings and helped them hull (forgot the correct term) their rice.
We woke up to a heavy mist filling the terraces of rice. It felt other-worldly. Breakfast is included in the price of the room. It is sort of a buffet, with the option of how you want your eggs prepared. I basically ate fried eggs, toast and pineapple for the 3 days we were there. By the way we booked the resort on Thailandhotels.net for $32 US a night for a suite.
Ball was there right on time. We began the long, windy, bumpy hour-long drive into the mountains to the Ban Huai Hee tribe. We stopped several times to take in the magnificent view. The entire valley was covered with mist.
Upon our arrival to the village which is built into the steep, vegetated walls of the mountains, with the dirt road splitting it in half, we were introduced to the women who were weaving in the center of town. We watched them weave and admired a new addition to their tribe (a baby boy) who was passed from one smiling woman to the next. The women are beautiful, their eyes sparkle and their smiles are warm and genuine.
Ball went to inquire about the wedding and when he returned he learned that there was confusion and that the wedding was tomorrow. So the town was buzzing with activities to prepare. It seems like at every 3rd hut a group of men and women were preparing food for the celebration. Later in the day we heard the screams of two pigs being slaughtered.
We spent several hours wondering around, watching, asking questions and taking in the beauty of it all. It is my understanding that the proceeds from our fees are split b/t the guide (who was very good friends with the tribes people), the village and the family that cooked us lunch. Each time there are tourists the people take turns hosting by preparing a meal. The money they earn for that usually goes to supplies for children (clothes, books, etc). The money that goes to the village is used to buy extra rice or dried fish. Although they are very self-sufficient, they aren’t able to grow and harvest enough rice for the entire year, so they have to supplement.
We met 3 students from the US who had been in Thailand on an international study program based out of Chiang Mai. We walked up to the church to see what preparations had been made as we talked together. They were studying social, political and economic systems surrounding sustainable food production. They were integrated into the day-to-day life of living and working in a traditional village. The students learn about the theory and practice of agroecology and sustainability.
One of the students was doing soil research, the other learning to weave and the only male was teaching English and helping prepare the next years rice fields (slash/burn which we talked in depth about). Each student lived in a hut with a family, their “mom”. They had only been there 3 days when we arrived, but were on the last few months of their study. A very interesting program (Kalamazoo is the college they attended back in the US).
After wandering around the school, looking at the lesson books and observing the class we had lunch.
Fabulous lunch of melon soup, rice, spicy pork and a spicy chicken dish. One of our top N.Thailand meals. We wanted our host to eat with us, but she refused, she just watched us devour her meal. Her and Ball spoke at length about a new shoulder bag she was going to make him. She showed us some of her work. As a gift we brought postcards of Montana and some pewter handheld mirrors with a western motif, just a thank you gesture. So through Ball we talked about the mountains we lived in and the weather.
After lunch smelling like the fire our lunch was made on, we were to hike Doi Pui. Ball told us to go ahead with the son of our host (forgot his name), he was 15 and very shy. We started trekking up through dense bamboo, teak, unknown vines. After 10 mins of a very, very brisk pace we stopped, breathless and wondering where ball was. We mimicked and asked the boy “Ball?” and he just motioned us on. This happened a few more times, but finally we figured we misunderstood Ball and only this boy was taking us.
Let me say that John and I are pretty fit, but this pace was insane. Following the boy ˝ our age, who has lived here in the shadow of this mountain all his life was exhausting. We were literally pouring sweat. I am laughing at it now. Oh my god it was crazy.
At the top, we were out of water, panting and still unsure about where Ball was. The view was impressive. Burma just over the valley, looking over dozens of small tribes like the one we visited. After a rest, some photos we were lead down a different path that we nearly ran down to keep up. About an hour later we were back and the village and still no Ball.
No Ball for about 30mins and the boy was long gone hanging out with friends. While we were hiking dozens of motorbikes had arrived with 2-4 people on them, so the town was bustling with greetings and laughter. We found our way over to the American students and asked if they had seen our guide. They said no and asked around.
We just found shade, got some water and watched the student finish their day in school.
Finally, we heard the rumbles of his Isuzu. Where were you we all exclaimed to each other. He looked beat. “Did you guys run up the hill, boy you hike fast…I wanted to show you some things”. We explained how the boy kept urging us on and our confusion. We laughed heartily and joked about it the next days as we took to each other and he guided us around.
By the way Ball (nickname b/c while his mom was pregnant she was watching football and so he became Ball) is an artist and just started renting a painting studio in town. His father, who is now passed was one of the first tour operators in Mae Hong Son. His girlfriend is a teacher. Ball was a great guide funny, amazing English (he is learning Spanish) and a wealth of knowledge. I highly recommend him and have his info for anyone going to the area.
After our goodbyes we headed back down to town. There was one other group from Fern Resort that were doing an overnight at the village. I wish we would have, but that is for next time. They loved it, it was a trip highlight.
Ball told us about the night market on the lake in Mae Hong Son and offered to join us. The market is primarily food and really for locals. There is an area where are tribal crafts for sale. Ball showed us his favorite food stands and ordered us up food: lemongrass chicken, 2 types sticky rice, rice rolls, pork soup x 2, 4 beers. All for less than 6 dollars. AMAZING. We would return tomorrow. Sitting on the lake under the setting sun and framed by Wats and Mountains eating delicious Thai food with interesting company. For desert we had cream puffs and sticky rice with honey and sesame seeds.
After our leisurely dinner Ball headed home to his dogs and girlfriend. We checked email and caught the Fern shuttle home.
GREAT GREAT DAY
Oh ya, we stopped at a smaller tribe, Ban Nam Hoo. Met an 85+ year old tribesman and heard his stories. I bought some weavings and helped them hull (forgot the correct term) their rice.
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Rumrita1
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