Peter N-H |
Nov 18th, 2002 07:28 AM |
I think the arrive one day, return the next policy is a little rushed for Chengde, although it's certainly possible to do things this way. The first afternoon can be spent at the Mountain Retreat, and then a day amongst the Wai Ba Miao (Eight Outer Temples). It's possible to return to Beijing on aircon minibuses faster than on the train, and these leave all day, so you can hop on one whenever you feel ready. When the Jing-Cheng highway is complete, the trip from Beijing's suburbs to Chengde will take little more than an hour, it's predicted.<BR><BR>Chengde has been trying to increase its attractiveness by rebuilding temples in the town from scratch, and refurbishing other out of town sights. The Shuang Ta are perhaps worth a quick visit if you've covered everything else, if only to note how cleverly the hideous green metal staircase (whose removal has been ordered already) is kept hidden in every publicity shot you ever see of the place.<BR><BR>Pingyao the town deserves a day at least, not just for the old banks, but for the backstreet mansions into which you can freely wander (and perhaps find yourself invited to sit down and have tea). You might like to go to the tiny airstrip just outside the northeast corner of the town (why isn't this mentioned in guide books?) where you may find a passenger bi-plane of some antiquity giving short flights over the town. The temple (name escapes me) just outside the walls, has some of Chine's finer statuary, and then you have the vast courtyarded mansions of long-deceased merchants to deal with, which lie in the countryside round about. The Qiao Jia Da Yuan, north of Pingyao, is the most famous. This was the location for 'Raise the Red Lantern'. But the Wang Jia Da Yuan, south of Pingyao is more than twice the size, and very elaborate. There are several others.<BR><BR>I'd spend at least one whole day in Chengde, plus a further morning and/or afternoon, and two whole days in and around Pingyao, plus another morning or afternoon.<BR><BR>Incidentally, according to some Hong Kong sources there are plans to move around half the town's populace, about 40,000 people, to outside the walls. No doubt back street mansions will then be rebuilt, and entrance fees introduced. Apparently the people are getting in the way of the beauty. Such are the side-effects of UNESCO World Heritage Listing.<BR><BR>Peter N-H<BR> http://members.axion.net/~pnh/China.html
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