Actually, in Asia you're often better off with a squat. Consider how much water and infrastructure are needed for western style toilets to work... Consider swaying trains... On trains I go for the squats, although I mostly stay in places with Western toilets. For my tips on how to use a squat, see www.wilhelmswords.com/faq.

thursdaysd, thanks.....I think! Sounds awful. But a necessity of life I guess.

I do remember seeing at the Casino on the Gold Coast her in Australia, instructions, c/w diagrams on how to use the toilets. This was some years ago and I couldn't imagine at the time why anyone from anywhere would need 'instructions'. One visit to Singapore and 'I got it'.

To be honest, I understand as per your detail description the need for squat toilets, but for the life of me I can't understand the 'filth'. Pile of paper in the corner etc. Theres gotta be a better/hygenic way. Or am I being niave?

aussiedreamer - From the pictures on seat61.com and elsewhere, if you get the new type of train sets with private bathroom, then the toilet is a sit down one.

If it's the old-fashioned trains without private toilets, then there is one toilet at each end of each car. One end is sit down, one end is squat.

ek - well, without getting too graphic, in a lot of Asia people use water rather than paper, so they're not set up to handle it.

I realize I sound like a capitalist devil, but do people ever buy both berths in a two-berth luxury sleeper?

I plan on taking train Beijing-Shanghai and am certain that my compartment mate will be a loud snorer.

I took the Z20 train from Xian to BJ last Dec. This is the nonstop high speed service between the two cities (ie Z19 is BJ to Xian). According to the glossy advertising brochure I got from the train, this train has Soft sleeper and deluxe soft sleeper cabins only (ie no hard sleeper or seats like other trains).

Ticket prices on the brochure were at that time: Soft sleeper = upper berth 400 RMB, and lower berth 417 RMB. Deluxe soft sleeper for upper berth 737 RMB and Lower berth 767 RMB. We bought Deluxe soft sleeper tickets so there was only us two in the cabin. These deluxe soft sleeper cabins are very luxurious by Chinese standards. I think it is the same size or just a bit bigger as a normal soft sleeper cabin, and as it only has 2 bunks instead of 4, there is also a soft comfy sitting chair and a private bathroom consisting of a western style sit down toilet and a washbasin (no shower though). There is also a small wardrobe and a shelf up the top, and even a safe under the bottom bunk. Also had the small LCD TV screens for each persons' bunk. The train was very new and clean looking inside and the toilet even had a paper cover over the seat saying it had been disinfected/sterilized. The bunks had a sheet, and we got a duvet and pillow. I think the soft sleepers are similar to the usual ones, but they are probably with the latest appointments, and very neat and clean, as this train is a new one that went into service post April 2004 (according to the brochure info). We got CITS to buy our tickets as didn't want to spend out time doing it ourselves, but for this you will be charged a service fee (I think we paid about 70 RMB -it seems a bit steep,but I think they put it up higher because we got them delivered to our hotel.

As the train is over night it does save some time and the cost of a hotel. Down side is that you can't see much of the scenery, which I would like to have seen, because it was dark for the whole journey-it left at 19:23 and got to BJ at 6:53(appr). However I went in winter so if it was summer you may be able to something for a little of the way.

As mentioned by others, the website seat61.com is good and has lot of info and some pictures of the trains in China. As we went in the offseason I don't think the train was full. I think the train probably gets busy in the summer and on season when a lot of tourists take it, but when we travelled there was only locals (I mean as in domestic Chinese travellers on it) and I didn't see other foreigners on it.

Thanks, abc. It is the fact that I am traveling alone and do not want to be up all night with a snorer that I was considering buying the two berths...it is pricey, though. Your description was good to read..very detailed and very reassuring; too bad about the scenery, though... I will be traveling in April so I may see a little bit...

eckscrunchy & afisher

Aloha from Beijing!

I am in Beijing right now and purchased tickets online through China Trip Advisor dot com. before we got here.

The prices quoted by abc88 are the prices I was charged plus a small service charge. They delivered our tickets today to our hotel(The Peninsula) just as ordered and I would highly recommend their service.

We leave Beijing on 3-24 so I will try and report about the train trip when time allows or in my trip report when we return after 4-12.

Tickets for the deluxe soft sleepers on the Z-19 train from BJ to Xian go on sale 20 days before departure so it would be nice but not mandatory to get the ticks before you arrive.

Don't worry about what people will think about you buying the two berths as it is done more times than you think and who cares what anyone else thinks. The only ones that would say anything about that are the small minded people that nobody cares really gives a hoot about anyway.

Enjoy your trip!

Aloha!

For those wondering about the Chinese trains, would suggest reading "Fried Eggs with Chopsticks" by Polly Evans. I bought it at one of the large bookstore chains. Entertaining reading. At first I thought it would be Bill Bryson-ish but she actually puts more historial and cultural information, too.

Just want to report that I did buy both berths for the Z13 sleeper Beijing-Shanghai and that the train trip was just great! HIghly recommended although you do not see much since it is dark outside. One tip: Eat dinner before the trip or bring some snacks as the dinner provided in your room is not so great..

I am still in Asia so will report more when I return home...I loved China!

ek - so glad to hear you're loving China - and that the train worked well for you. Looking forward to hearing all about your trip.