Captivated By Beautiful Sri Lanka.
Feb 24th, 2011, 08:54 PM
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Captivated By Beautiful Sri Lanka.
When we first considered visiting Sri Lanka, our intention was just to find a cheapy package holiday and spend some relaxing time in the sunshine at a beach resort. But it very soon became clear that this country had so much to offer so we set about planning a tour for our twelve day stay.
Firstly we booked our flights. Jet Airways provided the best deal so we went with them. Outward to Colombo via Mumbai and returning via Delhi. All round very good service from Jet and we will not hesitate to use them again.
After much researching and investigating we ended up with a plan to stay at Habarana, Kandy, Nuwara Ellya, Galle and finally Colombo.
For Habarana we booked the Cinnamon Lodge, for Kandy the Ammaya Hills, for Nuwara Ellya the Heritage Tea Factory, for Galle the Jetwing Lighthouse and for Colombo the Galle Face Hotel. All the hotels were booked through Agoda.
Our next job was to work out how to get around. At this point a huge thanks goes to Craig for his great report on his and Jeans’ Sri Lanka trip and in particular for his recommendations for tour director Rammuni. We researched other opinions about this guy and could only find high praise. So after contacting him and agreeing a price for his services for twelve days, we booked him.
Then the terrible flooding hit Sri Lanka in January then again in February. We were rather nervous about what we would find and whether we would be able to visit all of the places we had planned especially as the FCO was advising against travelling to some of our proposed areas. Nevertheless, on February 11th, we set off from Heathrow with the wonderful anticipation of visiting a new country. The adventure begins………
Firstly we booked our flights. Jet Airways provided the best deal so we went with them. Outward to Colombo via Mumbai and returning via Delhi. All round very good service from Jet and we will not hesitate to use them again.
After much researching and investigating we ended up with a plan to stay at Habarana, Kandy, Nuwara Ellya, Galle and finally Colombo.
For Habarana we booked the Cinnamon Lodge, for Kandy the Ammaya Hills, for Nuwara Ellya the Heritage Tea Factory, for Galle the Jetwing Lighthouse and for Colombo the Galle Face Hotel. All the hotels were booked through Agoda.
Our next job was to work out how to get around. At this point a huge thanks goes to Craig for his great report on his and Jeans’ Sri Lanka trip and in particular for his recommendations for tour director Rammuni. We researched other opinions about this guy and could only find high praise. So after contacting him and agreeing a price for his services for twelve days, we booked him.
Then the terrible flooding hit Sri Lanka in January then again in February. We were rather nervous about what we would find and whether we would be able to visit all of the places we had planned especially as the FCO was advising against travelling to some of our proposed areas. Nevertheless, on February 11th, we set off from Heathrow with the wonderful anticipation of visiting a new country. The adventure begins………
Feb 26th, 2011, 10:05 AM
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We arrived at Colombo at 4.15am after straightforward flights. The only event of note was going through security at Mumbai which was an absolute nightmare. All my valuables including wallet were sent through the usual type of scanner whilst I had to queue for the body scanner. All the while my possessions were out of sight. However, nothing went missing so all is well that ends well, but it was a stressful ten minutes or so.
We bought some drinks at Colombo duty free on the way out of the airport and soon found Rammuni and his driver Mano, waiting for us in the arrivals hall. We were soon loaded into the mini van and on our way to Habarana. I asked to stop at an ATM on the way to our hotel and we stopped at a bank in Dambulla where I was able to get some local currency. Next to the bank was a Food City store where we purchased some water and basic snacks for future use. We then drove just over the road to a small hotel where we all had breakfast. Suitably refreshed, we then started on the final leg of our journey to Cinnamon Lodge.
Check in was smooth as silk and we were in our room by 11.00am. Rammuni hung around to make sure there were no issues and we dismissed him for the day after agreeing to meet in the lobby the following day at 09.30 for a trip to Polonnaruwa.
After a short nap, we had some lunch and then set about exploring the vast hotel grounds. During a fairly short walk, around 2 hours, we encountered so much wild life. Countless monkeys, a pair of fish eagles, several snakes, a large water monitor, four or five iguanas, a mongoose, a chameleon and many, many spectacular birds. To name just a few. Very quickly, we fell in love with this hotel.
For dinner that evening we chose the buffet in the main restaurant. Nothing special, but a decent meal and not too pricey. They do have one little quirky thing here….there is a special cool room, in the restaurant, where all the deserts are presented. I heard one lady remark to her friend, ‘This is the dangerous room’!!! Yes, I know what she meant. A dedicated cool room just for desserts is just ……well…….cool !
Tomorrow……. Polonnaruwa.
We bought some drinks at Colombo duty free on the way out of the airport and soon found Rammuni and his driver Mano, waiting for us in the arrivals hall. We were soon loaded into the mini van and on our way to Habarana. I asked to stop at an ATM on the way to our hotel and we stopped at a bank in Dambulla where I was able to get some local currency. Next to the bank was a Food City store where we purchased some water and basic snacks for future use. We then drove just over the road to a small hotel where we all had breakfast. Suitably refreshed, we then started on the final leg of our journey to Cinnamon Lodge.
Check in was smooth as silk and we were in our room by 11.00am. Rammuni hung around to make sure there were no issues and we dismissed him for the day after agreeing to meet in the lobby the following day at 09.30 for a trip to Polonnaruwa.
After a short nap, we had some lunch and then set about exploring the vast hotel grounds. During a fairly short walk, around 2 hours, we encountered so much wild life. Countless monkeys, a pair of fish eagles, several snakes, a large water monitor, four or five iguanas, a mongoose, a chameleon and many, many spectacular birds. To name just a few. Very quickly, we fell in love with this hotel.
For dinner that evening we chose the buffet in the main restaurant. Nothing special, but a decent meal and not too pricey. They do have one little quirky thing here….there is a special cool room, in the restaurant, where all the deserts are presented. I heard one lady remark to her friend, ‘This is the dangerous room’!!! Yes, I know what she meant. A dedicated cool room just for desserts is just ……well…….cool !
Tomorrow……. Polonnaruwa.
Feb 26th, 2011, 02:54 PM
#7
Uh-oh, on a short walk you encountered "several snakes"? I'm always on the lookout for new destinations to add to my wish list, but given my terrible snake phobia, maybe Sri Lanka's not for me. I'll be glad to follow along with your story, though. Keep it coming.
Feb 26th, 2011, 09:07 PM
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Bob, for sweet lovers the cool room is heaven. During our stay we were invited to have a walk through the kitchens. Absolutely spotless. The section where all these delicate sweets are made was fascinating. Little cakes with pieces of chocolate and various fruits being placed individually. All the sweets being hand made by this huge army dedicated and proud kitchen workers. A very,very, impressive kitchen.
althom, I'm not too keen on snakes either, but it really wasn't an issue. After the first one, which was something of a horror moment, we tended to view them with fascination, keeping as far away as possible.
We arrived at the lobby at around 9.15 and Rammuni was there waiting for us, so we got a nice early start. I think it took around an hour and a half to reach Polonnaruwa. The drive was lovely taking in some really beautiful scenery. The site is very spread out and large. Too big to walk around. Some people use bikes, but we had the mini van and used that to get from area to area. I don’t really know what I was expecting, but this place absolutely blew me away.
The ruins of this ancient city which dates from the late tenth century, stand on the east shore of a large artificial lake, the Topa Wewa Lake, or Parakrama Samudra (the Sea of Parakrama), created by King Parakramabahu I (1153-86), whose reign was Polonnaruwa's golden age. Within a rectangle of city walls, there are palace buildings and clusters of dozens of dagobas, temples and various other religious buildings.
It struck me as being sort of a cross between Angkor and Pompei. Angkor because of the way nature has kind of reclaimed bits of it and the building styles are vaguely similar. There were some examples of using large blocks here, just like you find all over Angkor. And Pompei, because it feels very much like a lived in city. We really felt that we got a sense of how everyday living would have been like here. It was easy to feel that you were walking around a lived in city and to sense how it might have been to live here.
On the way back to our hotel, we stopped at a lakeside restaurant for lunch. A buffet affair with various curries etc. They also had nice selection of fresh un-peeled fruit. We made several short stops to look at various points of interest.
Arriving back at Cinnamon Lodge around three, we made arrangements with Rammuni to visit Sigirya the next day and agreed to meet at 08.00.
So after quick showers, we headed for the pool. They have a lovely pool here and we had it pretty much to ourselves. We soon realised the importance of securing our personal belongings left on the sun beds, because inquisitive monkeys very quickly take the opportunity to explore an unattended sun bed!!
For dinner we decided to use the a la carte restaurant which is called The Verandah, and has both indoor and outdoor seating. We chose to sit outside, around a lovely Koi pond. The food was delicious. Well presented and tasty. It was also reasonably priced. After a couple of drinks in the bar we had an early night in preparation for the exertions to come at Sigirya.
althom, I'm not too keen on snakes either, but it really wasn't an issue. After the first one, which was something of a horror moment, we tended to view them with fascination, keeping as far away as possible.
We arrived at the lobby at around 9.15 and Rammuni was there waiting for us, so we got a nice early start. I think it took around an hour and a half to reach Polonnaruwa. The drive was lovely taking in some really beautiful scenery. The site is very spread out and large. Too big to walk around. Some people use bikes, but we had the mini van and used that to get from area to area. I don’t really know what I was expecting, but this place absolutely blew me away.
The ruins of this ancient city which dates from the late tenth century, stand on the east shore of a large artificial lake, the Topa Wewa Lake, or Parakrama Samudra (the Sea of Parakrama), created by King Parakramabahu I (1153-86), whose reign was Polonnaruwa's golden age. Within a rectangle of city walls, there are palace buildings and clusters of dozens of dagobas, temples and various other religious buildings.
It struck me as being sort of a cross between Angkor and Pompei. Angkor because of the way nature has kind of reclaimed bits of it and the building styles are vaguely similar. There were some examples of using large blocks here, just like you find all over Angkor. And Pompei, because it feels very much like a lived in city. We really felt that we got a sense of how everyday living would have been like here. It was easy to feel that you were walking around a lived in city and to sense how it might have been to live here.
On the way back to our hotel, we stopped at a lakeside restaurant for lunch. A buffet affair with various curries etc. They also had nice selection of fresh un-peeled fruit. We made several short stops to look at various points of interest.
Arriving back at Cinnamon Lodge around three, we made arrangements with Rammuni to visit Sigirya the next day and agreed to meet at 08.00.
So after quick showers, we headed for the pool. They have a lovely pool here and we had it pretty much to ourselves. We soon realised the importance of securing our personal belongings left on the sun beds, because inquisitive monkeys very quickly take the opportunity to explore an unattended sun bed!!
For dinner we decided to use the a la carte restaurant which is called The Verandah, and has both indoor and outdoor seating. We chose to sit outside, around a lovely Koi pond. The food was delicious. Well presented and tasty. It was also reasonably priced. After a couple of drinks in the bar we had an early night in preparation for the exertions to come at Sigirya.
Feb 27th, 2011, 12:09 AM
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We spent a few days over Christmas at the Cinnamon Lodge (as a base) and I recall that cool room well! On Christmas eve when they had a huge gala buffet, that cool room was absolutely chock O' block of delicious morsels - I was told the next day that there was 60+ different desserts. ....and Santa arrived by elephant!
Feb 27th, 2011, 09:34 AM
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Leigh, I also thought Polonnaruwa was an incredible place. Did Rammuni serve as your guide for the site or did you use a local guide? The lovely dining room at the lake by Polonnaruwa was built for Queen Elizabeth when she visited decades ago.
I'm looking forward to more!
I'm looking forward to more!
Feb 27th, 2011, 10:54 AM
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Yes Kathie, on this one occassion Rammuni did act as our guide.
So on to day three. The plan for today was climb Sigirya in the morning and a forest trip late afternoon, hopefully to see some elephants.
But before that…a little story from my childhood. I was brought up in a small fishing town on the east coast of Scotland called Dunbar. A short walk from my home was a beautiful beach called Bellhaven. In order to reach the beach proper, it was necessary to cross a small river by bridge. The bridge had strong sturdy solid steps up to the crossing part and then it was slotted planks for the crossing which had gaps in them, meaning that as you walked over, if you looked down you could see right through to the river below. As a family we often took our pet dog Toby for walks on this beautiful expansive beach. Toby loved the beach……however……he hated the bridge. As we approached it you could always see the nervous anticipation in him. He would amble up to the steps, look at the bridge with disdain and begin the ascent. He would always get to the top and maybe two steps onto the crossing and then…….terror. As soon as he looked through the gaps he would freeze. All four legs fully stretched out stiff and rigid like some cartoon figure, and he just could not move. We would have to pick him up and carry him to the steps going down at the other side and he’d be fine. We crossed that bridge with him hundreds of times and it was always the same. The point of this story will become clear later.
Rammuni and Mano picked us up at 08.00 and we headed off for Sigirya. We left the main road and took a rough track through a forest for several miles passing all sorts of wildlife including a beautiful peacock high up in a tree. I know it’s a bird…. but I’ve only ever seen peacocks on the ground so just for a moment it felt odd seeing this huge bird in a tree. We passed lots of small communities who had been badly hit by the recent flooding, and just going through these areas, watching people going about the business of trying to rebuild their lives was very humbling.
By about 9.30, we had reached the area where the tickets for the rock are sold.
After a short comfort stop, we headed for the main car park and Rammuni introduced us to our guide for the rock. Before starting the climb we looked around a small museum for say ten minutes.
As we were approaching the first steps, our guide bent down and was poking away at the grass and encouraging us to look. At first we couldn’t see what he was getting at but then we spotted it. In amongst the grass there were clumps of a very small fern like plant. As he was poking it, the leaves clamped shut tight together. It was some sort of insect eating plant. I’ve seen the Venus flytrap type of things before, but this was much smaller, and I’m afraid I’ve no idea what it is called.
So on to the climb. Yes it’s quite a climb. Up to the start of the mirror wall, then up the spiral staircase to see the best of the frescoes. Back down the spiral staircase and onwards and upwards past the mirror wall until reaching the Lions Paws……..phew! Quite a struggle for a heavy smoker like me. And you know what? Whilst sitting down recovering from the climb the first thing I do……..is light a cigarette!!!! Totally nuts.
After fifteen minutes or so we started on the final section. This is a steel staircase bolted on to the outside of the rock. Very open and kind of rickety, not square or level and a little disconcerting. Lynda leading the way in front of me (so that I could catch her if she fell!!), up to the first dogleg round to the second with pretty much just one more section to go before the top and then it happened………Lynda had a Toby moment! She absolutely froze. I can’t do it, I can’t do she screamed. Her legs spread out and rigid and the same with her arms. Instantly I pictured Toby all these years ago, it all came flooding back. But poor Lynda couldn’t move and I certainly couldn’t carry her so we slowly made our way back down the steel staircase. Once we were back on to solid ground her determination kicked in and she flatly stated that she would not be beaten and after ten minutes to regain her composure, she wanted to try again.
So after much deep breathing, we set off again but at exactly the same point she froze again. So reluctantly we surrendered and started on our way down.
Even though we didn’t quite make it to the top, we really enjoyed our time at the rock and Lynda has stopped beating herself up about her fear of heights. She really gave it a good go. To be honest though, part of me was relieved that we turned back because I’m not in good condition and was really finding it a struggle.
Back to the hotel for a light lunch and a swim before our jeep trip later in the afternoon.
So on to day three. The plan for today was climb Sigirya in the morning and a forest trip late afternoon, hopefully to see some elephants.
But before that…a little story from my childhood. I was brought up in a small fishing town on the east coast of Scotland called Dunbar. A short walk from my home was a beautiful beach called Bellhaven. In order to reach the beach proper, it was necessary to cross a small river by bridge. The bridge had strong sturdy solid steps up to the crossing part and then it was slotted planks for the crossing which had gaps in them, meaning that as you walked over, if you looked down you could see right through to the river below. As a family we often took our pet dog Toby for walks on this beautiful expansive beach. Toby loved the beach……however……he hated the bridge. As we approached it you could always see the nervous anticipation in him. He would amble up to the steps, look at the bridge with disdain and begin the ascent. He would always get to the top and maybe two steps onto the crossing and then…….terror. As soon as he looked through the gaps he would freeze. All four legs fully stretched out stiff and rigid like some cartoon figure, and he just could not move. We would have to pick him up and carry him to the steps going down at the other side and he’d be fine. We crossed that bridge with him hundreds of times and it was always the same. The point of this story will become clear later.
Rammuni and Mano picked us up at 08.00 and we headed off for Sigirya. We left the main road and took a rough track through a forest for several miles passing all sorts of wildlife including a beautiful peacock high up in a tree. I know it’s a bird…. but I’ve only ever seen peacocks on the ground so just for a moment it felt odd seeing this huge bird in a tree. We passed lots of small communities who had been badly hit by the recent flooding, and just going through these areas, watching people going about the business of trying to rebuild their lives was very humbling.
By about 9.30, we had reached the area where the tickets for the rock are sold.
After a short comfort stop, we headed for the main car park and Rammuni introduced us to our guide for the rock. Before starting the climb we looked around a small museum for say ten minutes.
As we were approaching the first steps, our guide bent down and was poking away at the grass and encouraging us to look. At first we couldn’t see what he was getting at but then we spotted it. In amongst the grass there were clumps of a very small fern like plant. As he was poking it, the leaves clamped shut tight together. It was some sort of insect eating plant. I’ve seen the Venus flytrap type of things before, but this was much smaller, and I’m afraid I’ve no idea what it is called.
So on to the climb. Yes it’s quite a climb. Up to the start of the mirror wall, then up the spiral staircase to see the best of the frescoes. Back down the spiral staircase and onwards and upwards past the mirror wall until reaching the Lions Paws……..phew! Quite a struggle for a heavy smoker like me. And you know what? Whilst sitting down recovering from the climb the first thing I do……..is light a cigarette!!!! Totally nuts.
After fifteen minutes or so we started on the final section. This is a steel staircase bolted on to the outside of the rock. Very open and kind of rickety, not square or level and a little disconcerting. Lynda leading the way in front of me (so that I could catch her if she fell!!), up to the first dogleg round to the second with pretty much just one more section to go before the top and then it happened………Lynda had a Toby moment! She absolutely froze. I can’t do it, I can’t do she screamed. Her legs spread out and rigid and the same with her arms. Instantly I pictured Toby all these years ago, it all came flooding back. But poor Lynda couldn’t move and I certainly couldn’t carry her so we slowly made our way back down the steel staircase. Once we were back on to solid ground her determination kicked in and she flatly stated that she would not be beaten and after ten minutes to regain her composure, she wanted to try again.
So after much deep breathing, we set off again but at exactly the same point she froze again. So reluctantly we surrendered and started on our way down.
Even though we didn’t quite make it to the top, we really enjoyed our time at the rock and Lynda has stopped beating herself up about her fear of heights. She really gave it a good go. To be honest though, part of me was relieved that we turned back because I’m not in good condition and was really finding it a struggle.
Back to the hotel for a light lunch and a swim before our jeep trip later in the afternoon.
Feb 27th, 2011, 11:24 AM
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Well, you can always look at my photos to see what the view is like:
http://craigandjeane.smugmug.com/Tra...900_n4nMU-A-LB
http://craigandjeane.smugmug.com/Tra...900_n4nMU-A-LB
Feb 27th, 2011, 07:13 PM
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Great to read your report and that your enjoying your visit to Sri Lanka, pity you did not make it to the top because that last bit, though it looks scary is actually easier than many other places and also quite a short distance compared to the main climb up to the lions paw. I do understand the fear of heights. Tell me, how was your Sigriya Guide? Was he knowledgeable and did he speak English well enough for you to communicate and understand. We are trying to uplift the quality of guides and have an islandwide spoken English development programme and your feedback will be interesting.
Seems you are quite facinated by the flora/fauna. Is your afternoon jeep trip to Minneriya or Kaudulla? It's not the best season for large herds of elephants but you should always see some in Minneriya park. Wilpattu park is now open and it is very very beautiful, can see leopard plus many other nice things but it would be about two hours drive from Habarana - very doable and highly reccomend if have the time and you really are into the wildlife nature thing. Perhaps combine with a morning in Anuradhapura ancient city and afternoon in Wilpattu safari. For a Jlocal jeep hire in Wilpattu contact Chaminda on 071 248 1177.
There is a lovely walk on the bund, other side of the lake behind the Cinnamon Lodge - ie where they take the Elephant Rides too - try it if you have time closer to sunset. Also the Ritigala visit and climb is beautiful.
Look out for fying squirrels at night on the large trees, back of the hotel near the waters edge. If you shine a torch you wuill see their eyes reflect back. Amazing how they "fly" from tree to tree in the dark.
Seems you are quite facinated by the flora/fauna. Is your afternoon jeep trip to Minneriya or Kaudulla? It's not the best season for large herds of elephants but you should always see some in Minneriya park. Wilpattu park is now open and it is very very beautiful, can see leopard plus many other nice things but it would be about two hours drive from Habarana - very doable and highly reccomend if have the time and you really are into the wildlife nature thing. Perhaps combine with a morning in Anuradhapura ancient city and afternoon in Wilpattu safari. For a Jlocal jeep hire in Wilpattu contact Chaminda on 071 248 1177.
There is a lovely walk on the bund, other side of the lake behind the Cinnamon Lodge - ie where they take the Elephant Rides too - try it if you have time closer to sunset. Also the Ritigala visit and climb is beautiful.
Look out for fying squirrels at night on the large trees, back of the hotel near the waters edge. If you shine a torch you wuill see their eyes reflect back. Amazing how they "fly" from tree to tree in the dark.
Feb 27th, 2011, 07:59 PM
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Craig, we devoured your photos for many months before our trip. They are excellent. Yes the view from the top looks wonderful. It's a shame we didn't quite make it. I also printed out your entire trip report and took that with us for reference.
Mohammed, our Sigriya Guide was wonderful. His english was very good and he was most informative. He took us down by a route that very few others were using (most seemed to go up and down the same way), and pointed out lots of interesting bits.
He was also extremely kind and understanding with Lynda when she had her 'Toby moment'.
We did walk one day right through the grounds of Cinnamon Lodge to an adjacent hotel. And yes we could see the elephant rides on the other side of the lake.
Yes we did see loads of flying sqirrels and did exactly what you mention with a torch. I had read before our visit that the grounds were not particularly well lit at night and a torch was advisable so one was in my pocket every night.
For the jeep trip we went to Hurulu Eco Park. It was just much much much more than we expected. Possibly the highlight of the whole trip for me.
But that's the next part of my report and coming soon.
Mohammed, our Sigriya Guide was wonderful. His english was very good and he was most informative. He took us down by a route that very few others were using (most seemed to go up and down the same way), and pointed out lots of interesting bits.
He was also extremely kind and understanding with Lynda when she had her 'Toby moment'.
We did walk one day right through the grounds of Cinnamon Lodge to an adjacent hotel. And yes we could see the elephant rides on the other side of the lake.
Yes we did see loads of flying sqirrels and did exactly what you mention with a torch. I had read before our visit that the grounds were not particularly well lit at night and a torch was advisable so one was in my pocket every night.
For the jeep trip we went to Hurulu Eco Park. It was just much much much more than we expected. Possibly the highlight of the whole trip for me.
But that's the next part of my report and coming soon.
