Burma or Central Java ?
 

We are planning our 2006 trip to SEA including BKK (again & again!), Laos (Luang Prabang), Phuket, and... We are wondering the possibility of adding 4/5 nights in Burma (Yangoon, Bagan, Mandalay) OR Central Java (Yogykarta and surrounding temples), considering that we liked temples&cultural sites and that last year we enjoyed Angkor so much!. Pls. advice considering> a) easy to get flight into, b)overall experience, c)worth historical sites, d)other activities (e.g. crafts and antiques shopping), e)safety, etc. Your feedback will be v.m. appreciated..

we spent 5 days in yangon and surrounding area and had plenty to do...we did not go upcountry which in some cases takes longer...

we took thai air from bkk...

we had a driver for the whole time...i have a good one if you are interested...

Just back from a similar trip to Yangon, Bagan & Mandalay. First time in Bagan, although I've been to the others before. My observation would be that 4/5 days is to short for this. I could easily have spent this in Bagan alone (and probably will in the future).

For the amount of time you have, Yogya would be the better bet. Don't miss Solo and the 'rude' temples in the hills around it. They're not in a lot of books, but are worth the visit.

Central Java is so incredibly beautiful, with volcanoes and the lush landscape and then the great temples and of course the extremely friendly people. It is also quite untouristed, as you can probably tell from this board where it is rarely mentioned, while Burma is quite a frequent topic. I would definitely vote for you to go there. You may feel somewhat safer in Burma (how can you not, with the army controlling everything), but you will have a great experience.

Burma is one of the great travel destinations in the world. While Borobdur, etc. is great Burma is like traveling back in time. It's like I imagine Thailand to be 50-100 years ago.

I live in Indonesia and travel to central Java frequently. I've also been to Burma (albeit several years back) and went to Rangoon and Pagan (old names shows how long ago it was). I'm having a hard time articulating a direct comparison between the two places as the culture and ambience are so different. Both have fascinating histories and warm and hospitible people.

Burma/Myanmar is Buddhist culture, where as someone said time stopped 50 years ago. Rangoon has a kind of crumbling charm and Pagan is stunning. You would need to fly from place to place, though which would severely cut into your time on the ground.

Central Java is profoundly beautiful and although millions of people live there is relatively undeveloped. The culture is Islamic, introverted and refined.

I have been to Borobudur dozens of times and consider it a deeply spiritual place; however, others walk away non-impressed. In comparison to Angor, its disparagers call it "A pile of rocks." There are several other major and many, many minor archeological sites in the area.

Central Java also has a vibrant arts tradition and is a center of dance, performance, batik, handicrafts of all sorts. You have to brave the heat, crowds and pollution of Yogya to experience the palace events and to find the bargains, but as a reward, the hotels are lovely.

Central Java is safe. There is one world class hotel (the Amanjiwo) and several good resorts (the Losari Coffee Plantation and the Yogya Hyatt).I think you could easily fill up 4 days, but for more than that I'd head to Bali.

4-5 days isn't really enough to do more than visit one city in Burma. It is eoungh to visit central Java. I love Borobudor, Prambanam, the Dieng Plateau... Do see the Ramayana ballet while you are there.

Thank you all for your feedback. Actually we are changing our minds regarding our itinerary since both destinations appeal v.m. for us.

Initially we planned to arrive to arrive to BKK and flight next day to (1)Luang Prabang for three nights (Pansea Hotel), then flight to (2) Yangon or Central Java (Yohy or Solo) for four nights, next head to (3) Phuket for around 5 nights mostly relaxing on the JW Marriot, and finally (4) Bangkok for fine dinning and shopping (thinking on the new Hilton or Marriot R&Spa).

However, considering your above comments we are thinking of skipping Luang Prabang and Phuket, to try to do the following:

(1) Arrive into BKK (overnight at Rama Gardens or Asia Airport)
(2) Flight into Yangon stay there for three nights.
(3) Flight into Bagan for one night
(4) Flight back to Yangon for one additional night
(5) return to BKK and fligth to Yogykarta or Solo (pls. advice how to do this)
(6) Stay Central Java for four nights
(7) Flight Java to Bali for four night on the beach (we/ve been in Bali twice, loved it, and thats one of the reasons thinking on Java).
(8) go back to BKK for two nights. END.

Here are some questions>

a) Do you think is doable & enjoyable?

b) Since we are adding some flight time, do think it would be more expensive that our original plan?

c) How easy is to flight from BKK to Yogy/Solo?

d) What do you think of changing Luang Prabang for Yangon, adding Bagan and changing Phuket for Bali ?

e) Bob: do you think Eddie can help me on booking such flights? how can i contact your driver in Yangon? (you may be responsible for us skipping Luang Prabang...since my wife already read your report on that)

Pls. advice and feel free to comment on the above.. Thanks and sorry for the length..

I love central Java, but getting there from Bangkok is not all that easy. You can likely fly from BKK to Jakarta on Garuda (but I try to avaoid Garuda), then change planes and fly to Jogja. You can fly to Singapore then fly Silk Air to Solo. You are increasing your costs substantially by choosing Java.

Logistically, it makes much more sense to stay in the Thailand/Laos/Burma area, and your transport will cost less.

(By the way, I loved LP. Note that Bob didn't do any of the day trips from LP because his back was hurting, so he missed a lot...)

Thai Airways has a morning flight from BKK to Jakarta and an afternoon flight from Jakarta to BKK.

I would reverse the amount of time you have allocated to Yangon and Bagan. I think one night in Yangon is enough, but if you only spend one nght in Bagan you will be frustrated beyond words. If you like temples and cultural sites, you will LOVE Bagan and want at least 2, and preferably 3 nights there. It's one of the most magical, spiritual places I have visited in Asia.

The major attraction in Yangon is Schwedegon Pagoda. In fact, I think it's the ONLY one worth the time. We were so fascinated by it, we went twice in the same day.....in the late afternoon to see the sweeping ritual and the sunset, and then back again at night, when all the tourists are gone and only locals come to pray. In one full day and an overnight, you can see Schwedegon and anything else you find of interest in Yangon. If you are going to Bagan, don't waste any time at Scotts Market. you will find better shopping for crafts "upcountry." In Yangon, try to stay at the Savoy. It's the closest hotel to Schwedegon and we found it charming....it's an old colonial residence that has been converted to a little oasis in the middle of a hot dusty city. We dubbed it the "poor man's Raffles."

The flights from Yangon to Bagan all leave at the crack of dawn, so try to arrive in Yangon as early as possible. That way you will have most of one day and an overnight there.
In Bagan you will want to structrue your days similarly to the way many of us enjoy Siem Riep.....early morning outing to the temples, back to the hotel in the afternoon for a cooling swim and siesta and then out again in the late afternoon. Be sure to make the trip to Mt. Popa. Get your face painted with cooling "thanaka." Certain temples are best for catching incredible views at sunrise and sunset. Your guide can point you the right way. The lacquer factory is really interesting. A boat trip on the Ayerwaddy at sunset is also wonderful.

Laurie, thanks for that information. I should have thought of Thai!

Kathie, I only know this because, as you know, I'm going to both Java and BKK in May. Haven't booked anything yet though. I'm still hoping prices will fall but if they don't soon, I guess I'll have to bite the bullet. In any case, it's nice to be of some help now and then.

In Yangon, the national museum is worth a quick stop, mainly to see the Lion Throne from the old royal palace in Mandalay. It's the only surviving one of the palace's original 9 thrones. The rest were destroyed when the British bombed the palace at the end of WWII. There is also a display of ancient jewelry that might prove interesting.

The museum itself is a bit decrepit, but the throne room will take your breath away.

A further thought: Have to agree that Java is a bit too out of the way considering the rest of your plans. A visit to Java is best combined with a visit to Bali, just an hour's flight away. There is still a lot of culture to see on Bali, once you get away from the beach. Besakih temple is a huge complex rivaling many other religeous sites in SE Asia, and still in active use. There's also the Bali Aga villages, volcanos and a great art culture around Ubud. You could easily spend a two to four week vacation just in Bali and Java.

Then there's Toraja... Too many places, too little time!

I just got back from Myanmar with 9 days covering Yangon, Inle, Bagan and found that it was not enough time. It takes time to get from place to place. With 4 or 5 days, I would suggest staying in Yangon or doing Yangon with 2 days in Bagan. You won't have enough time.

Have not been to Java but will definitely want to do that some day. I think Bagan is a great option especially if you are interested in visiting Borabodur in Java. And if you can swing it, take the sunrise balloon ride. You won't regret it.

Took Bangkok Airways from Bangkok to Yangon and Yangon Airways to Bagan. I would suggest taking Thai both ways and for the an additional charge upgrade to business. Even 1.5 hours flight, using the lounge in Yangon was a nice oasis.

c) How easy is to flight from BKK to Yogy/Solo?
You can either connect through Jakarta or Singapore. There are frequent flights from Jakarta to Yogya and a few from Jakarta to Solo. (Note: Solo is sometimes listed by its full name Surakarta.) There are also non-stops from Singapore to both cities but they are infrequent.

Within Indonesia itself you are best off choosing Garuda. Internationally, there are better choices.

Garuda has three flights a day between Yogya and Bali.

From Solo airport downtown Yogya is about 1.5 hours, Borobudur 2.5 hours. From Yogya airport downtown Yogya is about .5 hour, Borobudur 1.0 hour.

Central Java is a LOT less developed than Bali. There are few upscale resorts or hotels and not so many choices in restaurants. Knowedgeable guides are rare and drivers are frequently lost.

This is, to me, part of what makes it appealing, but at the same time, makes it difficult to plan an itinerary. Aside from the big attractions like Borobudur, Prambanan and the Kratons, what you see and what you do is pretty much experience village life and natural beauty.

In spite of being densely populated (some 40 million people), Central Java is a very quiet, slow moving place. This can be misleading at first as its actually the country's heart of Javanese culture, arts, handicrafts, political power and mysticism. It just takes some patience and persistence to uncover what's there.

Thank you so much for your opinions on this. To many places, to little time... that's the story of life.. Anyhow, I will keep open my options and we will decide considering flight connections and costs. We still want to combine a budist time travel (burma) with Javanesse unique culture. I will keep you posted.

Regarding getting to Central Java from BKK, what do you think of flying to Bali connecting there to Yogykarta and then going back Yogy-DPS-BKK?

Laurieco: if its possible, where are you checking for your flights? I tried some agents but the say that fares promottions for the summer wont be availabe until march..

thanks again..

"Regarding getting to Central Java from BKK, what do you think of flying to Bali connecting there to Yogykarta and then going back Yogy-DPS-BKK?"

I don't see the advantage of the backtracking. Denpasar (Bali) is an hour east of Yogya so you'll have more flight-time and poorer connections than if you connected through Jakarta.

A flight from Jakarta to Yogya to Denpasar and back to Jakarta would be in the US$300-350 range.

We're planning a trip to Bali and have been encour5aged to add Central Java and to stay in locals' villas in Bali. Does anyone have an especially quiet and lovely villa to recommend for 2 people in either location? Is air conditioning important-we'll be there at the end of January?
ceili

ceili, let me suggest that you start your own thread about central Java. No doubt you've seen a number of posts about central Java, both questions being asked for planning as well as trip reports. I don't know of anyone who has stayed at a villa in central Java, though staying in a villa is very common on Bali. There have been quite a number of posts about villas in Bali.

You will need air conditioning in both locations.

I've been looking at returning to central Java. The place I've investigated staying is the Losari Coffee Plantation www.losari.info