2d, So where did you decide to go?

Urban Asia is fascinating but I can't think of any city that has done a consistently good job of preserving the old. In the past ten years or so there's been a hightened awareness of architectural heritage, but too much damage had already been done. What few old landmarks that are still left in Seoul, Tokyo, Bangkok, Hong Kong, Singapore are now being lovingly restored but so many were demolished. Shanghai's architectural heritage is mostly gone and Beijing's is about to be.

Jakarta, where I live, is an interesting example (in a perverse sort of way) of old and new in conflict. The city is nearly 400 years old and still has many examples from the Dutch East Indies era, most of which are NOT lovingly restored.

You might enjoy looking at some of the drawings of this artist, Ken Pattern, a Canadian and longtime resident of Indonesia. He's fascinated by the juxtaposition of the shiny and modern and the traditional in a sort of topsy turvy urban malaise.

http://www.kenpattern.or.id/gallery.html

marmot is absolutely right. There's little or no thoughts being given to reflect the history/heritage of a place, or the integration of old and new at most cities in Asia. Which is very sad, indeed.

I'll tell you two places that I know best.

1. Hong Kong. Very few old colonial buildings have been preserved. [There are a few, like the recontructed Murray House, or Flagstaff House which is now the Teaware museum.] Otherwise, they are relentless in tearing down old stuff.

And it's not just tearing down stuff. But also building new things at places that they shouldn't. Like reclaiming land right at the heart of the Victoria Harbour, or building a mini-theme park NP360 at the most religious/sacred place in all of HK.

And if you look at all the beautiful and world-renowned buildings in the city, none of it has anything to do with the Chinese heritage. Everything's ultra modern and nothing else - including I. M. Pei's Bank of China. Unbelievable.

But things may have turned a corner this past two weeks. Lots of protesters showed up when they demolished the old Star Ferry pier in Central, which itself has little architecture significance. Instead, it signals the start of a conservation movement, which is a very very important and good thing.

2. Macau. This place has amazing Portugese and southern Europe architecture - it's forts, churches, and large houses. But most visitors won't even see them, as they're surrounded by ugly highrises and brand new casinos that look to Las Vegas for its inspiration. At least LV look at the real things - the Pyramid, Paris, New York - as its inspiration. But Macau is trying to copy the copy. Enough said...

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Anyways, from what I gather, Kuala Lumpur may be the Asian city that actually has some unique style, even in its newest buildings - like its airport, the Formula 1 track, and of course the Petronas Towers. At least to my eyes, these structures don't look like the others you'll find in Hong Kong, Shanghai, or New York.

I'm surprised no one has mentioned Hanoi as a city for heritage architecture. We loved Hanoi because of the charming old buildings and mix of asian and french colonial architecture. Sadly, I do not think the Vietnamese are progressing with a growth plan for Hanoi that will preserve and/or integrate the old buildings with new development. See Hanoi soon, before its too late.

Just curious, 2d, where are you going?

IF YOU'RE into new futuristic buildings, in has to be Putrajaya city - it's very new, you won't find it in guide books - in Malaysia. Designs with an Asian twist. Every inch of the city is wired with fibre optics; you can't sneeze without triggering some sensors somewhere. Of course, KLCC twin towers are a good must-do. Feel blood gushing to your feet while riding it's high speed elevator.

For traditional architecture, my vote goes to Bali. Pura Tanah Lot (perched on turbulent seaside) or Ulun Danu temples (fringing Beratan volcanic lake) are fine examples. Every part of the temple bears significant meaning. Gate pillars resemble a pagoda divided into halves; meaning harmony and balance to all visitor entering the temple.

Next comes Minangkabau and Batak tribal long houses in Lake Toba, Medan, Padang, Sumatra. These majestic stilt mansions are built entirely of teak wood; without a single nail. Fit form joints hold them together and wedges are packed into the joints to tighten the structure periodically. And the best part - they are designed to "sway" with tremors and quakes which happen quite often it that region (a big one just stuck Padang a few days back). Now, that's what i call great design.

Lastly, Thai countryside temples. The best ones, my opinion, are located in Narathiwat, Songkla, Yala and Pattani. The ones in northern Thai or Bangkok are too bland. Yes, southern Thailand is a dangerous place to go lately. These regions are poor but deeply religious. Architecturally, temples in the south are a fusion of Thai, Indian and Malay. By the way, southern Thailand is one of the last place where people still write and speak Sanskrit - one of the world's oldest language. Obviously, much of ancient temple building craftmanship is still alive. In fact, most of SE Asia was under the Srivijaya and Majaphahit hindu kingdom before the arrival of Buddhism and Islam. So, a glimpse of these buildings is like time travelling.

For those in love with quirky architecture, there a rural Taoist temple near my hometown Taiping, Malaysia, with roof made entirely of culinary chinaware .... spoons, cups, saucers, pots, bowls .. etc. Legend has it that 200 years ago, villagers were too poor to buy roofing tiles. So everyone chip in with stuffs from their kitchens to make the roof! Some adventurous backpackers have started to pay homage to the place and it would not be long before guide books catch up.

i would think:
Beijing-the forbidden city and hutong (sadly, quite a number of them were being demolished in the name of city development)

Malaysia-KL for the twin tower, smaller towns (Malacca, Penang) for the colonial building and temples! interestingly, e.g. you will find mixed of muslim mosques, chinese temples and indian temples all within Malacca town together with portugal & dutch influenced buildings. Long houses in East Malaysia are pretty amazing too...also dont missed out the local malay houses in those malay villages, those houses are normally above grounds and made by woods or woods+concrete

Siem Reap-should not miss it, interesting temples