Cambodia & Vietnam, a life changing journey.
Apr 21st, 2012, 07:55 PM
#22
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sf7307 I think you may be right.
Up at 4.30am for our 5am pickup, it takes about 20minutes to get out to Angkor Wat from the Hotel, just awesome to be out and about at that time of day. Lovely time of day to be riding a Tuk Tuk, coolest we’d been the whole visit, I think that’s the key, don’t try and do temples in the middle of the day. Having said that, if you are only there a couple of days you really have to just go with it, heat and all. It was pitch black when we arrived and unfortunately we hadn’t thought to bring our small torches but used our phones for light. Followed the crowd to the edge of the lotus pond to jostle for our position, we did pay a couple of dollars for a mat and an undrinkable cup of coffee. Just awe-inspiring to watch the sun rise behind this magnificent temple, the photos are pretty amazing but probably still don’t do it justice. We spent about two hours wandering around, some of the best photos I have are of through a door way at the ‘back’ of the temple once the sun had actually risen, beautiful! We spent another 15-20 mins back at the lotus pond to take more photos, eat our small picnic that the hotel provided (pastries & fruit) and people watch for a while. It was really starting to warm up, sigh.
Met up with Panyay and started the very long ride out to Beng Mealea, in retrospect it really is too far In a Tuk Tuk but it sure was an experience. The ride out took about 2 hours, through numerous villages and past drying tapioca, it was so hot we were dipping face washers (borrowed from the hotel) into the ice water in the small esky that Panyay had and just continually wiping our faces and wrapping them around our necks. We had just passed through one small village when we heard the chug chug of a motor bike running out of petrol!! OH NO. We had passed so many stands selling soft drink bottles of fuel, we figured the walk wouldn’t be too long but once we’d stopped and there was no breeze generated by the moving tuk tuk it was incredibly hot. But not to panic, Panyay was on his trusty phone and called David & Sues Tuk Tuk which was ahead of us and they returned with fuel, much laughing and silliness. Beng Mealea really is pretty special and we were surprised how many people were out there but certainly not as many as the other temples. Spent about an hour wandering around and then we all decided it was time to head back to that wonderful swimming pool. The ride back was easier, we travelled on mostly paved roads and it took about 1.5hours. Can’t begin to describe how good that pool felt!
Sue & I spent the afternoon at the spa, firstly having our complimentary 30 minute foot and lower leg massage and then $9 facials. Felt really rejuvenated. Dinner was to be our complimentary meal at the hotel but by early evening David & I were both not well, long story short a couple of hours of vomiting was not how we planned to spend our last night in Siem Reap. Sue & Stephen went on to have the dinner but both said they weren’t feeling right either. Although worrying that it might drag on a bit and apart from feeling really washed out the next day that was really the only hiccup of the trip.
Next our really special Mekong Cruise begins.
Up at 4.30am for our 5am pickup, it takes about 20minutes to get out to Angkor Wat from the Hotel, just awesome to be out and about at that time of day. Lovely time of day to be riding a Tuk Tuk, coolest we’d been the whole visit, I think that’s the key, don’t try and do temples in the middle of the day. Having said that, if you are only there a couple of days you really have to just go with it, heat and all. It was pitch black when we arrived and unfortunately we hadn’t thought to bring our small torches but used our phones for light. Followed the crowd to the edge of the lotus pond to jostle for our position, we did pay a couple of dollars for a mat and an undrinkable cup of coffee. Just awe-inspiring to watch the sun rise behind this magnificent temple, the photos are pretty amazing but probably still don’t do it justice. We spent about two hours wandering around, some of the best photos I have are of through a door way at the ‘back’ of the temple once the sun had actually risen, beautiful! We spent another 15-20 mins back at the lotus pond to take more photos, eat our small picnic that the hotel provided (pastries & fruit) and people watch for a while. It was really starting to warm up, sigh.
Met up with Panyay and started the very long ride out to Beng Mealea, in retrospect it really is too far In a Tuk Tuk but it sure was an experience. The ride out took about 2 hours, through numerous villages and past drying tapioca, it was so hot we were dipping face washers (borrowed from the hotel) into the ice water in the small esky that Panyay had and just continually wiping our faces and wrapping them around our necks. We had just passed through one small village when we heard the chug chug of a motor bike running out of petrol!! OH NO. We had passed so many stands selling soft drink bottles of fuel, we figured the walk wouldn’t be too long but once we’d stopped and there was no breeze generated by the moving tuk tuk it was incredibly hot. But not to panic, Panyay was on his trusty phone and called David & Sues Tuk Tuk which was ahead of us and they returned with fuel, much laughing and silliness. Beng Mealea really is pretty special and we were surprised how many people were out there but certainly not as many as the other temples. Spent about an hour wandering around and then we all decided it was time to head back to that wonderful swimming pool. The ride back was easier, we travelled on mostly paved roads and it took about 1.5hours. Can’t begin to describe how good that pool felt!
Sue & I spent the afternoon at the spa, firstly having our complimentary 30 minute foot and lower leg massage and then $9 facials. Felt really rejuvenated. Dinner was to be our complimentary meal at the hotel but by early evening David & I were both not well, long story short a couple of hours of vomiting was not how we planned to spend our last night in Siem Reap. Sue & Stephen went on to have the dinner but both said they weren’t feeling right either. Although worrying that it might drag on a bit and apart from feeling really washed out the next day that was really the only hiccup of the trip.
Next our really special Mekong Cruise begins.
Apr 22nd, 2012, 06:22 AM
#23
Continuing to enjoy reading your TR. I was always amazed how our driver found us after visiting a temple or a site. Also found that the other drivers would know who our driver was and point out to us where he might be if there wasn't that instantaneous finding one another. From reading your report it sounds like we really missed some great restaurants in SR. Weren't the foot massages just fabulous. I got addicted to them.
Apr 22nd, 2012, 04:57 PM
#24
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The tuk tuk men will always find you! I find the Russian Market in Phnom Penh the worst. I always get lost in there and have to walk round the outside looking. There's always a friendly smile and wave as he comes to collect me.
Sorry to hear that you got sick but glad you enjoyed Siem Reap. Do you think it was dodgy food or the heat?
Sorry to hear that you got sick but glad you enjoyed Siem Reap. Do you think it was dodgy food or the heat?
Apr 23rd, 2012, 04:50 AM
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I was also interested in your comments on the heat. I'm from Victoria and revel in the climate. However I go in June-July to see my daughter every year and she always says March April are the worst months in SR.
Glad you enjoyed Cambodia anyway.
Glad you enjoyed Cambodia anyway.
Apr 24th, 2012, 08:34 PM
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<b>7 Nights on the Mighty Mekong</b>
<u>Kampong Cham to Kampong Chhnang</u>
We chose the Jahan, the booking of this cruise pretty much shaped the rest of the trip, we didn’t book ‘till January this year so were very limited with availability. We may not have gone quite so ‘upmarket’ if we’d had more choices but we are so glad we booked this cruise. For me, the absolute highlight of our trip!!
We bid farewell to the wonderful Golden Temple Hotel staff and were picked up and taken to the Angkor Victoria Hotel, the meeting place for the transfer to Kampong Cham where the boat was waiting for us. It’s a long drive, about 5 hours and this is due to the time of year, low water levels. We were told we’d be stopping at Skuon (Spiderville) village on the way and really still don’t know why we didn’t. We did stop off at a rubber plant plantation, which was interesting and somewhere for a ‘packed’ lunch/toilet break. Arriving at the boat really was exciting, we’ve never done any cruising or any organised travel and although I’m not converted to organised travel/tours this was really great. Boarding was interesting, down a steep embankment and across a gang plank, the staff took care of our luggage which is just as well. Welcome drinks and snack, meet and greet with the staff, a lovely little concert by a local orphanage/school and then shown to our really lovely rooms. All glass, so the views were wonderful, big comfy bed, sitting area and a good size bathroom. But oh dear the best bit…………………a coffee machine!! I was so happy; it really made a huge difference for me, a nice way to start the day. I was to learn the coffee I disliked so much at the Golden Temple was in fact ‘Vietnamese’ coffee, thick, strong and sweet and it was served on the boat as well.
The first excursion of the trip was to Wat Nokor, it had been a big day already and we had pretty much seen our share of ‘Wats’, so we opted to miss this one and just take some time to settle in and relax and we did take a walk around the busy town of Kampong Cham, except Dave who was still feeling unwell. Actually only about half of the 46 passengers took this excursion. One strange thing did happen: we were walking back to our cabins to get ready for dinner, when we noticed that quite a few rooms had shoes sitting outside. We were really puzzled; we wondered if we’d missed some instruction on shoe etiquette? Dinner was a really delicious Asian Buffet that was so lovely; we knew then that the food on this trip was going to be awesome. And the dining room was really great, everyone settled into little groups etc. quite funny to watch the dynamics. Each night there was the option of a film but we barely made it through dinner each night before collapsing into our comfy beds. I don’t think I ever got tired of just looking out the window at the ever changing scenery. We did have a balcony that we used a couple of times but it really was too hot and sticky for being out if you didn’t need to be.
After an absolutely delicious breakfast, Stephen & Dave liked the omelette station a lot and Sue loved the Phos, we headed out in the rain on our first excursion. Leaving the boat was always interesting, sometimes straight onto smaller boats, others the crew built make shift gang planks if we could get close enough to the bank. Only in Phnom Penh and again at the end in My Tho did we actually have a ‘proper’ dock but it was never a hassle and even the ‘oldies’ on board had no problems, the staff was always on hand to help if needed. Arriving back to the boat, the shoe thing became clear. Every time we went on an excursion, we were welcomed back on board by the crew, with cold water, hand sanitizer, cold face washer AND they took our shoes and washed them. How awesome, they would put a small peg with the room number on the shoes and by the time you’d showered and freshened up your shoes were at the door. Lovely little touch as we really did walk through some interesting places.
We visited Wat Hanchey, walking along the road side and up 303 steps well I must admit the others did that, I jumped on the back of a motor bike and had a great ride to the top. It wasn’t a difficult walk but it was such fun going up on a bike. The Wat was interesting enough but the views back to the river and the walk back down were great, especially as we ended up with quite a little crowd of kids. Back on board we were visited by two monks, who offered us a blessing and their chanting was amazing, followed by another great lunch and one of my favourite excursions to the village Angkor Ban. This is one of the few villages that were not destroyed by the Khmer Rouge, it was wonderful to see this working village and its people. There was a small market where the ladies were buying provisions for dinner, Oh dear, the things we saw!! Some I absolutely could not identify. They were so friendly and so happy to see us, it was an absolute joy.
When we got back on board, the boat moved to a small sand island where we all got off to have drinks and canapés on the ‘beach’ to watch the sun go down. The crew put on a dance presentation and then taught us all how to do some traditional dances. A really fun night, followed by an awesome dinner, this time a set menu.
Fish Tartar
Winter melon & pea soup
Mango sorget
Grilled fish, mash & snow peas
Crepe suzettes
While we were asleep this night the boat sailed from Agkor Ban to Kampong Chhnag, past Phnom Pehn.
<u>Kampong Cham to Kampong Chhnang</u>
We chose the Jahan, the booking of this cruise pretty much shaped the rest of the trip, we didn’t book ‘till January this year so were very limited with availability. We may not have gone quite so ‘upmarket’ if we’d had more choices but we are so glad we booked this cruise. For me, the absolute highlight of our trip!!
We bid farewell to the wonderful Golden Temple Hotel staff and were picked up and taken to the Angkor Victoria Hotel, the meeting place for the transfer to Kampong Cham where the boat was waiting for us. It’s a long drive, about 5 hours and this is due to the time of year, low water levels. We were told we’d be stopping at Skuon (Spiderville) village on the way and really still don’t know why we didn’t. We did stop off at a rubber plant plantation, which was interesting and somewhere for a ‘packed’ lunch/toilet break. Arriving at the boat really was exciting, we’ve never done any cruising or any organised travel and although I’m not converted to organised travel/tours this was really great. Boarding was interesting, down a steep embankment and across a gang plank, the staff took care of our luggage which is just as well. Welcome drinks and snack, meet and greet with the staff, a lovely little concert by a local orphanage/school and then shown to our really lovely rooms. All glass, so the views were wonderful, big comfy bed, sitting area and a good size bathroom. But oh dear the best bit…………………a coffee machine!! I was so happy; it really made a huge difference for me, a nice way to start the day. I was to learn the coffee I disliked so much at the Golden Temple was in fact ‘Vietnamese’ coffee, thick, strong and sweet and it was served on the boat as well.
The first excursion of the trip was to Wat Nokor, it had been a big day already and we had pretty much seen our share of ‘Wats’, so we opted to miss this one and just take some time to settle in and relax and we did take a walk around the busy town of Kampong Cham, except Dave who was still feeling unwell. Actually only about half of the 46 passengers took this excursion. One strange thing did happen: we were walking back to our cabins to get ready for dinner, when we noticed that quite a few rooms had shoes sitting outside. We were really puzzled; we wondered if we’d missed some instruction on shoe etiquette? Dinner was a really delicious Asian Buffet that was so lovely; we knew then that the food on this trip was going to be awesome. And the dining room was really great, everyone settled into little groups etc. quite funny to watch the dynamics. Each night there was the option of a film but we barely made it through dinner each night before collapsing into our comfy beds. I don’t think I ever got tired of just looking out the window at the ever changing scenery. We did have a balcony that we used a couple of times but it really was too hot and sticky for being out if you didn’t need to be.
After an absolutely delicious breakfast, Stephen & Dave liked the omelette station a lot and Sue loved the Phos, we headed out in the rain on our first excursion. Leaving the boat was always interesting, sometimes straight onto smaller boats, others the crew built make shift gang planks if we could get close enough to the bank. Only in Phnom Penh and again at the end in My Tho did we actually have a ‘proper’ dock but it was never a hassle and even the ‘oldies’ on board had no problems, the staff was always on hand to help if needed. Arriving back to the boat, the shoe thing became clear. Every time we went on an excursion, we were welcomed back on board by the crew, with cold water, hand sanitizer, cold face washer AND they took our shoes and washed them. How awesome, they would put a small peg with the room number on the shoes and by the time you’d showered and freshened up your shoes were at the door. Lovely little touch as we really did walk through some interesting places.
We visited Wat Hanchey, walking along the road side and up 303 steps well I must admit the others did that, I jumped on the back of a motor bike and had a great ride to the top. It wasn’t a difficult walk but it was such fun going up on a bike. The Wat was interesting enough but the views back to the river and the walk back down were great, especially as we ended up with quite a little crowd of kids. Back on board we were visited by two monks, who offered us a blessing and their chanting was amazing, followed by another great lunch and one of my favourite excursions to the village Angkor Ban. This is one of the few villages that were not destroyed by the Khmer Rouge, it was wonderful to see this working village and its people. There was a small market where the ladies were buying provisions for dinner, Oh dear, the things we saw!! Some I absolutely could not identify. They were so friendly and so happy to see us, it was an absolute joy.
When we got back on board, the boat moved to a small sand island where we all got off to have drinks and canapés on the ‘beach’ to watch the sun go down. The crew put on a dance presentation and then taught us all how to do some traditional dances. A really fun night, followed by an awesome dinner, this time a set menu.
Fish Tartar
Winter melon & pea soup
Mango sorget
Grilled fish, mash & snow peas
Crepe suzettes
While we were asleep this night the boat sailed from Agkor Ban to Kampong Chhnag, past Phnom Pehn.
Apr 25th, 2012, 10:59 PM
#32
I believe it's a Vietnamese, Sok Kong, and his company Sokimex Corp. Coincidentally, he is a very good friend of Prime minister Hun Sen.
Apparently, they only sell tickets and have security guards to make sure no foreigners slip in without passes. Restoration & maintenance is done by other countries' NGOs. Apparently Sokimex paid the Cambodian something like $1 million out of the $75 million or so they collected in a recent year.
Same with the Phnom Bokor national park. Laws were passed to protect the site, but then the government gave a cheap 99 year lease to Sokimex to build a huge resort, bars, casino and hundreds of private villas.
It must be nice doing business like that!
Apparently, they only sell tickets and have security guards to make sure no foreigners slip in without passes. Restoration & maintenance is done by other countries' NGOs. Apparently Sokimex paid the Cambodian something like $1 million out of the $75 million or so they collected in a recent year.
Same with the Phnom Bokor national park. Laws were passed to protect the site, but then the government gave a cheap 99 year lease to Sokimex to build a huge resort, bars, casino and hundreds of private villas.
It must be nice doing business like that!
Apr 25th, 2012, 11:01 PM
#33
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Not sure witold. I do wish I had mentioned the dress code at the temples of Angkor. We were reminded often by the hotel staff that we would need to dress appropriately, covered shoulders and knees, which we did. But I don't know where this was being enforced, if it was. We saw many, mostly young women who we thought really were inappropriate.
<b>Kampong Chhnag to Phnom Penh</b>
After breakfast the next morning we boarded small boats to the very lively market town of Kampong Chhnag, past some amazing floating villages and markets. It’s funny how quickly you get used to seeing such amazing things. We boarded some small vans and drove about 20minutes into the country side to the pottery village of Aundaung Russey. Again despite the intense heat this village was a real highlight for me, we watched this lovely young girl of about 15 who was making these amazing earthen wear water jugs, by hand with no real tools and certainly no spinning pottery table. She was the prettiest, friendliest young girl with the most infectious smile; she had been doing this he whole life and made it look very easy. We were able to purchase smaller (miniature actually) pots to take with us, I bought a water jug and a pot c/w lid and it cost me $1. The young girl and her family happily posed for photos with their amazing work and then we got to walk around their village, it really was a privilege. We were also given a demonstration by an amazing lady on how they make ‘toffee’, they stir the palm sugar over heat for the longest time and it sets into what I can only describe as ‘toffee’. Nothing seemed ‘set up’; they were just going about their lives with us watching on. Then a man of 70+ proceeded to climb the palm trees, what an amazing man and so funny. Once he was at the top he was hanging on with one arm and waving and laughing at us.
When we arrived back in the village the vans stopped on one of the street and we were able to walk the full length of the market back to the waiting small boats. What fun, I don’t think there would be anything food or otherwise that you could not buy, simply amazing. Back to the ship via the floating villages, for another incredible lunch and a rest as we sailed towards Kampong Tralach for the afternoon excursion.
This one was really special, I know I keep saying it but they kept exceeding my expectations. We walked around the village for a while then we visited a local school. Just a joy but I have to admit I was a little emotional while we were there, I’m not really sure I know why. I just felt kinda sad, the heat in this small brick building was absolutely oppressive and they had ‘nothing’ but having said that, they all looked so happy. Then came the real treat, while we were at the village the boat had moved to a different location and we had to go about 3 or 4 km’s through rice paddies and beautiful lotus ponds and the best bit? We all got to ride in an Ox cart, so much fun, two to a cart so we looked like a convoy of Ox carts and all this while the sun was beginning to set on this really special part of the world.
I know we had a lovely dinner because I wrote “YUM” in my journal but I failed to write down what we ate. We stayed up for the movie as did most of the passenger, it was The Killing Fields. I had intended to watch it before we left home, so was pleased to be able to watch it as we would be visiting Phnom Penh the next day.
<b>Kampong Chhnag to Phnom Penh</b>
After breakfast the next morning we boarded small boats to the very lively market town of Kampong Chhnag, past some amazing floating villages and markets. It’s funny how quickly you get used to seeing such amazing things. We boarded some small vans and drove about 20minutes into the country side to the pottery village of Aundaung Russey. Again despite the intense heat this village was a real highlight for me, we watched this lovely young girl of about 15 who was making these amazing earthen wear water jugs, by hand with no real tools and certainly no spinning pottery table. She was the prettiest, friendliest young girl with the most infectious smile; she had been doing this he whole life and made it look very easy. We were able to purchase smaller (miniature actually) pots to take with us, I bought a water jug and a pot c/w lid and it cost me $1. The young girl and her family happily posed for photos with their amazing work and then we got to walk around their village, it really was a privilege. We were also given a demonstration by an amazing lady on how they make ‘toffee’, they stir the palm sugar over heat for the longest time and it sets into what I can only describe as ‘toffee’. Nothing seemed ‘set up’; they were just going about their lives with us watching on. Then a man of 70+ proceeded to climb the palm trees, what an amazing man and so funny. Once he was at the top he was hanging on with one arm and waving and laughing at us.
When we arrived back in the village the vans stopped on one of the street and we were able to walk the full length of the market back to the waiting small boats. What fun, I don’t think there would be anything food or otherwise that you could not buy, simply amazing. Back to the ship via the floating villages, for another incredible lunch and a rest as we sailed towards Kampong Tralach for the afternoon excursion.
This one was really special, I know I keep saying it but they kept exceeding my expectations. We walked around the village for a while then we visited a local school. Just a joy but I have to admit I was a little emotional while we were there, I’m not really sure I know why. I just felt kinda sad, the heat in this small brick building was absolutely oppressive and they had ‘nothing’ but having said that, they all looked so happy. Then came the real treat, while we were at the village the boat had moved to a different location and we had to go about 3 or 4 km’s through rice paddies and beautiful lotus ponds and the best bit? We all got to ride in an Ox cart, so much fun, two to a cart so we looked like a convoy of Ox carts and all this while the sun was beginning to set on this really special part of the world.
I know we had a lovely dinner because I wrote “YUM” in my journal but I failed to write down what we ate. We stayed up for the movie as did most of the passenger, it was The Killing Fields. I had intended to watch it before we left home, so was pleased to be able to watch it as we would be visiting Phnom Penh the next day.
Apr 28th, 2012, 07:23 PM
#34
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<b>Phnom Pehn</b>
This day was to be a full day in the city but we’d bought a suitcase full of clothes & toys and had organised a visit to a local hospital in the afternoon which meant we only missed the National Museum. The tour started with a 20 minute cyclo ride, what fun once you got used to the ‘traffic’, a great way to see the city. We then went to the Royal Palace & Silver Pagoda both really beautiful and I have some terrific photos. Before we knew it Percey (one of the awesome staff from the boat) came to tell us our car was there. He’d organised a driver to take us to the hospital, we drove back via the boat where one of the staff was waiting with our bag of goodies (such great service) and off we went. Sue is a nurse and was really interested in seeing either an orphanage or hospital with the view to maybe going back as a volunteer. I can’t seem to find the name of the hospital but we were met by a young American lady who has been there for 3 years. She showed us around the hospital and then took us into the physio building where we met some amazing children and their mums. That visit will forever be in my memory and is the reason this TR is called a Life Changing Journey. One little boy that stands out in my memory was in hospital for the countless time having more surgery on a cleft palate, I’m going to guess he was about 4 but could have been older. We’d found in our bag a very brightly coloured shirt and had given it to him, we noticed he went straight back to his mum and folded it neatly and sat there holding it in his lap with the biggest smile on his face. A little while later I noticed him tugging on his mums arm and asking something, I asked the American lady what it was he was after. He had asked if we may also have a pair of shorts that would fit him to go with his shirt. We found that pair of shorts in quick time I can tell you, he then folded them and put together with his shirt, we learned he was ‘saving’ them for the big festival that was to happen the next month, he’d never had ‘new’ clothes before.
One really sad/eye opening thing that happened at the hospital was, while we were waiting for our escort a van pulled in. In the back there were easily 10 people half of which were covered in bandages but had obvious terrible burns, each one had a minder who was carrying their intravenous drip for them. It was such a terrible scene and as we had guessed but hoped we were wrong, their injuries were due to a landmine. Call me naive but I had no idea that this was ‘still’ an issue; it really did break our hearts.
We then met back up with our fellow passengers for lunch, before the afternoon excursions to The Killing Fields & S21, it sure was a full but very moving day. Lunch was a set menu at the Malis restaurant and it was just lovely.
We ate;
Squid with mint salad
Sour fish Soup with Thnoeng leaves
Fried mixed vegetable
Fish Amok
Vegetables Fried rice
Stuffed roast pork fillet
Malis Signature mousse
And let me tell you, if we were in Phnom Penh independently we would’ve gone back, it was just delightful. We then took a bus to the Killing Fields stopping briefly at the Russian Markets which was fun. The Killing Fields were different to what I’d imagined, I’m not sure what that was exactly but a very moving place. Just to walk around reading the signs and trying to imagine how this terrible thing could happen. The monument housing all the skulls is just incredible to stand there and imagine what these poor people went through, the heat this day was very nearly unbearable but in comparison, no complaints. We found the small museum really interesting, to read some stories and see some items that have been and are still being uncovered.
We were then given the option of going back to the Russian Market or going on to S21 - Tuol Sleng Museum of Genocide, most people did come but a few opted out. This former high school was for me more intense than the Killing Fields, what a terrible terrible thing and so very good that it’s been kept. If you go, especially as part of a tour, break away from the group and wander through the rooms on your own. We did and found we covered more ground than the group who mostly missed out on the last building with photos and stories of individuals, so very moving. Plus walking through on your own, (we didn’t stay together as we were all stopping at different exhibits) gives you more time to really reflect. What an incredible place and I feel bad that we don’t really know enough of this time, when I think that I was a carefree young teenager when this happened.
Dinner was a beautiful Cambodian BBQ on the main deck, which was lovely with the backdrop of Phnom Penh’s city lights and an Apsara dance performance. We opted out of the lecture being offered by a local French professor on the history of Cambodia and instead took advantage of being at port and went for a great wander around the city. It was a huge day but gratifying and magical.
The next day was our border crossing day, so we couldn’t leave the boat. The crew took care of all formalities and we just had a relaxing day on board, with the highlight being sunset on the deck while we sailed along the narrow Tan Chau canal towards Chau Doc. Our arms were aching from all the waving to the local kids along the way, so great to be this close .
This day was to be a full day in the city but we’d bought a suitcase full of clothes & toys and had organised a visit to a local hospital in the afternoon which meant we only missed the National Museum. The tour started with a 20 minute cyclo ride, what fun once you got used to the ‘traffic’, a great way to see the city. We then went to the Royal Palace & Silver Pagoda both really beautiful and I have some terrific photos. Before we knew it Percey (one of the awesome staff from the boat) came to tell us our car was there. He’d organised a driver to take us to the hospital, we drove back via the boat where one of the staff was waiting with our bag of goodies (such great service) and off we went. Sue is a nurse and was really interested in seeing either an orphanage or hospital with the view to maybe going back as a volunteer. I can’t seem to find the name of the hospital but we were met by a young American lady who has been there for 3 years. She showed us around the hospital and then took us into the physio building where we met some amazing children and their mums. That visit will forever be in my memory and is the reason this TR is called a Life Changing Journey. One little boy that stands out in my memory was in hospital for the countless time having more surgery on a cleft palate, I’m going to guess he was about 4 but could have been older. We’d found in our bag a very brightly coloured shirt and had given it to him, we noticed he went straight back to his mum and folded it neatly and sat there holding it in his lap with the biggest smile on his face. A little while later I noticed him tugging on his mums arm and asking something, I asked the American lady what it was he was after. He had asked if we may also have a pair of shorts that would fit him to go with his shirt. We found that pair of shorts in quick time I can tell you, he then folded them and put together with his shirt, we learned he was ‘saving’ them for the big festival that was to happen the next month, he’d never had ‘new’ clothes before.
One really sad/eye opening thing that happened at the hospital was, while we were waiting for our escort a van pulled in. In the back there were easily 10 people half of which were covered in bandages but had obvious terrible burns, each one had a minder who was carrying their intravenous drip for them. It was such a terrible scene and as we had guessed but hoped we were wrong, their injuries were due to a landmine. Call me naive but I had no idea that this was ‘still’ an issue; it really did break our hearts.
We then met back up with our fellow passengers for lunch, before the afternoon excursions to The Killing Fields & S21, it sure was a full but very moving day. Lunch was a set menu at the Malis restaurant and it was just lovely.
We ate;
Squid with mint salad
Sour fish Soup with Thnoeng leaves
Fried mixed vegetable
Fish Amok
Vegetables Fried rice
Stuffed roast pork fillet
Malis Signature mousse
And let me tell you, if we were in Phnom Penh independently we would’ve gone back, it was just delightful. We then took a bus to the Killing Fields stopping briefly at the Russian Markets which was fun. The Killing Fields were different to what I’d imagined, I’m not sure what that was exactly but a very moving place. Just to walk around reading the signs and trying to imagine how this terrible thing could happen. The monument housing all the skulls is just incredible to stand there and imagine what these poor people went through, the heat this day was very nearly unbearable but in comparison, no complaints. We found the small museum really interesting, to read some stories and see some items that have been and are still being uncovered.
We were then given the option of going back to the Russian Market or going on to S21 - Tuol Sleng Museum of Genocide, most people did come but a few opted out. This former high school was for me more intense than the Killing Fields, what a terrible terrible thing and so very good that it’s been kept. If you go, especially as part of a tour, break away from the group and wander through the rooms on your own. We did and found we covered more ground than the group who mostly missed out on the last building with photos and stories of individuals, so very moving. Plus walking through on your own, (we didn’t stay together as we were all stopping at different exhibits) gives you more time to really reflect. What an incredible place and I feel bad that we don’t really know enough of this time, when I think that I was a carefree young teenager when this happened.
Dinner was a beautiful Cambodian BBQ on the main deck, which was lovely with the backdrop of Phnom Penh’s city lights and an Apsara dance performance. We opted out of the lecture being offered by a local French professor on the history of Cambodia and instead took advantage of being at port and went for a great wander around the city. It was a huge day but gratifying and magical.
The next day was our border crossing day, so we couldn’t leave the boat. The crew took care of all formalities and we just had a relaxing day on board, with the highlight being sunset on the deck while we sailed along the narrow Tan Chau canal towards Chau Doc. Our arms were aching from all the waving to the local kids along the way, so great to be this close .
Apr 29th, 2012, 12:42 AM
#35
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A great report, loving the detail! Phnom Penh is one of my favourite cities in Asia. Seems such a shame that many bypass it in favour of Siem Reap.
Like you, I too found Tuol Sleng and the Killing Fields extremely moving but in different ways. Tuol Sleng was a chilling place and the simple "passport style" photos of the victims with expressions varying from complete terror to complete hopelesness said more than words ever could and . The Killing fields seemed alomost peaceful by comparison.
Looking back to the 70s, it now seems incredible that the world largely ignored the terrible plight of the Cambodian people.
Thankfully the cambodian people now seem to have put this era in ther history behind them and are moving forward at last. lets hope the rest of teh world helps rather than takes advantage as is so often the case.
Like you, I too found Tuol Sleng and the Killing Fields extremely moving but in different ways. Tuol Sleng was a chilling place and the simple "passport style" photos of the victims with expressions varying from complete terror to complete hopelesness said more than words ever could and . The Killing fields seemed alomost peaceful by comparison.
Looking back to the 70s, it now seems incredible that the world largely ignored the terrible plight of the Cambodian people.
Thankfully the cambodian people now seem to have put this era in ther history behind them and are moving forward at last. lets hope the rest of teh world helps rather than takes advantage as is so often the case.
Apr 29th, 2012, 06:19 PM
#36
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Thanks for following along crellston and I'm glad you are enjoying the detail, I try not to 'go' on but its hard when the place was so amazing.
<b>Chau Doc – Sadec</b>
After the border crossing formalities we sailed towards Chau Doc, on to Sampans nice and early the next morning and headed into the bustling market. I do love these markets and this was a particularly good one, we only had a brief glimpse before we hopped onto our rickshaws for a 20minute ride. So much fun, our drivers/riders were so funny and we have lots of awesome photos. Then it was back to the market for about 30 mins on our own and didn’t we make the most of it, the colours, sounds and smells were amazing. Back on to the sampans and off to a local fish farm, woh that was incredible, not sure how to describe it but what a hard life they seem to have, living with their fish, oh and the smell of the fish food was unforgettable!!
After lunch we sailed to Sadec stopping off at a local chilli farm to visit the family that run it. I know I keep saying it but it was just amazing. Spent time just wandering around, some folk walked across the ‘Monkey Bridge’ which was just a bridge made up of flimsy pieces of timber strung together, I passed, but the others all did it. We then got to have a cup of tea with the farmer and his family in their home. He’s a bit of a guitar player, so we got some entertainment, just terrific. The kids here were so much fun, no asking for anything, they just wanted to be with us. Another wonderful day.
<b>Sadec – Cai Be</b>
Another great sampan ride to Sadec this time on a really narrow part of the river, which made it so interesting, to be able to see into the houses and shops was just great. Had a walk through the village and listened to some amazing stories from an elderly man & woman, could’ve listened to them for hours. More wandering until Stephen noticed one of the guys from the cruise getting a haircut by a local. So in he went, it took over 30 minutes (he doesn’t have much hair!) and he had the best haircut and shave with a cut throat blade, he’s ever had and all for 50 cents. The crew said this had never happened before and said they will tell passengers from now on that they can get a good haircut. I must say it was a real highlight, so much laughing. We sailed back to the boat past a huge Hyacinth farm, it must look incredible when they are in bloom.
While having lunch we sailed to Cai Be for our final excursion a 40 minute cruise through an amazing floating market to the small village of Phu An, where we saw them making all manner of rice products. I even got to try my hand at making rice paper, not as easy as they made it look. Tasted some beautiful rice puffs mixed with a sticky toffee, very more-ish and of course rice wine.
This was our last night and the crew put on a fantastic farewell party, much dancing singing eating and drinking, just a great way to end a wonderful cruise. The next morning after breakfast we left the boat, it had been such a magnificent part of our holiday and I’m so happy we did it, did and saw things that we’d never have done on our own. The crew waved us off and we were on our way on coaches towards HCMC, about a 70km drive.
Next amazing HCMC and a really great hotel.
<b>Chau Doc – Sadec</b>
After the border crossing formalities we sailed towards Chau Doc, on to Sampans nice and early the next morning and headed into the bustling market. I do love these markets and this was a particularly good one, we only had a brief glimpse before we hopped onto our rickshaws for a 20minute ride. So much fun, our drivers/riders were so funny and we have lots of awesome photos. Then it was back to the market for about 30 mins on our own and didn’t we make the most of it, the colours, sounds and smells were amazing. Back on to the sampans and off to a local fish farm, woh that was incredible, not sure how to describe it but what a hard life they seem to have, living with their fish, oh and the smell of the fish food was unforgettable!!
After lunch we sailed to Sadec stopping off at a local chilli farm to visit the family that run it. I know I keep saying it but it was just amazing. Spent time just wandering around, some folk walked across the ‘Monkey Bridge’ which was just a bridge made up of flimsy pieces of timber strung together, I passed, but the others all did it. We then got to have a cup of tea with the farmer and his family in their home. He’s a bit of a guitar player, so we got some entertainment, just terrific. The kids here were so much fun, no asking for anything, they just wanted to be with us. Another wonderful day.
<b>Sadec – Cai Be</b>
Another great sampan ride to Sadec this time on a really narrow part of the river, which made it so interesting, to be able to see into the houses and shops was just great. Had a walk through the village and listened to some amazing stories from an elderly man & woman, could’ve listened to them for hours. More wandering until Stephen noticed one of the guys from the cruise getting a haircut by a local. So in he went, it took over 30 minutes (he doesn’t have much hair!) and he had the best haircut and shave with a cut throat blade, he’s ever had and all for 50 cents. The crew said this had never happened before and said they will tell passengers from now on that they can get a good haircut. I must say it was a real highlight, so much laughing. We sailed back to the boat past a huge Hyacinth farm, it must look incredible when they are in bloom.
While having lunch we sailed to Cai Be for our final excursion a 40 minute cruise through an amazing floating market to the small village of Phu An, where we saw them making all manner of rice products. I even got to try my hand at making rice paper, not as easy as they made it look. Tasted some beautiful rice puffs mixed with a sticky toffee, very more-ish and of course rice wine.
This was our last night and the crew put on a fantastic farewell party, much dancing singing eating and drinking, just a great way to end a wonderful cruise. The next morning after breakfast we left the boat, it had been such a magnificent part of our holiday and I’m so happy we did it, did and saw things that we’d never have done on our own. The crew waved us off and we were on our way on coaches towards HCMC, about a 70km drive.
Next amazing HCMC and a really great hotel.
May 1st, 2012, 04:04 AM
#39
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I'm also loving it. You travel at a different level to me (I'm very much an elderly backpacker) but appreciate a lot of the same things about Cambodia. Its a fantastic country. If you ever get back, try a few of the less touristy parts for a different experience. Battangbang springs to mind.
