No reason to believe the tombs inside Potala Palace aren't gold. The ruling classes - the monasteries - gathered lots of wealth over the centuries.

Chinese armed force are all over Lhasa, including plenty of roof tops in old town. And they match around the Jokhang Circuit COUNTERCLOCKWISE many times a day. Carrying not only guns but also fire extinguishers as protests where Tibetans burn themselves to death isn't uncommon.

I don't believe Tibetans care much about very hot food at all. And keep in mind that fuel is scarce - yak dung was and still is their main fuel for cooking - and that water boils at around 90C in Lhasa. Basically they only cook food till it's cooked - not when it's tender. Pressured cookers are used in non-Tibetan restaurants, but Tibetans may not be using them much.

rkkwan,

I really appreciate you adding more insight to my postings. Again your explanation helps me and hopeful others better understand the things that I experienced. I hope you will stick around throughout my remaining postings.

I did see "firefighters" at a few of the monasteries but thankfully no fires.

I think even today the monasteries are still gathering lots of wealth which one can only hope is being put to good use :)

All very interesting iand valuable nformation. Waiting eagerly for more.

DMB---Reading with deep interest. Enjoyed your writing about the luke warm food at the restaurant. I like piping hot food!
Hope other restaurants were better.
I just realized you have been now traveling for more than a week! Almost time to come back home.
So remember to take more video to share and some more amazing photographs.
Hope by now your body has adjusted to the high altitude.
Maybe the wealth gathered is used for maintenance of the monasteries and its surroundings as well as the monks.In addition, maybe some funds are used to help the poor in the society.
It is truly amazing to note that people all over the world donate so generously to religious places. We know of temples in India that have tons of wealth, and we know of the Vatican and so many churches in the US also.
It would take some research to find out who donates so much and who is really benefiting from the huge funds.
Well, have a great day, enjoy the scenery, the mountains and some more hiking.
Where would you be heading next? I think you mentioned you will be flying? So have a safe and pleasant journey and do share more as so many of us are waiting to read more.

this all sounds incredible!
I was wondering if you had any problems with the visa this time round...and what are the current situations on getting them. can i just join a group and i'll be able to get in? or do I need 4 other people of my nationality to get in? How is hte general visa situation for tibet?

Jokhang Temple

Another pass through security and we pay an entrance fee to enter Jokhang Temple. Jokhang is Tibet's first Buddhist Temple and is a little less challenging to visit than Polata Palace although it does have its share of steep stairs.

Jokhang is a simple temple that I find more enjoyable to visit than Polata Palace as it does not seem as touristy. For a few moments I can sit and enjoy it along with an upper level garden that is decorated with brightly colored flowers.

Like at Polata Palace there are restrictions to taking pictures of the things I find interesting to look at and would like to share. A shame.

For me, it is disappointing to see the Chinese flag prominently flying over this temple that is the ultimate destination for Tibetan pilgrims.

As I leave Jokhang I do witness some Tibetans offering prayers and it is a bit of comfort that at least they still have the freedom to practice their faith.


Video:http://youtu.be/RqKWTDf51bU

ileen,

Made it back home and do have a lot more to share. Now it is about finding the time to put it all together, Spent 3 nights in Lhasa and I have only posted about my first day touring there :(

I have a suspicion that some of the money donated at the monasteries here end up in the hands of the government.

Food did get better a time or two during the trip which I hope to share about in later postings.

From Lhasa it's a few days to Mt. Everest base camp then Nepal to fly home from Kathmandu.

angitravel,

No problems with visa this time around although it seemed to take a long time for the travel agency to get the Tibet and EBC permit. The itinerary changed a few times as they were not sure we would be able to get an EBC permit.

Interestingly, this time there was not a requirement to have at least 5 people from the same nationality in the group to get a Tibet permit.

The Tibet permit situation is always changing which requires some flexibility. Our group had 3 Americans and 2 Brits. I heard that even single permits were being issued while we were there.

There are some agencies that put groups together so it is possible that you can get in a group at anytime with mixed nationals. Our group of 5 actually came from two different travel agencies and on our Polata Palace tour we were joined by an individual from another company.

Your best bet is to get in contact with an agency and let them fill you in on the latest info. Unfortunately, I am not to keen to recommend the agency that I used :(

DMBTraveler, thank you for the trip report. My husband and I are planning on traveling to Tibet in early November along with a couple of friends. This whole thread comes in handy in terms of planning. I was wondering about Lhasa. We're staying in the Tibetan part of town at the Kyichu Hotel and I'm hoping that part of town isn't entirely tourist trap crap. Please tell me there is some authenticity left. Or, are there areas within the Tibetan part that are more interesting or authentic than others?

Also, about food. I've read somewhere that the Chinese restaurants in the Chinese part of town are by far the best in the city. Did you try any?

The Kyichu is on the same main road as the Yak Hotel - Beijing Road East. The Kyichu is closer to the Potala and just off the old town. Like the OP said, you'll find all the name brand stores on Beijing Road East.

Make no mistake - who go to Lhasa anyways? Mostly Han Chinese from other provinces - whether they're there for business or travel or try to make a buck somehow. If you want to see Tibetan people running Tibetan stores, you just have to go into the old town, not just doing the Jokhang Circuit where all the stalls cater to tourists and other visitors (whether they're foreign ones, other Han Chinese, or Tibetan pilgrims from outside Lhasa), but wander into the many other alleyways in the old town.

But I am not saying don't do the Jokhang Circuit, or don't look at the stalls. Because you have to, and they ARE indeed interesting to most. What you wouldn't care is the name brand shops on Beijing Road East.

thank you so much for answering! and for sharing your amazing trip!! :)

jahlie,

I think "rkkwan" answered your questions better than I could. I would say I was disappointed to see all the modern development :(

Seems like the true part of Tibet that I went to experience was hidden or off limits.

angitravel,

You are welcomed :)

More sharing to do but may take a while to complete this trip report.

Good to know your trip has been completed safely and you are back home to rest and to contemplate.
Will wait for more trip report whenever you write it.
Have a great long weekend.

DMBtraveler - while we enjoyed our trip to china earlier this year, we were also keenly disappointed in how modern china had become. I was hoping to hear more enthusiasm from you, but may now take Tibet off the list of must travel to destinations. I'm looking forward to your opinion on Nepal. Most curiously, is it a worthwhile destination for one that will so only minimal hiking.

The Streets Of Lhasa

On our way to Jokhang Temple we see a bit of the city that looks interesting to explore on our own after we are done with lunch and temple touring.

I am not particularly a shopper or souvenir collector but I find watching people going about their normal daily routine interesting.

There is a lot of construction going on around the city and it seems no street is safe from it. There is still a lot of manual labor involved in the process as I watch groups of men unspool large cables and women manually mix batches of concrete.

Shops with all kinds of merchandise line the streets some with a mix of pool tables that I understand are used for gambling. I do not know if I am just still photo timid from being touring earlier in the day but as much as I want to I feel awkward about breaking out my camera. Most locals on the streets seem so reserve that I think it would be inappropriate to be seen clicking away.

I do come across one guy that does not seem too shy to have his picture taken. However, its a face many are familiar with but I am surprise to see him here. It's Shaquille O'Neal hawking NBA Beer.

My adventure gets me somewhat lost but gives me the opportunity to try sometime new in the city. A little bargaining and I am taking a local taxi back to my hotel for about a US$1. This is another fun way to see the city, bells and all.

Video:http://youtu.be/2XC4MfUvbHI

dgunbug,

Only went from border to airport in Nepal although my impression is that it would be a much better place to enjoy than Tibet.

Where did you go in China? Our visas expire in July so we are thinking about another trip probably Xian or Shanghai.

DMBtraveler - how disappointing - all that way and no time ti experience nepal! if you click on my name you can bring up my trip report on china. Our itinerary was Beijing, Datong , pingyao, xi'an, langyao, nanjing, hangzhou, Suzhou, and shanghai.

dgunbug,

Thanks, will check out your TR and may have questions :)

This trip to Tibet was sort of last minute since it was my third attempt and I could not get enough time off from work to spend time in Nepal :(

Thank you rkkwan and DMBTraveler for addressing that little bit of anxiety I had about a possible tourist ghetto in the TIbetan part of Lhasa. It sounds like I'll be in for a lot of surprises and from your film DMBTraveler, a lively street scene. I'm going to post our proposed itinerary on a separate thread to get feedback and advice, but for now, thanks so much.

Drepung Monastery

Our day begins as usual but this time I skip breakfast and spend the extra time sleeping in. Around 10am we set off to tour a few more of the important monasteries in Tibet. About a twenty minute drive out of town and we pay another admission fee then clear another security checkpoint which is a little different.

Our destination is located on a hillside and the checkpoint is at the bottom of the hill. Loaded up back in our mini-van we continue our drive up a steep road that is littered with trash on both sides.

Arriving at Dreprung Monastery which is the biggest Tibetan Buddhism College there is another military official who gives us a watchful eye then nods an approval. Navigating some construction area we start our now traditional “Monastery Stairmaster Workout”.

We are greeted by smoke and money changers as we begin our climb then drawn to the voice of a small child singing. What is disappointing is to see a pool where monks once took baths almost covered in trash.

Along the path to the monastery are prayer wheels, a few of them unique because they are kept spinning with running water from the surrounding mountains. Looking skyward it is a gorgeous day as we take in the hillsides covered with prayer flags and important monuments.

Inside Dreprung we are allowed to take pictures but for a reasonable fee of RMB$15, about US$3. I find the yak butter candles interesting as I watch people feed them with offerings.

It is also very cool to see the stacks and stacks of ancient Tibetan scriptures that line part of the monastery walls. Near the scriptures there are also brass bowls of water that are used as a part of a Buddhist ceremony.

Along another wall a set of stern and discerning eyes are watching us but what I find interesting is another set of eyes that I am familiar with. From behind a glass case “Old George Washington” is looking back at me. I guess here any currency is acceptable for an offering.

Leaving Dreprung, the former winter residence of the Dali Lama, I get a glimpse of some real old fashioned manual labor. I stand and watch as men carry huge rocks on their backs to a construction site down the hill. I sure hope they have some Aleve or at least get a good back massage at the end of the day.

I don't know if you have to be Buddhist for it to work but I come across a stupa and circle it, I think in the right direction. Now I will just have to wait for my good luck, health and fortune to kick in.


Video:http://youtu.be/6jT2kmrAACg

Lovely filming. I can't wait for the next installment.

Very interesting video. Waiting for more.
Thanks

No Naan For You

I am excited as we leave Dreprung Monastery as this afternoon we are going to one of the more popular restaurants in Lhasa for lunch.

As we drive across town, I am still amazed how beautiful the weather is although the air is still dry and in some areas dusty. Kathy's tip with Chapstick has really helped with my dry nose situation.

Dropped off on a main street we navigate through alleys filled with construction and make our way to Lhasa Namaste highly rate because of its famous naan bread. It is the main reason we asked our tour guide to bring us here.

It is a Sunday afternoon and Lhasa Namaste is a little busy as we grab a table on its very cozy outdoor patio dining area. There seems to be a bit of confusion to the wait staff why we are here as we do not get what I consider the traditional restaurant welcome.

With the help of our guide we eventually get menus which have a very nice selection of main dishes which all offer the choice of rice or naan.

Drinks and food are ordered but with one big disappointment, today there is no naan bread. After attempting to get an explanation of how a restaurant known for its naan bread has none of it even though it is offered on the menu, we are left to figure it out on our own with no apologies.

Our food arrives and it is served with Western utensils. Our waitress seems taken back when we ask for chopsticks which takes her about 10 minutes to bring to us. I hope she now realizes that there are some non Asians that know how to eat with chopsticks.

All of our food is very good although Kathy's “Cashew Chicken” looks a little different than expected. Craig and Marciso salads are fresh and they say better than the ones they had at our last lunch stop restaurant although a bit more expensive.

Bill has no complaints about his “Pizza Margherita” which he offers to share with the rest of us. My “Mutton Bhuna Goast Set” is a good size portion and is deliciously full of flavor. I have no problem finishing my meal although some garlic naan sure would have been nice.


Video:http://youtu.be/bu6_BWPJY8U

Thanks DMB, really enjoying your trip reports.

You walk clockwise around Stupas, Mani walls etc.

Think I did it the right way.

Thanks, Bokhara2 :)

Sera Monastery

After lunch, we are back on the road to a monastery that I am looking forward to visiting.

Arriving at Sera monastery I am already impressed as I learn about a mustard colored building standing alone on a nearby mountainside.

I am told the building I am looking at is a mediation place for monks who sometimes spend months there after what seems like a very difficult climb to get there.

Inside Sera monastery is a little different than the other monasteries we have visited so far. We are told it is primarily a teaching facility although since it is a Sunday afternoon we do not get we witness any of the teaching or debates I was looking forward to.

What is the same here is the restrictions on picture taking with all the cool stuff being stored in my brain which I am sure sooner or later will begin to crash like my Vic-20 floppy drive.

Outside, Craig points out something interesting that I have never noticed before. There are government firefighters sitting around. They are necessary because things around monasteries and monks have been known to go up in flames, unexpectedly.

Leaving Sera monastery disappointed, I do spot something I still find interesting here. Repairs are being done to an entrance area and most of the tough manual labor is being performed by women including mixing cement.


Video:http://youtu.be/NPXn_0aBlsg

The debate at Sera is one if the more interesting things in Lhasa. The tour should have rearranged the itinerary to bring you there on another day.

Not sure if you mentioned it, but did you get a Han Chinese or a Tibetan guide?

rkkwan,

Had a Tibetan guide who I thought was not a good guide at all. He claims to have been doing this for two years but was unaware that there were no debates on Sundays :(

Leaving Lhasa

I am excited as I check out of The “noisy” Yak Hotel as I am looking forward to seeing more of Tibet. Today, our journey involves about 6-7 hours of driving that will have us spending the night in Shigaste.

As I get comfortable in the back seat of our mini-van it is interesting to see a few items added on board. We now have “oxygen pillows” which hopefully none of us will be needing anytime soon.

Just outside of Lhasa we make a brief stop at what will become just one of many checkpoints.

Looking out my window I am amazed at the stunning scenery and beautiful weather. Clear blue skies contrast nicely with a landscape that in some areas seem so arid and in others so lush. To me, the surrounding forbidden mountains are amazing.

Soon we are climbing a mountain pass that to me is an “E-Ticket” ride but has some of my fellow travel companions a bit nervous. At some points only small barriers of what we hope is solid concrete separates us from a certain death plunge.

Even as others are nervous at times, I do appreciate our drivers skills as he passes large trucks on the curving and blind spot road. We did have one or two close calls all of which were skilfully handled like I think I would have done so myself.

At one point we make a stop to look back and take in the landscape where we have just defied death a time or two. A bit out of breath I climb a small hill and peer down a vast valley below. The views are magnificent as I stand near prayer flags whipping in the wind.

Some of these prayer flags have writing on them and if I were to take a guess I imagine a few of them say “Thank you for helping us make it this far, whew!”


Video:http://youtu.be/Zt-X_yyIJXk

Another nice video DMVTraveler and I'm sorry to hear about your guide. What was the name of the travel agency you hired? We've decided on Road to Tibet, which gets good reviews online and our email exchanges have been courteous. I'm looking forward to the rest of your videos, especially Nepal - one of my favorite places on earth!

Yamdrok Lake To Shigaste

One of the interesting stops on the way to Shigaste is at Yamdrok Lake, the third largest lake in Tibet. This is definitely a tourist stop but the views and scenery are still worthwhile. For a few bucks you can have your picture taken on a yak or next to a Tibetan Mastiff.

We all refused to shell out the yuans for the photo opportunity as I think we were all worn out from the constant pay for a picture routine.

Back on the road what amazes me is seeing homes where yak dung is used for decorations as well as for building walls and steps.

Soon we leave the paved road and we are on an E-ticket ride for what I think is a shortcut. However, it turns out to lead to another sort of checkpoint out in the middle of nowhere. This time it cost us about RMB40 per person to continue, an admission fee of sorts for the area we are about to enter.

Again, the scenery although barren is awesome with multiple layers of mountains, some brown and void of vegetation, others covered with bright white glistening snow. One of the mountains is so beautiful that at a scenic spot we are told it is RMB50 to take a picture.

Fortunately after we all refused to pay our driver takes us to a spot where we could capture pictures for free.

In Gyanste, from the highway we get a glimpse of the largest stupa in Tibet, Kumpa Stupa. Although a close up visit to this and Pelchor Monastery which is nearby is on our itinerary, we are all so exhauted from being on the road so long that we just want to get to our hotel in Shigaste.

Our 6-7 hour planned drive is turning into 11-12 hours on the road. Part of the reason for this is our official time control between various checkpoints. Numerous times we pull to the side of the road and wait for 10 to 40 minutes because we are ahead of schedule to be at the next checkpoint. These stops turn out to be bathroom breaks for us along open and almost desolate highways with everyone claiming a different portion of the landscape.

Soon we are crossing active farmlands where yaks or other farm animals are hard at work toiling the land. Farming done the old fashioned way.

Approaching a small community we pass an interesting caravan of sorts. A group of men seem to be returning home, all riding horse drawn carts with lots of bells ringing.


Video:http://youtu.be/uRbjefIrb50

Yak dung is the main domestic fuel for Tibetan families, for cooking and heat. They are stuck on the exterior walls to be dried before use.

DMVTraveler, do you have more? I love your short films and descriptions - it's all prep for my upcoming trip!

jahlie,

Yes, but have been short on time. Will get back to posting more soon.

Finally A Good Night Sleep

After a longer than expected time on the road, we finally arrive at a hotel were I could get a nice hot shower and a quiet night sleep.

Our next day starts off as normal with a plan to meet for breakfast around 8:30am. Although our stay is at a “4 Star”, I am not thrilled with the breakfast except for the fresh fruits (which quickly run out) but something else impresses me.

All packed and ready to hit the road, we are met by a hotel staff member and individually presented with a “Khadah”. This is a ceremonial silk scarf used to welcome or bid farewell to travelers.

For me, this is a lot more meaningful and done with more thought than the ones we were casually given when we first arrived at the Lhasa train station. Maybe, this is a sign that the trip for me will turn the corner and become more of what I was expecting it to be.


Video:http://youtu.be/-1cGwcsM1Dw

Nice touch. I'm reminded of how welcoming and warm the Nepali people were when we visited Nepal.

So, tell me please - which hotel did you stay at in Shigatse?

jahlie,

I think it was the Shigatse Hotel but I am not sure. I do remember driving into a courtyard entrance with the hotel lobby at the back of the building.

Hotel was nice and popular with a lot of other tour companies and had a restaurant on property.

I was exhausted getting there and was a bit too tired to pay much attention to details except a comfortable bed :(

Tashilumpo Monastery

Our day starts out as usual but with one exception. After having breakfast we leave the hotel without our tour guide.

A short drive and we are dropped off at Tashilumpo Monastery with about an hour to tour around on our own. We are told our tour guide has gone off to get our permits to visit Mt Everest.

After paying the now common entrance fee and going through security, we begin a steady climb into the courtyard area of Tashilumpo which was built in 1447.

Tashilumpo Monastery is the seat of the Panchen Lamas, the lineage of religious officials next to the Dalai Lama. Interestingly, the current Panchen Lama is a twenty something year old appointed by the Chinese.

Located at about 12,000 feet, some of the walking around is a bit of a challenge especially having to climb an occasional steep set of stairs. However, in my opinion this becomes the best monastery that we have visited, so far.

Two things I find amazing here. One, walking into a large open room and seeing a group of monks sitting on a table counting and stacking piles and piles of yuans.

Secondly, seeing about a 90 foot tall Buddha statue that I am told is made from about 600 pounds of gold. To take a photography of this statue is officially about US$50, I sneak one for free. Feeling a bit guilty, I make a donation to the chanting monks nearby.

Bill and I become exhausted from the walking around and wait in a courtyard area as the rest of our group sets off for more exploration. Being on our own we have such a good time exploring that we exceed our anointed one hour time.

For a change our driver and tour guide are waiting for us instead of us waiting for them to move on. A few fruit and snacks from the street vendors at the entrance of the monastery and we are again ready to hit the road.


Video:http://youtu.be/t2v6ny9ucNQ