Cicerone

I posted a restaurant list in 2006 under
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...7&tid=34892518. While I still think that list is representative of my favourites, a poster has recently asked me to update it. I have added some new restaurants below. Favourites from my old list continue to be Ingredients, M at the Fringe, Bistro Manchu, and Pearl on the Peak. I have grown to really like Lumiere/Cuisine Cuisine and Tuscany by H.

Since 2006, the Star Street area of Wan Chai has really come into its own, you could literally just walk into almost any restaurant there now and have a good meal, there are new ones opening all the time, and Ingredients has relocated there along with a branch of the really terrific Chez Patrick. The nearby Yin Yang would also be a good choice (see below). If you want to make a trip to the Sai Kung area of the New Territories for boating or hiking or to see one of the “walled villages”, then by all means have a meal at One Thirty One, well worth the trip. But there are plenty of places in town.

I am also encouraging everyone to stop for a drink or a meal The Pawn or the OVOlogue gallery and restaurant at 62-66 Johnston Road when strolling the wonderful street markets in Wan Chai (which is something that should be done in any event IMO on a trip to Hong Kong). You can take in the colourful street life from the balconies of The Pawn and rest your feet from the walking (pub food is on offer, fish and chips are a specialty). While there are no views from the Ovologue, the food is quite good, and the décor really lovely (they have dim sum at lunch). The building is one of the few remaining colonial structures in Wan Chai that has been spared from the wrecker’s ball and has been restored (to an almost ersatz-Anglo Chinese colonial level achieved generally only in Singapore in my experience), and is a good example of how an existing building can be retained and restored rather than just torn down and replaced with a high-rise mall (like they did next door). If this enterprise is successful, it may encourage other developers to do the same (I have fears for the art deco vegetable market at the end of Wan Chai Road). So stop by and spend some money at either place if you can…..http://www.thepawn.com.hk/ and http://www.ovologue.com.hk/

From my 2006 list, the Ritz-Carlton hotel has closed which means that the good Shanghianese restaurant is no more and the very good Italian restaurant, Toscana, is also closed. The latter will reopen on Kowloon side sometime in 2010 when the new hotel opens on the 101st floor or so of the ICC tower. They will have quite the view. Other restaurants from my 2006 list which are now closed include the Secret Pantry, and Veda. Several have relocated, including the first, and very good, private kitchen in Hong Kong, Xi Yian, which has moved to another location in Wan Chai. They have also opened a “sweets” shop in Star Street where you can sample some of their menu items (esp. desserts), and a more mass market restaurant in the ICC Mall in Kowloon. I don’t believe that their Wan Chai restaurant is technically a “private kitchen” any longer, but still a good meal, see their website for their new location and all their new outlets, http://www.xiyan.com.hk/hk/. Margaret Xu Yuan, owner of probably the most secretive private kitchen in Hong Kong (Cuisine X), has also opened a new restaurant in Wan Chai called Yin Yang see below for details. For what it is worth, Bo Innovation has also relocated to Wan Chai, I can’t say I will be eating there, but again and again this place gets rave reviews, see their website for their new address on Johnson road, http://www.boinnovation.com/ (next door to The Pawn). Some people believe that this restaurant will receive one or more Michelin stars when the first guide is published for Hong Kong (which is expected to be in 2009 or 2010), so if you want to eat there now and get the bragging rights, then knock yourself out… Right below Bo is a new branch of the quite good and not expensive Le Fauchon brasserie/wine bar which is one of my favs in Soho, this location is a good place for lunch, late afternoon glass of wine or dinner when strolling the markets of Wan Chai (60 Johnston Road tel: 2528 1286).

Some new favourites are below. Most of these have already appeared in responses to other posts, but are now collected in one place. But there are hundreds more out there. So many restaurants, so little time. One thing you might do in Wan Chai is walk east along Wan Chai Road, and see what you can find. Right around Heard Road esp, there are any number of Indian/Pakistani (i.e., Halal) curry restaurants that always smell good to me. You could wander a few blocks in the area around Heard and Wood Road off of Wan Chai Road and see what you find. Please post anything interesting!!

Views – Hong Kong Side

S e v v a Restaurant
25th Floor
Prince’s Building
10 Chater Road
Central
Tel: 2537-1388

This has replaced Joyce Café. It is on top of the Princes’ Building, and has surprisingly excellent views and is a lively place, and would be a good choice for dinner, OR a good place for pre or post dinner drinks. (They apparently also serve afternoon tea, which may also be a good choice, have not been myself.) They have a very nice large out door terrace area with sofas, the indoor dining areas have high ceiling and striking artwork. Main issues they have currently are service issues, as they have only been open a few months and are still working things out on that end, IMO. But overall I think this is a good choice for food, ambience and view. Nice mix of Western and Chinese food. There are two restaurants, a more casual “harbor side” restaurant and a more expensive “bank side” restaurant, plus a bar and then a pastry/cake shop. I have eaten at both restaurants, and found both to be good, I think the harbour side is very nice for lunch, especially. I can’t find a website for some reason.

Watermark
Star Ferry, Central Pier 7
Tel: 2167-7251
http://www.igors.com/

In the Star Ferry building right down on the water, so excellent views. Primarily a steak house, they have other options too. I would not put this up with the really expensive view restaurants like Felix, but it has a nice ambience. Other than the Boathouse I am not crazy about Igor group as a restaurateur, but I was pleasantly surprised by this place. Lunch is quite nice because of the huge windows. Not sure they do brunch, but would be good if they did. Nice place for a late dessert and coffee if they do that too, due to the views. Could also be quite nice for sunset.

Simpatico
Shop 19, First Floor
Peak Galleria
118 Peak Road
The Peak
Tel: 2849-0001

This restaurant has quite good Italian food and a very nice view from its large terrace, however the view is primarily of the water/mountain views of the south side, there are basically no harbour views on the city side. However, it is very, very pleasant to sit outside on a nice day, and parts of the back of the terrace are covered and are a good opportunity to get out of the sun on a hot day (or enjoy a rainy one). (There are umbrellas for other parts of this terrace; however the terrace overlooking the plaza may be a bit noisy due to the outdoor TV screen which is on the Peak Tram building across the plaza.) Nice modern ambience. I would definitely recco this for lunch or a late snack, not so sure about dinner. They have an extensive menu of caparcio dishes, meat, fish, etc. Good salads. Appetizers in the HK$50-90 range, carpacios at about HK$150, and entrees in the HK$150-200 range.

Views – Kowloon side

Cucina
Marco Polo Hotel
6th Floor
Tel: 2113-0808
http://www.cucinahk.com/

This has a very nice harbour view, serves good Italian food AND Cantonese food as well (some other Chinese as well). They have dim sum.

Pierside
Royal Pacific Hotel & Towers
33 Canton Road
Tel: 2738-2398
http://www.sino-hotels.com/The_Royal...n/default.aspx

This is on the top floor of the hotel, and has a very nice harbour view, although some of the finer views of Central are blocked by higher buildings, but it does have a nice Western harbour view. The menu is Western-Asian fusion, they have some Singaporean dishes like chicken-rice which you rarely see on menus here. They have brunch and this is a nice place for it with good views on a sunny day. The hotel is located north of the Harbour City shopping mall, walkable from the Star Ferry a straight shot down Canton Road (and just past the Marco Polo Hotel mentioned above).

Nobu
Intercontinental Hotel
18 Salisbury Road
Kowloon
852 2721 1211
http://hongkong-ic.dining.intercontinental.com

Sushi restaurant, part of the chain. Neither Nobu nor Spoon have quite the open expansive views of Felix, but still quite nice views, ask to be seated as close to the window areas as possible. Very expensive. If I were going to spend a lot of money for a meal in Hong Kong, I would go to Joel Rubichon personally.

Water Views on Hong Kong Island– Outside the City

Cococabana
Beach Building
Island Road
Deep Water Bay
Tel: 852-2812-2226
http://www.toptables.com.hk/coco

Excellent Mediterranean restaurant in pretty Deep Water Bay, run by a chef who had a Michelin star at his former restaurant in Europe. You have to get over the fact that the restaurant is located on top of the bathroom block for the beach, but once you do, you will love it. Great sea views and food. There is also a much more causal beach restaurant here at the other end of the beach run by the same group, see the website.

Blue Room
Tel: 2809 2583
Big Wave Bay Beach

Very, very casual outdoor dining on the beach, but covered terrace from the sun and rain. Pizza and other western dishes. Open even in winter. Very nice water views. This is a very good place for lunch after walking the Dragon’s Back. Big Wave Bay is a hoot, a 1960's surfer's place, little shacks selling surf boards and bikinis. If you climb up the path going uphill along the cliff edge at the other end of the beach from the restaurant, you will get some excellent water views (it’s a goodish climb but is all stairs so no picking your way through dirt and stones; go to the second pavilion for good views and then back down, you can also do this as part of a longer walk in the area.)

Regional Chinese

Dă Píng Huō (Sichuan)
Lower Ground Floor
Hilltop Plaza
49 Hollywood Road
Tel: 2559-1317

Private kitchen. Set meal about 15 courses (!) for HK$220, they have a limited wine list, you can also bring your own for corkage fee of HK$150. Excellent, spicy, but alternating spicy with mild. At the end of the evening, the cook generally comes out and briefly sings...an interesting and delicious evening. Decor is all white with interesting artwork. Restaurant is hard to find, it is really in an alley off Hollywood Road and Lyndhurst Terrace, look for a Pacific Coffee Company. Open for dinner only.

Shui Hu Ju (Northern Chinese)
68 Peel Street
Tel: 2869-6927
aqua.com.hk

Northern Chinese. Dishes you don't see a lot of places, like Jade (a tuber, sort of cross between celery and okra, is translucent like jade). Food is good. Very nice ambience, sort of rustic chic with concrete floor and some rough wood and then beautiful polished wood and bamboo tables and chairs; the tables are very close together and quite small but they manage somehow. If you have 5 people or more, as for a table upstairs in one of their private rooms. This is part of the Aqua group that operates Hutong but I think the food is better here. Ask for the lychee “wine”. Mid price.

Hakka Ye Ye (Hakka)
2nd Floor
Parekh House
63 Wyndham Street
Central
Tel: 2537-7060
http://www.yeyegroup.com/

This is Hakka food, one of the only places I know of in Hong Kong to have Hakka food, and served in a nice ambience in the Hollywood Road area. (No view.) Hakka means "guest family" and refers to people who are not native indigenous people to Hong Kong, nor are they native Cantonese, although they are in fact ethnically Han Chinese (as with everything in China, it's a complicated history). Food tends to be braised and deep fried and chicken and pork feature in the menu. Not particularly spicy, sweet and sour is a staple. Very nice for a change from Cantonese. Excellent pork belly, stuffed tofu, drunken chicken. The website shows dishes and prices.

Yun Fu (Various regional/Tibet)
43-55 Wyndham Street
2116-8855
aqua.com.hk

This is the newest restaurant by the Aqua group, and may be their best. Really lovely setting, little rooms under ground. One room for drinks and others for dining. Various Chinese dishes with a concentration on Tibetan food. Nice wine list. For what it is worth, my friend’s husband, who is Shanghainese and thinks that Hutong is a joke for tourists, really likes this place. (Personally I think Hutong is a fine experience all in all. Windows on the World was not the best dining in NYC, but overall you were always glad to go there.)

Under Bridge Spicy Crab (Hong Kong Style)
Chinaweal Centre
414 Jaffe Road
Wan Chai
Tel: 2834-6268

Messy but delicious spicy “typhoon shelter” spicy crab and other seafood (also have meat dishes and noodles, etc). This is the more “upscale” restaurant with table cloths and napkins, if you want down and dirty, go to the original restaurant (see below) with the plastic covering on the tables. In any case, good eatin’. The chili crab is about HK$250-350 for a portion that will feed 2 people, other dishes average around HK$60.

Original restaurant: 429 Lockhart Road (tel: 2573-7698). These are literally around the corner from each other. Closest MTR stop is Causeway Bay, Exit Door C onto Lockhart Road, turn left walk about 1.5 blocks to a highway underpass. Walk under the underpass, and turn left, this is Canal Road West and the original outlet is here on the right (address says 429 Lockhart but it is really on Canal Road West). If you want the upscale restaurant, continue down Canal Road West past the original restaurant to the corner, turn right onto Jaffe Road and continue for about 100 yards to 414 which is on your right. (There are also two more outlets at 401/403 and 405/419 Lockhart Road, these would be straight after the underpass in the middle of the next block after Canal Road West.). Not all outlets are open for lunch on all days, so call ahead to check. I believe all are open for dinner. I believe they are open to like 4 am.

Yin Yang
18 Ship Street
Wan Chai
Tel: 2866 0868

This is Margaret Xu Yuan’s new restaurant, in a restored shop house off Queens Road East near the Star Street area. Regional Chinese, depending on what she feels like cooking and what is available that day, many of the vegetables are grown on her organic vegetable farm in the New Territories (which I kind of find humorous given the runoff from neighboring farms and air pollution which the “organic” vegetables have to put up with….not to mention that the farm next door may well be using DDT…but whatever). The food is still very good and it is a nice evening. Good location for strolling the market areas, and there is a tiny but interesting temple in the next block of Queen’s Road East which is worth a visit.. Specialty of the house is yellow earth chicken. It is my understanding that you must be a party of at least 6 to book, and I believe she is booked up at least 2 weeks in advance for weekdays and up to a month for weekends.

Green T. House Hong Kong (Modern Chinese)
No.208 The Arcade
100 Cyberport Road
Tel: 852 2989 6036
http://www.green-t-house.com/hong.html

This is the Hong Kong outlet of the Beijing restaurant. Interesting presentation. Fusion Chinese. The chef worked at Citronelle. Has a separate tea room as well. A little bit of a pretentious atmosphere, but good food. Expensive. Not in any downtown area, but on the way to Aberdeen and Stanley, could be combined with a visit to Aberdeen (where restaurants are to be avoided other than Top Deck of the Jumbo).

Shanghai Garden (Shanghainese)
1/F Hutchison House
10 Harcourt Road
Admiralty
Tel 2524 8181

I have been going here for about a decade and I don’t know why I have not listed it before. This is a place local Hong Kongers take me to a lot. It is very popular for lunch, you definitely need a booking, but for dinner you will find it very quiet. No view, but a nice ambience (sort of in that fancy brightly-lit Chinese-ballroom style with the chandeliers, not sleek modern but perfectly fine). But very very good food, a broad range of dishes, not strictly Shanghainese. Try the XO sauce with the fish. They have dim sum at lunch too. It is in Central, just a block or two from the Mandarin Hotel toward Wan Chai, easily walkable from the Star Ferry or the Central MTR (take Door J3 and it is about a block behind you as you come up the stairs), look for a Starbucks on the ground floor, the restaurant is upstairs. Or take the MTR to Admiralty and follow signs to Hutchison House, IMO going to the Central stop and taking Door J3 is easier although technically a longer walk.

Star Street and non-Chinese reccos are in the next post….

Cicerone

And here is part II...

Star Street Area

This is in Wan Chai, just over the border from Central/Admiralty. It is a block of streets running along Queens Road East from Monmouth Path to St Francis Street. The wonderful Ingredients restaurant is here, which has been a favourite of mine for some years. Address s is 23 Wing Fung Street Tel 2544-5133. There are several restaurants, bars and some art galleries in this neighborhood. Also, the wet markets of Wan Chai are a few blocks away and shut at about 6:30- 7 pm in the evening and you could stroll through those first and then head to Star Street for dinner. Gitone Fine Arts private restaurant is in this neighborhood as well.

To get to Star Street, you can take the subway to Admiralty Station exit Door F, and follow the underground passage to Pacific Place III (you will be underground for some time and will take a long underground passage). You will come up an escalator into the lobby of Pacific Place III which is on Queens Road East. Facing busy Queens Road, turn right and go to the corner intersection, which is Wing Fung Street. Go right up Wing Fung Street and this will take you to Star Street, but any of the streets in this area are part of the “Star Street” area (for example, Ingredients restaurant is located on Wing Fund Street). You can also take a street tram from Central, and alight at Landale Street and walk up to Queens Road and turn right and look for Wing Fung Street, or take a taxi, it is also walkable from Central. It is easily walkable from the bottom terminus of the Peak Tram through Hong Kong Park. If you are staying at the Marriott, the Island Shangrai-La or the Conrad, it is about a 3 minute walk from there.

Chez Patrick
8-9 Sun Street
Wan Chai (Star Street area)
Tel: 852-2527-1408
chezpatrick.hk

Very good French food in a very elegant setting, black and white decor with touches of red. Patrick is from Lyon, and much of his cooking is from this region, and it is all just very good food. Good wine list. This is the Star Street area branch, Patrick has a restaurant in Peel Street as well. While the food is equally good at both, I like this restaurant a bit better for its ambience mostly, it's on a quite pedestrian-only courtyard lane and you can have a drink outside before or after dinner or go to one of the bars in the neighborhood for a drink. Sun Street can be a little hard to find, its a tiny street off of Star Street in the few remaining low-rise group of buildings here. You can access it via a stairway from Queens Road East, look for a 7-11 on your right walking from Pacific Place/MTR, then take your next right into an open plaza and look for a set of stairs at the back, go up to the top, turn right, the restaurant is at the end of this tiny street.

Spoil
Shop 1
Sun Street (Star Street area)
Wan Chai
Tel: 852-3589-5678

Despite what I think is a very unfortunate name, this is a good restaurant, serving French/continental fare, Tiny, there are maybe 6 tables in the place, but it is on a corner and walls are all glass or open to the street so you get a larger feeling You are almost sitting IN the kitchen, but it smells good. Nice ambience. This restaurant is located on the same tiny pedestrian-only street as Chez Patrick (see above).

1/5 Nuevo
9 Star Street
Tel: 852-2529-2300

Continental fare and some tapas at the bar. Nice modern decor, open bar to the street, very nice for a drink before or after dinner at one of the other restaurants in the neighborhood, very nice for lunch too. Be sure to see the tiny temple at the end of the street here.

10 St Francis
10 St Francis Street
Wan Chai (Star Street area)
Tel: 852-2866-4466

Open from 4 pm -11 for drinks and tapas (which includes some Japanese). A tiny narrow bar, but nice for a little appetizer before dinner or a drink afterwards if you are in the neighborhood.

Olala Charcuterie
2 Star Street
Tel: 852- 2294-0450

This is a deli/butcher that also has a few tables inside. They have the tile floor, the blackboard, the rough-hewn tables, etc and are going for a certain feel, it is hardly "French rustic"; however it is very different for Hong Kong and has good food for a very casual evening. Meat-based French bistro fare, lots of different hams. Good for lunch when strolling the markets nearby in Wan Chai.

Cincecitta
9 Star Street
Tel: 852-2529-0199

Italian. This gets VERY uneven reviews, and I have had both good and OK meals there. This was the first restaurant in the Star Street area and now that there are so many other good ones (e.g. Ingredients and Chez Patrick) I don't know if it is worth it or if it will survive. Nice ambience and you can sit outside and have a drink where they have a nice green area.

Non-Chinese

Creole
Magnolia
Shop 5
No. 17 Po Yan Street,
Sheung Wan
Tel: 852 2530 9880
http://www.magnolia.hk/

Private Kitchen. Did you think you would find good Cajun food in Hong Kong? Well you can!! The chef is from Louisiana and started out as a caterer several years ago, but now serves meals on Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Hors d’oeuvres are generally served in the kitchen area and then you eat upstairs in the main dining room, everyone eats at a large table unless you have a big group in which case you get your own room. Simple white décor. Excellent food. No views. In an out-of-the-way neighborhood in Sheung Wan (during the day the area is quite interesting, esp down towards Des Voeux Road, but it is quiet at night). You have to book ahead. I think this is great for a group of 4 or more, for 2 you might feel a bit strange as the restaurants is almost always larger parties (at least when I have been there). Price is set at HK$450 and its BYOB. Menu is whatever she is making that night, but don’t worry, you will like it.

French
Le Blanc
6th Floor
83 Wan Chai Road
Wan Chai

Tel: 3428-5824

Private kitchen in the same building as Xi Yian. Good French food, with some local interpretation. Five or nine-course menus at about HK$350 and HK$580 per person, which is a very good value. They have wine or you can bring your own and no corkage fee. Eclectic décor, sort of country French, almost every table is in it’s own little room separated by curtains. Dark and romantic at night. This neighborhood is the great fruit/veg/meat/fish market area (with the odd souvenir and discount bin shop thrown in) and there are other interesting shops (good incense and tea shops across the street from the restaurant), most of these close around 7 pm in the evening which may be a bit early for dinner, but you could stroll the markets in the evening until they close, go have a drink at the Pawn, and then come here for dinner. Would be nice for lunch too, not sure what days they are open for lunch.

Indonesian
Dirty Duck Diner
5th Floor, The Broadway Building
54-62 Lockhart Rd (intersection with Fenwick Street)
Wan Chai, Hong Kong
Tel 852 2217 8000
http://www.elite-concepts.com/BB3.htm

I am embarrassed to say that this place has been open for more than 5 years apparently but I just heard about it recently. If you loved the original one in Bali like I do, try the one here. No rice paddies, unfortunately, but they do have some nice outdoor seating in bales looking out onto busy Lockhart Road from high on the 5th floor, and a nice ambience indoors. Same good food, IMO not quite as good as the original, but overall a nice meal. They also have Rijsttafel in the evening, which is hard to find here. For a meal, plan on HK$250 and above.

Japanese

I am not a huge fan of Japanese, but here are three:

Kyoto Joe
21 D’Aguilar Street
Lang Kwai Fong
2804 6800

Good sushi and other food and a nice bar. Is in Lan Kwai Fong. They have a sister restaurant called Tokio Joe around the corner (16 Lan Kwai Fong) which is a bit more casual and less expensive and is also good, esp for lunch as it is right in LKF so convenient for Central, Soho, etc.

Shiro
Level 1 Pacific Place
88 Queensway
tel: 2155-8066

Good sushi in a lively modern setting next to Lane Crawford. In a shopping mall, but don’t let that put you off. Probably better for lunch due to the location, very easy access from the Peak Tram or Central or the Wan Chai markets. Booking is recommended, unless you want to have a meal at the counter.

San San Trois
4th Floor
CITIC Tower
1 Tim Mei Avenue
Central (Admiralty)
Tel: 2104-5333

This place has the reputation as being one of the best places for Japanese food and especially sushi in Hong Kong, and it is good. It has become popular with people from my office for lunch. Has a nice ambience, modern décor, wooden floors. Has a nice view, I think it would be pretty at night. Try for a window table, there are not a lot of them. The restaurant is on the upper floor of an office building set off kind of by itself on the waterfront in Admiralty so can be sort of weird experience for the tourist, but the food is good. You can take the MTR to Admiralty and walk via a long footbridge all the way out to CITIC tower. Alternatively, it is a short walk from the Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts if you are going there for a performance (http://www.hkapa.edu), and not really a bad walk from the Grand Hyatt. If you are here for a night on which there are fireworks (Oct 1, July 1 and Chinese New Year), this would be a very good place from which to see them (of course book early!).

Korean
Sorabol
17th Floor
Lee Theatre Plaza
99 Perical Street
Causeway Bay, Hong Kong
(Near Times Square)
Tel: 2375-2882

4th Floor
Miramar Shopping Centre
132 Nathan Road
TST Kowloon
Tel:2881-6823

Sorabol.com.hk

Korean barbeque, really good and not expensive. English menus with pictures. Noisy and brightly lit, so don’t expect ambience, but good food and fun. Expect to pay about HK$150 a person for a very filling meal of several types of beef, noodles. Have the beef on the bone. The kimchi pancake is very good too. Have not been to the Kowloon outlet in many years, but expect it would be the same. There are tons of other sort of cheap and cheerful restaurants in the same building in Lee Theatre Plaza that would be fine IMO for a basic meal. Thai Sweet Basil for one.

Organic Western
beo*
16 Arbuthnot Road
Tel: 2868-0625
http://www.beo.hk/ (website does not really work yet they only opened a few months ago)

I am not on the organic bandwagon, but I think this is a good restaurant and if you want organic food, you can try this. Good fresh food, mix of European cuisines depending on what is fresh in the market that day (organically speaking). Nice modern décor, good location in the Hollywood Road area. This is a bar at night serving regular as well as organic cocktails (come on really, can they in any way be good for you?! OK they do have organic wine which is hard to find here.) Main dishes in the HK$150-300 range, starters at about HK$70-130.

Tea, Cakes, Snack, Lunch – and of course Egg Tarts!!<\b>

Café Mandarin Cake Shop and Cafe Causette
Mandarin Hotel
5 Connaught Road
Central Hong Kong
Tel; 852 2522 0111

Very nice café for a lunch or for tea and to have a piece of cake. Since the hotel was redone and the shop was moved upstairs, the cakes are much more prominently featured and are amazing, they have cakes shaped like purses and other fantasies. You can eat-in here at bar stools, or just next to this is their casual coffee shop restaurant with window tables that is nice for a snack or tea or lunch. If you want formal tea with scones, etc, head over to the lobby lounge down the hall for that.

Chocolux
57 Peel Street
Tel: 2858-8760

Shop 3 (Basement)
Pacific Place 3
Queens Road East (Wan Chai)
Tel: 2918-9892

chocoluxcafe.com

Very good muffins, brownies, deserts, hot chocolate, and the best thing: iced hot chocolate (great on a hot summer day). The Peel Street branch is much more of a cafe with a more extended menu and also has drinks like chocolate martinis. The one in Pacific Place 3 is in the basement walkway area from Pacific Place 3 over to Pacific Place 2 and the MTR, so not a lot of ambience, but if you go upstairs to the ground level of Pacific Place 3, there are outdoor tables with umbrellas in front and along the back which are very pleasant. Pacific Place 3 is the start of the "Star Street" area of Wan Chai, it is on the corner of Star Street and Queen's Road East. Many interesting shops and restaurants here.)

Egg Tarts

I would be remiss if I did not mention where to get good egg tarts, which are egg custards, and are almost the quintessential Hong Kong dessert or late afternoon snack. Two places to try them are:

Barista Caffe
35 Lyndhurst Terrace
Central

#50 Lyndhurst Terrace, just up the street from Barista (no English name for the shop).

You also will see egg tarts on offer all over town, and in dim sum restaurants for dessert. They are best when they are just out of the oven, so wait a few minutes if you have to. If you see a line, that is a good sign that some have just come out of the oven. (If you go to Macau, the quintessential place for egg tarts is the Lord Stow Bakery in the village of Coloane on Coloane Island. There are 3 branches in the town, which is about 500 yards wide, so you can’t miss one....These are Portuguese-style and are caramelized on top.)

Stanley

If you go to Stanley by the wonderful #6 bus (or via several great hikes/walks, including the very easy Tsz Lo Lan Shan Path ), the Boathouse continues to be very good (86–88 Stanley Main Street, Tel: 2813-4467). The village has redone the quayside and it is now car-free, repaved with cobblestones for strolling, and is very pleasant. Several nice pubs/cafés have opened there, the Pickled Pelican is quite fun and fine pub fare, and there are other choices along the water here as well. For a more gourmet experience (but sadly no water view) try Lucy’s:

Lucy's
64 Stanley Main Street
Tel: 852-2813-9055

Very, very good Mediterranean food in a quite charming little place. Hardly a tourist in sight. My only problem: no view! However, it is great for a meal, perhaps as a compromise, shop in the afternoon at Stanley and stay for dinner at Lucy's when it is dark (but then you don't get to appreciate the bus ride back...). Note: this restaurant is hard to find, it is not on Stanley Main Street as indicated in its address, it is on a little alley to the left of the road leading down to the market from the bus station. Go left up the stairs just past the Delifrance, the restaurant is along on the right, is painted yellow. For dinner you would need a reservation some days or weeks ahead, lunch on a weekday you may be OK without one.

Great Food, Bring A Bucket of Money

L'atelier de Joel Robuchon
Shop 401
4th Floor
The Landmark Shopping Centre
Central
Tel: 2166 9000
http://www.joel-robuchon.com/

I have to say it is really excellent food. No view. It is quite expensive, but if for a celebratory dinner, probably worth it. Of all the really expensive restaurants in Hong Kong, if I were just going for the food rather than a view/celebration, this is where I would go.

I mention the Krug Room at the Mandarin Hotel only in passing, because IMO unless you have a big party of people (and even better if someone else is paying), it would be an odd experience to go there with 2 people. Chances are you would be there with 8 other people who are part of a party, which is why I think it would be an odd experience. But take a look at the website for the Mandarin Hotel if you are interested. Take two seats at the chef’s table at Caprice in the Four Seasons hotel if there are only 2 of you, IMO.

Worth a Trip to New Territories

One-thirty-one
131 Tseng Tau Village
Sai Kung, Hong Kong
(852) 2791-2684
http://www.one-thirtyone.com/

This is very good French food in a lovely house on the water out in a remote and beautiful part of the New Territories. Really perfect for lunch as you can appreciate the quite beautiful water views, which is harder to do at night, but if you can arrive around sunset that is good too (albeit perhaps early for dinner). They have a good wine list, or you can bring your own for a corkage fee. They serve dinner Tues-Sun, and lunch is served Sat, Sun and public holidays. Set price is HK$500 per person for 4 courses and HK$800 for 6 courses. Without a car, it's a bit of a trip out by public transport, although the food is certainly worth it. However, the journey could easily be combined with visit to the "walled village" museum, the Sheung Yiu Folk Museum, which is about 15 minutes south of the restaurant by taxi, slightly longer by bus. See http://www.heritagemuseum.gov.hk/eng...ch_sel_syf.htm. You could also do one of the short walks near the museum around the harbour or up to the reservoir. Some of the best hiking/walking in the Hong Kong is in the area, and while you might not want to rock up in casual hiking gear completely sweaty, if somewhat dry and somewhat properly attired (you can change clothes at the restaurant), you could also have a meal here as part of a hike/walk. The MacLehose, #2 and 3 trails would both be doable before a meal here, and both are spectacular trails, there are many other trail options as well. Please call for a reservation before making the trip out, as the restaurant is often booked out for private functions, esp weddings. The dining room, while very lovely, is tiny, if at all possible in the weather, ask for a table outdoors so you can really appreciate the views. There is a flagstone terrace just in front of the dining room which is nice, a small part of it is under the verandah, and there is also a separate gazebo/marquee area with slightly less great views that is covered if you want shade.

Day Trip to Lamma
The Bay
Beach Front
Mo Tat Wan Village
Lamma Island
Tel: 2982 818
http://www.thebayhk.com/

If you want to get away from Hong Kong/Kowloon, a nice place to go is Lamma Island. Lamma is easily accessible via a very short ferry ride from Central. There is a very easy walk there (The Lamma Island Family Walk), which you can also make more challenging by adding on to (see below). However, the Family Walk is a quite easy, completely paved and offers great views, which takes about an hour to go between Yung Shue Wah where the ferry drops you off from Central to Sok Kwu Wan, where you can get the ferry back (unless you choose to go to Aberdeen, see below). The first time I did this walk about 10 years ago I wore a dress and espadrilles, so that will tell you how easy it is to do, people take strollers on it, although you would be pushing uphill a little with a stroller. On the way, you can stop at the very nice beach at Hung Shing Yeh, and also take a little detour down to the even nicer beach at Lo So Shing Beach. There is a little Tin Hau temple at Sok Kwu Wan.

Most tourists also have a seafood lunch at one of the myriad of places along the seafront in Sok Kwu Wan. However, I would skip those places as they are very touristy and overpriced (the seafood is not, by the way, from the fish farms in the harbour in front of the restaurants, the water is way too polluted, the fish is imported, so you may as well stay in Hong Kong and eat the same imported fish). I would walk another 20 minutes along the water to the seaside village of Mo Tat, where there is a quite decent continental restaurant called The Bay which also has an excellent view. After lunch, you can take the little wooden kaido ferry boat over to Aberdeen and see the harbour. (You could also take the kaido back over to Sok Kwu Wan, about a 3 minute ride, and catch the big ferry back to Central). Kaido ferry schedules are on the website for The Bay restaurant. Once in Aberdeen, you can go visit the Jumbo Floating Restaurant (which now has shops) or you can hire a little bum boat to take you around Aberdeen harbour if you have not seen that before.

If you want to add on to the Lamma Island Family Walk, then after you get to Sok Ku Wan (about an hour) and reach the Tin Hau Temple on the sea front there (before the restaurants), look for a set of concrete steps to the right of the temple going uphill to your right. This will lead first up to a quite interesting Buddhist cemetery on the left. At the crest of the hill, the trail divides and you have three choices: (i) you can go left and up and over Ling Kok Shan mountain, which on a clear day will offer some of the very best views of any walk anywhere in Hong Kong IMO. This is all concrete steps or trail. After coming down a number of stairs it will intersect with another trial, go left to head into the village of Mo Tat; (ii) if you go continue straight at the fork, the trail here will also give some very good views from a bit lower elevations, and will head around and down to some beach areas, including the village of Tung O where Chow Young Fat grew up. This trail will then carry on along the water to Mo Tat (and The Bay restaurant). It is not as challenging as going over Ling Kok Shan hill, but still offers some nice views; (iii) I would not recommend going right at the fork, other than going up to the pavilion there to see the views and coming back down; otherwise the trail to the right becomes a dirt trail up and over Mt Stenhouse and is one of the most challenging in Hong Kong. Taking either of these trails from Sok Ku Wan will add about 1.5-2 hours to your walking time.

DonTopaz

Excellent info, Cicerone -- thanks for the detail and the updates.

Elizabeth_S

Now I have to go back! Thanks Cicerone!

FromDC

Thank you SO VERY MUCH. This will make our first trip to Hong Kong even better!

AskOksena

... thank you, for your fine update - and yes, your praise a few months back of a certain Singaporean airlines' latest business-class product ... (SQ 862/861 J perchance? At present, favourite SIN-HKG-SIN sectors.)

... thanks again, and, as always, sweet and smooth (SQ) rides to you ...

macintosh (robert)


flying high again/

(osbourne)

monicapileggi

Bookmarking! I'll be in HK at the end of October.

Thanks!!

Monica

Woody

Wonderful recommendations. Thanks.

Woody

tongsa

great info. thanks cicerone!

wiselindag

Cicerone,

I made good use of your previous postings for our brief HK visit in April, and want to say thanks for this update. I know I want to return to HK and do a lot more eating, so I'll add these to my voluminous Hong Kong Trip Notes for next year's return (I hope!)

Linda

thordarson

Cicereone,I really appreciate people like you who are willing to spend lots of your free time to help out people like me. I have been reading your posts and if I am not imposing I would love your feedback on my first time trip to Singapore and Hong Kong( arriving Singapore Sept 1 to 6 and Hong Kong Sept 6 to 11).I have copied all of your recommendations about restaurants,tailors,tours etc.I will be traveling with my father(72) who has some mobility issues( he will not be able to walk for more than a few hours at a time. We are both very interested in learning about the people and the culture.We are also interested in a not too expensive tailor close to our hotel ( The Hyatt). I would like your advice on a tailor not far from the hotel and any unusual non tourist Chinese experiences. Thanks in advance for your help. Kelly

Cicerone

My thoughts are as follows:

1. If there is any way you could move your trip to the latter half of October, I think you will find temps in Hong Kong to be much better. The “winter” generally arrives around mid-October and temps and humidity drop appreciably. There will also be much less chance of rainfall (basically zero chance). September is still a rainy month here, and we can get typhoons during that month as well. I would be a bit concerned about the heat and humidity in September with your father, as it can be quite debilitating, even for people in generally good health. However, if you can’t move the trip, then I would not worry a lot about it. Just take things slow and make sure you both drink plenty of water. Singapore’s temps will not vary greatly between Sept and Oct and their rainy season starts in late November, so you would be fine in either month. (Singapore is quite hot and humid in all months, so go slow there as well.) See weatherbase.com for information or other weather websites.

2. Both Singapore and Hong Kong airports are huge and may require long walks from your gate to the main terminals and Immigration/Baggage Claim. However, both offer golf cart service for disabled people, and I would suggest you try to arrange that for both your arrival and departure flights. You nay have to pay a small fee or it may be provided for free. You can also get a wheelchair service. Your father can always choose to walk if he wants, but it would be nice to have the option if you are faced with a long walk (and in Hong Kong if you arrive or depart from Gates 33-80 you will also have to take an underground train from the further gates to the main terminal area). Contact your airline, and also see the airport websites for information. For Hong Kong, see http://www.hongkongairport.com/eng/index.html, click on “Arrival” then “Special Needs Access”, then “Passenger Terminals” For Changi see
http://www.changiairport.com/changi/...val/index.html

3. For a list of things to do in Hong Kong, please search this board for my very long list of reccos called “Cicerone’s Reccos for What the Locals Do for Fun in Hong Kong (Hint: We DON’T Go to those Awful Night Markets....)” Both should give you some ideas for what to do. I would encourage ferry rides for someone with mobility problems, as you can see a lot of scenery without having to move, also something like the #6 bus to Stanley is great fun and he can sit by the water in Stanley at a restaurant/pub while you shop. The Star Ferry offers tourist cruises you might look into. The mid-levels escalator is also a good way to see the Central and Soho areas without having to climb the hilly streets in this area, this is not, however, one long escalator, and does involve some walking on flat parts between escalator portions, and you do have to take stairs to access the escalator from some areas like Hollywood Road; but it is probably quite doable. Finally, check the Hong Kong Tourism Board website at discoverhongkong.com. For a list of restaurant suggestions see above. I have also lived in Singapore and have posted on some fun things to do there, check for posts called “Pls help me lay out my two meager days in Singapore”, “Singapore – Geylang Malay Village” and “One night in Singapore Need Great Restaurant” for some ideas. The Singapore tourist board website at http://www.visitsingapore.com/publis.../en/index.html is also a good idea. I would make a reservation for the Singapore Flyover, as that would be a good way to “see” Singapore without needing to walk much see http://www.singaporeflyer.com.sg/. The night safari would also work well I think.

4. I am of two minds about the Grand Hyatt as a location for someone with mobility problems. On the one hand, it is near to a neighborhood I like a lot for local markets and some good restaurants; however those are kind of a long walk from the Grand Hyatt, and I am not sure that your father would want to do this on a frequent basis, so you may end up taking a lot of short cab rides. Also, the Hyatt is not near any local tourist attractions at all, so again you are going to end up taking cabs to places like the Star Ferry. Cabs are not expensive, but this can get tiresome after a while, if it is raining, they are quite hard to find. I have only stayed at the Grand Hyatt once, many years ago now, but do go there for functions pretty often. You may end up waiting in lines for cabs more than you would want, and more than you would need if you stayed someplace closer to attractions or a subway line. The subway stop for the Grand Hyatt is quite a long walk from the hotel. If you could get in someplace like the Salisbury Y, you could walk to the Star Ferry and it is close to a subway entrance. (I would note, however, that for the subways, almost all entrances have stairs of some sort at some point, while there are escalators, for the most part those on are on lower levels, many entrances are stairs only. I don’t know if that is an issue for your father. Also, places like the TST subway are huge, and you can walk underground for quite a while before you actually get to the trains. Cabs and buses may be a better solution for you.)

5. For tailors in Hong Kong, I have posted before, some reccos are below. I assume by “Hyatt” you mean the Grand Hyatt on Hong Kong Island, as the other Hyatt hotel here has not yet opened. However, neither of the tailors below are near the Grand Hyatt, as they are in Kowloon and the Grand Hyatt is on Hong Kong Island. I don’t know any tailors near the Grand Hyatt, I can ask around. The only tailor I know on Hong Kong Island is primarily for women, I assume you are looking for a men’s tailor (there is a difference in skills needed, IMO). I have included her below; however she is not walkable from the Grand Hyatt, but would be a short cab ride away.

I do not know how “cheap” any of these recommendations are. I think you would pay between US$500-600 for a man’s suit as a starting price with a basic wool fabric, not sure if that is in your range. Women’s suits will be a bit less, about US$350-400 (but then you don’t get two pairs of trousers). IMO inexpensive Hong Kong tailors are not good quality, and you will get what you pay for (or do not pay for). Good quality tailoring here is not cheap, but you get a custom fit, very good fabrics and good tailoring, all of which are worth paying for. The guys handing out their cards at the Star Ferry pier in Kowloon and all along Salisbury Road can make you a suit in 24 hours quite cheaply, but I don’t think it would be very good quality. I would not recommend those. You have to determine whether it is worth paying more for good quality, or perhaps you just want to spend your time sightseeing instead.

With any of these tailors, try to make an appointment, go see them as the first thing on your itinerary, and leave time for at least 2 fittings.

Maxwell's Clothiers Ltd.
7A Han Hing Mansion
38-40 Hankow Road
Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon
website: maxwellsclothiers.com
e-mail: [email protected]
tel 852-2366-6705
fax: 852-2366-6658

This is a long-established tailor in Hong Kong. I have used them in the past, and many of my friends use them as well. They are in Kowloon, behind the Peninsula Hotel. There is a map on their website showing their location. You have to buy fabric from them, but they have an astonishing selection. They will keep your measurements and you can order from them on-line in the future. I would make an appointment with them.

William Cheng & Son
8/F, 38 Hankow Road
Kowloon, Hong Kong
Tel: 852 2739 7888

This is a tailor which I have not used, but a friend of mine has used a few times as he felt Maxwell’s was getting too expensive. I have seen the suits he made, and think they are very good. These tailors about at least a third cheaper than Maxwell’s. They are also in the TST area near the Peninsula. I don't know if an appointment is necessary, but it wouldn't hurt.

Margaret Court Tailoress
Flat G, 8th Floor
Block A Winner Building
27-37 D'Aguilar Street
Central Hong Kong
tel: 852-2525-5596
fax: 852-2537-0898
e-mail: [email protected]

I have used her for a few cocktail dresses and about half a dozen pantsuits and have been very pleased. She does primarily women's clothing, but will do men as well. She has a good selection of fabrics, she will also work with fabric that you bring in yourself. She is closed on Sundays. I would call ahead the day you want to go and fix a time to stop in.

If this is for you, IMO a better bargain is to have a bag made or have shoes made (although for the latter you really need time for at least one fitting, so again go to them first and make time for 1 fitting). I would recommend the following. Either can copy a bag you already have (bring it along), or make you a bag like a Birkin. You will pay about US$350-500 for the Birkin, but that is a lot less than the original, and they can add a cell phone pocket, Blackberry pocket, eyeglass pocket, etc that Birkin doesn’t. I have mine lined with red suede, again something you can’t get in the original. They can’t copy LV or leather that is printed with a logo like LV, but otherwise can make virtually anything. Hand-made custom fit shoes are really wonderful. Of course, even your Dad may appreciate custom fit shoes.

Mayer Shoes
Mandarin Oriental Hotel
5 Connaught Road
Central
Tel: 852 2524 3317

Mayer Shoes makes very good quality bags and shoes, and will copy any bag or shoe you already have, just bring it along. Shoes will run about US$350 to start, bags are about the same. They will also ship and item, so you don't have to be there to collect it when it is finished.

LIII Couture
Shop 75 Tower 2
Admiralty Centre
18 Harcourt Road
tel 2136-9739

They make fantastic shoes in every material, color and style you can imagine. They have copies of designer shoes. They have copied shoes for me that are made better than the originals. They use very good quality materials and use leather linings and add arch paddings. They fit beautifully. They can copy from a photo. They are a little cheaper than Mayer, quality is maybe a bit less, but overall I think they are a very good choice for shoes.

FromDC

Cicerone, it never occurred to me that custom bags or shoes would be a likely "souvenir" from Hong Kong. Do these places have a large selection of leathers?? For shoes, do they have the TarynRose type very soft, buttery leathers?

twotravel

Hello, I also have a mobility problem and have followed Cicerone's and others excellent advice before when in Hong Kong. I did find problems with using the MTR, distance to walk to reach the trains, stairs, not all stations have lifts /escalators ( in fact few if memory serves me), also at certain times the crowds or sheer numbers of people using the system but once on the train I was always offered a seat, the bus ride to Stanley was very doable, but better getting on at the first point as you have more time if you want to go upstairs, although we did it once downstairs and still had an enjoyable time. We used taxis a lot but also the bus was very accessible. The Star ferry also easy access, but not from WanChai, lots of stairs I remember when we took the ferry to Wanchai instead of Central, much better at Central, easy to pick up taxi there and at TST. We had an amazing time eating our way through Cicerone's list, I also recall that M at the Fringe was up steps, but the meal was definitely worth it. The ferries to the other islands are also easy to access.

thordarson

Cicereone, Thank you so much for your help. You certainly made some great sugestions.I have now changed my hotel to the Salisbury Y, as per your reccomendations.I am booking a tailor now as well. I have one last question for you. I may connect with someone in Hong Kong...what can I bring as a small gift for his family. I know it should be presented nicely...I was thinking maple syrup...however I am not sure if that would be enjoyed? Thanks again. Kelly

Cicerone

I think that is a very nice idea, it represents your home and as far as I know has no bad luck connotations. (It more the latter I worry about when I give gifts here, there are so many things that have bad luck connotations. Even books which are generally my preferred gift, but here they mean bad luck for gamblers, and there are a lot of gamblers here! Clocks are out too, time ticking away on your life. All sorts of things you would never think of. White flowers generally are for funerals for example, not for a bouquet for a dinner party. ) Pure maple syrup of course has to be imported here and is expensive. I can’t say for sure that a Hong Kong Chinese person is necessarily a pancake or waffle lover, but it can also be used as a sweetener in other things, and sweet deserts are a favourite here. I think it is a good idea. I give chocolates a lot here myself as they are neutral (no bad luck) and sweet (a big favourite), so the syrup is a similar thing I would think.

I know your trip to Hong Kong is September 6-11 so would mention that the Mid-Autumn Festival is September 15 and that is celebrated here by the giving and receiving of moon cakes. These come these days in a huge variety of flavors (including chocolate and ice cream), so if you also wanted to present a box of moon cakes to give with your syrup that might be a nice thing to do. You will see moon cakes for sale virtually everywhere during the week of your visit, from Hagen-Daaz shops to grocery shops to bakeries, so just look around at what might interest you. The traditional kind are made from lotus seed paste and have a duck egg yolk inside. But you can go non-traditional too. You might try the cake shop on the first floor of the Mandarin Hotel for some unusual moon cakes or a chocolate shop like Godiva (ground floor Princes Building, across the street from the Mandarin Hotel).

I would also mention that you should not be at all surprised if your gift is not opened in front of you, but you are simply thanked (almost casually) and the gift is put aside to be opened later when you are gone. Opening gifts in front of the giver and making a big fuss over a gift is not the way things are done in most of Asia. This is considered impolite. Don’t expect this and don’t be disappointed if your gift is not acknowledged in any way. This is not a sign that your gift is not appreciated, it is just not the custom. If they know Western customs, they may ask if they should open it in front of you right then, it is up to you to say yes or not.

KMLoke

Good time to revisit this thread.

Jaya

I haven't been to Hong Kong yet to know any of these restaurants, but it's very gracious of you to give us this wonderful and personalized list.

Cicerone

I have actually updated and consolidated the list or restaurant recommendations mentioned in the link above, and is it now a 40-page list, which I am loathe to post here as I do not like the new format and the list is way too long anyway. I would be happy to e-mail it to you if you want to send me a message at [email protected]. It is broken down by view, no view, area, price and food type/region.

I am leaving on vacation myself from tomorrow for a few weeks, so if you don’t send me a message by the end of your day today, I won’t be able to respond until March 24.