No reason to believe the tombs inside Potala Palace aren't gold. The ruling classes - the monasteries - gathered lots of wealth over the centuries.

Chinese armed force are all over Lhasa, including plenty of roof tops in old town. And they match around the Jokhang Circuit COUNTERCLOCKWISE many times a day. Carrying not only guns but also fire extinguishers as protests where Tibetans burn themselves to death isn't uncommon.

I don't believe Tibetans care much about very hot food at all. And keep in mind that fuel is scarce - yak dung was and still is their main fuel for cooking - and that water boils at around 90C in Lhasa. Basically they only cook food till it's cooked - not when it's tender. Pressured cookers are used in non-Tibetan restaurants, but Tibetans may not be using them much.

rkkwan,

I really appreciate you adding more insight to my postings. Again your explanation helps me and hopeful others better understand the things that I experienced. I hope you will stick around throughout my remaining postings.

I did see "firefighters" at a few of the monasteries but thankfully no fires.

I think even today the monasteries are still gathering lots of wealth which one can only hope is being put to good use :)

All very interesting iand valuable nformation. Waiting eagerly for more.

DMB---Reading with deep interest. Enjoyed your writing about the luke warm food at the restaurant. I like piping hot food!
Hope other restaurants were better.
I just realized you have been now traveling for more than a week! Almost time to come back home.
So remember to take more video to share and some more amazing photographs.
Hope by now your body has adjusted to the high altitude.
Maybe the wealth gathered is used for maintenance of the monasteries and its surroundings as well as the monks.In addition, maybe some funds are used to help the poor in the society.
It is truly amazing to note that people all over the world donate so generously to religious places. We know of temples in India that have tons of wealth, and we know of the Vatican and so many churches in the US also.
It would take some research to find out who donates so much and who is really benefiting from the huge funds.
Well, have a great day, enjoy the scenery, the mountains and some more hiking.
Where would you be heading next? I think you mentioned you will be flying? So have a safe and pleasant journey and do share more as so many of us are waiting to read more.

this all sounds incredible!
I was wondering if you had any problems with the visa this time round...and what are the current situations on getting them. can i just join a group and i'll be able to get in? or do I need 4 other people of my nationality to get in? How is hte general visa situation for tibet?

Jokhang Temple

Another pass through security and we pay an entrance fee to enter Jokhang Temple. Jokhang is Tibet's first Buddhist Temple and is a little less challenging to visit than Polata Palace although it does have its share of steep stairs.

Jokhang is a simple temple that I find more enjoyable to visit than Polata Palace as it does not seem as touristy. For a few moments I can sit and enjoy it along with an upper level garden that is decorated with brightly colored flowers.

Like at Polata Palace there are restrictions to taking pictures of the things I find interesting to look at and would like to share. A shame.

For me, it is disappointing to see the Chinese flag prominently flying over this temple that is the ultimate destination for Tibetan pilgrims.

As I leave Jokhang I do witness some Tibetans offering prayers and it is a bit of comfort that at least they still have the freedom to practice their faith.


Video:http://youtu.be/RqKWTDf51bU

ileen,

Made it back home and do have a lot more to share. Now it is about finding the time to put it all together, Spent 3 nights in Lhasa and I have only posted about my first day touring there :(

I have a suspicion that some of the money donated at the monasteries here end up in the hands of the government.

Food did get better a time or two during the trip which I hope to share about in later postings.

From Lhasa it's a few days to Mt. Everest base camp then Nepal to fly home from Kathmandu.

angitravel,

No problems with visa this time around although it seemed to take a long time for the travel agency to get the Tibet and EBC permit. The itinerary changed a few times as they were not sure we would be able to get an EBC permit.

Interestingly, this time there was not a requirement to have at least 5 people from the same nationality in the group to get a Tibet permit.

The Tibet permit situation is always changing which requires some flexibility. Our group had 3 Americans and 2 Brits. I heard that even single permits were being issued while we were there.

There are some agencies that put groups together so it is possible that you can get in a group at anytime with mixed nationals. Our group of 5 actually came from two different travel agencies and on our Polata Palace tour we were joined by an individual from another company.

Your best bet is to get in contact with an agency and let them fill you in on the latest info. Unfortunately, I am not to keen to recommend the agency that I used :(

DMBTraveler, thank you for the trip report. My husband and I are planning on traveling to Tibet in early November along with a couple of friends. This whole thread comes in handy in terms of planning. I was wondering about Lhasa. We're staying in the Tibetan part of town at the Kyichu Hotel and I'm hoping that part of town isn't entirely tourist trap crap. Please tell me there is some authenticity left. Or, are there areas within the Tibetan part that are more interesting or authentic than others?

Also, about food. I've read somewhere that the Chinese restaurants in the Chinese part of town are by far the best in the city. Did you try any?

The Kyichu is on the same main road as the Yak Hotel - Beijing Road East. The Kyichu is closer to the Potala and just off the old town. Like the OP said, you'll find all the name brand stores on Beijing Road East.

Make no mistake - who go to Lhasa anyways? Mostly Han Chinese from other provinces - whether they're there for business or travel or try to make a buck somehow. If you want to see Tibetan people running Tibetan stores, you just have to go into the old town, not just doing the Jokhang Circuit where all the stalls cater to tourists and other visitors (whether they're foreign ones, other Han Chinese, or Tibetan pilgrims from outside Lhasa), but wander into the many other alleyways in the old town.

But I am not saying don't do the Jokhang Circuit, or don't look at the stalls. Because you have to, and they ARE indeed interesting to most. What you wouldn't care is the name brand shops on Beijing Road East.

thank you so much for answering! and for sharing your amazing trip!! :)

jahlie,

I think "rkkwan" answered your questions better than I could. I would say I was disappointed to see all the modern development :(

Seems like the true part of Tibet that I went to experience was hidden or off limits.

angitravel,

You are welcomed :)

More sharing to do but may take a while to complete this trip report.

Good to know your trip has been completed safely and you are back home to rest and to contemplate.
Will wait for more trip report whenever you write it.
Have a great long weekend.

DMBtraveler - while we enjoyed our trip to china earlier this year, we were also keenly disappointed in how modern china had become. I was hoping to hear more enthusiasm from you, but may now take Tibet off the list of must travel to destinations. I'm looking forward to your opinion on Nepal. Most curiously, is it a worthwhile destination for one that will so only minimal hiking.

The Streets Of Lhasa

On our way to Jokhang Temple we see a bit of the city that looks interesting to explore on our own after we are done with lunch and temple touring.

I am not particularly a shopper or souvenir collector but I find watching people going about their normal daily routine interesting.

There is a lot of construction going on around the city and it seems no street is safe from it. There is still a lot of manual labor involved in the process as I watch groups of men unspool large cables and women manually mix batches of concrete.

Shops with all kinds of merchandise line the streets some with a mix of pool tables that I understand are used for gambling. I do not know if I am just still photo timid from being touring earlier in the day but as much as I want to I feel awkward about breaking out my camera. Most locals on the streets seem so reserve that I think it would be inappropriate to be seen clicking away.

I do come across one guy that does not seem too shy to have his picture taken. However, its a face many are familiar with but I am surprise to see him here. It's Shaquille O'Neal hawking NBA Beer.

My adventure gets me somewhat lost but gives me the opportunity to try sometime new in the city. A little bargaining and I am taking a local taxi back to my hotel for about a US$1. This is another fun way to see the city, bells and all.

Video:http://youtu.be/2XC4MfUvbHI

dgunbug,

Only went from border to airport in Nepal although my impression is that it would be a much better place to enjoy than Tibet.

Where did you go in China? Our visas expire in July so we are thinking about another trip probably Xian or Shanghai.

DMBtraveler - how disappointing - all that way and no time ti experience nepal! if you click on my name you can bring up my trip report on china. Our itinerary was Beijing, Datong , pingyao, xi'an, langyao, nanjing, hangzhou, Suzhou, and shanghai.

dgunbug,

Thanks, will check out your TR and may have questions :)

This trip to Tibet was sort of last minute since it was my third attempt and I could not get enough time off from work to spend time in Nepal :(

Thank you rkkwan and DMBTraveler for addressing that little bit of anxiety I had about a possible tourist ghetto in the TIbetan part of Lhasa. It sounds like I'll be in for a lot of surprises and from your film DMBTraveler, a lively street scene. I'm going to post our proposed itinerary on a separate thread to get feedback and advice, but for now, thanks so much.